[Andy B]

Does anyone who has looked at Theoria recently, and has knowledge of these things, reckon the bolts will be OK. I know that Ethan was thinking of rebolting it, but I'm likely to be there tomorrow, and was thinking of jumping on it as it is?

[fatboySlimfast]

I walked past it yesterday, looked pretty wank to me, hangers are ok but bolts are damn rusty.

[Ru]

I looked at it yesterday as I walked past. The bolts are pretty rusty,  but I've fallen repeatedly on much worse and you're only 10ft of the deck anyway. I can't guarantee anything and the official line must be to exercise caution, but personally I'd be fairly happy to climb it on those bolts and even if they're not replaced I'll probably try the route this weekend.

Note: I'm fairly light.

[uptown]

In my eyes, if people climb this on the old bolts then they don't deserve the tick. 
If there's one route that'd be real easy and real quick to do a rebolt job on then this is it, and it's superb bouldering on a rope which will see loads of interest with new pins and clean holds.
Pin it, warm up at the Cornice then come back to it later in the day to claim your wad.

[c.j.d.]

I was on this yesterday with Kook and Nodder.  We reckon it needs a damn good clean and some new bolts and are totally happy to do this in a couple of weeks time.  Good route, but what's the score?  I've got my sequence, and it involves climbing it properly from the ground (shock horror!) without the tree.

Felt like a pretty tricky boulder problem into the route itself.  I'm taking that its only 8a+ if you do NOT use the tree, Ben Moon style?

We have a drill, but would need the bolts (lower off is shit also, so probably 5 in total).

[chummer]

  What the fuck is wrong with you Chris? First your seen at LPT and now you're offering to re-bolt a route??


Does daddy sic boy Panton know about this?

[chummer]

I think it's brilliant

[Ru]

Good route, but what's the score?  I've got my sequence, and it involves climbing it properly from the ground (shock horror!) without the tree.

It's now done without the tree, from the ground, at 8a+.

[Bonjoy]

c.j.d - Brilliant, i'll pm you regarding the bolts.

[David S]

Blimey Chris, you'll be trad climbing next. 

Hope you're well, be good to catch up next time you're in the Peak. Let me know by PM.

Cheers

Dave

[c.j.d.]

Bonjoy, cheers for the info - if it's going to take longer than a week or so, I'll let you know as things do get busy.  No worries though - we do know (well, Dave knows) what he is doing, so the job'll be a good one

Dave - I will give you a shout: it would be good to hook up and have an apres climb/boulder ale or two.  Speak soon and take it easy, Chris.

[Doylo]

No worries though - we do know (well, Dave knows) what he is doing,

Thats not what he said to me today 
Effort Christoph

[nodder]

I think it's brilliant

Good job, can we borrow your drill then?

[Andy Harris]

John Hart did it from the tree at 8a+ then Ben Moon did it from the floor at 8a+. A bit harder but not much, never asked John why he did it like this. RH obvious pinch, LH to grippy sidepull out left, RH to obvious crimp then again to next crimp, LH gaston, hard press out right off poor foot to sidepull (RH), LH snatch in to crimp, RH high right pinch, LH foot off jump to jug, tops easy. Great route and more akin to an extended board problem on 1 joint edges/blocks. Font 7b+/c? Much underated and sig. more natural than it's neighbour.

[dave]

god i wish this route was at the tor.

[chummer]

We have a drill, but would need the bolts (lower off is shit also, so probably 5 in total).

Ha! I fucking knew you were talking about my drill!

No worries though - we do know (well, Dave knows) what he is doing,

Thats not what he said to me today 
Effort Christoph

Are they resins or through bolts?

[uptown]

what's the score?  I've got my sequence, and it involves climbing it properly from the ground (shock horror!) without the tree.

Great route and POC tick.
You'd struggle to do it from the tree anymore, it's long gone, although it might be possible from the larger Sycamore with Ninja skills
Wad in advance for the re-bolt.

[c.j.d.]

Andy,

Thats a very similar sequence to mine, and I thought 7c bloc.  There seems to be a crimp out right in a mini 'niche' to out paid to the larger move to the jug, but I'm not sure which is easier:  I did not do this bit due to rusty bolts in my face and a fierce fear (very high route were on here obviously).

Looking forward to the hilarity's which will precede the lead of this one.  Last month Mental Lentils, this month, Theoria.

[corniceman]

I did this from the ground in 92 without any recourse to the tree. there's no way I could boulder at 7C then or now,so it cant be that hard it was just a standard 8a plus in its day and a pretty good one too!

[Stu Littlefair]

Rupert and I had a pootle on this at the weekend. The old bolts are not too bad (results may vary etc) and the climbing is flipping ace. It's clean all the way to the end of the hard climbing, although we experienced some confusion about where the route goes after the jugs in the niche. The rockfax shows the line going right, but the text describes a sequence going left into the finish of Lockless. Confusingly, the BMC guide states the route finishes out right, but has a description for Lockless which indicates that it and theoria share a finish. To add layers to the mystery there was an old bolt above the jugs of theoria, but the rock was so decaying it's hard to believe anyone ever went up there.

In the end we finished via an elegant traverse into the niche of lockless. Can anyone more old skool than me make sense of this rambling nonsense?

As an aside, perhaps a tougher right hand finish to lockless can explain the mystery of how this ever got in a guide at 8a?

[Andy Harris]

I definately finished direct. Seem to remember it was quite runout for such a short route but then the climbing was easy. I must have done it 12-15 years ago. I wonder if there was an old tape on it? As for making Lockless 8a I seem to remember rumour of a hold falling off / crumbling so it must be harder and therefore upgraded even though noone actually did it to confirm.

Incedentally had a go on Love of money at blackwell dale last night. It's quite similar to theoria in length / style but much harder and really quite good.

[Stu Littlefair]

Sounds like John Hart finished direct as well. This won't be too hard, but I reckon the rock must have decayed a lot over the past winters. It'll need a good cleaning of the loose stuff to be climbable that way again...