[andybfreeman]

STG - put the past few months training to good use and crush in Spain!
MTG - Just Revenge and The Cider Soak @ Anstey's. Climb Onde du Choc when i get back to the forest this winter.
LTG - Consolidate at 8a then onwards and upwards. Boulder 7C etc

M - Rest after long weekend
T - circuits @ TCA. Did laps of the new thin green butkept failing on last move. A few probelms to mix it up a bit
W - power endurance on Mark's board. Finished session with some power problems on skin friendly holds then some Beastmaker. New PB (5 pull ups) on the 45s and solid one arm 90deg locks on the deep slot and 20deg sloper.
Th - did the yellow circuit at TCA with Jim and Lorraine. c. 40 problems in the 5+ to 6C sort of range.
F - rest
Sa - fun day at the ring road boulders. Felt strong and did a few new (for me) problems including a couple of V6s
Su - in the office playing catch up before my hols (procrastination is why I've started this thread!)

Weight 65.2g this morning and average of 66 dead this week. this is the lightest I've been for years 

Less than a week  of tapering and maintaining diet then I leave for  Spain on Friday morning!!

[Richie Crouch]

Goals for 2010: In Hell (cave), Never Ending Story pt 1 (Magic Wood), T Crack (cratcliff)

Mo: Rest
Tu: Depot for 4 hour session, up and down session trying various black/orange and yellow problems. The yellow were harder than the black ones (weird)
We: Parisella's, warmed up feeling a bit slow and got on LWH then had really bad left arm pain on the whole upper arm/bicep area/inner elbow side, that meant ibuprofen and stopped immediately)
Th: Rest
Fr: Rest, lots of light weight exercises/stretches off the athlon article.
Sat: Rest - BBQ, beer!
Sun: Rest, more light weight exercises/stretches

 

[Barratt]

STG: Full recovery from ac joint/tendon injury.
LTG: Consolidate 7a, bag some 7b's

Mon: Core, rehab and some free weights all focused on shoulders
Tues: Works light session, circuit board and some pinks.
Wed: The Burner. Set 1: 8mins. Set 2: 12mins. OMG!
Thurs:  Beastmaker, light session on edges and slopers using 4, front 3 and back 3
Fri: Rest
Sat: Climb on lime, new venue and bagged a couple of nice 6c's. Good to climb again 
Sun: Rest

A positive week in that I've started climbing, albeit quite badly. The burner was sadistic, quite looking forward to it this week though. Very good to be climbing. Left arm/ shoulder is about 50% down on strength but there's light at the end of the tunnel.

Bring on next week.

[Nibile]

harder week this past one.
mon - toproping. 7a+, 7b done. 8a+ many rests. 7b+ a couple of rests. tired.
tue - weights. full session bar shoulders.
wed - weights. back and shoulders.
thu - rest. much needed.
fri - weights. complete session bar shoulders.
sat - rest and clubbing.
sun - rest.

comments. this has been a harder week. i did 5 days in a row after last weekend in the dolomites. felt much better on the (top) rope. the 7b+ is really doable and the 8a+ is doable, except for a dyno and a horrible two finger crimpy edge. but who cares.
the weights are going on with good vibes. i cut off some chest exercises and started training triceps also in super sets.
currently training my back in super sets. bicep curl + pulley (both one armed) or bicep curl + lat machine (one armed). i have to say that super sets are very hard. i started noticing improvements esp. in my left arm.
i am scared to test how weak my fingers got in these past three weeks without fingerboarding. next week.
finally, the elbow is stable, but i still haven't climbed hard on it nor fingerboarded. fingers crossed as usual.
ciao.

[Luthor]

STG: Stay psyched, have fun, not get injured
LTG: Boulder 7b ish, Get more experience on sports routes

Mon: rest day
Tues: Bouldering@Works. Worked/Got some new problems on comp wall
Wed: Tired so rested
Thurs: Bouldering@Works. med/hard circuit problems
Fri: Bouldering@Matrix. Felt harder than normal
Sat: no climbing
Sun: Quick 90 sess at Works. Climbed+Downclimbed 25 med hard problems

[shark]

Thanks for starting thread Andy

Goal: Oak. 10,000 8a nu points
Weight: 11.4

M.
T. Foundry Wave. Best session ever?
W.Foundry Wave 
T. Early AM Yoga. PM Weights. Tweaked back a bit. 7 French pull ups at end (best ever?)
F. Eve Drive to Edinburgh
S. Ratho routes up to 7a+. Tommy came 6th in 8-10 age group of BYCS 
S. Back very sore. Drive home.

Expensive week. New turbo on car + MOT = £1200. Had planned to go to Cornice on Tues but couldnt face walking in in the rain so went to Foundry to work out an endurance cicuit but as there was a good crowd got stuck into bouldering and had an ace session especially as hadnt had a full session on it fot nearly 3 months. Need to rein on the calories this week and probably see John Ostro to stick pins in my back. Not sure another visit to the Cornice is wise until my back is better.

[roddersm]

STG Goals:

Trad: Pitchfork Wit E1, Birdie, sightseer both E2,Elvis (again) E3 , The Barb E1, The Borg Assimilated my mars bar E3 (All Muckross).
Rail Road E1, Marconi E3 5c, Jolly Roger E3 (Fairhead), Zodiac E2 5c, Thank you and goodbye E3 6a (Culdaff)
Boulder: Chubbs Peterson 7a(+?) Fairhead , Carbide 7a Left Overs 7a+ Fairhead, Split arete 6b+
sport onsight multiple 7as. debelof 6c+ and biscott margerine 6b+ and lots of other good routes in the verdon.

LTG's:
Trad: E5 o\s
Sport: Onsight 7b. rp 7c. Climb lots of stuff in Verdon, Ceuse,Buoux and Siurana.
Boulder: At least 7C .

Mon  Run 46 min.
Tue  Climbing wall session 2 hours. Pub.
Wed  Run 1 hr 6 min.
Thur  Rest.
Fri     Run 48 min.
Sat   Muckross easy trad. Lead Pitchforkwit E1. Minor epic when tide comes in and seconder has a tough time. Solo a severe then go Bouldering 1 6a, 1 6a+, 1 6b+. Beer, wine and campfire.
Sun  Muckross. Fucking pissing down. Ab to get my friend back from yesterday in a typhoon. go home. Run 46 min.   

Happy that I ticked another ST goal even if its only E1. Hoped to climb something harder this weekend but the weather wrecked that. Bollocks. Running really well and had my 1st decent climbing wall session in weeks. Motivation returning. Booked flights to verdon too.

[nik at work]

I think I've missed a week somewhere, oh well...

8b,8B

M - building a patio, saw very fast motorbikes.
T - building a patio, saw very fast motorbikes, evening spent "sport" climbing.
W - building a patio, saw very fast motorbikes, evening spent working a hard(ish) eliminate training traverse.
T - building a patio, saw very fast motorbikes.
F - building a patio, saw very fasr motorbikes, cleaning new tradlines  in the afternoon.
S - boat home then relaxing day.
S - daddy daycare while doing some plumbing at my sisters.

Was in the Isle of Man all week so got out more than I expected.

[petejh]

Goal - VIII, 8a, 8A, E8, in 2010.
At - IX, 7b+, 7B, E4.
Goal for June - Foulish Ghoulish (pen trwyn), Body Torque (pt), Foil/Stroll On/Quasar (pass), climb one of the two new routes I've been cleaning.

m. indi wall, recruitment on woodie and probs I can't do.
t. nowt.
w. Belaying duties, got on Plaqued by Fools, v. greasy and started raining. The crux moves wreck the skin. Sacked it off in favour of Body Torque which is more skin friendly.
t. Tradding at tremadog. Good day, amongst other things did the most sandbagged route I've done in quite a while - Dotheboys, great route.
f. Parisellas, 1 hr in the evening. Good sesh.
s. Cleaning new route, almost done.
s. Cave, worked moves on left wall high.

Good week, psyched for Body Torque.

[chillax]

STG: E3 at the Head, Ramore chimney project
MTG: E4, Boombastic, Projects in Wicklow and Dublin
LTG: Climb E7

Mon: End of 5 day Fair Head bender. Climbed a big E1 chimney, great fun.
Tues: Can barely move
Wed: Fingerboard and core
Thurs: Workity
Fri: Workity
Sat: Work
Sun: Good core session.

Not much this week, but had to recover from the last extended weekend. And had to get the head down for a presentation I have to give in an hour  Gola trad next weekend if the weather looks good. If it looks shit then might hit the Head and clean a mint looking new line I saw last week. Might be too hard for me yet, but might as well have a wee look 

[Andy F]

Mon,Tues, Wed, Thurs - 30 mins fingerboarding when the little fella is having a nap.
Fri/Sat - football/beer.
Sun - Day pass to Kilnsey. Usual warm-up then did a nice 7b+ quickly. Felt strong but lack of mileage showed in the fitness.

Over the next couple of months the aim is to get lots of quick ticks in the mid - high 7's as I'm not going to have the time to project anything in the 8's.

[chris_j_s]

Weight: 60kg

Aims for 2010: rp 7b+ sport, o/s 6c+ sport, 7A+ boulder.

M: 1 set of the burner - 6 mins 15secs, followed by a deadhanging session.
T: Bouldering at Ingleton. Started out working strength, good to see that it hasn't dropped off too much having been focussed much more on fitness in recent weeks. Active rest between problems on an easy circuit. Towards the end of the session worked on one of the harder circuits which I couldn't quite finish but had a reasonable few burns on.
W: Rest day - Meal out for anniversary was very nice but not ideal for the waistline!
T: Bouldered at Ingleton. Another big session similarly structured to Tuesday. Great progress on the hard circuit - completed it in full 4 times towards the end of the session with just 2-3 mins rest between.
Knackered afterwards!
Fri: Rest day
Sat: Wasted loads of time trying to set up a top rope to shunt a 7b+ at Gigg North. Hangers had been removed from bolts at the top which were clearly used to ab from when the lines were put up and very little confidence inspiring natural gear so sacked it off and went bouldering instead. Watched England game and was underwhelmed!
Sun: Clearing rubble from our (purposefully!!) demolished shower room plus a bit of plumbing. Was running out of time in the evening so did a set of the burner. Staggered myself by doing it in 5mins 30secs 
Followed it up with a couple of sets of 20 crunches then went to bed.

[nai]

stg, consolidate E2, 7a
mtg - tick list of 150 peak routes from VS to E4, 7b+
ltg - 7C next winter

m - an hour at baslow, rained off.  Fingerboard at home, surprised to be as strong on 3 fingers as last session about three months ago.  2 fingers sucked though
t - got the road bike out for the first time in about 3 years, 11.5 miles in an hour
w - couple of hours bloddering at rubicon til my skin hurt
t - road bike, same route, man my arse hurt.
f - bloddering/routing at rubicon.  Wasn't feeling good, skin felt sore just after the warm up, tried Caviar and TOTBB but was appalling on both. Good wake up session.
ss - nowt.

bit of a slow week but ok give the weather, another slow week of climbing expected this week as I have my last day at work, anniversary and birthday to celebrate

[JamesD]

Monday- Swimming Sauna Steam room, followed by kettlebell workout and rotator cuff exercises

Tuesday- See above, went a bit heavier on the rotator cuff work this time though

Wednesday- Climbing at Mile End, started off shit, stamina/forearms felt shit from Sunday still, bizarre! Still I managed to almost flash a V2, and worked a long V2 problem, getting just past the hardest move before I ran out of steam and had to jump off before I peeled off!
Good sesh

Thursday- Swim Sauna Steam

Friday- 3 hours steadicam training/operating, so fucking tiring, imagine fast walking/light running with a 25/40kg weight vest on, with sudden changes of directions, sudden stops, and having to concentrate 100% the whole time to make sure you hold the shot.

Saturday- 1-2 hours of steadicam training.

Sunday- 4 hours of filming, it felt hardcore, my legs feel wrecked today, as does my stomach/lumbar region, hence (I hope) that excuses the lack of a core workout this week 

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Boulder 7B again, F7c this year, F8a before 2014.

M: Morning Yoga
T: Bouldering @ The works - "Crushed" a few pinks Finger's loads better though, still hurts now and again and well taped up but can actually pull on it.
W: Morning Yoga
T: Planned to climb but cycled to and from work in the rain an wasn't psyched. Went for a 5 mileish fell run round Burbage, felt surprisingly good.
F: Chill
S: Watched England... Booo! Want a Vuvuzela to piss the neighbours off now tho!
S: Planned to go to 2 tier, drove out, started raining, decided to stop at Minus 10 in case it didn't stop... It didn't stop! Good session, repeated a few things, narrowly failed to do a 7b.. Trashed! Finger held up well.... Glad we didn't walk in to cheedale in the rain, glad that we didn't cross the river in the rain, glan we didn't ab into the upper tier in the rain, glad we didn't ab out again in the rain... You get the picture!     

Good week... Finger begining to feel ok! Need to get on PE circuits now and get to Kilnsey next weekend.

:D

[Three Nine]

STG this amazing slab, Boy George, Threadbare
MTG usual Europe goals
LTG Tuppence 2011

M rest
T 45 board 2 hours, a bit of 'snap' on slopey things then set 25 move resistance circuit (8a ish?)
W 45 board 2.5 hours, tried working sections of circuit, managed 1-14 as my best link
T deadhangs, elbow a bit gay, cardio - run 30 mins
F rest
S frustrating weekend in wales without that much climbing
S as above

not an amazing week, but finished my thesis so hopefully i'll be able to do more climbing (although have to work all this week) 

[Falling Down]

STG’s – Boulder 7a and Redpoint 7a by end of June
MTG’s (End 2010) – Redpoint 7b+ (Sturgeon/Lightweight/Body Machine) & Onsight E5 (Right Wall or White Wall or Positron)
VLTG’s – Redpoint 8b, Boulder 8a.

M - am 45 minute trail/hill run with dog. pm Bouldering @ Rubicon problems to 6b/6c
T - am Gym (10min Row; PE 3 rounds/reps of 10 x 20kg BD Row, 10 BenchPress @ 45kg, 10 x BB Push Press 15kg; 10 x DL 50kg) 3 rounds 10 x ab crunches 10 x elevated press ups; 10 min row)
pm Indoor Climbing 8 routes to 6a+)
w
T - 50 pressups before work
F
S
S - Routes at Cheedale Embankment 6b+, 6c RP, 7a Dog, 7a near RP (fell in the rain)

A good week in spite of a heavy work and social schedule. 1st outings on the Lime bouldering and routing since last August. Pretty pleased with yesterdays performance as it was the first time out on a rope in the UK this year. 

[Three Nine]

STG this amazing slab, Boy George, Threadbare
MTG usual Europe goals
LTG Tuppence 2011

M rest
T 45 board 2 hours, a bit of 'snap' on slopey things then set 25 move resistance circuit (8a ish?)
W 45 board 2.5 hours, tried working sections of circuit, managed 1-14 as my best link
T deadhangs, elbow a bit gay, cardio - run 30 mins
F rest
S frustrating weekend in wales without that much climbing
S as above

not an amazing week, but finished my thesis so hopefully i'll be able to do more climbing (although have to work all this week) 

forgot: deadhangs 1 hour sunday eve

[Monolith]

Mon - Rest
Tue - Fingerboard pulls. Cleared out cobwebs with lots of pulls.
Wed - Ran 4 mile fast time on x country circuit
Thur  Back on project and got moving.
Fri - Rest
Sat - Rest
Sun - Supposed to go to Dinbren but shit loads of rain. Fingerboard tomorrow.

Nice to be properly back in action and feeling very motivated. Feel light from running and green tea consumption.

[cmerch]

Goals: 8a and V8

Mon: 5 mile run and mow the grass
Tues: 3.5 mile run with intervals, 25 min campus session
Wed: 1 mile run
Thurs: 5 mile run in am, rained out from climbing at Foster's
Fri: Climb at Foster Falls, 3 routes, 6a and 6bs
Sat: nothing, watch some World Cup, GO USA!! 
Sun:Rock Rings and capmus
OK week, good mileage on runs, slacking on climbing, VERY Hot outside

[Fiend]

Goals:
A sore topic at the moment apparently??

This week:
Mon - 2 hours hard bouldering @ Clashfucker, weak! But tried hard enough.
Tue - n/a
Wed - 3 short but pumpy trad leads @ Creag Dubh, pretty good but a bit tired and cold. "Practise" fall when I ripped a hold off, useful.
Thu - 3 long and pumpy trad leads @ Creag Dubh, pretty good overall.
Fri - 2 hours medium bouldering @ Ruthven, weak again! Hampered by skin getting absolutely buggered.
Sat - n/a
Sun - n/a

Comments:
Interesting week. Routewise I seem to be getting pumped a lot, which indicates I need to train for that, but also I seem to be getting pumped a lot, which means I AM training for that. So can't complain too much. Bouldering I am pretty rubbish at the mo, getting burnt off by gurls and such-like, although I think both skin and several days on are the issue. Keep mixing it up!
Noticably, my finger is now fine (haven't needed to tape) and my neck is okay due to better pillow usage.

[Fultonius]

Goals:
A sore topic at the moment apparently??

This week:
Mon - 2 hours hard bouldering @ Clashfucker, weak! But tried hard enough.
Tue - n/a
Wed - 3 short but pumpy trad leads @ Creag Dubh, pretty good but a bit tired and cold. "Practise" fall when I ripped a hold off, useful.
Thu - 3 long and pumpy trad leads @ Creag Dubh, pretty good overall.
Fri - 2 hours medium bouldering @ Ruthven, weak again! Hampered by skin getting absolutely buggered.
Sat - n/a
Sun - n/a

Comments:
Interesting week. Routewise I seem to be getting pumped a lot, which indicates I need to train for that, but also I seem to be getting pumped a lot, which means I AM training for that. So can't complain too much. Bouldering I am pretty rubbish at the mo, getting burnt off by gurls and such-like, although I think both skin and several days on are the issue. Keep mixing it up!
Noticably, my finger is now fine (haven't needed to tape) and my neck is okay due to better pillow usage.

Do you ever do any work 

[Falling Down]

 

[tomtom]

STG 7B+

Mon > Friday: In Moscow. Eating lots of pork products, drinking beer and getting fatter
Saturday: Morning trip to Wimberry. I felt puny. Managed a couple of 6B+'s and lost alot of Skin
Sun: nada..

[Mike Tyson]

STG is repeat the things I have done at the Bowderstone - Powerpinch, Picnic Sarcastic etc
LTG is boulder V9/7C, onsight V5/6

M- Nothing
T- Did some routes at Keswick wall. First time in years (Don't tell anyone, but I quite enjoyed it)
W- Bouldered at Keswick wall, felt ok and was fairly pleased.
T-Nowt
F- Went to the cobble and tweaked a finger, gutted.
S- Buffet, booze.
S- Buffet, booze.

Was feeling ok ,but tweaked finger sucks. Rest will sort it I am sure.

[iain]

STG: State of Play, Total Seizure
MTG: Onsight 7b
LTG: Freaky Ralph and Infinite Gravity

Mon: rest from beasting over weekend
Tues: Fingerboard and ARC
Wed: nothing
Thurs: boulder at wall, feeling ok but hard to gauge
Fri: bbq 
Sat: 5 hours of painting wood preserver onto new shed, knackered
Sun: Routes day, first time trying 3 7a+ onsights in a day, fell off all of them but on 2 due to technical incompetence rather than pump, long slappy moves where I had to have my short arse frame in the right position and didn't, then went straight to top when I did. Last one was shit so doesn't count 

Felt good at the end of the week, moving well (mostly) and climbing rate very much improved over start of the year. Even though I fell off the target routes it highlighted some technical weaknesses far better than the successes so far. Also, the failures were proper falls, not my usual gibbering taaaaaaake.

No climbing this coming weekend then some focus on the projects.

[webbo]

STG get some goals.
Mon wall good session.managed a problem that i couldn't work how to finish,found a way that was piss.rest bof it still felt hard.
Tue. nowt.
Wed.day off work as it was my 55th birthday.pissing down.went to leeds wall.did 4 x v6 and 4 x v5 which included a couple of things i couldn't touch 2 weeks ago.out for a meal in the evening.
Thu. rough.
Fri. nowt.
Sat. deadhanging.struggled to do the same session as i did last week. out on my bike 3 hours.
Sun. went to leeds wall after dropping daughter off at work.new problems no grades though.did 3 reds and all the greens.ok session.
Struggling to find some goals i.e. problems outside within a reasonable distance. 

[Charles]

Eek. Missed last week's. But to be honest, I can still remember the three moments of exercise I've had in the last two weeks. Pretty much every other day has involved copious amounts of alcohol since I finished exams.

31st May - Abortive attempt at Aplomb. Bottled second pitch after pulling a couple of holds off and generally wussing out. Probably for the best had an exam the day after.

6th June - had a run.

8th June - dragged to the Climbing Works by Toby. Despite lack of climbing and masses of drinking, still managed to get up some reasonable things. Felt quite springy.

Lots of 21st birthdays coming up in next couple o weeks but gonna try reign in the excess drinking. Hard to find motivation to go climbing when full of beer induced lethargy.

[chris05]

M: rest
T: 4m run & core
W: travel to scotland
T: 5m walk, 3.5m trail run & core
F: 6m fell run, core & bouldering at tom riach boulder
S: 5m walk
S: 6m fell run

Mainly spent seeing my parents in scotland. Great to be back up north although weather prevented doing much in the mountains. Reasonable milleage on some hard runs. Nice to get back on some probs which felt hard previously and now felt much easier. Ate way too much cake!