[a dense loner]

bouncymat i'm betting that ure not a small guy? it is easier for a big guy to close a coc than a smaller guy, generally speaking of course. i think they do have their uses, if ure climbing a lot they're not needed but if not then they're a good tool. hastons got a few, thats good enough for me

[Houdini]

The problem w/ offering this kind of advice is that people are lazy and unprepared to go the distance w/ training.  See, if clm had spent 4 or 5 months a year labouring w/ a brickie hammer on old Welsh cottages too fragile to use a kanga drill lest they fall down, or be able to skip rapidly for 20 minutes non-stop 7 times a week - he'd know a thing or two about pinch strength.  Alas ...




edit spelling

[bouncymat]

dense - your not wrong, it is possible that the pies are affecting my climbing.

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

bouncymat i'm betting that ure not a small guy? it is easier for a big guy to close a coc than a smaller guy, generally speaking of course. i think they do have their uses, if ure climbing a lot they're not needed but if not then they're a good tool. hastons got a few, thats good enough for me

aye i consider myself quite weak on pinches comparatively speaking and for me i believe this is at least partially related to relatively small hands,(probably also accounts for my sloper strength being poor also (surface area and that))

this was reemphasized yesterday when a friend of mine came a lot closer to closing my CoC no1 than i can without a warmup. and he considers himself similar to me tends to crimp everything and weaker grips being pinches and slopers.

i reckon working this grip should help me a lot although im willing to admit i dont expect performance gains on the CoC to be 100% transferable but I expect it to make some translation to pinches, after all there are lots of differing pinch grips and many centre around the finger tips and the thumb being in contact with the rock, whereas the CoC is mostly trained using the strongest method which is the handles against the middles of the fingers and the palm of the hand.

Cheers
Tim

[rodma]

aye i consider myself quite weak on pinches comparatively speaking and for me i believe this is at least partially related to relatively small hands,(probably also accounts for my sloper strength being poor also (surface area and that))

this was reemphasized yesterday when a friend of mine came a lot closer to closing my CoC no1 than i can without a warmup. and he considers himself similar to me tends to crimp everything and weaker grips being pinches and slopers.

i reckon working this grip should help me a lot although im willing to admit i dont expect performance gains on the CoC to be 100% transferable but I expect it to make some translation to pinches, after all there are lots of differing pinch grips and many centre around the finger tips and the thumb being in contact with the rock, whereas the CoC is mostly trained using the strongest method which is the handles against the middles of the fingers and the palm of the hand.

Cheers
Tim

What weight are you? Up here in the burgh, we found most peeps could close the coc that was closest to their weight. eg I had no issues with the No1, but couldn't close the 1.5, but a couple of bigger guys who climb at a similar level easily closed the 1.5, but were shut down on the No2

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

What weight are you? Up here in the burgh, we found most peeps could close the coc that was closest to their weight. eg I had no issues with the No1, but couldn't close the 1.5, but a couple of bigger guys who climb at a similar level easily closed the 1.5, but were shut down on the No2

Hi Mate,
 i'm around 67KG  and 5'9
67KG translates to 147lbs, so that puts me as i figured in the weak pinch grip for weight category.

guide = 60
Sport = 80
Trainer = 100lb
CoC1 = 140
CoC1.5 = 167.5
CoC2 = 195
CoC2.5 = 237.5

Tim

[superfurrymonkey]

Closing grips in the usual manner will get your hands strong but not be very specific to pinch strength. I have COC no2 and can close them but what I use for pinch strength are plastic handle ones that go at about 32 lbs, I turn these upside down and close them between thumb and fingertips, feels more specific to pinching. I've also put some blocks of wood above the beastmaker and do pinch deadhangs.

[Stubbs]

blah blah blah - he'd know a thing or two about pinch strength.  Alas ...

Does this actually have any crossover into climbing, i.e. did this skipping and labouring actually get you up some hard pinch problems? Or did skipping and labouring just get easier?