[jwi]

I've seen that Kammerlander uses crab-to-crab as extenders, but with lockers in lieu of non-locking carabiners. I assume to lower the risk of accidentally unclipping on big run-outs?

Example: https://youtu.be/DKjAbf3HQE4?t=142

[andy popp]

I was trying to remember when I first used something recognisably a quickdraw and I can't be sure. But of course it was already common to carry slings to extend runners and I'm sure my first quickdraws will have been longer slings (tied, not sewn) doubled over to QD length.

[mrjonathanr]

I'd say post '83 draws became common. I remember pics of Ron using 2 krabs on those E5s at Pen Trwyn like Mr Olympia around that time but everyone I saw after that used draws. By the time I was going to Malham (84/5 onwards) everyone used draws (and would go to Buoux at Easter and see how the French redpointed stuff).

I've seen that Kammerlander uses crab-to-crab as extenders, but with lockers in lieu of non-locking carabiners. I assume to lower the risk of accidentally unclipping on big run-outs?

Hence the 'metal to metal' advice I expect.

As an aside, that footage really showcases what a master Ron was/is on grit.

[highrepute]

I always thought the metal to metal advice was to do with peaks loads.

The tape adds a tiny bit of give into system that will drastically reduce the peak force on the gear during a fall.

Hence, the trick when removing stuck nuts of clipping two krabs (metal on metal) to the nut and yanking on that. Bigger peak load than same with a quickdraw.

[dunnyg]

I thought the main reason for metal to metal was bad was because it can produce sharp edges on biners, which in turn can do bad things to your rope if you later have the rope running over the sharp bits.

[Will Hunt]

I thought it was because the krabs twist and one krab twisting against another can easily push the gate open, resulting in the krab unclipping itself.

[Jerry Morefat]

I see. Thanks for the explanation.

Reading it back, the tone of my last post is ridiculously dry! 

Not as dry as my response! I think I was still in work mode last night. Hence my brevity. I was genuinely interested by your explanation though

Twisting sounds like the most plausible reason for not linking krabs to me. Although presumably the chances of gate opening can be mitigated by the use of locking bikers. However, is a twisting force more likely to lead to krab failure? I would have thought this is something which could be easily tested.

[Fiend]

If you're carrying a rack of doubled up locking biners to clip into gear.....I'd be interested to see the full reasoning for that 

[steveri]

I seem to remember we were convinced by the argument two crabs could twist against each other and open. My first 'quick draws' would have been short slings doubled over - '2 foot' slings?

[hansmaro]

Semi-quality featuring som classic Bohulän routes. Check out from 21.49, swedish lunatic Erik Grandelius doing the first ascent of an 8b, R/X

[jwi]

Great little video

Here's the route Grandelius climbs: https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,28774.msg565187.html

Grandelius is not a lunatic, just very good at climbing and maybe a little bit less in touch with his feelings than most.

[Fiend]

Nice, deffo semi-quality overall, but pure quality for the actual climbs, they all look ace. And yes good highlighting that route, pretty cool, with it's pre-placed combined-tactics bouldering mats and all!

[SA Chris]

On the Q/NQ cusp, not cutting edge, but great to see an ace looking route get done, warts and all. Don't watch if you want to ruin the onsight.

[Steve R]

Just saw this funny vid on youtube

[SA Chris]

Oh Shiiit moment

[andy popp]

Nick always had a theory that if a piece of gear needed to hold it, it would. That one obviously didn't need to.

[tomtom]

Good effort carrying on. I guess theres the 'what else could I do' point, but I''d have scuttled across to that big flake and cried mummy until someone sent me a rope down.

Which is why I don't do trad :D

[andy_e]

He looks totally unphased by it all!

[andy popp]

He looks totally unphased by it all!

I don't think I ever saw Nick get flustered.

[Fiend]

Didn't you point out he'd done an E9 a year for the last 30 years?? No wonder he's unflustered on an E7 6b headpoint, comedy gear or not!!

Would have been quite funny to have it hit the "spotter' tho.

[Johnny Brown]

That's great. Does make it look a lot like a bad sequence on Hairless, though that first move looks hard!

[duncan]

I didn’t recognise the climber initially so my first reaction was “oh shit...this could be messy”. Then I twigged who it was and relaxed.

[Duma]

Would have been quite funny to have it hit the "spotter' tho.

Think I used to have a pic of Dawes on my wall at the top of the very big and the very small wearing that blazer

[mark20]

Direct finish to Saucius Digitalis at Shining Clough a few weeks ago

[andy popp]

Looks good. I wish I'd spotted this.