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Be like Jerry
24 June 2009, 10:27 pm

I was surfing a wave these last few months - a wave of low motivation. Being the somewhat fickle character that we can all be at times, this all changed when I read Jerry's book. I realised that on an altogether different level, I have been suffering from similar self belief problems that he encountered in the early days of competing. Since emulating his tactics, I'm finding myself feeling every atom of wood/resin or in tonight's case , metal under my fingertips. A surge of motivation has begun to coarse through my veins once more.

Currently, I have a goal in my head that would once have appeared perhaps too grandiose for me to entertain. Now that I have seen what I must do, I no longer have been wasting time wondering and instead spend my time doing. Tonight, a late call to Pemb heralded a cancelled training session but my motivation led me to my fathers garage where the only edge to hang from was a small rounded metal one. I can't believe just how perfect a training hold this actually was and I devised a  toe -on, toe-off deadhang session stepping between a bandsaw and a lathe every 5 seconds. Where there is a will to train, there is indeed a way.



Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor

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Calm down
6 July 2009, 1:18 pm

I need to calm down, calm the whole deal right down. I'm  stuck between a rock and a hard place at the moment and living with one's parents at this age no matter how temporary the whole situation might (supposed to) be is hard.It's nice spending intermittent periods at home but also obviously pretty stressful given our contrasting lifestyles. Still, this is part of the bigger plan and the eye must remain on the finish line and an optimistic outlook that society will soon once again need architects. I say this given a seemingly weekly update from the Royal Institute of British Architects under email headings such as "Apply for your practice crisis pack". They're trying quite clearly to convey a positive spirit but it's hard ignoring the fact that so few of Liverpool's construction sites are unpopulated at present. Let's also not forget that buildings don't spring up overnight. The whole procurement process is a long, contrived and complicated affair.  Perhaps then in this light the recession might force a more fast tracked procurement method that isn't so bound up in red tape and conflated legislation? It'll be interesting to see.

For the past few weeks, labouring has been tiding me over for a bit of cash towards the 3,000 pound fees target and so far I'm just shy of 300 pound. If this trajectory were to continue, I might stand to make half of that which is a slight concern but I'm confident that hard work will seal the deal. It always feels a bit strange going from working so intensively in an academic environment to scrounging around for shitty admin jobs.  

I have to admit that although it's been an intense experience and genuinely back breaking work what with the oversize concrete blocks the architect has specified, I've developed some useful muscle groups and also received a lot more sunlight hours than I would normally. Similarly, I'm grateful of the work whilst many around me struggle to find even the most menial casual work. Mal (my boss and family friend) has mentioned a few times that I can work on future jobs with his company which as well as being a vital source of income is also good experience at the other end of the construction process.

Tuesday past, I was able to enjoy a day off and a day out to Parisella's with Ricardo, Smooth and O. It'd been a year since I'd last been on the Orme and it certainly felt like it. I managed to get to the usual end point on RA which I was quite pleased with and was comforted to see I had at least retained some form of base level for outdoor climbing. Very keen to not veer from the path of motivation this time and get it done so I can move onto something else in there. Was super impressed with Ricardo's form and even more so with his ease in dealing with the Pit of Hell start in the most disgusting conditions. O and Pete finally decided to embark upon their RA campaign and were doing well stringing together much of it despite humidity.

There's a cave trip tomorrow but I need to work through until Saturday for the 4 parties in one night party. Two friends have emptied their uber stylish dockland apartment and moved into a new abode. With another week's lease still on the property, this affords us a venue for the Mumu Moon Harbour pre pre-party. Then on to Peacock pre-party before going to the party before the after-party in what has to be one of the biggest and best new abodes in Aigburth. I'm psyched.

Lastly an apology to anybody losing minutes of their lives reading this. I'm aware that I very rarely link to any photos or video. This is due to the medieval ibook being unable to process more than the most basic CPU operations. I'd also like to apologise for the abysmal standard of  writing and content. Ordinarily, I enjoy writing and am fairly satisfied with  it but looking back through some recent posts, I'm wondering if it's worth continuing to write if it stays like this. I suppose there's not really anything of interest even to myself in my head at present. In any case, it's just some words on a page that seem to come out.



Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor

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Back two bustin, I ain't got time for dustin
7 July 2009, 7:13 pm

Thankfully weather conditions have mellowed out over the last two days and putting the roof on has been a relatively simple task in comparison to lifting thousands of blocks in high 20 degree heat. Realised I've learnt so much doing the job so far and know it's definitely going to help come returning to the drawing board/CAD suite. Incidentally that reminds me to pull my finger out and carry on learning AutoCad.

Last week, Pemb and I decided we might as well begin to train in his garage. Granted it has no beastmaker (yet) but he has the largest available Metolius simulator. It's nicely located on a concrete lintel and is  great for doing one arm work as you can pull above the height of the holds without any restrictive problems. James showed me the numbers on the workout Neil Gresham did for him last week and I used this loosely to evolve a current training plan. He reckoned you could do this pretty much most days and takes 20 mins at max.  Last nights session was probably closer to an hour and a half but expanded upon a few of the basic exercises. I read something someone wrote on UKB recently about one arm deadhanging technique and decided it's long overdue that I learn this important training exercise. After a few recent fingerboard sessions, I've finally begun to master the art and clocked a solid second on the smallest edge of the simulator. Was quite pleased with this as I was exhausted prior to commencing the session and now I've got the technique dialled, one second ought rapidly to become 10 seconds. In theory.

Last year at Lore's I proposed a sketch of what is my conception of the uber fingerboard. It included a set of fishing scales attached to a multi-knotted sling which would allow for a greater empirical understanding of the exact forces at a given time needed for assistance with one armers and one arm deadhangs. After trialling this last night, it seems to provide a useful indication within the 'peak' period of the hang as to the poundage needed to assist in the hang. You can soon tell when failure is occurring due to the wavering needle and I think it's pretty useful to jot down the ballpark poundage required for future reference. I'm very fond of any scientific approach to training as it allows the closest possible means to monitor just how much you're improving rather than getting disillusioned with simply pinching a tape or knot without ever feeling like you can do it without. Am going to continue doing this and will feed back my findings..

Probably the highlight of the session (yes I'm thinking about compiling a highlights TV package) was the discovery that I can indeed deadhang the smallest pocket with my back two and can do this for a pretty long time. Never really tried before but intend to continue working these frequently overlooked  little doigts.

Was nice to see Pemb looking solid and psyched. Nice also to hear he found the only physio in the world that seems to be able to keep him in one piece! Keep at it bestia.

If any dear home boys and home girls are reading and around this coming weekend with an inner techno beast to feed, then come stay in Liverpool for the 4 parties in 24 hours party. I urge you.



Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor

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de nada
8 July 2009, 10:30 pm

Attacked fingerboard with Pemb again tonight. Both felt pretty sore from Tuesday's extended session so limited tonight's session to just a fingerboard workout. The scales are proving useful and 25lb was my average required assistance to deadhang the small edge for circa 5 seconds comfortably. Managed to hang the slopers which are circa 45 degree flattys with the middle two fingers of each hand on the edge of the sloper. Felt pretty psyched about this as managed to do it for around 6 seconds. Loving the fingerboard cycle at the moment.

Just scheduled a cobble trip with Jim for next week so plan a light fingerboard session monday to rest nicely for the crush. No point even pretending I might be able to climb at the weekend.



Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor

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Italians and the art of fun
11 July 2009, 12:48 pm

There is nothing like a night out in Italy. Nothing. The night begins as you awake with that excited realisation as you rub your eyes that the evening will be long and every last sense stimulated. I remember distinctly the day of our night out to Tartana. There wasn't an alarm clock in sight, only the waft of fresh Italian espresso when the first of us would decide to roll out of bed.  With electric energy levels, this was inevitably Ricardo.   On most days he would be so excitable as to arise several hours prior to myself and bring the coffee to me in a bid to get me motivated for the events of the day ahead. Knowing the day would consist of a lengthy day out to Amiata and Sassofortino followed by an aperitivo and dinner then on to the club, his efforts weren't required on this particular occasion.

I could continue to reminisce to myself and regale every last  atom of my memories of that day but what would be the point? I can remember it like a father remembers the day of his newborn's entry into the world. And who would derive as much pleasure from reading my memoirs on this particular matter as I would? Certifiably, nobody. I think I'd like to revel in the human capacity to selfishly 'own' memories and their associated sensory details and instead write no more only to say that Lore, I'll think today of that amazing day last year and you'll be on the terrace in spirit with us.



Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor

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Where are all the latino's?
13 July 2009, 9:37 pm

Saturday I decided the least I could do for myself was to pull down on the beastmaker for an hour and a half. Feeling good on this little mistress now and hope some transfer occurs when I manage a more prolonged stint in the outdoors. Managed 6 seconds on middle two on the 45 degree pockets and a pullup which wasn't too shoddy considering the rancid humidity.  Still much room for improvement. If you climb at Awesome Walls regularly, you'll be well aware of the lack of either passive ventilation or air conditioning. I dearly wish they would sort something out as it feels like climbing in a steamroom. And I don't know any climbers that became any good who trained in a steamroom.

In vain, I tried to convince the team to do the whole 12 hours at the warehouse party but nobody was up for it. Probably wise actually. Good to see the girl's getting a psyche on for techno and they all lapped it up. Martinez played back to back with Nima Gorji and the atmosphere was the best yet. Tried it on with two Spanish girls but soon realised that on the continent when a girl talks to you it doesn't necessarily equate to wanting to be wed (plus I sussed out their boyfriends). They come from a culture of fun and are playful. This was quite nice actually. Nothing else to report. End of infoburst.

Keith, Lore. For you.



Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor

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The sum of the whole
21 July 2009, 7:23 pm

If I were to describe each day, I would describe it as an existential nightmare. I really would. I'd like not to be misconstrued as suicidal when I say that; I say it because almost every hour of every day, I wonder if what I am doing is what I would like to be doing. If I don't like what I am doing, why should I continue to do it? Naturally , I appreciate  that it is very difficult to convey one's worldview and that is precisely the frustration that I am encountering here in trying to say to you what as a variety of abstractions, I say to myself.

I lost my other grandmother last night and witnessed my father cry for the first time ever at her bedside. It's now not the first time I have witnessed someone close to me become painfully frail and perish slowly. I  think, in her own way, she thought similarly to me. I can't remember an occassion in her life where she would fail to relish an opportunity to experience something new or somewhere new. This is how to live and it's really quite simple. Rest in peace.



Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor

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Inexplicable
6 August 2009, 11:56 am

Since I started labouring a few months back I've not really been able to train properly  despite my best intentions. Have been partying a lot when not working but this is no bad thing.  I hadn't climbed  at the wall or indeed any wall in over two weeks but yesterday managed a new personal best on the beastmaker managing to deadhang the smallest pockets on my back two for 6 seconds. What surprised and shocked me was that a month or two ago when I was hitting the fingerboard hard I couldn't really get close to pulling on yet all of a sudden could do this comfortably for a decent amount of time. I find it hard to explain how incessant partying and labouring can have helped me remotely to do this.

Jim called at alpine o'clock this morning (OK 11.15) and despite feeling the dregs of a late night sesh has somehow persuaded me to head Wales bound with the fonz. Be nice to get out eh.

Nothing to report at the moment really other than some welling psyche for the next warehouse party with Sebo K and And.Id a week on saturday.  One time.



Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor

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YYFY
18 August 2009, 3:34 pm

I've had a pleasant past fortnight. As bad weather forced a lethargic state of affairs in the labouring department my leisure time increased. This was nothing short of amazing and I'm happy to be poor for a relative short term. I've managed a couple of gorge sessions and been given some compulsory reading to do for the design studio. Initially at the commencement of the summer vacation I didn't need any stimulus to motivate me into reading upon on the subject but as time away from the studio has passed, I'm actually thankful for being given some mental fibre.

I'm pleased to report that after a fortnight of no climbing my fingers felt stronger than ever late last week. I've become amazed at how a prolonged rest after a month cycle of committed finger boarding has permitted the tendons to up the ante. My back two feel solid on small crimps and my mono strength has gone through the roof over the past 6 months. I'm fully aware that the past 12 months have fluctuated dramatically in terms of commitment to training and climbing with short cycles of intense focus followed by short cycles of partying. I made the decision last week that the 15th August MuMu warehouse party would be the last for a good while. I stand by this and have begun to think deeply about how the next 3 months of training will be tailored to some specific goals.  As of today my diet has seen some drastic alterations; I'm at heart a healthy eater but must make some drastic omissions - that of beer and trans fats. I won't miss either in the least and have exhausted my interests in both over the summer months. In all fairness in fact, I eat hardly any fat but would still like to cut out the bad stuff and offer only goodness to my arteries.

I think one of the major problems with me gaining any specific focus with climbing over the past few months has been my time spent back on the Wirral peninsula. Very very few of my friends have remained here and so most of my days have been spent commuting to Liverpool and dossing at friends houses. Those spent at home have involved prolonged  sessions of watching Fashion TV drinking various worldly coffees and listening to around 8 hours of new techno a day. It's a good combination but eventually the mind has come to crave substance.

The past five days have yielded some wonderful news for me. Since I am now 25, the levels of funding for university for which I am eligible have gone through the roof. Ambiguities about being able to afford the course have drifted into the void and I'm thankful at my persistence and belief that all would come good once I had passed through the first year of study. A chance call to the university funding department with regards to the level of one of my bursary's confirmed that as I am now assessed upon my own financial means, I will automatically receive the maximum amount of support unlike last year.  It's been a struggle to subsist off very little but the goal posts move closer.

I sound like a scumbag but I can assure you I'm not.  Time to achieve.



Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor

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Revamp
26 August 2009, 2:15 pm

An enjoyable week past. Went to a whisky tasting and fine dining evening at a friend's parents abode last weekend and discovered the joyous Lagavulin. This was a nice way to bid farewell to frequent drinking and I think I'd much rather spend my money on a nice bottle here and there than continue to line the pockets of Liverpool's many unscrupulous bar owners.

The week in summary; had a few more sessions down at Devil's gorge, caught a 6lb Thornback Ray at New Brighton, mixed some new records and am compiling a reading list for the year ahead.  Fishing's been a nice cheap rest activity of late and it's nice to know self-caught fish cost nothing to eat!

Given the page a bit of a revamp so I can link to anything worth checking out on youtube. Best I can do for now given I may as well be accessing the internet on an Acorn. Some content to follow in a few weeks when new computer arrives.

Big up to Crouch for dispatching Never Ending Story pt 2 last week. Have to head out to Swiss with you at Christmas and get involved!

The Ray.



Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor

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fix
26 August 2009, 3:59 pm

Made a pigs ear by overwriting some code so header isn't as it should be. Will fix it soon.



Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor

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Like a child at Christmas
30 August 2009, 11:12 pm

Rather tragically I've been feeling like a young boy the night before Christmas about going back to university at the end of September. It really can't come soon enough. I desperately miss design and the antagonistic atmosphere of the crit. Nothing quite beats the feeling of having done your technical homework and rubbing the face of a critic into the dirt. It's especially nice having served a summer of labouring at the sharp end to inform my working knowledge.

I spent the weekend with two friends helping one of them move into his new abode in Sheffield. Friday night was spent in the worst club I have ever been to and will ever go to. I'm having trouble trying to remember the name of said putrid place but it'll come to me soon enough in a nightmare. After an inadequate lie in, Paulo and I decided to call in to Burbage North for a reunion.  Conditions obviously weren't primo but it was nice to be out on the edge and take in some fresh air. A short while later we headed to meet Jim at Burbage South. Everyone was feeling knackered from either work or an uber late night and so the team plan to set some new 8c's didn't unfurl exactly as we had hoped. We all still had a laugh and at least felt like we were climbing 8c in the physical and atmospheric conditions given to us. It's ordinarily against my personal ethics to climb on gritstone but it's time to change that mindset and get involved.

Felt suitably spurred on by a day out yesterday and after a mandatory viewing of L'Etranger neccessary to dig out some type 2 muscle fibres, I enjoyed a bar session at Paulo's. Just need a few weeks of power training to catch up with last month's finger strength gains and it'll soon be time to flex a crush once more. Going to rest tomorrow and train tuesday.



Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor

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All I ever wanted, all I ever needed
2 September 2009, 1:22 pm

Was a means to train my fingers at home in the safe isolated sanctuary of the Wirral peninsula. As the only Beastmaker I have access to is some distance away in Liverpool, I was glad to see senor Doyle link to a picture of a simple solution for mobile training without needing to make any incisions in the parent's prized door jambs. A quick rummage in  T Mills snr's workshop led me to all the materials one could need to make a simple  similar fingerboard. Just need to stick these Gaskins photos above the big rung and I'll be back two bustin til the break of dawn.

Thanks Christoph.



Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor

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Compartmentalisationarising
4 September 2009, 10:26 am

Perhaps an American style term for "getting your life organised". Had my fill of constant partying now and it's time to focus on making some gains; be it reading new books, devoted evenings of training or actual boulder problems. After some time spent mounting the new board in the garage I took to it for it's inaugural session last night. Am sort of amazed how I can possibly be this ecstatic over a few pieces of wood and incisions into a piece of plywood but there we are. As much as I miss access to the Beastmaker, I've the added bonus of having a beam to suspend a bungee rig from at home and it's pleasing to see that two one armers on the top rung required only a smidgen of a first joint index assistance.  It wasn't sadly the case for my left arm where I needed almost every finger to haul myself up. Good to have identified a weakspot but sad to have lost a lot. In any case, it seems like the  pullup bar work is helping a lot.

Format for session one went thus:

- Three sets of warmup pulls and finger stretching

- 1 set of repeaters on big rung to get blood flowing

- Small rung hangs (6 x 8 secs)

- Assisted one arm deadhang on small individual edge (x 3 each arm)

-  Assisted one armers on top rung (x 2 reps at good quality x 5 sets each arm)

- 3 sets warm down pulls (x 8)

Added a couple of symmetrical wooden pinches afterwards that are a bit more generous than the current 'bounty' pinches. Speaking of the bounty system; I've put two very thin 70 degree-angled pinches at each side of the board next to two very shallow monos routed into the ply. To hang off solely pinches or solely monos results in buying an MPC. The idea being I would like an Akai MPC so  badly that I'll be forced to squeeze them into the next side of tomorrow. Sort of an inverted, more appealing version of the seminal glacial swim system Keith and James have been pioneering in Osterreich (braver men than I!). In the meantime the little bastards serve as useful assists on focussing the deadhang load through the other hand.

Going to venture out to a crag at random shortly. Bring the noise!



Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor

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Getting all Zanussi
8 September 2009, 1:07 pm

After two days on training at home last Thurs/Fri, I gave the weekend over to socialising and a catchup with Donners. He's been training pretty hard of late and suggested we hit Rubicon up on sunday past. Alas conditions conspired against us and instead of a long haul futile journey, we spent the day relaxing and reclining at his gaff.

Had the third garage session yesterday and despite feeling a tiny bit rundown got through it ok; trying to focus on ironing out some of the inconsistencies with the left arm. Added a 4mm edge this morning and plan to incorporate this into an adapted training routine. Much like repeaters simulate the application of contact/pressure on a problem or route, I've figured out a useful means of training for some of the shorter harder sport routes I'd like to give a bash. The idea being a hang of 8 secs on the main rung, 3 secs rest, 8 secs 5mm rung, 3 secs rest.....

It should prove useful in quantifying gains throughout the month and when I can do this for a considerable period will start to introduce the 4mm edge into the equation.

Off out to the Lake District tomorrow to give a few new (to me) areas a go with Paul. Haven't been to Cumbria in a long time so am looking forward to it. Some pictures to follow.



Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor

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Addendum
8 September 2009, 2:15 pm

I walked away from writing the last post and felt something was missing.

I set this blog up purely as a cathartic means of voicing my aspirations, concerns, and priorities. I'm fairly sure the former and the latter are catered for and only until they become manifest will they readjust. But what of my concerns? Since I left a relationship which was just shy of 7 years, I've found it increasingly difficult to sustain climbing motivation in a consistent sense. Perhaps the stability and regularity of everything facilitated a 'schedule', I'm not too sure.

When I consider my climbing peers, where we were all at and what we wanted to achieve two years ago, many significant developments have occured for them. Around this time, the gulf between myself and an esteemed friend and climbing partner was not vast. As my motivation levels have undergone fits and starts, inevitably I have inflicted a sort of dual effect upon myself whereby because of this inconsistency I've left myself a giant hole to dig myself out of and I have become aware that the time that has elapsed will now delay some of the aspirations that I would have been seeing lately.

Thankfully, a recent month and a half of unerring dedication to the beastmaker propelled me past something of a plateau but again, I veered from the path of consistency to one of hedonism. That's not to say that this is a bad thing but I must realise that the one constant that's always been in my life has been that of climbing. Even despite a lengthy hiatus in my first undergraduate degree I still ventured out on occassion to the Yorkshire crags. The hiatus was in many ways very neccessary for me to focus upon my supreme goal at that time - to gain a first classification in my study. I acheived this and I immersed myself wholeheartedly in doing so but at the expense of acheiving any climbing goals. I stand by the priority I accorded here.

If I am to attempt a self critique, I can say that although outwardly I am confident, I've become aware over the past couple of years that inwardly, I can lack self-confidence in my ability and potential ability. It's sometimes too easy to say that ''I've left it too late'' or rather more simply "I'm not good at this and can't see myself becoming good". Whilst nothing I hear from anybody be it close climbing friends or a new acquaintance can shape my personal goal setting agendas, it's horrible to hear people say about a climber that "I don't think he's actually that good, he just trains a lot". What aural detritus! I should come to appreciate that the type of person that would make this comment will never fully satisfy what potential they might have. It is a comment that is simply too foolish to reflect even briefly upon.

So to vocalise to myself how I will (and I desperately want to) sustain my motivation for climbing whilst stood at the door of an imminent intense two years of academic study; I'll continue making and acheiving micro goals in the home setting away for the majority of time from the climbing wall. Unlike the public realm, I dictate the atmosphere that I wish to operate within and I control my session away from the external influences of children wandering freely underneath falling climbers. Here, I free myself from distractions and commuting times. I'm also freed from the pressures oft felt at the climbing wall by the gaze of others. I'd not be freely exposing to myself my concerns if I didn't include this particular issue.

In summary I hope that the hermitic (of course not totally) decision I've made rewards me with some goals that I now know can be acheived. I won't apologise as perhaps I ordinarily might for you reading this and know that the peers I value will be able to succintly translate what I am saying.

It's good to talk. To yourself.



Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor

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Rock boulderising
14 September 2009, 11:55 am

Determined to escape the sole confines of the garage and touch rock, I've managed to hit three venues of altogether different rock types and climbing styles. The week before last was Burbage, the week past Kentmere and on Saturday past it was Rubicon.

Amazingly non of these venues feel like polished wooden crimps and they make huge demands of me such as that of using my feet to propel myself up or across a rock face. The fingerboard makes less demands and asks only that I contract my digits as hard as possible for a pre-determined period of time. He gives me wonderous gains and quick recourse to the in situ Gaskins action shots prevents any potential premature ejection from the rungs. Quite apparently however, he does not gift me in any way shape or form with the mandatory motor memories needed to ascend the rock.

Two days spent at Kentmere permitted a full tour of the venue without needing to thrash about before heading back down the M6. Conditions were less than ideal in the blazing sun but it really didn't matter on many of the wonderful easy problems. Quite simply it was nice to be on rock and in the most beautiful of surroundings. I warmed up on Badger Arete and then the more satisfying Badger Arete SDS. It's a sublime problem and I'd say is quite representative of the techniques that start to become requisite in climbing mid grade problems and includes a joyous pinch on the arete in the most perfect of positions. The Hole was a very basic and Swiss style pit problem involving some long pulls and satisfying moves. It was also thankfully very well shaded and the conditions in the pit were very reminiscent of the micro climates in Magic Wood. Naturally I made some non climbing friends that had come for the ride witness the sheer brutality of Shadow Play. They seemed about 15% in awe and the situation was likened to the journeys they used to go on with their mother to Roman forts and Wattle and Daub museums. Irrespectively, I took a minute out to imagine G on the send locking hideous micro flat pinches and edges doubtless without emitting a single sound. Truly mindblowing.

Saturday past, Matt and I awoke at 5.45 to head to Rubicon. I was approaching the route scene with an open mind and no expectations but Matt wanted to crush Zeke once more. He's been training hard and it's a real pleasure to watch someone who hasn't been on this route in over a decade take to it as if it was a trade route. Of course he had to familiarise himself with the holds and a very specific sequence and it was probably only a wrong hand movement that stood between him and the crush.

In the cold temps of the early morning it was a little difficult to awaken the body for both of us and it probably wasn't ideal that the warmup consisted of some brief jug pulling before hopping onto an 8b. After Matt had spent time ascertaining what he needed to do next session, I felt I should get a taste for what I would be in for should I commit to sport climbing.

To me, Peak limestone is a little like looking at a TV screen of that visually caustic white noise once found on 80s televisions. I can't differentiate one hold from the next let alone decide where I should put my body. From such little outdoor climbing of late my skin was horrendous on the sharp edges and incuts that feature on some of the holds but I still dogged through sections of the route and slowly began to see where I needed to be to link certain moves. It was perhaps slightly foolish for me to jump on this route but currently my fingers are at their strongest ever and no hold felt in any way bad apart from the most knacky pinch/crimp hold at half height. I walked away from the morning feeling a strong urge to rack up the route hours and work hard on improving the elementary skills required for hard redpointing. It's perhaps slightly foolish to have jumped in at the deep end grade wise but it really does feel like a simple matter of accruing a lot more rock hours and listening to Matt's voice of reason who clearly believes in my capabilities and is keen for me to succeed.

And so the campaign to reinvigorate my regimes, rock types and motor memory has begun. Rather than returning week after week to the same old venues, it's clear that the way forward is in seeking out all that is new and listening closely to the feedback from talented peers (as is ever the case).

Yesterday I acquired my new MacBook Pro and it's very alien to be able to interact so comprehensively with the internet and architectural applications. The unexpected death of the ibook G4 has been a blessing in disguise and gone are the days of waiting an hour for a pdf to open. Expect to see much more video and imagery here from now on.

Happy crushing to you all.



Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor

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Girls only want guys with great skills
16 September 2009, 1:33 pm

Will make amends to talk less about inane fingerboard movements now the new beastly macbook pro is through and post some multimedia. Not used to this level of computational efficiency.

Spent ages trying to get blogspot video upload thing to work but it's not playing ball and saying my tags aren't closed. I have no idea what to do to remedy this so if you know the score feel free to let me know. Pointless putting a lot of things on youtube.

Some small rung assists with bungee. Feel ten times stronger since the board has gone up doing this simple basic exercise in conjunction with overload sessions. Donnelly's coming over tonight to play. That should be fun.

I also wish I was this man who looks like something out of Napoleon Dynamite. And wears weird gloves.



Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor

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Contentment
20 September 2009, 9:22 pm

I've had a pleasant week past and have a pleasant week ahead. I decided yesterday after opening a letter containing some good news from university that I should go to Italy this week before recommencing study. On the back of this thought I logged straight onto Ryanair and booked it. I fly out Tuesday morning and come back next Monday. Lately I've become aware that my good friend Lorenzo has had to endure some tough times and figured he could do with some shoulder slapping, climbing and partying. Thankfully he's not one to spurn a short notice visit from a friend and so I depart with a bag of psyche that I forgot to check in. Ryan Air will probably charge me for that no matter how hard I try to conceal it.

I've been spending the last couple of weeks working on a project. It's something I'm super motivated for and after today feel that the past few weeks dieting/training is starting to pay off. I had something of a breakthrough moment with it today and am eager to get back to it upon my return from Italy. I'll keep you posted on anything significant.

Tomorrow is packing and organising day before Mule comes over to talk flats. Danny's just made the transition to Liverpool and together with the Mule, Ricardo, O, Ben et al. the scene should be throbbing.

Next post will be from Italy where I hope to unfurl my plan of watercolour sketching in Florence in order to meet an Italian supermodel girlfriend. This would be nice.



Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor

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And so it begins...
30 September 2009, 11:45 am

I've had a very pleasant last week in Siena and Florence with my good man Lorenzo. A lot happened in a short space of time and as I've just jumped straight back into university, I'm going to draft a proper post in the next few days with some short footage of the recent developments at Amiata top.

I've already begun thinking about the possible Austria trip at Christmas with Em and possibly the Mule. I've not really done much skiing before but am beginning to get a psyche on for the imminent potential bouldering and ski holiday. Since travelling on my own to Italy, I'm starting to get into the idea of doing more Euro breaks on my own and am considering looking into Bulgaria ski holidays through these guys who seem to provide a pretty comprehensive package.  I've been doing a bit of research into the best slopes and best ways to get involved but I'm hoping James and Em will be able to pave the way for the worlds greatest ski punter. It does seem a tad tragic going skiing on your own but Bulgaria has some fairly esoteric architecture I'd like to check out and it could be more than plausible to head out early January. Who knows.

Will talk Italy after I make a decent start on the new design project. Boom.



Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor

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Turning 26
15 October 2009, 9:50 am

I turned 26 on Monday. I nearly missed it though. Since the moment I stepped off the plane back from Italy, I've been rooted to my drawing board and desk immersing myself in the realities of second year architecture. My dad phoned me on Sunday night as I was sat in studio working away and asked if I was coming to visit the following day for my birthday. I assured him that my birthday was on Tuesday and that I'd see him then. Turns out it was the following day.  

I haven't had time to recapitulate the amazing time that I spent in Florence and Siena but for those of you that a)know Lorenzo and b)spend any amount of time in his company, you can imagine how good a time was had. That's a lame attempt, I'm sorry. Dinner in Trombicche with Lore's good friends, crushing at the newly developed boulders at Amiata top (between some pain from training on wood and having poor skin), chatting to many people, drinking great coffee, wine and liqueurs. I could continue but you must get to Florence and Siena and see for yourselves.

Currently, I have just finished a two week project designing a house. The brief stipulated a number of criteria must be adhered to which although presenting some difficulties, made us work within a framework to produce a building 'type'. It's definitely an up of the ante in terms of the time given to complete projects but one can notice an improvement in skills across the board developing in tandem.

I need to mail Lore some short video footage and snaps giving a very vague hint at the beauty and quality of Amiata top so you can see what goes on.

Stay cool.



Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor

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Pack it up, pack it in, let me begin
26 January 2010, 5:03 pm

Since the last time of writing, much and very little has happened. I'm not even sure what did but suffice to say something of significance might have happened.

Climbing motivation is pretty high at the moment. The month past has been spent on the odd occassion fingerboarding in between doing a lot of work for university assessments. After a pretty epic all night stint in studio two days ago, all of my work is now pinned up for marking and the only remaining thing that I'm working for is a slide recognition test on friday. From here it's straight on a train to meet the mule and slam it down to Bristol to party. I'm fuelled.

I'm in training for the project and know it's just a question of time before I acquire the specific micro gains to send it since discovering a great bit of micro beta before the snow came. Fully ready for a training season as of friday and looking forward to being back at the crags.

Hope yall are good now.



Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor

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Gaskins o clock
26 March 2010, 2:33 pm

Well, since last posting, many things have happened. I realised that the only way to train given the current life situation is to be out the door for 6.15 am running and then jumping onto the fingerboard for hangs and power pulls. I've done two sessions now and I love it. Being up before seemingly anyone else and pumping one's lungs full of oxygen goodness is what it's all about. Admittedly power pulls can feel something of a great effort at that time of day but through persistence, they'll become easier.

As Master Hession requested to see evidence of me actually doing something, here's a little sketch section photoshop render from this early phase of the library design. I'm enjoying it greatly and heard from a tutor that the external visiting critic that saw my scheme said mine was the only one on the day that got him genuinely interested. This is very pleasing to hear and it's nice to know I could well be setting myself up for some good marks. Working with these quick sketch scheme sections and photoshop seems to be a good way to quickly develop ideas and so I'll probably swerve Archicad sessions until next year in order to allow my photoshop skills to grow.

In summary, life is good, I met an ace girl lately. I still have no money but I'm on the path that I know leads to somewhere.

Peace.



Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor

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What has been and what is to come
10 June 2010, 12:41 pm

The past three months are something of a blur. I've spent much of it sat in various rooms drawing, modelling and whatever else has been demanded of me. The marks haven't come in yet for the year but hopefully they're not too shoddy. I think I let myself down a bit in the final scheme by missing a crucial drawing but I'm just glad to be out of second year and moving on to third year.

In summary of climbing, I've not really done any but have when time has allowed crushed the fingerboard doing power pulls and hangs. I'm really out of practice but am now at least endowed with four months to train for my project. I've been running a lot which has altered my body shape quite drastically and I'd say I'm a lot less bulkier than normal which is good.

Today is day one back on it so time will tell. Godspeed yall.



Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor

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Fuelled
12 June 2010, 10:38 am

Went back to project Thursday evening and pulled down. Nice to be getting moving on rock again and also feel pretty light from running. There's been a fair bit of muscular deterioration but I think this is bizzarely desirable. I've noticed over the years that when I'm training a lot with campussing/weights/board climbing, although I might be a lot more powerful than I currently am, I can also lack that sensation I had around the cusp of puberty where I weighed very little and was mostly tendons with some body. I think after some recent examples I've seen, it's possible to get back to this and I know I climb much better for being this type of build. With this in mind, I've altered my training strategy for the project to continue running a lot as well as keeping a close eye on my diet. I figure plenty of hours deadhanging alongside this is just the ticket to success.



Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor