[Bonjoy]

Pedigree Chum - hard 8c+(sport grade). Good to see this long established project finally get done. First clean by Iain Farrar in the mid 90s, since tried by various folk inluding Welford, Simpson and McClure.
From 8a.nu: "Mcclure came sooo close on Sat, hardest thing I've done, could be 9a maybe? Get on it while its in condition"
Effort that man! 

[dave]

awesome, news of the decade.
 

Out of interest, whats the boulder problem grade (since its a boulder problem)?

[Jaspersharpe]

Fuckinell, that's impressive.

[nik at work]

Nice one.

Dave you crack me up.

[Doylo]

simmo certainly rated it as very good and hard. A cracking lime traverse 

Effort Smit.

[Ethan]

Bon effort!! such a cool place, the holds look awesome.

[uptown]

Very very good - Iain will be pleased someone has finally released his 'best friend'.
A quality piece of climbing, on quality rock, in a quality setting - doesn't really sound like the Peak does it? 
It'll be interesting to see if this shuffling lark catches on.

[Serpico]

It'll be interesting to see if this shuffling lark catches on.

Haven't you heard? sideways is the new up.

Nice work Smitt.

[butterworthtom]

Out of interest where is this dog's dinner traverse?

[dave]

Its at dog's dinner buttress.

[butterworthtom]

A quick google search brought up a lump of rock with a few v1's on at Shipley Glen? Is this the one?

[shark]

A quick google search brought up a lump of rock with a few v1's on at Shipley Glen? Is this the one?

Not even close. Its across the river and up the bank opposite the left hand side of the Cornice in Chee Dale.

[butterworthtom]

Didn't think so. I figured it would probably be some kind of lime stone savagery.

[uptown]

Some pictures on 8a.




I think it was 1998 when Iain first cleaned and started working this. He was very strong then (and light!)
Ironically he said he was going to go out yesterday to try it again after an 8 year break, before he found out Mr S had done it.
He added that it was...
"good to see the young pups taking interest in the old dogs projects...maybe I'll have to get fit for the extension! Ruff ruff..."
 

[Andy Harris]

Crabtastic effort Paul! Remember checking this out many moons ago and it indeed looked very good on surprisingly good quality rock and from what i remember quite good holds, just steep and long. Good to see someone pursuing the horizontal, staright ups are totally overated. I'm guessing it would way in around Font 8b, maybe a touch harder?

It seems like when Cheedale was formed the cornice side was the weak point that broke and everything on the other side was far superior in terms of rock quality. There's pretty much no sika on that side of the dale but the cornice, nook,embankment is held together by it.

Seems like this could be a contender for hardest peak traverese although steve thought the boyband/staminaband link was as hard or harder than his 9a's at the time. However in my opinion they all pale into insignificance against Lothlorian & Leviathan. These are seriously hard and long and involve some abysmal holds, especially the end of Lothlorian. This was way ahead of it's time and is surely undergraded at Font 8b+.

Is it me or is that photo back to front? Always rememebr it being a right to left?

[dave]

I think that photo is right in terms of the lie of the land.

[Andy Harris]

So he climbed it left to right then?

[Teaboy]

I've often wondered why bouldering down here isn't more popular, the left end of the Cornice (around Monumental) has always looked ripe for development with not bad landings. I know the last couple of years its been soaking but previously its been pretty reliable and reliably cool down there, maybe there are no holds?

[dave]

I've often wondered why bouldering down here isn't more popular, the left end of the Cornice

I know the last couple of years its been soaking

Plus its a long walk in to find out its filthy, flooded, or soaked.

[pete b]

So he climbed it left to right then?

How do you know what direction he's going from the photo? Is there a subtle cue that I'm missing?

[Mike Tyson]

It looks from his body position that he is coming through to the undercut with his left too me.

[Stubbs]

looks like left to right

[Andy Harris]

Exactly I've asumed that based on the way it looks he's moving. I'd always asumed it would be a right to left, but that's only because that's the direction you come in to the crag from.

I've done a tiny bit of bouldering below monumental a long time ago and there is some potential but the nature of the holds in that area were fairly holdless. I'm not sure what Cornice teaboy has been goint to but that section, especially lower has been wet for years, even when the rest of the crag was dry back in the mid 90's.

John W did have a tasty looking project direct start to nemesis that might go better as a boulder problem. The problem is cleaning it so it gets a chance to dry. We'd thought about lugging down a generator and jet wash to clean it (Tim Clifford and some friend did this to a boulder in Squamish called teh Swamp Thing boulder and turned it from a swam to a minty clean boulder. But concerns about getting it down there and not being nicked came up.

[Doylo]

left to right

[Teaboy]

Plus its a long walk in to find out its filthy, flooded, or soaked.

I was climbing at the Cornice once when two lads went walking past (from Wormhill direction) with pads on their backs, they never said anything and carried on walking. An hour later they came back and asked where Raven Tor was, apparently they'd asked someone at Miller's Dale where it was and were told to follow the river 

  Sorry

[Somebody's Fool]

Nice one Smitton!

[clm]

foliage dab

[Bonjoy]

I think it makes more sense and has always been tried as a left to right traverse.
I did notice the other day that someone has semi clean the obvious good looking highball prob under the start of Taylor Made (LH Cornice), just need it to dry out now. looks like it will be a cracker.
I reckon the jet wash idea is a winner. once the tunnels are open it won't be such an epic task to lug all the gear down there....

[Mark Lloyd]

There are portable jet washes for bikes now that run off rechargable batteries, might be the ticket, just don't let the wildlife trust spot you.

[dave]

i recon when the tide is in you could raft in from buxton end.

[Ethan]

Thought about the jet-washer idea too for cleaning Nemesis, deffo seems like the way, or some kind of pump from the river...

[clm]

There are portable jet washes for bikes now that run off rechargable batteries, might be the ticket, just don't let the wildlife trust spot you.

I think theyll twig anyway when they see the massive white stripe down the crag.
What exactly is coming off? Is it plantlife or just that weird limey crud that seems to contain a lot of cobweb? They can't complain too much about the latter. Its only water after all.

[Nibile]

that's a great great effort!
bestia.

[Andy Harris]

Does it go fully to the right end of the crag (finishing on an obvious hold) or does it finish up one of the up problems. How long / many moves is it?

[casa]

Nice little write up regarding this on Mr McClure's blog

[slackline]

Nice little write up regarding this on Mr McClure's blog

...which can be read here

 

[Doylo]

[robertostallioni]

Nice one Chris. 

[uptown]

Does it go fully to the right end of the crag (finishing on an obvious hold) or does it finish up one of the up problems. How long / many moves is it?

It starts at the top of the lefthand bank and finishes at the top of the righthand bank, so traversing the entire buttress. Although Steve said it's still 8c+ to the 'rest' where Paul climbed up to the higher finishing traverse (this is where the low extension will push it to 9a+). Too long with too many moves for most, though it breaks down into 4 (or 5) distinct sections with 'rests' in between.
Doyle - nice vid but stay away from me with your reportage if I'm ever red-pointing hard - I couldn't handle the interview/climbing combo as well as Steve did!

[Doylo]

Doyle - nice vid but stay away from me with your reportage if I'm ever red-pointing hard - I couldn't handle the interview/climbing combo as well as Steve did!

Ha ha, i was surprised how chatty he was. must be cos it wasn't a 'proper go'

[casa]

Fook me he's got some serious back muscle action when he climbs past Doylo @ approx.7min. Mr Mutation by christ!!!

[JC]

Mcclure completed the 9a/+ version today   

[Doylo]

 

[boulderingbacon]

nice effort looks sick. i was wondering when the traverse is as long as that do you use the same sequence every time you attempt to do it or do you just make your way across as you feel.

[MrF]

nice effort looks sick. i was wondering when the traverse is as long as that do you use the same sequence every time you attempt to do it or do you just make your way across as you feel.

at that grade, I can't imagine you are spoilt for options!

[dave]

ditto that - its not gonna be like the broomgrove road traverse.

[lukeyboy]

Nothing like being heckled as you climb 9a+... "You gonna get a bat hang in here Steve?"

[slackline]

Steve McClure has linked the low-level traverse saying "Keeping low is the only rule and its much harder than the original." 

[dave]

...The first half makes up an amazing section in its own rite.....

EPIC GRAMMAR FAIL
 

[uptown]

Great effort - this shuffle should become a rite of passage for potential wads. I for one really appreciate Steves honesty in admitting he can't tell how hard 'easy' climbing is anymore - the extension is somewhere between v9 and v11. 

[SA Chris]

Next step is to do a Malcolm and skip the rests.

[clm]

Hope he didn't dab as much 1.55 - 2.02 when he did the proper ascent.

[Ru]

the extension is somewhere between v9 and v11.

There's a special grade to describe this level of difficulty. V10.

[Jaspersharpe]

the extension is somewhere between v9 and v11.

There's a special grade to describe this level of difficulty. 7C+.

 

[220bpm]

All hail Steve Mac 

Legend.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

After some discussion with mrjohnathanr at the crag today, I'm going to start lobbying for a change of name for this traverse to:

Bonzo Dog Doo-Dah Band

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bonzo_Dog_Doo-Dah_Band

Thoughts anyone?

[Moo]

I think your a mad man