[hardtofollow]

The Peak Bouldering Guides a bit vague about this one. Are there designated footholds like for Quent's Dyno? And is it meant to go to the break or to the sloper??? any info on what footholds are good would be much appreciated  :

[Kim]

The Peak Bouldering Guides a bit vague about this one. Are there designated footholds like for Quent's Dyno? And is it meant to go to the break or to the sloper??? any info on what footholds are good would be much appreciated  :

it goes to the big spikey jug - there are designated footholds (apparently it's much easier if you use anything -  I've not done it but dave wil give you the knowledge when he sees this I expect

[dave]

it goes to the big spikey jug - there are designated footholds (apparently it's much easier if you use anything -  I've not done it but dave wil give you the knowledge when he sees this I expect

kim i think you are thinking of Quents not george's wall.

georges wall supposedly goes to the sloper, but everyone i've met who's done it (including me) went to the break since that seems the natural and easiest thing to do - no idea why the "original" goes to the sloper - maybe johnny could't get the break, or he just wanted to make it harder. No specific footholds, but there are only about 3 to choose from anyway (get em high). enjoy.

[Kim]

kim i think you are thinking of Quents not george's wall.

indeed:

Are there designated footholds like for Quent's Dyno?

[dave]

i think he's using the word "like" in its official useage, not like totally like a more like modern-USA-like totally teenage way, what ever.

[Kim]

oops.

i am unbelievably hungover, so having difficulty reading....

[LJ]

what footholds are in for quents then, i thnk i went with both feet in the horizontal break, maybe, memory is a bit hazy

[dave]

yeah laurie that what everyone does cos its the obvious thing to do from the rockfax description - which is why it feels about B6!

according to the old peak myres guide (and from memory) i think theres a low cluster of knobbles for right outside edge, and the pollished crack edge level with this for left foot - never got round to trying it like this, clearly it a lot harder.

[LJ]

That sounds far too anal! But i guess thats limestone eliminates! Gonna leave the tick in place anyhow, moves are k-wality with feet in break anyway, although B6 souns about right, although did this easier than young american, that bastard managed to fuck my wrist up!

[ian h]

i spoke to johnny about this problem once. he stated that he did not know how it came about that he did the first ascent. but he aknowledged quint fisher had done it first.

he went on to say quint had done it from specified low footholds which is why he went to the sloper.

i however used whatever footholds (high) and then dynoed to the break as i could not get the sloper.

[ian h]

i also heard that the kirton dyno should be done double handed although it does not state that in the guide.

the young american looks different the way moon does it one summer to the holds listed in the guide.

[dave]

i've seen kirton done double - don't look much harder.

i've always done YA starting at the jug flake, double to opposing sides of the block, then double for top. feet on smears. seen some do it missing the block sidepulls, which seems to be missing the point!

[ian h]

yeah done the kirton both ways, tis a little harder but not a great deal.

totally agree that if you miss the sides of the block tis missing point

[fatboySlimfast]

let an old man advise you with his words of wisdom....
'young american' is start as you say dave but o.g goes to jug at top double style, 'missing the point' maybe but the original way!

Also anyone claiming one arm bandit with there feet in the break can get there tippex out cos it uses the two shit polished thin edges above the break.
You see this is what happens when approved sequences are ignored anarchy

[Kim]

Also anyone claiming one arm bandit with there feet in the break can get there tippex out cos it uses the two shit polished thin edges above the break.

bloody hell, minus 10 is even more anal than I thought!!  :wink:

Come on then you old limestone gurus, how do you do the JA?? Never seen anyone even manage to pull off the ground! I swear it's impossible...

[fatboySlimfast]

J.A oh my god, run , run away
'pocket'(i use the term loosely!!) wit left, pinchy sprag thing with right
feet on smear hucking your right foot into break and rock for next break....easy uh
Saw quent almost do it once, and saw danny B. do the hard bit only to fall out of the break
No bullshit the left hand side of that pocket has got a lip on it (sometime in the early 90's) which never was there!!!! :shock: Although the footholds have got worse to compensate.

[dave]

Also anyone claiming one arm bandit with there feet in the break can get there tippex out cos it uses the two shit polished thin edges above the break.

excellent news - might make it slightly challenging now! i'm psyched.

[hongkongstuey]

low cluster of knobbles for right outside edge, and the pollished crack edge level with this for left foot.

thats the way i first did it - more often than not these days i'll step through with the right on the way up to give an extra bit of push - makes it one hell of alot easier, and it seems to onlookers not in the 'know' that you've just effortlessly breezed up an enormous dyno  :twisted:

i've always done YA starting at the jug flake, double to opposing sides of the block, then double for top. feet on smears. seen some do it missing the block sidepulls, which seems to be missing the point!

i always thought it missed out the sidepulls (far more fun this way) - using them always seemed like an easy cop out (the way its shown on One Summer is just as one big move)

[dobbin]

Do you start where the left hand is here?



rest of the photos

[fatboySlimfast]

yes, and its double, none of your single handed jessery please

[hongkongstuey]

i seem to recall it being a lot easier if you push with the right foot too!

[a dense loner]

while we're at it... right foot on the polished pebble not the foot ledge  3inches to the right. we r at stoney after all  :!:  i've said it once n i'll say it again georges goes off the big hold 'G', it doesn't go off the big hold n the big sidepull to the left. we r at stoney after all  :!:

[Paz]

Anarchy rules then.  Not owning a copy of Myers' guide or one summer and never having met anyone in real life who knows 'the approved sequence'', if you just want the GLT in the rockfax, then the rules in the rockfax apply, i.e. any feet.  If those rules are wrong, then that's another short coming of the guidebook for the publishers to sort out, nowt to do with me.  When you go to someone elses house at christmas and find they play completely different rules to monopoly you don't start playing it their way at home.  I'm not pretending I'm as good as Mr Q Fisher or Mr Kirten (especially as I've not done that one yet dammit), I know a little history.  I will of course keep quiet of the when in the presence of gods of 'shit polished edges' like yourselves, but I'm keeping both my left and right goddamn one arm bandit ticks.

[Stu Littlefair]

Face facts Paz - time to get out that eraser.  :roll: