* However, ballistic stretching was being strongly advocated by Dave Binney at a BMC Youth Climbing event I went to on Saturday.
Quote from: shark on July 19, 2010, 10:13:16 am* However, ballistic stretching was being strongly advocated by Dave Binney at a BMC Youth Climbing event I went to on Saturday.Ballistic or dynamic? I've never heard anyone recommend ballistic stretching, it's generally considered quite dangerous.Have opinions changed (again)?
Its worth having a chat with someone who really knows their stuff in this area as learning good form and finding out whats right for you is very important. The one thing I did learn is while your back is painful/weak, you should avoid any exercise that involves holding both legs in a straightened position (straight leg raises, levers, L-hangs etc) as these place alot of strain on the lower back. Stick to doing them with knees bent. I'm not saying it'll do anything for your climbing but it may well stop your back hurting which is what I thought you were looking for in the OP.
Quote from: Lund on July 18, 2010, 10:35:24 am The climbing walls round here are full of punters trying to put their leg behind their ear. Some of the chicks are really hot, and it's getting to the point where I can't climb sport without a bird at the base of the route standing on her head. Fact is though, they DO climb like shit. All of them. I don't know a single decent climber who does yoga.Which climbing walls are these?. Static resistance type stretching* before climbing has been shown to decrease strength performance. I can't ever recall anyone doing yoga stretches at the Foundry before or after except for ones that have obvoiusly part of some corrective physio advice. Is this at the London walls by any chance ? Maybe its some show-off thing going on as in - I can't climb well but I can attract attention doing the splits ? A good climber who did yoga might not feel the same urge. * However, ballistic stretching was being strongly advocated by Dave Binney at a BMC Youth Climbing event I went to on Saturday.
The climbing walls round here are full of punters trying to put their leg behind their ear. Some of the chicks are really hot, and it's getting to the point where I can't climb sport without a bird at the base of the route standing on her head. Fact is though, they DO climb like shit. All of them. I don't know a single decent climber who does yoga.
Yeah its london. I've read papers on stretching, but not related to climbing. But I'm guessing that I've blown any chance to say anything else on this subject. ("Just my fucking opinion, what you gonna do about it" seems to have got me puntered. ) Oh well. Welcome to the internet!
Anyway thanks for the prompt - I've booked in for my 7.30am class tomorrow.
Jeez, get over yourself. The climbing walls round here are full of punters trying to put their leg behind their ear. Some of the chicks are really hot, and it's getting to the point where I can't climb sport without a bird at the base of the route standing on her head. Fact is though, they DO climb like shit. All of them. I don't know a single decent climber who does yoga.That doesn't mean there aren't any, but it strongly suggests that those that do probably aren't good because of the yoga. So they'd be better off doing something else. Unless it gives them zen powers or some shit which I guess you have to be a true yogi to get, right?I guess you do yoga. Why? Why did you choose that? Did you honestly honestly think about how it would help your climbing - or did you just drift into it because everyone said so? Or is it nothing to do with your climbing, and you just do it because you like it? That's cool, no problem with that. What I've a problem with is that yoga is good cross training for climbing, because from what I can see, it isn't.
Quote from: Lund on July 18, 2010, 10:35:24 amJSo do you supplement your bouldering with other forms of strength training?Definitely. I do deadhangs, campusing, locking holds to the neck and 1-armers on a bar or an edge (although the 1-armers are mainly for a tune-up at the start of a session). I also do a few system style problems such as body tension moves at full stretch or front-on with my feet splayed out, or climbing with a weight-belt. I don't do much isometric (static) work but I would do if I was training for a specific move again like I did for Hubble. I still use weights but for overall body strength rather than climbing strength - I only do compound movements like clean & jerk, deadlift, benchpress, upright row & shoulder press. I'd also use a Bachar ladders if I had one at the moment! I also do an hour of yoga at the end of the day - it really loosens you off and helps you relax and recover mentally as well as physically.The crucial thing there though is that he also does deadhangs, campussing, locking, 1 armers, and system problems with a weight belt. I suspect it's that which has helped him climb 9a, a lot more than the yoga. I'm sure yoga isn't detrimental to climbing, but I reckon most folks efforts would be better applied elsewhere. Unless of course like someone else said, it's just cos they like yoga.
JSo do you supplement your bouldering with other forms of strength training?Definitely. I do deadhangs, campusing, locking holds to the neck and 1-armers on a bar or an edge (although the 1-armers are mainly for a tune-up at the start of a session). I also do a few system style problems such as body tension moves at full stretch or front-on with my feet splayed out, or climbing with a weight-belt. I don't do much isometric (static) work but I would do if I was training for a specific move again like I did for Hubble. I still use weights but for overall body strength rather than climbing strength - I only do compound movements like clean & jerk, deadlift, benchpress, upright row & shoulder press. I'd also use a Bachar ladders if I had one at the moment! I also do an hour of yoga at the end of the day - it really loosens you off and helps you relax and recover mentally as well as physically.
I think most people agree that yoga should be a supplement, not a substitute.
Quote from: shark on July 17, 2010, 08:08:47 pm Core strength: I'd say yoga was a pretty weak option for this. There are only a few positions that are any good; why spend ages trying to put your knees by your ears when you should be experiencing abdominal pain? Try this instead: http://www.dragondoor.com/articler/mode3/229/ for example. If you really must give someone else money, go to a pilates class. And for chrissakes, stop doing situps.Muscle imbalances? I can't see yoga helping for this either. We spend forever using the back, core, forearms, biceps... so any muscle imbalances e.g. in the triceps - are going to need work at some point yes. I can't see how yoga is going to compensate for that though; if there is a real imbalance that really needs sorting I probably need to do something a lot more muscle intense, like the weight room, or getting a theraband or something.
The crucial thing there though is that he also does deadhangs, campussing, locking, 1 armers, and system problems with a weight belt. I suspect it's that which has helped him climb 9a, a lot more than the yoga. I'm sure yoga isn't detrimental to climbing, but I reckon most folks efforts would be better applied elsewhere.
My theory: they start crap, see loads of fancy pants people doing yoga, and spend time they need to be climbing and training doing yoga instead of climbing and training.
Whats the problem with situps?
Got any of those wonderful link things that take people to said articles you are referring to so others can read and judge for themselves the quality of the research and advice?
