[shark]

Goal: Oak. 10,000 8a nu points
Weight: 11.3

M.Cornice. Humid conditions. Climbed well but was too greasy
T. Eve Foundry with boys. Bouldering Wave and board
W.
T.Eve. Cornice. Perfect Conditions. Got K3 first redpoint.  Did Cordless with one fall.
F.Eve Foundry with kids. Lacklustre bouldering on Wave
S.PM Family and friends trip to Stanage Popular . Did some soloing. Eve 
S.Turkey Dip. Did Animal Antics, Rob did Step On It. Then went to LPQ. Sweaty - dogged up The Squealer - lost most of my skin dogging the crux. Had another go on top rope. Did Supercrack. Left tired.

[Dr T]

STG – no change – get back up to strength, drop as much weight as can be done healthily
MTG – a couple of nice low 7’s in the next few weeks on what will be non-climbing trips to places with a little bit of rock
LTG – same as before – a reasonable haul of 7’s in two trips to font between Xmas and Easter
Mon – ran just under 8k with a mate who runs a lot more than me at a pace that destroyed me
Tues - 1 and a bit hours on the 45 deg board in the shed – should have got my arse in gear and gone out early in the morning as it was went out mid afternoon in 30+ deg temps and high humidity – amateur hour, had to over grip on pretty much every problem. Stuff that is fine in the winter took every drop of energy.
Wed – rest day – help my old man pack up his work shop so spent the day manhandling lathes, milling machines etc...
Thurs – 2 hour session at Craggy Sutton inc 20 minutes campus training – some real successes inc a nice 7a+ v. quickly (3 or 4 goes) butbut did get shut down a bit by the steepness and height of the wall – i.e. core and stamina.
Fri – 10k run – slightly calmer pace than Mon’
Sat – Rest day (went to the Emirates to watch the Arsenal  )
Sun – mostly gardening and DIY but with a longish Beastmaker session with doing repeaters with and without the 10kg belt on different grips with different finger sets. Felt reasonably strong but still not as much stamina as I would ultimately like.
Weight 76.9kg (down 0.2 from last week)

[andybfreeman]

STG - 7B, on sight 7a, 7c
MTG - 7B in the forest, climb Just Revenge and The Cider Soak
LTG - climb 8a regularly, 7C

M - no skin but plenty of energy after my weekend in the Peak. Weights, bar work including core, pressups etc.
T - Short circuits session @ TCA. Felt great, the fitness that I thought I would gain from my Spain trip seemed to be there at last. Cruised round the 7a+ crimp fest that had previously spat me off, exhausted on the penultimate move. Made great progress of the blue 7b and orange 7b+ both of which had felt nails last week.
W - Skin felt pretty trashed again so weighted pull ups and deadhangs + a bit of core at home.
Th - solid power session on Mark's 45 degree board. Felt as strong as I have done since leaving for Spain.
F - rest
Sa - After getting stuck in holiday traffic the planned day became a tide restricted afternoon at Hartland Quay. Mileage  up to 7A at the trench + some time working Carnage. Close to getting a STG done but after working it from standing the tide started coming in so I had to leave the sit (one knacky move to where i did the stand from) for another day.
Su - soloing at Berry Head. my first experience of DWS and it was an amazing day. Flashed Cod Tympani 7a+ (felt easy for the grade but it suited me down to the ground!), fell off the end of the crux of Rainbow Bridge traverse. It felt like a really good mileage day in terms of moves done and ground covered so was good training as well as good fun.

Weight down to high 66s/low 67s with no real focus on dieting this week.

I feel like I need to keep training PE and try and get some more time in my harness over the next couple of weeks. Work makes midweek climbing impossible but circuits seem to be quite effective. I feel fitter and at least as strong as I was when i last tried CS so it feels like another trip down to Anstey's soon would be worthwhile if we can get some decent cool conditions (I know it sounds, and probably is, illogical trying to achieve MTGs before i manage either STG but it feels like opportunities rather than lack of progress are the reasons that i haven't done them yet!)

[Nibile]

mon - gym, full session. a bit tired and sore from the surfing but good power on the back exercises. did one armed lat machine as last week (one move with 5 kg improvements); then one armers.
tue - beastmaker. just did some max one armed hangs, then some campusing sequences like 35°-small crimp-match-35°-match until failure.
wed - rest.
thu - rest. wanted to train but was totally empty.
fri - rest.
sat - bouldering!!! good power, a few problems went down! poor skin but not too poor.
sun - beastmaker. 10x6. had to skip the pockets due to skin issues, so repeated the 35° and doubled the small rung. a total of 166 pull ups and the rest deadhangs. tired now.

comments.
good good vibes from saturday's bouldering. despite not feeling strong, I seem to be able to get on top of something sometimes. want to get strong.
keep the faith.

[Doylo]

Nice job on K3, Shark!

STG: Improve Strength/PE
MTG: Diamond Proj
LTG: Be stronger/fitter next year (8b+/c)

M - Deadhangs. Mill - weak, circuit scene.
T - Working in the big smoke.  Shit!
W - Work. Sweaty, sleeping in a hostel with hot italian chicks, hardship.
T - Work
F- Drive home after work. Deadhangs.
S - Deadhangs. Mill. Did long circuit again first go.  Very weak on the problems.
S - Mill. felt bit stronger, managed 7a ok but still no cigar on usual base level (7a+s). Got a pump, bit shit on circuits today. Set a hard circuit for the bumpy boys to play on, probable 8a/+ ish.

Training took a bit of a back seat this week because of the necessity to earn money.  Need to get on rock this week to test things out. Its been too long! Getting slightly concerned about persistent weakness but hopefully will be on the up soon.

[Three Nine]

Goals as last week.

M rest, cardio 30 mins run
T Brean, hate this crag. Two 7b+ (neither onsight), lost skin
W Tried a redpoint at Cheddar, but skin and the sun stopped play
T power 45, got left behind. not very strong atm.
F rest, cardio 30 mins run
S bit of bouldering at Hartland up to 7A
S ace day pottering at Berry Head

[Monolith]

STG's: Get back moving after months of bare activity. Lots of route volume to induce muscles. Do Mudjakeewis.
MTG's: Get boulder project done in Sep/Oct when cooler temps.
LTGS: Boulder-wise some quality 8a's in Chironico and a tick of something hard and classic would be nice on the end of a rope.

Mon - Rested. Fish and chips (good quality) for lunch. Burger for dinner. Allowable naughty day.
Tues - DOMS from sunday so rested.
Weds - Went to Llandullas. Got back on Mudjakeewis, felt a path until got pumped on clip before easy end.
Thurs - Rested. Finally a job interview forthcoming. Felt cheerful
Fri - Went on fingerboard for a quick blast of pulls and deadhangs.
Sat - Went out with Donnelly for beers. Had nice time in new bar. Stayed up late listening to good music. Lovely.
Sun - Went to Llandullas for a quick 1.5 hr session. Got on Mudjakeewis as the warmup and walked up it to flattys. Surprised I did this and came down to do more moves to get warm. Got up to sidepull and clipped without feeling pumped. New micro highpoint so quite pleased.


A successive week of training and climbing. Happy to be ticking over and slowly recultivating some musculature. Pleased on the back of evening session today to know that I just need to sort the sidepull move out and Mudjakeewis is in the bag. This takes me from sport climbing 6a+ to 7b+ (ex 7c) outdoors in one fell swoop. Nice to be enjoying what essentially is a new sport to me. Feeling less whiteys coming on when going above bolts. Wow.

[chris05]

STG: get fingers back to full strength

M: conference
T: conference
W: conference
T: 60l swim (crawl), 5m run & core (300 moves)
F: 5m run, pull-ups (5*10), press-ups (5*20) & core (360)
S: 5.5m run & badminton
S: 5.5m run

Bit of a strange week with a conference at the start and visiting relatives at the end, both involved too much alcohol and not enough exercise! Just about managed to pull it together by the end of the week. Probably a good thing that I've been so busy as its stopped me from climbing and re-injuring finger.

[Barratt]

STG: 100% fitness
LTG: 7b

Mon: Rest
Tues: Weights set.
Wed: Rest
Thur: Badminton with the Mrs Barratt
Fri: Bouldering @ Works, tried new yellows and got spanked.
Sat: Bouldering @ Matrix, tried lots and failed often, hard new set.
Sun: Bouldering @ works, ok ish session just playing about on random stuff.


Certainly a better week than last. Still carrying these injuries but seem to be working around them ok. First time i've had three days on in a long long time so that's positive, feeling it today though so enforced rest tonight! Going to try and focus more on volume/endurance this week, dropping the intensity to give the fingers a good rest.

[duncan]

STG: E3 (Dreadnought)
MTG: E5

M: Trad. bumbling at East Lulworth.  Some very good E1s and E2s to be found here if you fancy a change of venue.
T: Shoulder stability stuff
W: Shoulder stability stuff
T: Rest
F: Portland sport - onsighting 6b+ish
S: Portland sport
S: Rest - knackered but not sore: very good.

A good week: 3 days of Real Climbing. 

I seem have taken to jumping off sport routes rather than going for it.  At least I'm not grabbing draws and it gives me something easy to work on.  That and my absolutely pathetic strength and running out of gas after about three goes at anything.

[roddersm]

STG Goals(2010):

Trad: Onsight several routes E1-E3.
Boulder: Work some problems at Fairhead 7a+-7c+. Split arete 6b+/E4.
Leftovers 7a+.
sport:  f7a in Verdon or Buoux.

LTG's:
Trad: E5 o\s
Sport: o/s 7b. rp 7c.
Boulder: 7C .

Mon  Climbing wall. Was there with niece and nephew so didn't get much done.
Tue   Climbing wall. Bouldering and stamina/PE circuits 2 hrs. 5*10 fingerboard pullups
Wed  Run 1 hr 8 min. about 8.5  miles.
Thur  Cimbing wall 2 hrs. Bouldering and stamina/PE circuits. 5*10 fingerboard pullups. 
Fri     Short Moon Fingerboard/ Bar session 35 min. Deadhangs (+10lbs) + lock offs. 
Sat   Morning Run 1hr 8 min (8.5  miles). Afternoon: Climbing wall 2.5 hrs Bouldering/PE cricuits
5*10 fb pullups.
Sun  Morning: Climbing wall session. Bouldering/PE circuits 1.5 hrs. Some arm and finger isolation stuff. Afternoon: Run 45 min (6.5ish miles).
 
Family stuff all week. No outdoor climbing but trained like a motherf**ker which I think sometimes is more benificial in the long run. Good news is I'm feeling as fit or fitter than ever,
bad news is 3 weeks from france I'm miles off the level I need to be! Would be great to be onsighting 6b+/6c in the gorge and do classics like rev de fer, biscotte margerine , turlu etc as well as climb 7a/7a+ in the surrounding crags. Would like to get to buoux for a few days and do some classic 6cs and 7as like TCF too. More training this week. need to keep up the running but add more  fingerboard work. Also more endurance stuff in the wall. Still plenty of trad goals to do but judging by the weather they might need to wait post france.

[Luthor]

M -
T -  Foundry, cut session short as felt crap
W - ill
T -  ill
F -  ill
S - light bouldering session at matrix
S - light bouldering session at works

Plans to up training this week scuppered by virus...

[chris_j_s]

Weight: 62kg

Aims for 2010: rp 7b+ sport, o/s 6c+ sport, 7A+ boulder.
New STG: Keep to training plan in order to be ready for Kalymnos (11 weeks)

M: Rest day - should have been strength session but still felt poisoned after drinking session on Sat night! 
T: Bouldering at Ingleton. Flashing lots of problems at difficulties that I was working for several weeks over the winter. Suitably knackered afterwards.
W: a.m - Strength session.
T: Routes at Gigg South. Just some easy onsighting, tried a 7a but left it a bit late and had to reverse it, stripping the gear in the dark.
F: a.m. Strength session.
S: Routes at Moughton Nab. Decided to have an onsighting session - 7 routes all onsight up to an including another 6c. Noticed that the votes on the other channel all said 6c+ but I think probably hard 6c was fair. V pleased with that as prob my best onsight to date.
S: Walk in the lakes. Took some gear to possibly do a route in Hodge Close but didn't have time in the end.

Good week. Managed to add another 4kg for my strength sessions, plus doing my hardest onsight so far was a bit of a result. Have a coaching day coming up in mid-august and looking to keep this momentum up so I'm climbing well for it.

[nai]

August goals - Finish TWTR, RP 7c , OS 7a, E3.
2010 goals - 8a, E4, 7C.

M
T - Cornice, arrived too early, twas very wet. Put clips in TWTR then immediately took them out.  Did mange to suss the remaining problematic move and have linked in two halves, so can move on to RP now.
W - Arrive at Rubicon expecting to boulder but bumped into Jowgli who kindly offered a belay on Brachiation Dance, did it easily first RP.
T - hours of gardening (= general conditioning?)
F - More gardening, lifting, etc, squeezed in a PE session on fingerboard - 6x4min on, 2min rest
S - tired, sore.
S - morning PE fb session, 8x3m on, 1 m off.

Coming into the last month of my sabbatical so need to step it up, good to get BD this week after last weeks frustrations with it.  Keen to get back on TWTR now and get that done.  Where does the time go?

[Richie Crouch]

STG: In Hell
MTG: Octopussy, Cote De Seshuan, Astronautfieber
LTG: Halfway House, Clyde & T Crack, sport 8a

Mon: Rest
Tue: Cave, IH wet so just do volume. Play on Clyde for a bit and it feels like it will be a goer in colder temps. Yet to do the last hard move though. Beaver Cleaver ss bonus tick at end of 5 hour session.
Wed: Churnet with BenF and meatball. Couple good new problems ticked. V humid and damp then we got plagued by flies and rain and my right hand fingers were in bad shape especially the middle right.
Thu: Rest, my right middle finger is swelled up big!
Fri: Rest, still have a gigantic finger but not as bad as Thurs. Can't close or straighten it either.
Sat: Go Cave anyway and it doesn't seem to hurt when climbing after a long warmup. Manage couple new things like Broken Heart into Lip Service and Sam's finish from a sitter. Did laps of lots of things inc Lou F for fitness/familiarisation. Have a look at Ferrino sans pocket but the undercut pinch is too wet to do lots of moves off. Do hot/cold water torture on middle finger in eve.
Sun: Rest, middle right finger is massive again! Do hot/cold water torture on it in evening.

Good week getting some new cave links/ticks to keep the psyche high. Was a bit gutted not to get a chance ot get back on In Hell due to wetness both visits but probably a good thing as my right middle finger is worryingly inflamed above the 2nd joint and on the sides so doesn't have a good range of movement and won't fully open or close. Time to rest.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Nice one on K3 Simon...

Goals: Decided to trim the goals and lay me cards on the table , so... The Sea Is a Brown Paper Bag and The Lockless Monster (punching above my weight here but there's method to my madness - below).

M: Morning Yoga, Evening Weights and Bar - 4 x 10 rep bicep curls @ 14.5Kg each arm, Frenchies, Pulls, Leg Raises, 100 sits and 60 pressups (2 x 30).
T: Climbing @ The Nook - Went with a couple of friends intent on doing the lockless monster, didn't think I'd have a chance but did all the moves... Decided to aim to tick this before the end of the season - seeing both my friends do it only added to my psyche
W: Rest
T: Climbing @ The Cornice - Felt tired, warmed up on a 6b, toproped a Snails of the Riverbank a few times, found the crux hard.
F: Morning Yoga.
S: Morning Yoga.
S: Climbing @ The Cornice - Aimed to get back on LM but a strong contingent from N-Wales were seiging it, headed to the cornice. Dogged up Cry of Dispair (not a good warmup).. Worked out the moves (although was too cold to do much). Decided to go for a quick tick so got on a couple of 7a at the far right (can't recall the names), took a lob off one, flashed the other.

A good week.. Got a new goal, actually ticked summat, got back on the weights\bar, climbed a fair bit too... Oh and did my first bit of full crimping with the dodgy finger, pretty much pain free now (just a bit weak and still taped).. Great!

This week: Get on projects, do more weights, maybe PE indoors if it's wet.. More yoga.

:D 

[Doylo]

Good week getting some new cave links/ticks to keep the psyche high. Was a bit gutted not to get a chance ot get back on In Hell due to wetness both visits but probably a good thing as my right middle finger is worryingly inflamed above the 2nd joint and on the sides so doesn't have a good range of movement and won't fully open or close. Time to rest.

In Hell bad news with a dodgy finger!

Monolith its MUDJEKEEWIS

[Monolith]

Tiredness can kill, I stand corrected!

Crouch, don't trash that joint! Hope you're on the mend fast soldier.

[Doylo]

no excuse, its not even welsh

[petejh]

Goal - VIII, 8a, 8A, E8, in 2010.
At - IX, 7c, 7B, E5.
Goal for August - One of: Mussel Beach/Parasite/Statement (LPT). Foil/Quasar/Stroll On in a day (pass). Right Wall & Resurrection back to back.

m. Work in London.
t. Ditto.
w. Mile End wall after work. Felt weak as a new-born kitten
t. Mile End wall after work. Felt weaker than a new born kitten.
f. Drove home.
s. Indi, did all the V4's, V3's and V2's. 28 problems. Good stamina sesh to blow the cobwebs off..
s. Hung on a rope on a proj in Gideon trying to remember how to use my feet.

Treading water this week. Still haven't touched any of the 8's at LPT due to greasiness, rain, work. Come on!

[Doylo]

Hombres going down LPT tomoz morning apparently Peter

[Ru]

M.
T.
W. Tor in evening. Just bouldered in an unfocussed manner, did Ben's Roof as per usual and failed to repeat a number of other problems that I've done before.
T.
F
S. Crag X. Struggled. Humid.
S. Tor with Stu. Again a bit unfocussed. Hurt shoulder on Tumbleweed - felt like it partially subluxed, but no pain, I'm hoping it's not bad, it's an old injury I thought I had fixed. Arse. Did Ben's Roof to see if it still worked. It did, but it then felt funny in the evening. No more climbing for a couple of days and need to start my old rehab/strengthening exercises again probably. Might go and see a physio.

[Bonjoy]

The only things in your finger shoulders are bone, tendon and pulley. Therefore odds on you've hurt one of those.  Whichever it is, you basically have 2 choices. You can either stop climbing on it and hope it gets better, or you can climb on it and hope it gets better. Option 3 is to visit your GP who will try and remember what's in a finger shoulder (their thinking will probably run "bone, tendon, erm other stringy bits). They will then diagnose injury to one or all of those and will suggest you stop climbing and hope it goes away. Or you can pay a £100 to a physio who will rub it a bit, shine a light on it or do some other vague treatment of negligable effect then tell you to stop climbing on it and hope it goes away.

[Ru]

Yeah, I know. I had an arthroscopy a few years ago that showed that I have a labrum tear that I opted to manage rather than have repaired surgically. I'm really going to see what the recommendations are now that I think I have subluxed the shoulder again. As my treating surgeon in is Cambridge I can't pop back there. It's a bit different to a finger injury.

[Bonjoy]

I think that's the same thing that Nige has had an op on both shoulders for. Costly but effective (up to a point) in his case.