[Fiend]

Also...
What made Crisis Zone and Masterblaster Arete flashes rather than onsights?
What was the problem with Masterclass?
Was it bloody scary coming off On The Rocks given it was a near groundfall?

[SA Chris]

ok my first efforts at using a proper camera, the editing is bad but see what you think.

Good stuff. Also to note if you take the s off the end of http in vimeo urls the video will embed in ukb links.

[cowboyhat]

The video doesn't really do it justice; Masterblaster is a great line.

Good effort.

[mark20]

Neil showing the (lank) beta for Half Man Half Cake. Worthwhile micro route at Wyming Brook

[Nike Air]

I must have been in ceuse when you wrote this..

Also...
What made Crisis Zone and Masterblaster Arete flashes rather than onsights?
What was the problem with Masterclass?
Was it bloody scary coming off On The Rocks given it was a near groundfall?

Would have been nice to film up close but had to use a small tripod most of the time.
On CZ and MBA I got to watch Naomi top rope them.
 She cleaned Masterclass up for me and played on it without me watching so I could have an onsight go. I just could not commit and backed off. I thought I may as well throw a rope down and have a play but could not span the crux move using the available foot holds. Really morpho unfortunately. Im was rubbish.
It was pretty grim falling off OTR, I ripped out a fair bit of gear and came away lucky. That will teach me for setting off when it was boiling!! Nao refused to belay me again on it unless I practiced the move.
Macbeth is a real stunner, on of the hardest e6s about, the gear ain't that bomber looking either. 2.5cam in a sandy flared slot and a token small wire. I think something has come off for the left hand that you make the mono move to.

[Fiend]

Nice one beast. I like Naomi laying down the law for OTR, sounds sensible!

[mark20]

Too Old to be Bold - a surprisingly enjoyable route

[haydn jones]

Is stick clipping the second bolt the norm on Too Old to be Bold? Looked at it the other day and noped when i saw the gap between the first and second.

[mark20]

The first bolt is in a bit of state so we decided to stick clip the second, yeh. And the chossy runout to the belay didn't look too appealing so we just dropped off from the good holds in the break. Bit naff really, but that's Peak lime!

[dave]

we just dropped off from the good holds in the break. Bit naff really, but that's Peak lime!

To be fair to the route its better if you clip the bolts on lead and go to the belay. Otherwise yes it will feel like a badly rigged toproping session.

[Muenchener]

Courtesy of Andy Kirkpatrick's twitter feed.

"What's all the fuss about?"

[205Chris]

we just dropped off from the good holds in the break. Bit naff really, but that's Peak lime!

To be fair to the route its better if you clip the bolts on lead and go to the belay. Otherwise yes it will feel like a badly rigged toproping session.

To be fair to the route it probably deserves E3 6c if you go to the belay. Does it really add much going up a chossy gully?

I've seen far worse pre-clipping crimes on peak lime than that!

[dave]

I've seen far worse pre-clipping crimes on peak lime than that!

Is it possible pre-clip more than all the bolts on a route?

[205Chris]

I've seen far worse pre-clipping crimes on peak lime than that!

Is it possible pre-clip more than all the bolts on a route?

No, but it's possible to pre-clip more than 2 

[nai]

The first bolt is in a bit of state so we decided to stick clip the second, yeh. And the chossy runout to the belay didn't look too appealing so we just dropped off from the good holds in the break. Bit naff really, but that's Peak lime!

Could always use a long sling to extend the top bolt to somewhere near the level of the first, give the route a fighting chance.

[Nan]

More dodgy ethics from Mark in this.  Now ask him if he cares!  Sorry about the overexposure.

[Boredboy]

I like the vid, the music and tie dye make it, and to be fair the routes climbed in a better style than the normal top roping. Black Kabul next door is very onsightable tho.

[Danny]

I make no excuses, not for the driving / paddling to the crag section, nor for the sloppy, long-winded edit.

[gcarmichael]

Short video of a great route I did last night at Crunch Buttress.

[T_B]

Nice one - looks good. Are the holds particularly sharp on this, or just small?

[gcarmichael]

Cheers. Holds aren't too sharp, hardest bit is at the start with smallish holds and tenuous feet. Really good moves all the way!

[highrepute]

loving your 8a.poo pyramid. You should take 7b for brachiation to keep things neat.

[nik at work]

Are there any bolts to clip on that?? What's Crunch Buttress like? I've never been but was thinking of trying to encourage the family there this weekend. Is the base of the crag child friendly?

[Fiend]

Nice, can you bivy in the finishing cave?

Makes me miss Peak Limestone, it actually has some appeal in this stupid warm weather.

[gcarmichael]

Haha yeh it's pretty far from being a pyramid at the moment!

Yeh there's only 4 bolts and the lower off on the route but I skip the last one as you have to extend it so much theres little point in using it. Yeh it's really nice there, stays in shade most of day. Base of crag would be fine for kids, walk down to it is a bit steep but not too bad. Definitely worth a look, lots at moat buttress as well which is just a minute further down the dale.

Yeh looks like you could, its a very big ledge up there. Yeh its a cool spot!