[JackAus]

Mate doing his first 8b last winter.

http://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_EoVcsF7_gsaThvTEl1cWhJT0k

No idea why they uploaded it to google drive and not youtube or vimeo..... 

[Wood FT]

Just found some shaky clips from Kyrgyzstan on a hard drive and thought I should finally edit them together:

Having read your trip report I was expecting some hardship but fuck me that's an adventure, yikes! I take it you'll be going to Majorca instead for the next, say, 20 years?

[i_a_coops]

Just found some shaky clips from Kyrgyzstan on a hard drive and thought I should finally edit them together:

I take it you'll be going to Majorca instead for the next, say, 20 years?

I didn't even trad climb for about two years afterwards, it wasn't what you'd call a gentle introduction to bigwall expeditions. I definitely caught the bug though - I had a wonderfully grim time with a portaledge in the Brazilian jungle last year and I might even be going back to Kyrgyzstan this summer... 

[andy popp]

Have to say I really enjoyed the Kyrgyzstan film - a nice reminder of what climbing's all about.

[Wood FT]

The scenery looks mindblowing.

If you don't mind/can be arsed could you let me know the logistics of the trip? Feel free to post on here or on the 'long,hard,free' thread as it would be agreat resource to have.

[grimer]

Kyrgyz film is brilliant.

[slackline]

Lucky to only break his leg...

[r2d2]

Christ. Ouch.

[i_a_coops]

The scenery looks mindblowing.

If you don't mind/can be arsed could you let me know the logistics of the trip? Feel free to post on here or on the 'long,hard,free' thread as it would be agreat resource to have.

Hi Guy, logistics aren't too bad - you need to drive to a place called Vorukh (we got taxis), then there's about 45km uphill walk to get to the valley. A company called Ak Sai often have a base camp there for the season, you can buy camping gas from them and get them to cook you dinner, but you'll need to take provisions with you.

http://www.ak-sai.com/en/base-camps/karavshin

Actually if you pay Ak Sai lots of money they will helicopter you and your stuff in to the valley, if you pay them a small amount of money they will organise donkeys to carry your stuff for you. In our case, their donkeys never showed up and we had to hire donkeys from the local garrison instead.

I would strongly recommend taking someone who speaks passable Russian, as well as some bottles of decent vodka for bribes....

[Wood FT]

The scenery looks mindblowing.

If you don't mind/can be arsed could you let me know the logistics of the trip? Feel free to post on here or on the 'long,hard,free' thread as it would be agreat resource to have.

Cheers / Спасибо
Hi Guy, logistics aren't too bad - you need to drive to a place called Vorukh (we got taxis), then there's about 45km uphill walk to get to the valley. A company called Ak Sai often have a base camp there for the season, you can buy camping gas from them and get them to cook you dinner, but you'll need to take provisions with you.

http://www.ak-sai.com/en/base-camps/karavshin

Actually if you pay Ak Sai lots of money they will helicopter you and your stuff in to the valley, if you pay them a small amount of money they will organise donkeys to carry your stuff for you. In our case, their donkeys never showed up and we had to hire donkeys from the local garrison instead.

I would strongly recommend taking someone who speaks passable Russian, as well as some bottles of decent vodka for bribes....

[i_a_coops]

Cheers / Спасибо

The one sentence that I memorised was  'извините, у  меня нет денег - я альпинист' :D

[Wood FT]

Cheers / Спасибо

The one sentence that I memorised was  'извините, у  меня нет денег - я альпинист' :D

ha ha, in what context was that?

[i_a_coops]

Haggling with taxi drivers!

[willackers]

Rather happy to get this done before moving to Australia this June. Wasn't sure if it was going to happen. Feels a step up from the New Statesman, in terms of danger and difficulty. Not sure why Statesman has gone in the new guide at E9?!? 

[andyd]

That's a fine note to leave on. Top effort. What's drawing you over to Australia? Fish?

[tomtom]

Great work Will a tasty lobb and a brilliant victory paddy on top!

[lagerstarfish]

moving to Australia this June

give Rex Hunt a kiss from me

[Gus]

Good work fishminister!  Waddage tune!

[lagerstarfish]

  Waddage tune!

 

heck yeah

[willackers]

Haha, cheers, thought a few of you might like the tunage.

moving to Australia this June

give Rex Hunt a kiss from me

Definitely going to befriend Rex, but I can't go in for the kiss straight away, that'd be a bit weird........ 

[dave]

Nice one Will. For my money that's probably the best line on grit. Great effort by Robin back in the day.

[a dense loner]

What Dave said

[willackers]

 

Absolute belter of a line in a great location.

[Nike Air]

Great stuff Will, double rock 8s was it? 

That's a route you won't ever forget doing!

[willackers]

Great stuff Will, double rock 8s was it? 

That's a route you won't ever forget doing!

Cheers, I definitely won't be forgetting it in a hurry.

I used a rock 12 and a sideways 10, bomber placements, but I really wouldn't like to test the fall from any higher than I did