To be fair "The best line at The Gallery" doesn't say very much!!!
It is a proper line though (I've just posted a pic in the news item which gives a foreshortened impression of it).
I went back the other night (see pic of Nick in V12 gallery) and did the '3 star' F6c in the middle of the crag. This is okay, but the wandering nature of the 'climb anywhere' line and loose rock would get it only 1 star on any other crag.
Strange place - Streaky loves it (but then he also really likes Craig Ddu and Hylldrem). I just find myself climbing in a permananent state of grip, worried about the consequences of a fall.
That said, on a previous visit I did enjoy the big F6b next to the aforementioned f6c, and the two routes at the far left (a F6b+ and a F6c+) are very good. And some of the steeper F7s look worthwhile.
