[GCW]

My only advice is to be careful when heeding advice gleaned from climbing forums

I think that's the best advice you've been given.

[douglas]

Did a quick search on the forum (for bicep) but nothing seemed to match my symptoms.
Ta.

You have probably strained the brachioradialis - its a common climbing injury.

Sorry, haven't got anything to contribute apart from...
a) it won't be brachioradialis (it's on the outside of the arm)
b) brachioradialis strain isn't a common climbing injury

My only advice is to be careful when heeding advice gleaned from climbing forums

I expect shark means brachialis? I have brachialis issues, and so does a friend. It feels like the bicep tendon but lies deeper in towards the elbow. Unless you're pulling on loads of undercuts I expect it's the brachialis muscle. That does most of the locking off and if you have a static cimbing style you are likely to be straining it.

[yorkshireman]

this is pretty much the same as i have and ive been told its the bicep tendon.mine doesnt cost me and strength and doesnt usually hurt while im actually cranking its more afterwards or if i release from a hold quickly.it actually hurts most when im washing myself in the bath .never hurts when campus boarding which is strange.had the same injury on the other arm and after 2 shiatsu sessions its never hurt since so need to get back to see the shiatsu guy

[gremlin]

Thanks for the advice everyone. Thought I would post an update.

I've cut down the climbing to once a week and started going to the gym 2 - 3 times a week and as well as running, doing oppositional stuff, triceps dips, dumbell presses, shoulder presses and eccentric bicep curls with a low weight...then icing when I get home.

I also bought a book on stretching and have found it useful for stretching my arms and shoulders (the exercises in it, not the book itself).

There seems to have been a small improvement but not as much as I would have hoped for - it's taking a long time to get better! I guess some progress is better than none though.

At least the nights a drawing in now, so I'm not tempted to climb lots of crimpy stuff outdoors which seems to really aggravate things. :-)

[yorkshireman]

i found cutting out any steep downclimbing helped