[J_duds]

Can anyone assist with the crux sequence on In Brine?     

We were on it today, and found real trouble in linking the moves from the two good side pulls at the 3rd bolt, into a poor crimp and then a slopey LH sidepull.  Poor feet. 

There is talk on previous forums of a sugar cube hold - what and where is this hold on the route?

[JC]

I think the poor crimp you refer to is/was the sugar cube hold.  I had heard that it had come off again, possibly permanently now?? It was a pretty obvious two finger cube shaped hold.

Anyway if i remember correctly the sequence i did was from the two side pulls :-  RH to sugar cube,  LH to shit slopey side pull, build feet up on poor footholds, then hard move to get a high poor crimp with RH, then a final hard stretch for a good hidden pocket with LH.

Hope that helps   

[north_country_boy]

Can anyone assist with the crux sequence on In Brine?     

We were on it today, and found real trouble in linking the moves from the two good side pulls at the 3rd bolt, into a poor crimp and then a slopey LH sidepull.  Poor feet. 

There is talk on previous forums of a sugar cube hold - what and where is this hold on the route?

The 'sugar clube' hold did indeed come off again in november last year. However, someone has its and is intending to stick it back on....watch this space....

[J_duds]

I look forward to the cubes return!  Hopefully it will make this move more possible!

I missed the hidden pocket, higher up after the poor crimp i was going for another small crimp RH and LH was going out to a different further away side pull, then with poor feet a hard move to a RH crimp and then to large side pull under the roof.  I need to get back on it!

Thanks for info.

[J_duds]

I haven't been to Raven Tor since July; does anyone know if the cube hold has returned to In Brine (or is it staying off)?  Hoping to get back there next week.

Thanks.

[chummer]

Dunno what the cube hold is but did this yesterday and it all seemed to flow without being too cruxy, I thought it was nicely sustained. I actually thought it was as good if not better than Sardine and around the same grade

[Ru]

Dunno what the cube hold is but did this yesterday and it all seemed to flow without being too cruxy, I thought it was nicely sustained. I actually thought it was as good if not better than Sardine and around the same grade

You're almost undoubtedly talking about a different route.

[J_duds]

I couldn’t see the cube/ matrix from the ground on Monday (although I have never seen it so it may not be visible from the ground!). 

Chummer – Perhaps the route is better without the hold!  I couldn’t comment as I have only tried it without and found the move to a small crimp (once the cube - i think?) and off the small crimp to slopey side pull was tough! 

[Jaspersharpe]

What Ru said.

[chummer]

 

Dunno what the cube hold is but did this yesterday and it all seemed to flow without being too cruxy, I thought it was nicely sustained. I actually thought it was as good if not better than Sardine and around the same grade

You're almost undoubtedly talking about a different route.

What a fuckin dick!  :whistle:I was of course talking of Tin Of, I'll get me coat..

[Doylo]

your such a cock jon

[chummer]

I know 

[account_inactive]

Just as well he has nothing to do with guide books....wait a minute......

[clgladiator]

i think the current guardian of the hold is returning to sheffield soon, so may see it on this year?

[richardr]

I had a look at this yesterday and struggled with the final hard move up to the jugs in the overlap. I had a poor 3 finger crimp for the right that I could barely pull on to get to the final jug. Is this where the hidden pocket comes in? It must be pretty well hidden!

Rich

[J_duds]

I had a look at this yesterday and struggled with the final hard move up to the jugs in the overlap. I had a poor 3 finger crimp for the right that I could barely pull on to get to the final jug. Is this where the hidden pocket comes in? It must be pretty well hidden!

Rich

I think it's still missing the cube hold, which is has left a very poor thin crimp - that is difficult to pull on!

Has anyone climbed this route since the cube hold departed?

Thanks
John

[Kingy]

I think Steve mac may have done but dont quote me on that. The hold should go back on if poss I reckon...

[J_duds]

The hold should go back on if poss I reckon...

If makes the route flow more than present then I'd agree to adding the hold back - but I havent climbed it or tried it with the hold in place so i cant comment!

Does anyone know if the missing hold is lost or broken beyond repair?

[north_country_boy]

The hold should go back on if poss I reckon...

If makes the route flow more than present then I'd agree to adding the hold back - but I havent climbed it or tried it with the hold in place so i cant comment!

Does anyone know if the missing hold is lost or broken beyond repair?

It was found when it came off, and kept safe, but it may now have been lost......

[richardr]

I've only just seen the replies to this, I screwed a finger up and been bumbling for months.

I had managed all the moves on In Brine before injury called off the siege. From the move where the cube was (I think) I get rh thin edge and bring left up into  the big side pull. RH up and out right to little crimp, sort feet and up to slopey crimpy hold. sort feet, LH goes to shit tiny pocket then LH go again to big pocket a long way up. It all works fine, the move off the thin crimp isn't the hardes tone for me either.

It doens't seem like a hold need to be stuck back on, the crux is about 3 or 4 moves at about 7A+ which should be about right for 8a I thought. I've never done one though so maybe I can't comment.