[shark]

Goal: Oak. 10,000 8a nu points
Weight: 11.1-4

M.CheeDale with family kids had a play on Max Wall and I did a couple of 7a's. Family went home and I stayed on at Cornice  and notched up a bit of progress on K3.
T.
W.Cornice. Good first go on K3 close to doing 3rd bolt to top. 2nd go rubbish maybe because it got humid. 
T. Comprehensive strength workout - weights and bodyweight exercises (offset pullups, maximal deadhangs, power cleans and deadlifts. Eve Went to Foundry with boys. Unwisely did a bit of bouldering and campussing.
F. Lats sore
S. Lats still sore. Cleared rubbish and rubble into a skip
S. Cornice. Got start sorted and led ground to the rail. Sussed out a better way to rest and do last hard move (ta Alex). Something went wrong with car on way back. Hope its not too expensive.

Up to Ratho at w/e for BYCS. Hopefully get back to Cornice in the evening but got a lot of work on.

[tommytwotone]

Bit of a mixed week for me - recovery from Bank Holiday laid me low, then work stress kept me out of the gym or off the road. Made up for it at the end of the week.

M - No chance as a result of drinking all weekend in London
T - Project launch 11pm - 4am. Nowt done.
W - Project launch 11pm - 1am. Nowt done.
T - Late finish at work knackered up post work climbing - did skipping / pullup / pushup session at home instead.
F - Pullup session at home.
S - 10 miles round York - felt more like running 20. In an airing cupboard.
S - Wall / Beastmaker session

[Three Nine]

STG - Boy George, Threadbare, this ace slab i saw
MTG - as usual, Europe
LTG - Tuppence 2011

M Milage up to low 7s at Ban-y-Gor, I climbed shit but covered a fair bit of ground
T rest, no cardio as chest still iffy. will start running again next week
W afternoon, power 30 degrees 1.5 hours, evening deadhangs 1 hour
T power 45 2 hours, felt strong
F rest
S the bad crag call for conditions. i am such a punter. sweated loads and achieved nothing. did scope a new crag though.
S visited Tintagel head, no big ticks and not on great form but pulled down in a v senic spot

Funny week. Really need to sort out my shitness issues. Got some plans though.

[cmerch]

Goals: 8a and V8
Mon: 7 hour drive back from beach
Tues: 4.5 mile trail run, muddy
Wed: campus for 20 min
Thurs: nothing, just work
Fri: 4.7 mile trail run
Sat: climb at Sand Rock, 4 routes, worked one 7b
Sun: fingerboard and campus, 30 min
Good week for runs, back into the climbing. Fingers feel better after having an easy week. It's good to have some time away from it every once in a while.

[Falling Down]

STG’s – Boulder 7a and Redpoint 7a by end of June;
MTG’s (End 2010) – Redpoint 7b+ (Sturgeon/Lightweight/Body Machine) & Onsight E5 (Right Wall or White Wall or Positron)
VLTG’s – Redpoint 8b, Boulder 8a.

M – 1 hour hill/trail running with dog
T – Strength Session: 10 mins row warmup 2.5k; Chest Press 190lbs 6 x 2; 10 x 25kg TGU's
W – P/E Session 10 mins row warmup 2.5k; 50 rounds 5 x Walking Lunge + 5 x Push Press (10kg). This was really hard, quite distressing for 40 minutes with everything burning and not enough oxygen.
T – Rest
F - Light recovery run/walk as very sore from Wednesdays efforts.
S - Fingerboard session - Max hangs.
S - Hungover (doh)

Had a trip to Blackpool at the weekend with the Mrs so ate and drank lots.  This weeks goals: Climb outside! ; continue building strength/PE gym sessions.

[chris05]

M: 4 mile run & core work
T: bouldering at rubicon and stoney
W: 10 mile walk (v.hot)
T: bouldering roaches
F: rest
S: hungover
S: bouldering at rubicon & 4 mile run

A good week for climbing as I've been able to take a few days off, poor week for running. Really enjoying the limestone at the moment even if it does remind me how weak I am. I'm off to Scotland to see the parents on wednesday so will post late next week.

[JamesD]

Much more productive week this week 

SSS = swim sauna steam room etc!

Monday- SSS
Tuesday- SSS
Wednesday- Bouldering at The Arch
Thursday- SSS
Friday- SSS
Saturday- Sitting in a shit load of fucking traffic followed by a few hours of bouldering at Bowles Rocks, good fun, did a couple of easyish problems, suffered from the heat big time, flagging on things that I felt like I should have nailed, found a cool dyno on an overhang that was fun, 3-4 goes at it and I was pretty much finished for the evening, did 1-2 easy problems afterwards, good stuff!
Sunday- Hardcore housework, haha! I moved an entire bedrooms worth of furniture (on my own), including a 2 seater sofa  out/around the room whilst I shampooed the carpets, I wouldn't say it was fun, but it was a damn good workout!

[petejh]

Goal - VIII, 8a, 8A, E8, in 2010.
At - IX, 7b+, 7B, E4.
Goal for June - Foulish Ghoulish (pen trwyn), Plaqued by Fools (pt), Foil/Stroll On/Quasar (pass), climb one of the two new routes I've been cleaning.

m. nowt.
t. Quick evening session in the cave.
w. Pen Trwyn. Tradding to E4, got pumped stupid by messing up the gear on Precious Time. Then almost sent Foulish.. but just too boxed at the top.
t. nowt.
f. Pen Trwyn. Sent Foulish Ghoulish first rp of the day, 5th or 6th in total. Yes.
s. Spent half a day cleaning out the horizontal overhanging crack route. What a route.
s. Recruitment training on the woodie and V9's at indi. Good session.

Good week, just got to send Plagued now, should happen soon. Battle of focus between cleaning new routes and actual climbing.

[Monolith]

Mon- Revised
Tues- Revised got drunk
Weds - Sat final exam very hungover but was saved by having written our own exam papers and knew it inside out
Thurs - Lay on the grass all day. First day off all academic year really.
Fri - Went on fingerboard and cleared out the cobwebs. Almost got pumped from first three pulls on medium rung. Got into swing eventually and felt sore next day.
Saturday - Did one fast lap of 4 mile x country circuit. Pleasantly surprised at pace considering heat and not running for two weeks.
Sunday - Rolled around in bed all day after ladyfriend's birthday meal.

Glad to be able to resume normal service and training hard for project. Hopefully black coffee and running will make me 4 stone.

[roddersm]

STG Goals:

Trad: Pitchfork Wit E1, Birdie, sightseer both E2,(All Muckross).
Rail Road E1, Marconi E3 5c, Jolly Roger E3 (Fairhead), Zodiac E2 5c, Thank you and goodbye E3 6a (Culdaff)
Boulder: Chubbs Peterson 7a(+?) Fairhead , Carbide 7a Left Overs 7a+ Fairhead, Split arete 6b+
sport onsight 7a somewhere. debelof 6c+ and biscott margerine 6b+ and lots of other good routes in the verdon.

LTG's:
Trad: E5 o\s
Sport: Onsight 7b. rp 7c. Climb lots of stuff in Verdon, Ceuse,Buoux and Siurana.
Boulder: at least 7C .
Big Wall: the Nose on El Cap. Astroman. Lotus Flower tower.

Mon  Bouldering at Polladoo glen. Tried Split Arete 6b+/E4, surely one of the best problems in Ireland. Got rained of and it was a bit overgrown but I'll be back!
Tue   Run 45 min..
Wed  Climbing wall session 1 hr.
Thur  Climbing wall session 1.5 hours bouldering.
Fri     Rest.
Sat   Muckross easy trad. Arrived late.  1 Severe solo, 2 HS and a E1 5c.
Sun  Muckross more easy trad. 1 Severe, Have an epic on the hardest VS in the world and then solo the easyiest E2 in the world. Think about getting on something a bit harder but opt to head home as its getting late.

Better than last week. Training motivation is still low but I suppose it's that time of year. The rest of Ireland was at the Fairhead meet (I look forward to my pal Chillaxs reports of this) so I opted for a chilled out weekend at Muckross to try and further blow away the trad cobwebs. Was also a bit upset after I was attacked on one of the climbing forums for taking part in a thread to do with bouldering ethics and potential chipping at my local bouldering area and didn't want to talk any more about it, however a private show of support from a very respected climber confirmed to me that I wasn't the one who was out of order. No big ticks but starting to enjoy climbing again, which is the main thing isn't it? Psyched to get back to do Split Arete, only highball 6b+ or route E4 but awseome, a bit like a harder version of crescente arete! Need to crank up a gear and tick some of the E2s and E3s, onsight of course  , at Muckross and my local crags. But for now will go with the flow and not put as much pressure on coming away from the crags with "big ticks".
 

[Barratt]

STG: Be able to climb (and try hardish) in the Lakes. FAIL!
LTG: Consolidate 7a, bag some 7b's

Mon: Rehab
Tues: Nowt
Wed: Rehab and first time back on the board, it felt very hard.
Thurs: Nowt
Fri: Drive to Lakes
Sat: Climb at Eskdale (couldn't try hard)
Sun: Climb at Little Font (couldn't try hard and felt as weak as a very weak thing)

Disappointing to not be able to try as hard as i'd have liked but on a more positive note the shoulder injury seems to be recovering nicely. I feel that this week I can step up the training a little bit more.

[andybfreeman]

STG - 1 more week of training then taper for Spain. Crush in Spain!
MTG - the cider soak and just revenge @ anstey's. Climb 7B or harder in the forest this winter including Onde du Choc
LTG - more progression on routes, consolidate at 8a thenonwards and upwards. Boulder 7C etc

M - mileage day at Ban-Y-Gor. unlike anywhere else that I've climbed so educational. nothing harder than 7a+ but got plenty done
T - circuits at TCA
W - circuits at TCA + got distracted by some new yellows but did manage to flash all that i tried
Th- rest
F - rest
Sa - Anstey's, went to try and do CS in 3 and if that happended try a redpoint or two. Got shut down in fairly spectacular style, partly conditions (hot and humid) partly me being shit
Su - bouldering at Tintagel. nice venue, almost flashed Purple haze then spent  half a dozen goes failing and getting more pissed off before finally ticking it. got close to an extension to a 6C (prob 7B ish) but failed on last 2 moves after spending too much time and energy working out the best sequence

Weight = averaged 66.6 last week and 66.1 this morning. Aim to scrub another kilo off in the next 2 weeks ready to crush in Spain

[chris_j_s]

Simon, isn't it week 17 this week?

Weight: 60kg

Aims for 2010: rp 7b+ sport, o/s 6c+ sport, 7A+ boulder.

M: Routes at Gigg North. Onsighting up to 6c (3rd 6c onsight now).
T: Meant to go bouldering but got stuck for hours in traffic. Arrived home v. late feeling uninspired but decided I had to do something so tried the 'burner' that Steve Mac mentioned in his column in Climb... 50 press ups, 50 sit ups and 50 pull ups  in sets of 10. As near to 5 minutes as you can is the aim. Did it in immense pain in 6 mins 10secs! Took 10 mins to rest and tried it again. Almost dead at the end and only managed 8 pull ups on the final set but did it in 6mins 15 secs.
W: Rest day. I really, really hurt from yesterdays exertions!
T: Shocked to find I'm still in pain from Tues but tried to do another set of the burner. Every sit up felt like being stabbed (think this might be an indication that I need to do a bit more core work!). Did it in 7mins 15 secs and collapsed. Absolutely no chance of another go!
Fri - Sun: At a mates wedding. So basically drank and ate too much!   

Need to do more actual climbing rather than killing myself with other exercises this week but have a feeling that the weather might conspire against it... Some time set aside to focus on core might be valuable too.

[Three Nine]

Su - burnt my mate off in trainers

[webbo]

Mon.due to go to northumberland with mate who crys off to fix his mothers plumbing.go anyway visit 3 crags that i decide are too shit to climb on end up at rothley which is in  full sun by now.try to warm up,think about sacking it off as i feel i've lost the will to live never mind climb.luckily find a 7a which i do first go after dogging the moves in my trainers.drive home 3 hours.
Tue.do nowt apart from complain about my sunburnt neck.
Wed. wall just repeat stuff.do harder problems twice.
Thu.bike one and half hours.
Fri.bike to work and back 50 mins each way.
Sat. can't think of any where to climb in the heat.do deadhanging session.felt quite strong,might need to add more weight on two handed stuff.3 hour hilly bike ride.
Sun.pissing down and hangover.

[andybfreeman]

Su - burnt my mate off in trainers

modesty (and knowing that it'd come back to haunt me!) stopped me gloating but as you brought i up

[Duncan Disorderly]

Bugger... Keep forgetting to fill this in... Must slack off more and work less (sorry Simon, sir!)

M: Sun salutations.
T: Bouldering @ The works - Finger held up well, did some pinks and comp wall stuff up to 7a..ish.. Finger was sore but worked!
W: Chill.
T: Sun salutations, bouldering @ Gardoms... Pointless sweaty midgefest! Ate Kebab!
F: Nowt
S: Routes at Horseshite - Nice to get back on the string. Did a 6a+, a 6b, a 6b+ and trproped a 7a. Done em all before but good to see how the fingr held up on the slimestone... Just gotta tape like f*ck on owt over 6b+!
S: Hungover (DJ'd at dancehall and reggae night in the Hud)!

:D

[Richie Crouch]

Goals for 2010: In Hell (cave), Never Ending Story pt 1 (Magic Wood), T Crack (cratcliff)

M: Rest
T: Llanberis pass, shit conditions i.e rain, mist and muggy humidity! Managed cave route and roadside basic and felt ridiculously pumped after both. Worked Diesel power but found the holds really greasy and I felt like I had no body tension at all. Got new beta dialed on Mr Fantastic just after the 'crux' move which saves a lot of energy!
W: Rest
T: some short problems on woody then Fingerboard maximal hangs, 1st joint 1 arm deadhangs are back again (weirdly my still injured left arm is twice as strong at this?!), lots of leg raises and knee together ones.
F: Alcohol
S: BBQ, no alcohol!
S: P.E. circuits on woody and campus board. Very grim conditions on the board, I felt totally drained/unfit.

[Monolith]

Hess master, are you overtraining by any chance? Sounding suspiciously like it of late. I also thought you did T Crack or have you now sent 6 F 8as in the time you've been simultaneously trying it. What a bugbear!

[Nibile]

easy but good week.
mon - weights, full session.
tue - weights, back. then bouldering indoors on moderates. good vibes.
wed - friend's wedding (the second...). lots of red wine, pork and pecorino cheese with honey.
thu - rest.
fri - drove to the dolomites.
sat - "spigolo maestro" at catinaccio group. excellent.
sun - bouldering at città dei sassi. excellent.

comments: the elbow is getting better. good power with the weights, started training the back with super sets. the weekend was the fucking shit. 

[iain]

STG: State of Play, Total Seizure
MTG: Onsight 7b
LTG: Infinite Gravity, Freaky Ralph

Mon:  ???
Tues:  ???
Wed: Fingerboard, assisted one-armers
Thurs: Fingerboard, fall practice and route mileage
Fri: Drive to Peaks
Sat: Stanage Plantation, great day out, nothing too challenging but did loads, footwork is much better than last time I was there, mantles still being done without anything resembling technique
Sun: The Works before driving home. I so miss having a good wall nearby.

Hopefully getting on State of Play this weekend but not feeling too optimistic about getting it due to lack of bolts over last month.

Although I've just had two great weekends away been feeling very lethargic and unpsyched for the training recently, lots of projects and things I want to do but life and stuff mean I haven't been able to get on them. Struggling to deal with that.

Congrats to Monolith on finishing the exams.

[Davo]

Monday: Rested

Tuesday: Ended up at Cave but felt tired and un-psyched. Worked Pilgrim a bit more and a few more odds and sods but overall a waste of a drive.

Wednesday: Rested

Thursday: Kilnsey, tried Full Tilt and got all moves sorted. Did a 7a to warm down and then top roped it for a workout.

Friday: Rested

Saturday: Cheedale, warmed up at Max Wall with a 7a. Then headed over to Two Tier. Plan was to crush Entree but it was desperate and no one could touch it. So managed a 7c called Why Me which was great.

Sunday: Bit hungover but headed to chee dale and Max Wall again. Fell off 6c+ warm up but managed a 7b called max-a-million which had a brilliant and unlikely dyno in it.

Overall a good week but took a while to recover from the weekend. Full Tilt was good and I think has become my next project. Enjoyed climbing on Peak slimestone and the bouldery nature of things.

[shark]

Saturday: Cheedale, warmed up at Max Wall with a 7a. Then headed over to Two Tier.Plan was to crush Entree but it was desperate and no one could touch it.

Bit humid on Saturday for that sort of route I expect

[nai]

s/mtg  - climb lots up to E4 & 7something
ltg - 7C next winter

M - zip
T - couple of hours at Rubicon  - surprised to make progress on The Press after four weeks RnR.
W - Almscliff trad, also dropped in for an hour at Caley on the way for some classic blocs, should have flashed New Jerusalum but had to settle for 2nd go.
Th - Active rest day, couple of V-Diffs at Stanage with Mrs (was glad of a rope on one of them).
F - Rivelin trad, lead three E2s (albeit soft ones), feels like progress.  Good day.
SS - family

Good week, more of the same would be nice if the rain stops.

[Fiend]

Goals:
Move up one trad grade this summer.

This week:
Mon - 1 failed attempt on a steep trad route - sucked, got too pumped, missed crucial gear, cross. Maybe tired after previous day.
Tue - n/a
Wed - n/a
Thu - 2 failed attempts on hard trad routes, including getting so pumped I couldn't hang on, partly disappointing but partly good to go beyond my limit / 1 1/2 hours hard walking, utterly fucking desperate.
Fri - 3 steady but steep trad routes, good to get some easier mileage in / 5 minutes larking around in icy sea, refreshing.
Sat - 1 easy warm up, 3 diverse and challenging trad routes, very good, climbed well and was challenged in many ways / 30 mins walking, not bad.
Sun - 3 supposedly steady trad routes, still quite tricky and diverse, good / sore neck from too much driving.

Comments:
A good trad week that started badly and ended well, with both good climbs and good challenges. Definitely an all-round stamina/fitness training week too, loads of getting pumped and some brutal walking. Getting leaner and meaner which is good. Finger is now completely fine. Neck and shoulder improved, better if I keep moving. On and off weights sessions have helped. Going to keep mixing things up with sport and bouldering.

[andy popp]

The week before, which I couldn't do as I was away; 1 swim, 1 appalling board session that I quickly switched to weighted pulls, 1 weighted fingerboard, crunches/pushups most days, no climbing. Thumbs down.

Then have to take week off due to half-term and absence of childcare, so:
Sun-Wed: London sightseeing (exhausted and broke)
Thurs: Work all day and eve.
Fri-Sun: Amsterdam, v. fine

Need to get back on the game (again)

[chillax]

STG: Onsight Fair Head E3
MTG: Onsight E4, Boombastic
LTG: Climb E7

Mon: Lots of pullups and pushups
Tues: Rest
Wed: Rest
Thurs: Start of 5 day Fair Head binge. Led the first pitch of an E2, seconded some routes up to hard E3
Fri: Backed off the scary second pitch of a big E2. Led a classic E1, Fireball, seconded E1 and E3
Sat: Got spanked on an old school sandbag E1 offwidth. Must get better at offwidths. Seconded a tricky E1.
Sun: Led a soft E1, seconded a hard E1
Mon: Led an awesome 50m long E1 chimney.

Not big grades, but the routes here are bloody strenuous. Still completely knackered after it all. Feels like I'm slowly getting the hang of this jamming business though. E3 onsight by the end of the summer is feasible. Need lots of mileage on E1's and 2's first though I think.

[Willriseley]

I wanna join in

M: 100 push ups/100sit ups in sets of 20, Curls and wrist extensions, 50 pull ups
T: Indoor wall for 3 hours mainly overhang,roof stuff pretty intense
W: 100 push ups/100sit ups in sets of 20, Curls and wrist extensions, 50 pull ups
T: Indoor wall for 4 hours again roof stuff pretty hard (arms were wrecked)
F:100 push ups/100sit ups in sets of 20, Curls and wrist extensions, 50 pull ups and 2 miles on road bike
S: Fuck all
S:100 push ups/100sit ups in sets of 20, Curls and wrist extensions, 50 pull ups , then hit the wall for 4 1/2 hours relaxed easy climbing

Seems i have a pretty shit week layed out hey? should be getting on the bike soon more and using it for work so that will be like a 4mile round trip on bike EVERY day

[JamesD]

Welcome to the powerclub mate 

Probably worth sticking this in tomorrows powerclub thread as well, hopefully get back out on the sandstone again soon, really wanted to go tomorrow but it's my grans birthday bash lol.

[Willriseley]

yeah ill chuck it in, they get put up on a sunday then? sandstone soon although i got a duff elbow and middle finger so kinda having a little break, Well 2 days