[Bonjoy]

Have you considered using The Maximum as a training route? Same length (it being the route next door!), similar burly climbing and crux (easier obviously), plus it looks from your UKC log like you haven't done it. I think at tough bouldery 7c+ it would fit the job very well. The time it takes to redpoint will give you good info on how far off the level you need for the oak you are. Once redpointed you could attempt to do it multiple times in a session, w/wo set intervals.

[davej]

Not an expert on sports psychology but it sounds like a head problem.Having watched the vid it obvious you can do it.

[Adam Lincoln]

I thought the traverse back left just after the bit you fell off in the video was the crux. Horses for courses i guess. Bonjoy's suggestion of doing The Maximum is a good one. Will give you some success, and also act as training for a very similar move.

[shark]

Have you considered using The Maximum as a training route? Same length (it being the route next door!), similar burly climbing and crux (easier obviously), plus it looks from your UKC log like you haven't done it. I think at tough bouldery 7c+ it would fit the job very well. The time it takes to redpoint will give you good info on how far off the level you need for the oak you are. Once redpointed you could attempt to do it multiple times in a session, w/wo set intervals.

It is a thought but funnily enough I had the opposite view that if I did the Oak I might be strong enough to do the Maximum!

I have belayed enough strong people on it (and Three Nine) to gain the view that it must be 8a. Apparently Bob Hickish reckons its the hardest move he's done at Malham.

Bouldery routes as training is a really good thought but the right side of the tor is far more handy from Sheffield.

[nik at work]

FWIW I've had a very brief play on both of these routes and I thought the Oak was the easier of the two. I seem to remember there was a move I didn't manage to do on the Maximum...

[shark]

Not an expert on sports psychology but it sounds like a head problem.Having watched the vid it obvious you can do it.

You may be right but the thing with PE routes like the Oak or Raindogs is that generally people look pretty smooth right up to the point they get shut down enough to be spat off 

[shark]

FWIW I've had a very brief play on both of these routes and I thought the Oak was the easier of the two. I seem to remember there was a move I didn't manage to do on the Maximum...

It is notoriously reachy. Mind you so is the throw move on the Oak.

[Adam Lincoln]

Have you considered using The Maximum as a training route? Same length (it being the route next door!), similar burly climbing and crux (easier obviously), plus it looks from your UKC log like you haven't done it. I think at tough bouldery 7c+ it would fit the job very well. The time it takes to redpoint will give you good info on how far off the level you need for the oak you are. Once redpointed you could attempt to do it multiple times in a session, w/wo set intervals.

I have belayed enough strong people on it (and Three Nine) to gain the view that it must be 8a.

One hard move doesn't make an 8a. I can think of plenty of harder moves at Malham. None of the 20+ people on 8a.willy waving have suggested 8a. Just 'hard' for the grade.

[Pitcairn]

Your foot position for the move you fell off looks a bit wierd.  I dont remember having such a low left foot for that move (but I havent been to Malham for over 10 years so might not reliable comment...).  You cruise the start so I reckon you should try to tweak your beta for that move and you should be in.

[Fiend]

Needs more angst!

[shark]

Have you considered using The Maximum as a training route? Same length (it being the route next door!), similar burly climbing and crux (easier obviously), plus it looks from your UKC log like you haven't done it. I think at tough bouldery 7c+ it would fit the job very well. The time it takes to redpoint will give you good info on how far off the level you need for the oak you are. Once redpointed you could attempt to do it multiple times in a session, w/wo set intervals.

I have belayed enough strong people on it (and Three Nine) to gain the view that it must be 8a.

One hard move doesn't make an 8a. I can think of plenty of harder moves at Malham. None of the 20+ people on 8a.willy waving have suggested 8a. Just 'hard' for the grade.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=12610

10 votes for easy 8a, 11 votes for hard 7c+ and 2 votes for mid 7c+

Anyway you put me off it when you clipped the third bolt and the hanger came off.

[shark]

Your foot position for the move you fell off looks a bit wierd.  I dont remember having such a low left foot for that move (but I havent been to Malham for over 10 years so might not reliable comment...).  You cruise the start so I reckon you should try to tweak your beta for that move and you should be in.

Point is I haven't been able to get to that point since.

[Adam Lincoln]

Have you considered using The Maximum as a training route? Same length (it being the route next door!), similar burly climbing and crux (easier obviously), plus it looks from your UKC log like you haven't done it. I think at tough bouldery 7c+ it would fit the job very well. The time it takes to redpoint will give you good info on how far off the level you need for the oak you are. Once redpointed you could attempt to do it multiple times in a session, w/wo set intervals.

I have belayed enough strong people on it (and Three Nine) to gain the view that it must be 8a.

One hard move doesn't make an 8a. I can think of plenty of harder moves at Malham. None of the 20+ people on 8a.willy waving have suggested 8a. Just 'hard' for the grade.

Anyway you put me off it when you clipped the third bolt and the hanger came off.

  Oh yeah, forgot about that!

[highrepute]

Don't think the Maximum is 8a, it's just got a hard few moves near the start. Nor do I think it is reachy, i'm not tall.

You are correct, your long standing, and quite public, siege is a bit of joke (no offence intended). I must have talked about you over a dozen times down the crag/pub and I've not even properly met you!

Seems to me that this is mostly in your head. You seem to enjoy the long siege. Somehow you could do with removing that mentality from your climbing. Perhaps you need to see a sport psychologist? read the book Jerry read?

Practise being ruthless when sending.

Also, I find it tiring driving to Malham from Sheffield. Get someone else to do the driving.

[davej]

What about a peak 8b near home?

[shark]

What about a peak 8b near home?

There aren't many. And none that suit me. And its not about the grade any more. I just want to do the Oak.

Current Peak project is Anger Management at the tor which is a really ace 8a+ I was trying last year.

[T_B]

I reckon you need to do something drastic. Either...

1) Send kids off to summer camp and wife on 6 week cruise with friends and camp out at Malham until it's done.

Or

2) Build proper replica in back garden, with realistic sika'd holds and spend more time training rather than sitting in car driving to Malham.

[ianv]

Your foot position for the move you fell off looks a bit wierd.  I dont remember having such a low left foot for that move

I thought something similar when I watched the vid.

Sack it for a bit and go on Magnetic, after all thats only 8a+ 

[Doylo]

Have you considered using The Maximum as a training route? Same length (it being the route next door!), similar burly climbing and crux (easier obviously), plus it looks from your UKC log like you haven't done it. I think at tough bouldery 7c+ it would fit the job very well. The time it takes to redpoint will give you good info on how far off the level you need for the oak you are. Once redpointed you could attempt to do it multiple times in a session, w/wo set intervals.

I have belayed enough strong people on it (and Three Nine) to gain the view that it must be 8a.

One hard move doesn't make an 8a. I can think of plenty of harder moves at Malham. None of the 20+ people on 8a.willy waving have suggested 8a. Just 'hard' for the grade.

Anyway you put me off it when you clipped the third bolt and the hanger came off.

  Oh yeah, forgot about that!

Was'nt I belaying?

[shark]

Have you considered using The Maximum as a training route? Same length (it being the route next door!), similar burly climbing and crux (easier obviously), plus it looks from your UKC log like you haven't done it. I think at tough bouldery 7c+ it would fit the job very well. The time it takes to redpoint will give you good info on how far off the level you need for the oak you are. Once redpointed you could attempt to do it multiple times in a session, w/wo set intervals.

I have belayed enough strong people on it (and Three Nine) to gain the view that it must be 8a.

One hard move doesn't make an 8a. I can think of plenty of harder moves at Malham. None of the 20+ people on 8a.willy waving have suggested 8a. Just 'hard' for the grade.

Anyway you put me off it when you clipped the third bolt and the hanger came off.

  Oh yeah, forgot about that!

Was'nt I belaying?

Scarier still if you weren't   


 

[Adam Lincoln]

Have you considered using The Maximum as a training route? Same length (it being the route next door!), similar burly climbing and crux (easier obviously), plus it looks from your UKC log like you haven't done it. I think at tough bouldery 7c+ it would fit the job very well. The time it takes to redpoint will give you good info on how far off the level you need for the oak you are. Once redpointed you could attempt to do it multiple times in a session, w/wo set intervals.

I have belayed enough strong people on it (and Three Nine) to gain the view that it must be 8a.

One hard move doesn't make an 8a. I can think of plenty of harder moves at Malham. None of the 20+ people on 8a.willy waving have suggested 8a. Just 'hard' for the grade.

Anyway you put me off it when you clipped the third bolt and the hanger came off.

  Oh yeah, forgot about that!

Was'nt I belaying?

Was Arran i think! I still remember his worried face as i jumped off.

[a dense loner]

Can the next person to reply remember to contain all the previous quotes as it seems I've stupidly forgot. Cheers

[Adam Lincoln]

Can the next person to reply remember to contain all the previous quotes as it seems I've stupidly forgot. Cheers

 

[Bonjoy]

Hard 7c+/easy 8a. Either way seems like a good stepping stone to The Oak, given the similarity and proximity. I find it hard to believe anyone who’s done both routes would think the crux on TM is harder! It’s hard but it is way easier than the Oak. Just sounds to me like one of those popular Malhamisms that get bandied about, the ones that have a grain of truth but a lot more grains of bullshit. Other examples of the genre being the old trope that Zoolook is harder than GBH and the now disproved one that Bat Route was impossible since losing a hold. I reckon as often as not people write TM off as a sandbag when they go on it expecting to rinse it quickly because the grade doesn’t start with an 8, then get upset that it has a hard move and bag it off quickly as being not worth the effort because the grade doesn’t start with an 8. Forget the lowly grade and the ignominy of potentially struggling on a route three grades below the one you’re normally seen struggling on. If it has a chance of making the difference it’s got to be worth a punt. And if it turns into a stupidly epic siege then you’ve got to wonder if trying an 8b version of the same concept is such a good idea anyway.
I’ll stop goading you now. 

[Fiend]

That be some good goading, arrrrr :D