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North Wales bouldering info? (Read 8651 times)

Dave Flanagan

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North Wales bouldering info?
November 25, 2002, 01:23:38 pm
Am going over from Dublin next weekend.
Interested in problems from Font5-7.
What are the essential areas to visit?
What if the weather is shit?
How long will it take Simon to reply?
What the story with camping (ie. not in campsites)?

thanks

Dave Flanagan

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#1 North Wales bouldering info?
November 25, 2002, 08:42:44 pm
7 hours and 19 minutes I reckon.

When are you arriving? I could arrange a 'special' package for you to be left at the Outside shop in Llanberis if you like. I might even be able to sneak out and show you around a crag or two. I'm actually off at the weekend, but I am fairly committed with two small children, so I'll have to run it past the management (my wife).
I'll check who else is around; I'm sure one of the local lads would be up for meeting you, at least for one of the days.

Cheers, Simon.

Nigel

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#2 North Wales bouldering info?
November 25, 2002, 10:47:59 pm
Hey Simon, first time I've seen you on the net for ages, just thought I'd mention how much I'm looking forward to your next bouldering scene, hoping as I am for one of your patented "Gaskins Specials"! Jolly nice of Bernard to let you have 4 pages and a full page photo for the last one, 'bout bloody time! Have you got any good pics of Walk Away for my wall (hoping for a full-pager)?

Dave, love your site, the Glendalough topo is the biz and was well helpful when we popped in for a day over Easter. Well, it would have been if we'd remembered to take it. Just had another look at it now via your plugged link, noticed that the groove left of Andy's Arete is in as a blue started off a boulder. We did it off the ground (no topo eh! Best way...) and its a much better problem, about 7a/7a+. Sit-start got worked aswell, but not done, maybe next time we're over. North Wales bouldering photo-star Chris Doyle also did the sit-start to Andy's Arete, must be 7a+ or 7b I guess. Saw a nice photo of a prob we tried aswell, you've got it called Great White Wrestling. Your bouldering scene over there must be quite psyched, its a hard problem, nice one! Who did it?, as we should be over next Easter again and it'd be nice to have a guide who knew where the projects were and had some beta on the stuff you've got already.

Have fun in Wales (btw you can camp opposite the Cromlech boulders for 50p a night, just a field like, seems to match your description. I'm sure Mr Panton knows all though, he'll tell you).

Nigel

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#3 North Wales bouldering info?
November 25, 2002, 10:49:12 pm
(Signed, Neil Kershaw. Why didn't I just use my real name?!)

Bubba

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#4 North Wales bouldering info?
November 26, 2002, 07:14:03 am
Well, you can change it if you like  :)

Dave Flanagan

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#5 North Wales bouldering info?
November 26, 2002, 09:38:45 am
Quote from: "Pantontino"
7 hours and 19 minutes I reckon.

When are you arriving? I could arrange a 'special' package for you to be left at the Outside shop in Llanberis if you like. I might even be able to sneak out and show you around a crag or two. I'm actually off at the weekend, but I am fairly committed with two small children, so I'll have to run it past the management (my wife).
I'll check who else is around; I'm sure one of the local lads would be up for meeting you, at least for one of the days.

Cheers, Simon.


Thanks Simon.
We are arriving at Holyhead at 8 on Friday morning.
The 'special package' would be much appreciated and it would be great to meet up...

Dave

Dave Flanagan

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#6 North Wales bouldering info?
November 26, 2002, 09:59:36 am
Quote from: "Nigel"

Dave, love your site, the Glendalough topo is the biz and was well helpful when we popped in for a day over Easter. Well, it would have been if we'd remembered to take it. Just had another look at it now via your plugged link, noticed that the groove left of Andy's Arete is in as a blue started off a boulder. We did it off the ground (no topo eh! Best way...) and its a much better problem, about 7a/7a+. Sit-start got worked aswell, but not done, maybe next time we're over. North Wales bouldering photo-star Chris Doyle also did the sit-start to Andy's Arete, must be 7a+ or 7b I guess. Saw a nice photo of a prob we tried aswell, you've got it called Great White Wrestling. Your bouldering scene over there must be quite psyched, its a hard problem, nice one! Who did it?, as we should be over next Easter again and it'd be nice to have a guide who knew where the projects were and had some beta on the stuff you've got already.


Thanks for the feedback Neil/Nigel.
Does this sound like the problem you did in the groove?
"The one Mark did was about 4/5ft to left of arete. Using the two polish
footholds at armsreach from the ground. Stadning is about font 7a sit is
about 7c+"
The Mark in question is Mark Croxall. (sp?)
The ss to Andys has been done a few times,  I will update the page.
Adam Lincoln did Great white wrestling last Summer I think.
N0 offence but hopefully I will be in Font next Easter - I am sure you understand- if you mail me before you come I could point you at some worthwhile stuff...

Quote
Have fun in Wales (btw you can camp opposite the Cromlech boulders for 50p a night, just a field like, seems to match your description. I'm sure Mr Panton knows all though, he'll tell you).


Thats sounds excatly what we are looking for, thanks.

Dave

Nigel

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#7 North Wales bouldering info?
November 26, 2002, 10:09:23 am
Yeah, that's the problem we did. Chuffed someone's done the sit-start, the grade for that sounds about right, it was pretty tricky as I remember! I don't recall the footholds being from Poland though, the ones we used were homegrown Irish granite and so I'm claiming a harder grade (pure ascent you understand!).

We tried Great White Wrestling with Adam, and he didn't do it when we were there (Easter). Maybe he went back over the summer???? Don't know. If not then it hasn't been done (unless someone else has done it since).

Yeah, it'd be nice to be pointed in the right directions for our next trip, nothing more fun than putting up new problems. Are there any new areas waiting to be developed?

Dave Flanagan

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#8 North Wales bouldering info?
November 26, 2002, 10:38:29 am
Quote from: "Nigel"
I don't recall the footholds being from Poland though, the ones we used were homegrown Irish granite and so I'm claiming a harder grade (pure ascent you understand!).


Never noticed the Polish thing.

Quote
We tried Great White Wrestling with Adam, and he didn't do it when we were there (Easter). Maybe he went back over the summer???? Don't know. If not then it hasn't been done (unless someone else has done it since).


My understanding is that he climbed it, named it and graded it.
http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=4055398&a=30348745&p=61607354&f=
I am sure he will see this thread and clarify things.

Quote
Yeah, it'd be nice to be pointed in the right directions for our next trip, nothing more fun than putting up new problems. Are there any new areas waiting to be developed?

I have just drawn a topo to a place called Glenmacnass (its near Glendo) which has a good bit to do (he said coyly).

D

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#9 North Wales bouldering info?
November 26, 2002, 11:15:27 am
Yeah, saw the Glanmacnass place on your site, new since I last looked months ago, pics look ace! Can't wait to give the place a go, I love the granite you've got. Nice one.

Can't believe you didn't notice the Polish thing, I thought it was hilarious! Ha ha, must just be me. I'm still laughing anyway, all that matters.

Had a look at the link for GWW pic. Sure, some pictures of Adam hauling his ass off the ground which I've seen before (Chris took them), but the problem did not get done that day. In fact it was me who came closest (not really blowing my own trumpet, wait for it...) and I got nowhere near! If Adam didn't go back to Ireland then it hasn't been done, unless someone else has done it. Hopefully he will see this thread and clarify things.

Dave Flanagan

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#10 North Wales bouldering info?
November 26, 2002, 11:30:43 am
Quote from: "Nigel"
Yeah, saw the Glanmacnass place on your site, new since I last looked months ago, pics look ace! Can't wait to give the place a go, I love the granite you've got. Nice one.


The rock in Glenmac is quite different from Glendo less featured, more crystally, harder on the hands. The photos don't do it justice...

Nigel

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#11 North Wales bouldering info?
November 26, 2002, 03:26:47 pm
Awesome, can't wait. Have you had a look on all the OS maps of the area for more rock, or been for long exploratory walks on shit days? There must be more! Maybe there's an Irish Pawtuckaway or Little Cottonwood just waiting to be discovered...

P.S. Has GWW been repeated by an Irishman? Or maybe Mark Croxall?

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#12 North Wales bouldering info?
November 26, 2002, 08:38:43 pm
Adam Lincoln hasn't done Great White Wrestling, its about V8+ though and he couldn't do any of the moves. He gets a bit confused sometimes about what he's climbed and what he hasn't, bless his cotton socks!

Dave Flanagan

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#13 North Wales bouldering info?
November 27, 2002, 05:03:22 pm
Quote from: "Chris Doyle"
Adam Lincoln hasn't done Great White Wrestling, its about V8+ though and he couldn't do any of the moves. He gets a bit confused sometimes about what he's climbed and what he hasn't, bless his cotton socks!


Strange no word from Adam on this?
It has now revert back to its old name - The Fin.

Dave

Nigel

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#14 North Wales bouldering info?
November 27, 2002, 06:52:24 pm
Wooah! I've never seen a website get updated so fast! Extremely impressive, I take my hat off (only 'cos my head's hot though).

It is strange that Adam hasn't replied; maybe he's trying really hard to remember whether he did it or not. Or maybe he's a bit shy about admitting to little white lie...

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#15 North Wales bouldering info?
November 27, 2002, 07:19:24 pm
Maybe he's not seen this thread - don't think he's ever posted over here....

Nigel

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#16 North Wales bouldering info?
November 28, 2002, 04:56:08 pm
Chris, I'm confused. You're adamant that Caes...Adam hasn't done the problem, yet on your photo gallery on ukclimbing you have several views of him on it with the caption explaining that he's "cranking a font 7c". Have you contradicted yourself?

(Come to think of it you have tons of photos of him there, are you his no. 1 fan or something?)

AndyR

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#17 North Wales bouldering info?
November 29, 2002, 11:32:11 am
Dave - when's the Glanmac topo going on your site? Would be good to get some of the problems graded.

BTW, the arete to the right of The Fin (or whatever it's called now - I'm sure Gary Gibson did it back in the eighties.........) is never 7a - pretty regular V4 I reckon (not that it really matters).

Neil/Nigel - you can always give me or several other people a shout if you're over - my knowledge is v. poor compared to Dave's, but I know where there's the odd cheeky project......

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#18 North Wales bouldering info?
November 29, 2002, 12:36:04 pm
Hey Andy - is that you Reeve? How's it going yoof? Hope you'tr going well.

I thought that arete was worth V6 (7a), but who cares, it was the best problem I did at Glendalough, thoroughly quality!

I didn't know you'd been to Ireland, I'd defo like to know where these "cheeky" projects are. Do tell...

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#19 North Wales bouldering info?
November 29, 2002, 01:32:41 pm
Fraid not - I'm Andy Robinson - I live over here, but I still know where the cheeky projects are........

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#20 North Wales bouldering info?
November 29, 2002, 05:15:30 pm
Hi Neil and chris! Hey Dave I went to Glendelough the other week on the recomondation of my man J Gaskins, and might I say it was excellent!
Thats a shame that Adam has not done Great whit...I mean The Finn (get it Poilish, Finn?) Any way he is usually so reliable. Me and my mate did that problem left of Andy`s Arete (without the boulder) I thought it around V4/Fnt6c? but hey it`s niether here nor there. Has any one done that problem up on the hillside above Andy`s Arete? Its a highball with a big move through an overlap and onto a slab...looks wicked!
I`ll be back when I`m strong again (could be some time!)

Greg

Dave Flanagan

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#21 North Wales bouldering info?
December 02, 2002, 11:19:03 am
Quote from: "AndyR"
Dave - when's the Glanmac topo going on your site? Would be good to get some of the problems graded.


Hopefully some time this week. Its proving to be quite a job.

Quote from: "AndyR"
BTW, the arete to the right of The Fin is never 7a - pretty regular V4 I reckon (not that it really matters).


I agree, I have been meaning to change it for ages. I think maybe Font6b.
Though I think it can depend on how you start it.

Quote from: "Greg C"
Me and my mate did that problem left of Andy`s Arete (without the boulder) I thought it around V4/Fnt6c?


I think there might be 2 lines one in the groove and one starting slightly to the right on crimps.

This is the line people are talking about when they say the groove I assume. If so I'd say it was easier than Font6c?

Quote from: "Greg C"
Has any one done that problem up on the hillside above Andy's Arete? Its a highball with a big move through an overlap and onto a slab...looks wicked!


I think it has been looked at, I heard it was quite a small.
The one I am thinking of is just out of the photo on the top left hand corner.

To bring the thread back on topic we had 3 good days in NW.
We got to Port Ysgo, Parsellas and the Wavelength.  
Thanks to Simon for all the information, hopefully we can return the favour if there is a return visit.

Dave

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#22 North Wales bouldering info?
December 02, 2002, 02:08:50 pm
If thats your idea of small you guys must have nerves of steel! :shock:
I got pretty close to the thin end quartzy slab on the ruin boulders in between the to aretes this is a bit eliminate in that you have to avoid the arete on the right but never the less its still a good line, I would of had it but I blew a tip on the damn thing (excuses excuses!!)

Greg

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#23 North Wales bouldering info?
December 04, 2002, 09:59:17 am
You still doing a Lancashire guide or what Greg? You gonna sack Beauty of being numb and Screaming Slave LH down to V8+ and V9?

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#24 North Wales bouldering info?
December 06, 2002, 11:37:50 am
Watch your tongue young man, Screaming Slave LH used to get V11! OK then, maybe V9/10. Oh sod it, V10. I agree about Beauty though...

 

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