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Highs and Lows
10 February 2010, 8:20 pm

Well after the high of Monday day I then spent Monday night and Tuesday morning in the low grasp of puke and pooh. Oh joy.

The rest of Tuesday was spent feeling shaky and weak, and this morning I felt much the same. Fancying a bit of fresh air I thought of heading back to the Steeps to get some photos with a view to putting a topo together. But then G-lah had an unexpected afternoon of freedom so I offered to hold a rope for him while he cleaned up a project highball line in some esoteric quarry. The line is now clean and I think G will ice it quick sticks. A nice problem in the making.

Feel very weak and tired again now, is this what it's like to be old??

Source: Notes on an objective

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Peak performance
20 February 2010, 10:02 pm

Since last posting I have been to Wet Pooh with G-lah and Pasty, which was nice. I've done a bit of crag based DIY, which appears to have been successful. And I've extended the board with a significant increase in the size of the 10 degree board, bonza.

Today I met Slopes and a motley assortment of reprobates at Cratcliffe. We had a pretty gentle day of Malt Loaf eating and shit talking interspersed with fits of climbing. I wasn't running high on SYKE for anything in particular, which made for a refreshing change. There was no sieging to be done today, a handful of attempts then move on (or more likely sit around for a bit). Anyway had a couple of goes at T-crack but didn't do the last move but walked on before getting heavily involved. Did a 7A traverse on the top of Cratcliffe. Did the right-hand roof problem in the cave at RHS, didn't do the left-hand line. Did Jerry's Arete. Then discussed the left-hand cave line with somebody and it became apparent that I was staying too far left. This rekindled a bit of curiousity so I trundled back up there and made a fresh attempt. I stuck to my "too far left" line and did it using a wild slap. A nice low key day, finished off with a lemonade in the pub - wild!

Source: Notes on an objective

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Drip, drip, drip.
23 February 2010, 12:38 pm

Went to Warton with G-lah yesterday. It was pretty dry but there is a tree growing out of the break above the lip of Poison/E-fix and it was dripping on the lip holds. Also the slot at the start of E-fix was wet. And there were a few wet patches and streaks on the traverse into the start of E-fix. So actually it wasn't pretty dry it would seem. Anyway I tried Ebeneezer Goode and didn't do it. I know I can do this,but I'm just not. Yesterday it might have been because it was damp or because I was feeling a bit shit, or a combination of the two. But whatever, failure reigned once again. I did actually feel rubbish yesterday, my back felt sore, my skin was thin and rapidly became very painful and on the walk up the hill I felt tired and wanted to stop. Not a great sign. Oh well, next time (perhaps...)

Anyway G was looking pretty beasty on Poison, he's getting the moves like a good 'un now. I reckon the crush will occur in the near future. Especially given the shit conditions.

The we went to Trowbarrow where the shelter stone was also pretty dry whilst at the same time having some wet holds. I did nothing, G did much the same. Home time.

Source: Notes on an objective

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Broken Resolutions
3 March 2010, 10:21 pm

It seems like, since I last blogged, huge swathes of time have been spent looking at a wet hold at the start of E-fix. Then trying Ebeneezer Goode despite knowing that said wet hold renders the problem unclimbable. Frustrating.

Having said that, I have also returned to Mytholm (host to previous adventures in DIY) and completed a new dyno there. Flight Path, 7C+. An ascent which I failed to video. G-bob has berated me for my video based forgetfulness and I have henceforth resolved to indulge in the filmic arts whilst climbing in a most reliable fashion, but more of this later...

I've also watched G-lah grow into an almost 7C crushing machine, there are now three or four 7C's out there that he can and will crush, just remember there is no spoon...

Anyway today I was back looking at a familiar damp hold, but this time with the Guru. A single attempt on Ebeneezer and I was convinced of its unviability. So instead I climbed (and entirely failed to film) the Ebeneezer start into Poison, huzzah. Probably 7C+ ish? I compensated for this failure at the first hurdle of my resolution to gather more footage by capturing in glorious technicolour the Guru effortlessly floating up Poison.

Now repeat after me, the camera is in the bag, the camera is in the bag, the camera is in the bag...

Source: Notes on an objective

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Bleau Job
12 April 2010, 7:08 pm

Shit a brisk is it really five weeks since I last wrote anything? Oh well pre Font preparations continued a pace until the week before Font when it all went a bit pear-esque. I hurt my left knee and my back and was busy at work and ended up heading off feeling a bit stressed and hassled and not confident of CRUSH. Anyway my E key is only working intermittently right now so I won't go into a warts and all epic (although that may follow at some point in the future) instead I'll simply give you the ticklist (with grades cos I'm an egomaniac loon). The more observant of you will notice an 8A (or two if you believe everything you read in guidebooks) was ticked, yay.

Anyway here's the 7 & 8 list:

La Grande Petit Marche* (7A+)

Saut De Puce (8A)

Magic Bus* (7B+)

Egoiste (7A/6C+)

Coccinelle (8A)

Carnage* (7B+)

Le Sectaire (7B)

Je Broie Du Noir (7B)

Beetle Juice (7A+)

Le Mouton A 6 Pattes (7A)

*repeats, have done them on previous year(s), or in the case of Carnage I did the sitter last year.

I may have missed something out as it is from memory and the grades are just lifted out of the guidebook, I have an opinion which may or may not vary from this. Definitely my best Font performance by a lonnnnnnnng way. So happy days. But this E button is cocking me off now so further musings will have to wait...

Source: Notes on an objective

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Thursday 1st April
13 April 2010, 1:59 pm

We stopped off on the way down to Font at a Formule 1/"grim prison block of misery and doom" nears Lens so the morning was spent completing the drive down to Font and checking in to the hotel. T'was a little showery on arrival but the afternoon looked promising so we headed out to Sabot. I messed around with Lard while her ladyship had a clamber. Whilst wandering amongst the boulders I happened across Andy Jennings and lady, I meet this guy every year in Font. Then Doblah and the delightful Doblah-ess appeared. A spanking at the hands of the Dob was too tempting so boots were donned and CRUSH mode was definitely not engaged. An inauspicious start to the "lets show those Frenchies how to climb 2010" trip. Luckily the day was saved by a pizza at Chez Guy, that man's a loon.

Source: Notes on an objective

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Friday 2nd April
14 April 2010, 9:37 am

Another grey day greated us as we rose from a pleasant nights sleep in the Ibis. We trudged through a damp Font to get some pastries and then formulated a plan, and that plan was to go for a coffee and see what happens. Thinking was that Canche would be a good bet as it's quick drying, short walk-in, child friendly and the Boss likes it. As she had to head back to the drudge of real life on Monday it was only fair that she got venue choice for the first few days. There wasn't much I fancied doing there but I figured a few warm up problems to get the SYKE rising for the arrival of team CRUSH tomorrow. Anyway after a slow coffee in Milly things looked a bit perkier so we headed to Canche. On arrival things were soggy but drying and there was a decent breeze. Boss decided it was all to damp for her to climb for the next half hour or so, giving me a window of clamber. The hunt for dry rock didn't go especially well with the only thing dry(ish) being La Puce, hardly a warm up. So I tried to do La Marche the 7A to the right of La Puce. It was dripping wet but has pretty positive holds so I figured it might be possible. I surprised myself by doing it first attempt and it felt pretty easy despite the running water. Maybe thing weren't as bad as yesterdays performance suggested. Anyway then I did the last moves of La Puce. A pretty easy mantle but not something you'd want to mess up if you did latch the dyno move. And then a few throws at the dyno with a few different foothold configurations. I got the feet positions I was happiest with the Mrs Keeg decidied the time had come for her to get BEASTY with it. After she'd done a few problems it started to shower so we messed around for a bit, then as things dried I'd try La Puce then she'd do a bit, then another shower, repeat a couple of times and bang I hit the hold but don't quite hit it so swing off. Next go I hit it and hold it, stick the high foot on the damp hold and mantle to glory. Very happy.

Then it's the bosses turn again, she gets ready and the heavens open with the mother of all hailstorms. Yowzers, we cower under rocks then bail back to Font for a Chinese, livin' the dream.

Font 8A on the first full day, when conditions are variable to say the least. Not expecting that.

Buthiers tomorrow and the arrival of team BURL.

Source: Notes on an objective

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Saturday 3rd April
15 April 2010, 8:03 am

This morning we had various bits and pieces to do as we were moving from the hotel to Maisonbleau. Inbetween sorting this out we visited Buthiers where I briefly tried Coccinelle. This is a hangover from last year and I was keen to get it CRUSHED. Th trouble was a couple of the holds near the start (which is also the crux) were very damp and the finishing holds were pretty much wet. I managed to do all the moves in isolation pretty much straight off but linking it was not going to happen until it was a bit drier.

Anyway we got checked in to Maisonbleau (very nice) and started getting food ready for the troops arrival. The weather deteriorated so the plan to meet everyone at Buthiers was shelved and instead we met up at the gite. However once all had gathered it had cleared again and the boys were keen for a blast on Magic Bus so we jetted off down to Buthiers for a quick play. I did this problem last year but all of the other members of the boys team were keen for it this year. I did a demonstration showboat ascent,look at me, then got shut down by the left hand variant. The same grade? O'RLY?? Rick did it in pretty short order, half a dozen goes or so, look at him. Mike and G-lah made progress but it wasn't to be, either on this day or subsequently in the holiday. They can both crush it though, next year (or in the Autumn)...

I then jetted off to make pizza for 5 million hungry travellers.

Source: Notes on an objective

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Sunday 4th April
15 April 2010, 11:58 am

Went to Apremont. Was a bit rainy. Did Egoiste, Mike flashed it after a tactical hang back and watch approach. Failed to do somthing else (Envi D'oile???), then it rained. We might have gone somewhere else, I can't remember.

In the evening I skipped the start of group dinner and dashed to Buthiers in the hop that Coccinelle was dry. It wasn't but it was dry enough and after sliding off on my first attempt it was in the bag go two. Managed to get back to Maisonbleau before the others had finished theirmain course.

Source: Notes on an objective

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Monday 5th April
15 April 2010, 12:04 pm

The morning was spent at Cuvier as I needed to drop the trouble and strife off at Melun train station at lunchtime. G-lah and Mike were keen for Carnage, for about 5 minutes then they stumbled off muttering. Meestah Rick fancied a blast on Berezina, so I did too. It didn't go well.

Rick toddled off somewhere so I consoled myself with a 'flash' of Carnage having done the sitter last year. Then off to the train station.

In the afternoon the ladies climbed at Sablons. Then after dinner the menfolk headed back to Buthiers. Mike and G-pony went back to flounce at Magic Bus and Mestah Rick and I tried Mongolito which was wet, so we tried Dark Room which was wet (and felt a bit tough for 7A+) and finally we ended up at Coccinelle where I went for a repeat for the camera but dropped it at end. Was a bit academic anyway as the camera battery died mid-attempt.

Source: Notes on an objective

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Tuesday 6th April
15 April 2010, 12:13 pm

G-dawg and famile went to have their wallets emptied at EuroHowfuckinmuch??? The rest of the team had a day trip to Beauvais. There was a lot of jaded-ness and SYKE was running low. Tried L'epee De Sable, did the moves but was in no state to link it,feeling rather battered truth be told. Did a couple of 7B's which are a pair of variations on a white (number 7 maybe?). They were a bit rubbish to be honest.

Not a classic.

Source: Notes on an objective

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Wednesday 7th April
19 April 2010, 9:19 am

Ate a lot of pastries but didn't do anything else really. Went to Potala which was a nice spot then in the evening fell from the top of Attention Chef D'ouvre at Buthiers with very sore skin and low SYKE. As the trip nears it's end I am feeling increasingly weary and sore. Not an impressive day at all. No 7's shocker!!

Source: Notes on an objective

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Thursday 8th April
19 April 2010, 9:23 am

It was raining this morning so we went for a group coffee in Milly where we met Baz, Jay and the SYKE-o-saurus. The team wanted to head to Sabot once the rain cleared but I persuaded Rick that a quick detour to look at Fata Morgana was in order. I literally just wanted to look at it as I was battered and it was a humid hot day and it had just stopped raining. Anyway we walked up to it and it looked very appealing so I thought I'd stick my boots on and have a quick throw for the pocket. The starting holds were grimness feeling very damp but even so my first attempt was just below the pocket. I had two more goes and was ticklling the hold, excellent. Then Rick boosted me up to the pocket and I tried the top which was steady away. This is now game on top of the list for next year, just need to persuade other people they want to go to Long Vaux.

Then on to Sabot where I talked shite with numerous luminaries of the Brit scene and climbed not a jot. Another day with no 7 tick, tragedy. Although it doesn't feel bad as the Fata knowledge was gleaned for implementation next year.

Source: Notes on an objective

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Friday 9th April
19 April 2010, 9:30 am

Last day. We called in to Bouligny so I could try Beaux Quartiers which I floundered on horribly. Conditions were less than ideal, I was very tired and my left knee was bleurgh so I couldn't pull on the left heel hook for the first move. Not impressive. I still think I can do this, but maybe not after a week or so of climbing...

Then we went to Cuisinierre. I've never been here before apart from one 5 minute look at Duel. It was really nice. PAIN was high though and SYKE was low so I promised myself I'd only try steep 7A/+ type stuff with big holds. To that end I went for Beetlejuice which went down second go and Le Mouton à 6 Pattes which also went down second go (and got a full team tick) but involved a left heel hook which totalled my left knee, arse.

Then we went to Apremont for a coffee. Most team memebers went home at this point but G-lah wanted to further torture his family by making them walk to Medallie En Chocolat. I went along to watch the fun. It was sizzling in the blazing afternoon sun and G-bob was a tired fat lankster so CRUSH mode was not engaged.

I should also mention that G got up at 6:00 in the morning and raced out to Sabot for a pre-brekkie CRUSh of Jet Set, now that is showing those Frenchies how to climb, go beast.

Anyway had a great trip with some very pleasing ticks, including the elusive 8. Things tailed off towards the end but that's hardly surprising. The big disappointment is the complete lack of video footage this year. Next year I'm going to video/photograph everything, when you get to my age you need footage as a memory aid.

Oh finally I forgot to mention that after my wife had met Dob-lah she expressed the opinion that he reminded her very much of an excitable puppy. An accurate description I feel.

Now to start on next years to-do list...

Source: Notes on an objective

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Tis The Season To Clip Up.
20 April 2010, 4:38 pm

Back from Font with a goal ticked it's time to move on to the summer objectives. These being somewhat unchanged from last years brief forays into the wacky world of sport climbing. So a sport 8 is required to complete the triumvirate. To add a bit of spice and impetus to proceedings I have foolishly set the goal of ticking a sport 8 this month (i.e. by the end of next week!). Meaning that both a Font 8 and a sport 8 will be ticked in a single month. These silly goals and aspirations are nice little waypoints that I can (fail to?) reach as I head towards an ultimate goal.

Anyway the sport started with a trip out with the Guru. A revisit of a couple of new route projects started last year. One is in the 8a+/b ballpark and the other is likely to yield no change from 8b+, so neither is particularly suited to a quick "tick this month" ascent for a man of my meagre means. Anyway I feel as though good progress has been made with a couple of nice links starting to emerge. There are these two projects and one other project line (about 8b) to finish off from last year and to get one of them would be great. I won't say I'm confident, but to get some links going so early in the season is at least encouraging.

Then today I visited Malham again with the Guru. The aim was Raindogs. I had three top-ropes of the line. The first one I struggled with one move but did all the other moves in a go or two. Second time up I got a sequence for the tough move, but got footwork messed up so no significant links and found another move tricky. Third go I linked from the ground to the first tricky move, then worked out a better sequence for that move, then went up to the top(ish) in three or four sections. For some reason I was really struggling to remember my foot sequences, and remembering sequences is usually a pretty strong part of my game. Oh well, at the time I felt a bit disappointed with my performance but with retrospect I've realised I haven't even had a go with a properly worked sequence yet so I think a bit more refinement (and a bit more fitness) and it will go.

The Guru seemed to hit a sequence pretty quickly and after two top-ropes working it he cleanly top-roped twice. He's got it in the bag. Especially as it was in the blazing sun and warm and sweaty. A bit of shade and cool and it will feel easier (for both of us I hope).

So I'm still really enjoying the sport climbing and I'm confident an 8 will go down this season and I'm hopeful for something a bit more than 8a. Bring on the b :O)

Source: Notes on an objective

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Fuck Fuck Fuck
22 April 2010, 1:36 pm

Fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuckity fuck.

The promising start to the sport season is looking to be short lived. Right hand middle finger has developed pain, quite a lot of pain. Oh well, heading to Kilnsey tomorrow, lets see how the finger holds up...

Source: Notes on an objective

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Significant Moments.
26 April 2010, 1:49 pm

Significant moments occur in all our lives. If we're lucky we realise that such a moment is coming, we prepare, anticipate, plan beforehand and then act in the "best" way we can. Other times the moment passes and hindsight allows us only a view of the moments significance, but no ability to change the course. Both of these situations will happen numerous times in anybody's life.

But then sometimes you catch the moment, you don't see it approach but it's there in front of you. Quick decisive action is required, there is seldom a right or wrong answer just different outcomes for different choices.

This morning was grey and damp. I choose to stay at home and work rather than hunt for dry rock with G. As lunchtime approaches the weather is improving but still overcast so nice and cool. I choose to forgo lunch and head out for a lunch-break session on the rock. I choose to not go bouldering, the obvious choice, but instead go to look at a local trad route. I get there and all is dry, there's a good breeze and the rock feels nice and cool. I had planned to put a rope on the line and work it, it is that kind of a route. But there is small amount of chalk on the first two holds, I follow the line up with my eyes, but the chalk goes no further. But those few specks of chalk are suggestive, a choice now needs to be made. Mentally flip the coin and then start to put my boots on. Tie on the chalk bag, fill it up, chalk the hands then set off. Up a few moves. I'm at a positive sidepull, my feet are good. I could jump off from here, it might be a bit sore but I could walk home with the dog and make some lunch. I look up, the holds are there, can see them, I can see the sequence. Half a dozen moves or jump off. Questions, will my fingers fit in the mono's? Will that foot stick? Will I reach the next hold? I look back down, maybe 15 seconds have passed, eyes back up. Go through the sequence in my head, it will work, a few more seconds, breathe chalk tenuous move to undercut,feet up, mono, mono, mono, crimp, it feels sandy, brush hand on jeans, chalk, crimp, better, compose, breathe, feet up, stand up reach, good hold, no it's not that good, feet up, compose, breathe, reach, big hold, head on rock, deep breaths. Relax, pull to top, sit down. And then the dog starts crying.

Oh yeah, went to Kilnsey on Friday and made decent progress on a project, back there tomorrow for more.

Source: Notes on an objective

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Plans, Schemes, Objectives...
29 April 2010, 9:16 pm

There were plans in place for this week. A list (albeit quite short) of things to be done. There were a couple of targets, silly little milestones to be reached. Or not. A combination of factors (limited time, the weather, my abilities) have conspired to make it unlikely that said targets will be realised. The targets will be realised ultimately, of that I'm sure, but the self-imposed time limit on the scheme will almost certainly not be met.

Hopefully my next posting will be a positive report...

Source: Notes on an objective

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Busy failing.
4 May 2010, 7:51 pm

Had a couple of sessions at Kilnsey last week working a project and started getting some decent links together. Which was nice. I'd been kind of hoping to get it crushed but realistically that wasn't going to happen, I'm chronically unfit with respect to sport climbing even for bouldery routes. Fuck knows how shameful the performance would be on a proper stamina plod.

Then Friday evening I headed up to Silverdale with G-bob. I did Crushinator, a problem that G dispatched a couple of days earlier. Then tried a few other problems in the fading light, things to come back to (wow that list is getting long...)

Today back to Kilnsey, another couple of red-points on the project. I still lack the fitness for this, and I also don't have the ability to recover on a "rest". I'm hoping with a bit more effort these improvements will come but stamina (along with flexibility) has always been a very weak part of my game. Anyway it's starting to feel easier so I think it will go soon(ish), as long as I don't get bored and disheartened by failure. Maybe time to try another route/project and come back to this in a week or so? Anyway the Guru crushed it on his second redpoint of the day, bon effort.

Source: Notes on an objective

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Aim High
10 May 2010, 9:46 am

Friday was another sport session. A different venue and a different project but much the same outcome as Kilnsey. Links were made, things are feeling easier but the finish line is still somewhere in the distance. This project is probably the hardest "active" project I have going. Obviously there are other lines I've seen but I'm yet to get on which will be harder but they are currently pie in the sky. Mind you so is this right now, I am not going to climb this route on my next session, it's too hard. For me it's very hard. But that's good. Not because it will be x-grade (although it is easy to see the attraction in that also) but because it's a challenge. Climbing is a total "because it's there" game, there is no higher point or purpose, it is purely about personal satisfaction. So to all those who go out and strive to push themselves harder and further, regardless of where on an arbritary scale your challenge lies, I salute you.

To that end on Sunday I went to Jumbles with G-lah and Captain Convenient Forecourt Lunch Option. This place is filthy dirty and largely falling down but holds a couple of gems in the Lancashire sense of the word ;O). Here there is a modern classic by the name of Clowns Pocket, it's nice moves on good rock, low enough to boulder but high enough to feel spicy. Pasty has been trying this line and on Sunday (with a post stag do hangover) he was looking good. In the end he had several nearly goes but finished with an impressive backward exploding dismount from the last move. I think a slight tweak to his postioning for this move and he'll rinse it. He fully went for it, something I approve of heartily.

Sadly my spotting was less worthy of note. I apologise Pasty, I hope you're not too sore today...

Source: Notes on an objective

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Lets get objective
18 May 2010, 10:31 am

This blog started back in the dim and distant past as a record of my efforts to reach a particular objective, that being to tick a Font 8A problem in the forest. Hence the title, Notes on an Objective, see? Anyway said objective was ticked at the start of April in my annual Easter trip to Font. So I guess new objectives need putting in place. In keeping with tradition this objective will be simply grade based, however to reflect my broadened interest in the church of climbing there will now be two goals. The aim is to get both by the end of the year.

1) A Font 8B boulder problem

2) A sport 8b+ route

Both feel a way off right now but the year is still quite young so time will tell.

As an additional goal, given that an Autumn Font trip is looking likely, I'd like to tick another 8A in the forest before the year is out.

Anyway 'tis the season to be sporty so time to get clipping.

Source: Notes on an objective

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First route of the year.
25 May 2010, 8:07 pm

Today I did my first route of the year. I've spent muchos time working projects without actually ticking (or indeed trying) anything at a slightly more rapidly achievable level. Which is fine, but it's nice to actually get a tick for all the effort expended thus far.

Anyway last week I spent a day mostly avoiding climbing by indulging in an epic bolting job for a new (probably very hard) line. But I did also venture to Trollers Gill where I had one quick toprope of Smouldering Globules Of Lust (previously of 7b+ fame but recently upgraded to 7c). Then on Sunday I found myself at Trollers once again. This time I managed to avoid climbing for most of the day by indulging in daddy daycare activities. However as a warm-up/main event/warm-down all in one combo I had a redpoint of Smouldering. It was all going swimmingly until I fluffed up a reachy clip. My mojo was blow-joed and I fell off the next move after spending an inordinate amount of time on the clip. Bah, oh well.

Today I was once again at Trollers, again the warm-up was a redpoint on Smouldering. This time it all went pretty easily, hell I was even putting the clips in on the top half, get me. Anyway on paper it sounds a bit naff, 7c in three sessions. But the reality is it's gone in three attempts (not counting a very brief failure at the start with a bogus sequence some time last year). Reasonably happy with that.

Also worked a new sequence on The Tinderbox, Andy's new route from last year. It has recently lost a hold on the crux so needed a new approach and I got a workable method and had a couple of redpoint attempts but weepy skin coupled with poor conditions meant no dice. This was originally given 7c+ but I think it is now going to be 8a. In fact I think it probably always was 8a but what do I know? When it comes to sport grades almost certainly not enough...

Source: Notes on an objective

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A Bit of Nookie
14 June 2010, 12:18 pm

The week before last I went to Newbiggin with G and G, had a pleasant enough time but...

Well it isn't Font is it?

Anyway later in the week, after tales of Cornice dryness, a day pass was utilised to visit Cheedale with the Guru. Powerplant was the first port of call. Guru worked it our pretty easily, I struggled with the crux move. The Guru then had a successful redpoint and I worked it a bit more. It's getting there but is too long for my current state of fitness.

I then ventured round the corner to the Nook. Now this is more like it, short hard bouldery routes. Sadly also filthy, I had a play/clean on Lockless and unlocked the moves. After a rest I had a very poor redpoint attempt but to be fair the route was still filthy and it was getting pretty dark at this point. I think to do Powerplant I need to work it again and get fitter and to do Lockless I need to clean it and it needs to be light.

Source: Notes on an objective

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TT Week...
14 June 2010, 12:28 pm

Was spent on the Isle of Man building a patio for the in-laws. However I managed to get out a few times.

Sunday, went out tradding and did half a dozen short routes all around the E4 mark. T'was nice to have a good day on trad after so long without doing it (notwithstanding the odd rare solo).

Tuesday went to a sport crag and tried a very wet 7C. The approach for this crag is epic and leaves you on a small ledge of to the left side of the crag  20 foot above the sea. The route heads out steeply right above the sea round the lip of a cave before heading up a steep headwall to finish up a groove, about 35-40 metres all told. A bit long for me, but it was very good (albeit in awful condition). There is also potential for several more routes here up to very hard grades. Keen to return.

Wednesday went to a training traverse which has been discovered. The traverse is about 7b+, but there is potential for a couple of low eliminate variations in the 8-something ballpark which I worked on.

Friday back to Sundays trad venue, and I was rubbish. Feeling a bit tired I think. Cleaned up a new line but the rock quality wasn't up to getting on the sharp end.

Also watched a bit of the races, it's hard to put into words just how fast the bikes are in the flesh (much faster than it appears on the TV). Brave, mad or stupid? Hard to say...

Source: Notes on an objective

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Turning up the heat.
2 July 2010, 12:00 pm

Crivens it's got warm! Since returning from the Isle of Man work has featured to a disappointingly large extent in my life however I have continued my somewhat unsuccessful sport climbing exploits with a smattering of bouldering. I've made a couple of trips to Kilnsey working a project but the weather has done me little favour. My window of free time is generally restricted to a few hours around midday, which is also the hottest part of the day.

This oppressive heat has been somewhat demotivating, to the extent that I'm considering bagging off trying the sport for a couple of months until conditions cool and instead trying to get some stamina, endurance, PE and power through other means...

Of course if I get an evening/early morning of freedom I'll sling the rope in the van and head for the bolted steepness.

Also visited Woodwell with G-lah. Had a dabble on Art Of Self Destruction and with a bit of G-guidance it started to feel like a goer instead of being deeply impossible. Nothing else of note happened on a bouldering tip but we went to the Wolf House for a cream tea post lacklustre performance (not that we deserved it) and they had sold out of scones!! Totally ruined my day I can tell you.

I'm now sat watching the tennis feeling somewhat sub-par, my wife (a teacher) has been kind enough to transmit some germs from one of her grubby little darlings as a little challenge for my old mans immune system. I imagine I won't make it through the night...

Source: Notes on an objective