[shark]

Goal: Oak. 10,000 8a nu points
Weight: 11.1-3/4

M.Comprehensive strength workout (weights work near PB's)
T.Early AM Yoga. Eve Foundry with boys. Bouldering Wave and board
W.
T.Eve. Foundry with Poppy. Bouldering Wave and board
F.Eve. Belaying duty at Foundry. Ben led a 6c.
S.Cornice. Conditions good, climbed well, made progress but no cigar.
S.PM Stanage Causeway with Ben & Tom. Some easyish bouldering

Ace day on Saturday despite not bagging route. Touched the undercut at the end of the crux section but on the outside rather than inside. Hopefully back again tomorrow eve. Decided to invest in some coaching for me and the boys.

[Charles]

STG - Continue weight loss (goal = 154lbs)  > Onsight F7a > Improve Power Endurance
MTG - Get proper fit for Mallorca in September > Onsight F7b (Waikiki or Phantomas)
LTG - F8a

Monday - Power endurance. Managed 6 repeats of the F6c circuit on the board at the Depot. However, don't think this circuit is a good one for training on as it is easy easy easy and then suddenly a jump harder in the final section.
Tuesday - nothing
Wednesday - beered.
Thursday - graduated.
Friday - Meant to be another PE session but bouldering just too much fun. Did some reasonably hard things. Played in the big roof. Flashed a F6c+. Got spanked by the F7b.
Saturday - nothing
Sunday - nothing.

Quieter week this one. Already feel some power returning from the little bit of bouldering.

Weight was 159.2lbs when I weighed myself mid-week. Good.

[Doylo]

STG: Improve Strength/PE
MTG: Diamond Proj
LTG: Be stronger/fitter next year (8b+/c)

M - Back to Stark with Nodder, fully raining but the route was dry. Still pretty shit on it, mainly a strength thing. Got some of the moves more sorted though.  Conditons weren't too bad all things considered.
T - Mill. Ended up doing 20 move 7b+ circuit 7 times with a 3 minute rest between.
W - Mill. Set a new 7c+ circuit, concentrated on making it as sustained as i could with no proper jugs and a hardish finish. 26 moves, didn't manage it.
T - Work( )/rest
F- Mill. Managed my 40 mover for the first time, found it pretty tiring.
S - Mill. Did long circuit again and 7b+ on the minute (failed on 6). So pumped.
S - LPT, did a 5+ twice, shit conditions in the middle sections of the steep routes. Was gonna have some burns on Bad Boy as a test of fitness but ran out of time and put off by the grease. Also started the DD plan, back on the diet and 10 sets of 10 seconds on my deadhang edge.

Good week on the circuits front. Spoke to Simpson (the training guru) today though and he reckons i need to slow down the circuits. I concur, on the board you tend to fly through the moves quicker than you do on rock. Need to be as specific as possible. Apparently its all about your forearms contracting when you move from one hold to the next. So gonna slow down and pretend to clip every 3 move or so.  Food for thought....

[shark]

Good week on the circuits front. Spoke to Simpson (the training guru) today though and he reckons i need to slow down the circuits. I concur, on the board you tend to fly through the moves quicker than you do on rock. Need to be as specific as possible. Apparently its all about your forearms contracting when you move from one hold to the next. So gonna slow down and pretend to clip every 3 move or so.  Food for thought....

I count to 3 on each hold when I do that sort of work

[Doylo]

 

[Dr T]

STG: Get strong again (and lose weight)
LTG: Font early next year - be strong enough to kinda keep pace with Neil - collect a good handful of 7a to c problems along the way – specifically (?) Modular, L’Angle Ben’s, La Memel, La Baleine, Deux Faux Plis en Plats Réels are all targets on a long list
Weight – start of week 76.9 end of week 77.1 – despite low cal intake weight not dropping, just energy levels, might this be about natural weight???

Mon. Driving back from seeing in-laws in Lincolnshire and getting over the after effects of the flu

Tues. 3 hour solo session on school wall - started light then built up to about 6c, felt physically ok but stamina-wise weak

Wed. 1 hour plus session on 45 deg’ board – felt ok but not as strong as I would like

Thurs. Rest day

Fri. Morning - 1 plus hour session on the 45 deg’ board – felt strong – completed a number of problems that wouldn’t go on Wednesday Short beastmaker session in the evening with the Missus.

Sat. 2 hours(ish) on the school wall – felt strong finished up the majority of the problems, one left to do with an eliminate – problems up to about 7a+. Felt strong and, importantly, motivated.

Sun. 45 minutes – aborted session on the 45 deg board – way too hot/muggy and too close to finishing a rather nice bowl of chilli – either that or my forearms were still destroyed from Sat’s fun – or a mix of all three - need a rest tomorrow so will probably go for a run

School wall is shown below – has been reset since this photo with extra volume fun etc

45deg’ board (maybe a bit steeper) is in the shed at the end of the garden, dirty crimps, pinches and mainly slopers about nine foot of board with a smaill kickboard

[GCW]

Short term goals
Climb 10 font 7s in Bleau (August trip)- a bit ambitious maybe.

Medium Term goals
Climb font 7c in 2010 (a bit ambitious maybe).
Lose (almost) a stone initially (aim for 83kg)- also a bit ambitious!
Do my Winter Hill run in under 43:12 (average 10kmh).



M-  Finished nights.  2 hours at West View in the vening on V5 and below stuff.  Had 2 G+T adn 3 glasses of wine.
T-  Had the Blobs all day- ie nowt.
W-  Winter Hill run.  7.2km, 230m ascent.  44:36.  Slightly quicker.
T-  2 hours at Brownstones traversing and lapping the easier (7a and below) problems.  3 glasses white wine.
F-  Half an hour at Brownstones, repeat of yesterday.  Knees aching.  Then Cadhshaw run with RGinns.  7.7kmh, 130m ascent.  40:27.  A bit better.
S-  Sore knees.  Went to a barbeque.  Evening run of 5.8km cross country.  33:01, better but still 80 seconds off my PB.  3 glasses wine.
S-  General Blob herding, went for a walk.  3 glasses red.


Weigh in this morning= 85.5kg, up from last week.  The alcohol slippage could be partly responsible.  Gut a bit less, err, massive though.

This last week has been a bit high on wine drinking, and a bit low on running (only done 20.7km).  Will have to pick things up this week.

[Falling Down]

M - Nowt
T - 1 hour hill run.
W - Cheedale: Had a quick tour round Two Tier, Max's and Embankment and did the easier routes with Erm Sam. Very humid so the easier routes felt very hard.
T - Nowt (London and back)
F - 1 hour MTB, Kettlebell Breathing Ladder, Burpees and Squats
S - Cheedale. Warmed up on Embankment then Cornice & dogged The Third Order (7b) twice. Warmed down on 6b+. Tired.
S - Really sore and tired so had a hike with wife and dogs with a swim in the pool below Three Shires Head.

A good week in retrospect. Getting on the route at the Cornice was good. I managed to do all the moves once, though my second try was pretty woeful. It feels a long way away from a redpoint but that's what I was looking for.  Also met Shark for the first time. 

Goals this week:
- Climb tonight somewhere.
- Gym session Tues evening
- Fingerboard Thurs
- Climb both days at weekend (1 trad 1 sport)
- Sell Banjo

[Barratt]

Bad week.

Pulled an intercostal on Monday at RT, climbed for first time on Sunday.

Well on way to recovery though so hopeful of better week ahead.

[petejh]

Goal - VIII, 8a, 8A, E8, in 2010.
At - IX, 7c, 7B, E5.
Goal for July/August - One of: Mussel Beach/Parasite/Statement (LPT). Foil/Quasar/Stroll On in a day (pass). Right Wall & Resurrection back to back.

m. UPT, Testament area. OS'd 6c and 6c+ and RP'd a good 7a+. Nice to be able to climb in the rain.
t. LPT, too greasy to do anything, then started raining. Tried Tomorrow People in the cave, should have got it first rp but was a bit slack and foot slipped off.
w. Couple of quick routes on UPT in the evening in-between showers, nothing going on.
t. Nowt.
f. A.M. 30mins campussing 1-5-nothing. P.M. PE - 4x4 on V3,V3,V3,V2, completed all 16 with spare in the tank.
s. A.M. videod myself bouldering for movement training, quite useful. P.M. 45 mins ARC traverse.
s. Nowt.

Frustrating week because of the weather, not been able to get going on any of the 8's yet at LPT. Some good training sessions in the wall though. I'm starting to think the UK climate subtracts around a grade from your annual potential best effort.

[roddersm]

STG Goals(2010):

Trad: Onsight several routes E1-E3.
Boulder: Work some problems at Fairhead 7a+-7c+. Split arete 6b+/E4.
sport: Onsight at least f7a in Verdon or Buoux.

LTG's:
Trad: E5 o\s
Sport: o/s 7b. rp 7c.
Boulder: At least 7C .

Mon  Rest.
Tue   Climbing wall. Bouldering and stamina circuits 2 hrs. 6*10 fingerboard pullups
Wed  Rest. Feel ill.
Thur  Outdoor Climbing wall session.Technical fingery traverses 2 hrs. Still ill.
Fri     Rest. Ill.
Sat   Run 1hr 8 min. Illish.
Sun  Morning: Climbing wall session. Bouldering 1.5 hrs. 5* 10 fingerboard pullups.
Afternoon: Moonfingerboard session. 45min deadhangs(+10lbs). 1 arm lock offs (on bar).
2*10 pullups(+10lbs).
 
As predicted a quiet week due to family visting. Felt sick with some kind of virus too so haven't trained too much. Next week will be quiet too but will try and train a bit harder. Need to start getting up at 6 am to run before work but easier said than done....

[GCW]

Sorry for being dim, Pete, but are you aiming for Scottish VIII and you're at IX?

[Three Nine]

STG: Onsight a stack of 7bs/7b+s, some above the water/do another 8a
MTG: Onsight 7cs/redpoint 8as in Europe
LTG: Tuppence 2011

M rest, cardio 30mins run
T made most of some whack weather at Cheddar, fell off top of 7b onsight, did a couple of 7as
W 45 2 hours, not too bad
T 45/deadhangs 2 hours, skin hurt, cardio 20 mins run
F rest, cardio 30 mins run
S great day at Witches Point, onsighted 7a+, 7b, 7b+. First UK 7b+ onsight (albeit soft)
S poor day at Dinas Rock. Our original target was wet and little sleep sat. Pottered and elbow sore.

A comfortable 8 places above Shark on 8a.nu 

[chris_j_s]

Weight: 62kg

Aims for 2010: rp 7b+ sport, o/s 6c+ sport, 7A+ boulder.
New STG: Keep to training plan in order to be ready for Kalymnos (12 weeks and counting)

M: a.m - Strength (hyp) session, 1 hour - felt weak at the beginning but recovered towards the end.
T: Routes at Kendal - good session up to 7a+. For the first time ever got the feeling that I was actually getting something back on a juggy rest in the middle of a steep 7a+. Until now its always been better to sprint through to the end before strength departs - not ideal tactics for long routes!
W: a.m - Strength session, 1 hour.
T: Rest Day
F: a.m. Strength session - 1 hour.  P.m. First outdoor route for ages, a very good 7a (Cave and Crag) on Castlebergh. The start is shared with another 7a (Practically Everything) which I did in April and commented on my 8a account that it was desperate for me. Felt like a pretty standard 7a and not too bad today so I must be making some progress!
S: Went tradding for the afternoon at Rylstone just chilling and doing some classic routes (Monument Crack probably highlight of the day - brilliant route!). Invited out for 'a couple of drinks' in the evening, arrived home at 3am a bit worse for wear! 
S: Lost half the day to feeling crap, out for a bit of a walk p.m. then diying for the rest of the day (laborious bathroom rebuilding complete, plumbing done and beginning to tile the shower now - YYFY!)

[Richie Crouch]

STG: In Hell
MTG: Octopussy, Cote De Seshuan, Astronautfieber
LTG: Halfway House, Clyde & T Crack, sport 8a

Mon: Rest
Tue: Good warmup cruising a few things, the power was on for a change. 4 redpoints to the stab to the slot on In Hell including holding the finish slot and not being able to match due to losing all energy in an instant. best session on it. Don't want to linger on this move for too much longer for sake of sanity!
Wed: Reset the crypt bouldering and tested moves all day whilst setting, felt ruined at end. 1 glass of Wine in evening.
Thu: Rest
Fri: Cold
Sat: Still have a cold but have a short session in crypt anyway, fail to do either red. 1 beer in evening.
Sun: Felt mildly better but still have a bit of a cold and aches, better session down in crypt climbing the 20 move red v8+ in 2 halves, hopefully the benefits will cross over to cave climbing. 1 glass of red.

Was hoping to train hard Thurs/Fri this week then take a triple rest day for Tues redpointing but came down with a cold which is frustrating. Feel at about 60% after my last 2 short sessions and not sure whether to sack off Tues cave day and just train for a week free of cold.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: As last week.

M: Yoga AM - Surfing PM
T: Yoga AM - Surfing PM
W: Yoga AM - Surfing PM
T: Yoga AM - Surfing PM
F:Yoga AM - Bouldering @ Hartland. Looked at Carnage, whole wall was wet.  Went to the trench and did everything up to 6c+ (flash), just failed to do a 7a as I ran out of time. No waves.
S: Yoga and 5 mile run around Bude (inc beach which destroyed me). No waves.
S: Nowt.

Good fun trip down to the in-laws, did a bit of surfing, probably would have done more if there'd been more waves... Managed yoga everyday down there and a bit of bouldering too... Nice!

This week: Get back on with the business in hand... PE circuits, get on project, weights, bouldering... Keep up the yoga.

:D

[Nibile]

mon - weights. half session but feeling a bit tired. skipped all the back exercises due to sunday's beastmaker session as planned.
tue - rest. knackered.
wed - beastmaker session, max hangs one arm, and front levers. very pleased about improvement.
thu - weights. full session but felt e bit tired on the pecs. triceps are super improved. then did one armed lat machine, feeling better. I just did one rep from 40 kg on, 5 kg improvements, until failure.
fri - rest. should have driven to the dolomites but you already know ehat's going on...
sat - drove to the sea.
sun - surf. crap session (as crap ans surfing in the sun in shorts can be). tired.

comments.
getting on real rock seems every day more difficult. I have classes until late so even the afternoon session on the toprope are on a hold. so I'm trying to focus on my training, one day I'll reap the reward, in one way or the ohter. I will do weights for a couple of weeks more, then the gym will close until end of august, and I will concentrate on the beastmaker.
I am very pleased about my progresses on the wooden goddess, it fucking works.
keep the faith.

[shark]

A comfortable 8 places above Shark on 8a.nu 

Nice one - but don't get cocky. I'm 209 points behind but if I get K3 this week that will bump me up 197 points. Unfortunately I'm also coming up to my anniversary of redpointing the Prow so will drop 100 points then.

[webbo]

Mon.wall very hot so just did repeats 5 problems 3 times plus warm up and down.started diet.
Tue.out on bike 1 1/2 hours including 5 mins on 1 min off at threshold.diet
Wed. appear to have lost 5lbs in 2 days.went to almscliff pissed down before we got out of the car.went to leeds wall.good session 4 v6s and a v5/6 plus easier stuff.diet
Thu. feel a bit shit so did nothing.diet cracked
Fri.rode to work and back 50 mins each way.
Sat feel crappy and totally lacking in motivation.going looking at houses and shopping with the missus.
Sun. bike 4 hrs hilly.
weight 11st 11.1 so i lost an ounce, need to stick with the regime.i think i got quite dehydrated at the start of the week which left me feeling ill at times and struggling to do anything.   

[andybfreeman]

STG - boulder 7B, onsight 7a
MTG - boulder 7B in the forest, climb Just Revenge and Cider Soak @ Ansteys
LTG - get to the point where I can consistently RP 8a, boulder 7C

M - long session @ TCA after work. Good progress on new hard green circuit, feeling better after 2 weeks of feeling a bit weak after Spain trip
T - rest
W - power session on 45 deg board. Felt pretty good but knackered after 2 hours
Th -TCA. mix of more new greens and circuits. Struggled on hard circuits so need to get back to doing at one or more dedicated sessions each week
F - rest. Late night with little bro and lots of wine
Sa - woke up feeling rough as hell then headed to Cratcliffe. Tried T-crack but couldn't top out. Realised too late that campusing to the dish then sorting my feet was my best chance. Need to get back to have another go when I'm not feeling like warmed up death! Had a play on jerry's traverse, did all the moves and linked from 1/2 but didn't have the beans to finish
Su - Fun day at secret garden, mother cap and owler tor. no skin but did loads of easy stuff and a cool 6C at SG and Conan the Librarian 6B+ at Mother Cap

Weight heading in the right direction at last, 67.5kg average last week but down to 66.9kg today. Need to drop another kilo or two and get back on the PE circuits before I try CS again!

[chillax]

STG: E3
MTG: E4
LLTG: E7

Mon - Sat: Sweet fuck all. Had a progress meeting with my MSc supervisor, so it was all work work work. Maybe a fingerboard session, can't really remember.
Sun: Bit of a miserable day at Fair Head. Led a wet HVS and a wetter E1.

Not much of note this week, but the masters is back on track and I ticked another of the Prow E1's so not too bad. Might be out again tomorrow if the weathers alright. Hopefully this week will be a bit more productive.

[cmerch]

Goals: Trad climbing in North Carolina, onsight Cornflake Crack
Mon: 4 mile run and mow the lawn
Tues: 3 mile run and campus
Wed: nothing
Thurs: Climb at Foster Falls in am, 10k run in pm
Fri: Mow the grass at lake house in am, climb at Fosters in pm
Sat: Take boat out on river and 2 mile run
Sun: Campus board
OK week, looking forward to trad and crack climbing in NC in Aug.
Howdy Andy Popp!

[Monolith]

STG's: Get back moving after months of bare activity. Lots of route volume to induce muscles.
MTG's: Get boulder project done in Sep/Oct when cooler temps.
LTGS: Said last week "Was going to write something like Mecca but just watched a video of Andy Harris on it falling at end. Realised he's on home turf. Hmmm. Something have to work hard for will come to mind in time I'm sure."
Thinking further about this, I'd rather not put a number or a label on it. I've realised it's mainly by getting on things that I get motivated for them. Boulder-wise some quality 8a's in Chironico and a tick of something hard and classic would be nice on the end of a rope.

m - Fingerboard. Simulated clip and powerpulls.
t- Fingerboard, small rung hangs and some pulls.
w - Rest
t -  Rest
f - Rest
s - Fingerboard. Small rung hangs and powerpulls (did 75).
s - Went to greasy LPT with the Don and Mike. Grease in abundance. Moved to Dulas, made progress on Mudjakeewis.


Good week. Felt surge of intense psyche that hasn't been present of late. Feeling like getting back to strength on fingerboard.
Slowly getting used to climbing above bolts again but still something of a whitey. Keep thinking I'm bouldering and have climbed too high. Must realise I'm locked into a harness. Very happy with yesterday walking through crux of Mudja but feeling pumped when took arm off to clip on higher easy section. Don said to train on bigger holds so that's the plan for this week.

[Luthor]

Another fairly quiet week... time to ramp it up again 

Tues - Works
Wed - Rubicon, repeated rubicon and worked moves on something harder
Fri - Works, comp wall

[nai]

stg - improve PE, RP That Was The River & Brachiation Dance
mtg - onsight 7a, E3, further PE improvements.
ltg - E4, 7C, 8a

M
T - waited for the rain that never arrived, wasted day.
W - Cornice, piss poor OS attempt at Armistice Day.  Worked TWTR.  Great sequence of moves.
T - got so bored at home I did some wii fit
F  WCJ Cornice, easily made it to the last move of BD 3 times but just couldn't make the last move.
S
S - Early morning PE session on the fingerboard, swimming with kids.

Friday was very disappointing, I can do the top move of BD four different ways and find it relatively easy to there but just kept missing the hold.  Ripped a big flapper last go too.