[Fiend]

POWER!! We all know it, we all love it, some of us have it, some of us don't....but we're all trying to get more, right??

Goals:
Eradicate the pestilent plague of top-roping non-cutting-edge routes, preferably via violent and uncouth means.
Find the gnarliest jamming cracks in Scotland to send Lyons up.

This week:
Mon - n/a
Tue - n/a / neck v. sore / bit of gentle massage
Wed - n/a / neck v. sore
Thu - n/a / neck v. sore and annoying
Fri - n/a / steady weights session / neck a bit better
Sat - 1 hour weights session (good) / 3 hours mixed walking (tiring but good) / 1 hour easy bouldering (rubbish, tired) / neck better
Sun - n/a / gentle stroll / neck better

Comments:
Bugger all climbing this week, bloody annoying sore neck this week, but finally sorted it out by a good bit of cross training at the weekend. Bit frustrated I couldn't get out and do routes (nor even decent bouldering), but Sat probably did me more good overall than a proper climbing session. Very keen to get tradding next week.

[chillax]

STG: Onsight Fair Head E3, lead the second pitch of Salango, Decent front lever, Project at Murlough
MTG: Onsight E4
LTG: Climb E7

Mon: Onsighted 1st pitch of Salango, followed 2nd pitch. Felt tricky but I can do it this summer.
Tues: A sneaky lunchtime pint with a friend evolved into 14hrs of alcohol fuelled badness. 
Wed: Sobered up on early train down to dublin. Good bouldering wall session.
Thurs: Dalkey. Had a play on some projects. Could do some moves I couldn't touch before, but couldn't do stuff I found easy last sept. Ho hum. Then had a good bouldering session doing lots of laps on brit 6a problems. Fun.
Fri: Nowt.
Sat: Nowt part 2
Sun: Bouldering at lough bray. Did a 7a arete in a session, which isn't bad as 7a is the hardest i've ever bouldered and it was about 22 degrees out in the shade. Nice to see some improvement.

[tommytwotone]

STGs: Font 7b, Great North Run in sub 2 hour time.

Not a great weeks climbing-wise, long hours, stress and then boiling hot weekend have meant v little got done.

M - 5k on treadmill in gym in 23 mins
T - Nowt
W - 7k round York
T - Nowt, went out for leaving do after work
F - Nowt as a result of stressful day with hangover
S - Not a great deal, wayyy too hot. BBQ at mate's house in eve.
S - 5k run to pick up car from other side of York at about 2pm - nearly died.

[tomtom]

STG 7b+

M: nothing
T: Almscliff.. got up nothing, worked underhand
W: rest
T: Start some one arm training on the Beastmaker..
F: Earlyish to a sticky Gardoms north (first visit).. had a good (and nearly successful) play on Marks roof LH. Well worth a return visit.
S: Rest, Drink, BBQ
S: Evening trip to Brownstones (first visit).. not as greasefest as it could have been.. fairly good session, fingers feel burnt out... (in a good way).

A much better week than previously - back to more routine and feeling stronger.

[shark]

Thanks for starting thread Fiend

Goal: Oak. 10,000 8a nu points
Weight: 11.6-3

M.Climbing at Tres Ponts. Travel back late.
T. Lunch DB complex warmup offset pullups on edges and assisted 1 arm deadhangs. Eve Foundry with kids. Some campussing.
W. Lunch. Fingery endurance? Eve Foundry with son bouldering on Wave.
T.
Thurs Night / Fri morning - smitten with norovirus or similar
F. Spend most of day in bed
S. Tor tried the Toilet / Chee Dale cornice re-opened account with K3 
S. Painting garage door. Late eve 30 mins Fingerboard 

Returned from Spain tired but determined to catch up on strength training. Caught a stomach bug off the kids on Thurs night which wiped me out on Fri but felt better by the evening. Good to get down the Cornice again - twas like the ol' days. Guts still in turmoil. On the plus side expect to weigh in at a year low tomorrow

[cmerch]

Goals: 8a and V8
Mon: 5 mile run, mow grass, work on cleaning boat, then work, felt tired
Tues: Fingerboard session
Wed: 5K run
Thurs: Work on boat dock, carry blocks up and down hills, mow grass
Fri: Climb at Foster Fall's, rain in am, three routes in pm, 6a and 6b
Sat: 5k run, 23:42, my PR for 5K
Sun: Campus board
Easy climbing week, the Sat. 5K was hard, will not get to climb this week, going to the beach on Fri-Sun

[chris05]

M: rest
T: 4m run, short beastmaker session, theraband & core work
W: rest
T:4m run, pull-ups, press-ups, core & theraband
F: rest
S: 13m offroad hilly run & bouldering at rubicon
S: short bouldering session at stoney (couldn't find toms roof but did find -10!)

Had a great weekend camping (BBQ's & booze), it was good to get on the lime again to remind myself how weak I am and how poor my footwork is! Good to get a decent length run in too.

[Richie Crouch]

Goals for 2010: In Hell, Clyde, Halfway House (Parisellas), NES part 1, Octopussy, Cote du Seshuan (Magic Wood)

Mon: Short indoor session coaching someone on some easier problems/angles, got the fingers awake
Tues: Cave, Dropped pinch before slot on end of In Hell
Weds: Kilnsey, flashed a 7a+! Bolt 2 bolt on Grooved Arete, moves were nice, although I felt beasted from Tuesdays cave session so no redpoint attempts.
Thurs: Reset the crypt bouldering, lots of problem testing, knackered after.
Fri: Short indoor session on above problems, didn't do the 2 reds, punter!
Sat: Rest, watched Champions league final with BBQ and lots of beer
Sun: Indoor session in crypt, dropped last move on both reds, probably stiff for v7/8 but I might just need more rest 

[Mike Tyson]

STG is repeat the things I have done at the Bowderstone - Powerpinch, Picnic Sarcastic etc
LTG is boulder V9/7C, onsight V5/6

Epic fail last week on all fronts.

M- Nothing
T- Nothing
W- 1 hour at the Bowerdstone, far far too hot to try anything
T- Nothing
F- 45 mins at Bowerdstone, still unbearably warm.
S- Nothing, hungover day out with kids.
S- Nothing, slept til 1pm. Booze in the evening.

Have written last week off due to stupid temps, lets pray for it to be cooler this week!

[Barratt]

STG: Be able to climb (and try hardish) in the Lakes in 2 weeks time.
LTG: Consolidate 7a, bag some 7b's

Mon: Nowt
Tues: Nowt
Wed: Climbing, remember that!? Minus 10
Thurs: Rest
Fri: Drink
Sat: Drink & BBQ
Sun: Minus 10 again... shoulder holding up, just.

A light week i know, but shoulder is dictating what is/isn't possible. Hope to steadily raise the game over time. Stoney was a good choice as easy to find probs to work around injury, nice to tick one or two 7a's.

[iain]

STG: State of Play, Total Seizure
MTG: Onsight 7b
LTG: Freaky Ralph, Infinite Gravity

Mon: Repeaters, loads of pull-ups/press-ups
Tues: ARC'ing in stupidly busy wall but good chat
Wed: fingerboard
Thurs: Felt tired and crap, some falling practice and a few routes at wall
Fri: Felt worse, cancel bbq
Sat: Stinkingly hot but felt a bit better, have bbq 
Sun: Stinkingly hotter, random walk round dull house and gardens, car shows 31 degrees , manage to muster evening fingerboard

Feeling crap meant we didn't try going out climbing which was probably a good thing as it would have been too smeggy, no idea when I'm going to be able to get back on State of Play now. North Wales next weekend hopefully.

[Charles]

Short term goal: Onsight 7a > Improve Power Endurance (Process goal = 3 PE Sessions a Week) > Complete Powerband (By June)
Mid term goals: Redpoint F8a > Onsight F7b > Get fit for Mallorca  (All by September)
Long term goals: Onsight F7c > Climb font 8a (All by September 2011)

Monday: Weird session at Matrix. Got stronger as it went on. Still not psyched for bouldering.
Tuesday: Run 5k.
Wednesday: Climbing works. Wanted to experiment with circuits but got embroiled in some bouldering. Did some nice problems on the competition wall.
Thursday: Rest.
Friday: Matrix. Experimented with Power Endurance training on the campus board.
Saturday: Wrote most of an essay and sat around in the sun.
Sunday: Chee Dale. Can't believe I've never been here before. Awesome. Lead 1st pitch of Sirplum - cracking route. Couldn't get on Darl or Countdown which is what I went for so onsighted F6b and F6c on Max Wall. Really pleased to get the F6c.

Quite a good week. I'm so psyched for Mallorca in September it's untrue. Just want to train for routes all the time. I've picked out the two F7b's I'm going to try onsight while I'm there as well - had a look at them last time I was there; steep and thuggy.

Currently failing to do 3 PE sessions a week, but I do have exams and stuff so maybe I should worry about those more.

[roddersm]

STG Goals:

Trad: Pitchfork Wit E1, Birdie, sightseer both E2, Pump up the valium, lighweight lewis denvers both E3, Granny by Gasight E3 5c, Asparagus Tips E4, Stormy Petrol E4 (All Muckross).
Rail Road E1, Marconi E3 5c, Jolly Roger E3, GBH E3 (Fairhead), Other Fish E4 6b (Culdaff, Headpoint, dont ask), Gallows pole E2, Lucy E2, Siren E3 (Burren), Zodiac E2 5c Culdaff
Boulder Chubbs Patterson 7a(+?) Fairhead , Carbide 7a  Left Overs 7a+ Fairhead
sport onsight 7a somewhere. debelof 6c+ and biscott margerine 6b+ and lots of other good routes in the verdon.

LTG's:
Trad:
Start of Something new E4, Profit of Doom E4,Right Wall E5, London Wall E5, Rusty Halo E4, Wall of Fossils E4, Strapodictimy E5, Flesh E5, Operation mindcrime E5, Wall of Pray E5, Gaia E8 (Headpoint - some chance but I'll put it down)
Sport: Redpoint 8a (Raindogs, Statement,Reve de Papillon) Onsight 7b+. Climb lots of hard stuff in Verdon, Ceuse, Siurana.
Boulder: Midnight lightning, spas -tic and boombastic both 7C ish Fairhead. Lots of stuff in Font up to 7b+.
Big Wall: Climb the Nose on El Cap. Astroman.

Mon  Rest
Tue   Rest - Feeling sick.
Wed  Climbing wall session 1.5 hours bouldering. Feel weak.
Thur  Climbing wall session 1.5 hours bouldering. Feel better and just about hold my own against my strong alien rock trained mate whos home over the weekend.
Fri     Running 46 min.
Sat   Muckross Head. Bouldering session. Really hot but managed to do some good problemss between 6a - 6b+\6c as well as a new problem about 6b+/6cish. Way too hot for anything hard so lead a VS. Drink beer and wine and sing songs round the campfire with friends . Good times 
Sun   Went for a wee swim to clear the hangover. Magic. Lead a nice VS. Back off an E3 which I've done before. NNFN . I did the hard climbing but panicked because it was a bit damp and greasy. Bummer.

hmm mixed week. Have been feeling ill due the my wisdom tooth flaring up so taking that into account I'm glad I got anything done this week. Did a couple of nice VS and had a good wee bouldering session but gutted I failed on Elvis which I did last year. Physically I feel pretty good after being a bit run down but haven't got my trad head going yet this year. Enjoying the bouldering too much. Should have maybe have stuck to the easier routes as I wasn't feeling psyched to try anything hardish. Excuses, excuses. Managed not to get totally burnt off by my really strong mate who was home for the weekend which was good though .

[nik at work]

8b, 8B

M, T, W, T - can't really remember, probably nothing
F - epic project bolting session and one go up a 7c.
S - nothing
S - daddy daycare and one redpoint of fridays 7c, fell off after messing up a clip, doh.

I think I may have missed a week somewhere, I'm sure I'll get a reminder. This week was a bit rubbish, but I was expecting that, hey ho. Hot wasn't it?

[JamesD]

Crappppppp week, intended to take a week or so off to let my elbow sort itself out, told myself I was going to do lots of cardio, didn't 

I managed one lot of swimming, and some mucking around in the park at an "adult playground/outdoor gym" campussing up some metal frame thing, and swinging around on this bizarre hanging rotating seesaw thing?!

[Plattsy]

Boulder 7A+

M: Can't remember.
T: Can't remember.
W: Can't remember.
T: Can't remember.
F: Drove to Wales in the evening.
S: Climbed on the Cromlech boulders. About 20 problems. Conditions weren't great. Trashed my tips with repeated failures on Moose's Problem (although looking at some photos perhaps I was too blinkered in my approach) and The Edge Problem. Took photos of friends climbing on Dinas Cromlech. BBQ in the evening.
S: Familiarised myself with the Wavelength boulders. About 10 problems. Conditions were worse today and skin was an issue. Need to go back for so many problems when conditions are better. Wandered round to Dinas Mot for shade and to watch some friends tradding. Pretty beat up by the end of the weekend so much so I can't remember what I did last week. 

[andy popp]

Mon: Crunches/pushups
Tue: out in evening to try project. Unsurprisingly it is far too hot for thin face climbing. Do 7 problems up to V6. Go round to Helsby (first time this year) for easy soloing, 10 routes.
Wed: good repeaters session, increase length of the sets. Crunches/pushups
Thurs: not sure, may have done crunches/pushups
Fri: swim 30x25m, crunches/pushups. BBQ in evening (dominant theme this week it seems).
Sat: sunbathing
Sun: crunches/pushups

Feel like I'm keeping things topped up but I need to get out!! That's going to be next to impossible for next weeks.

[webbo]

Mon.core exs,dead hanging.now using an added 61/2 k on 2 handed stuff.a bit stronger on one handed stuff.out on my bike 2 hours.
Tue. wall going sort of ok.did a couple v6s ok but struggled on the v3s.solved this by making the route setter regrade them.
Wed.nowt
Thu.i was going to climb but ended up looking at houses.
Fri.nowt.
Sat. more looking at houses.core exs.dead hanging same as monday plus 4 repeaters.out on my bike 2hours 15 mins went quite hard.got fried.
Sun. wifes bosses ruby wedding do at malton rugby club.sunday lunch plus free bar.

easy week even managed a couple of alcohol free days.

[chris_j_s]

Weight: 60kg

Aims for 2010: rp 7b+ sport, o/s 6c+ sport, 7A+ boulder.

M: Hmm, can't remember. Which probably means I had a rest day!
T: Bouldering at Craig y Longridge. Repeated last weeks 7A and then worked on linking the neighbouring 6C traverse into it. Am slowly entering the world of endless traversing at CyL!
W: Deadhangs and repeaters.
T: Routes at Gigg South. Warm up on 6b then did a 7a+ (first of the year, YYFY!) second go.
F: Deadhangs and repeaters.
S: First visit to Kilnsey. Onsight a 6c which is a great start then proceed to get lost on one of the worst routes I've ever been on, Another Clip on the Wall (was v busy and all the routes I wanted to get on had ropes in situ ). On the plus side it was a great stamina workout as I spent longer then I ever imagined I could hanging on trying to work out where to go!! The stuff I had in mind looked amazing so I'm totally psyched to go back there.
S: Ugh! 20k walk in the lakes in amazing weather - rather warm for walking up hills though! Did manage not to get sun burned though which is unusual for me!!

Good to get 1st 7a+ of the year done in double quick time. Style was right up my street being very technical on tiny crimps and not very steep. Was also good to mix it up and go to Kilnsey which is entirely not my style, shame it was so super busy but I guess that was only to be expected!!

[andybfreeman]

STG - stay fit and uninjured for Spain, 4 weeks to go try and get enough mileage before then to clear my wobbly lead head.
MTG - just revenge and the coder soak @ ansteys (will be trying CS again this weekend).7B or harder in the forest this winter
LTG - 8a sport, 7C boulder then onwards ever upwards!

M - rest
Tu - mixed session at TCA with emphasis on PE circuits
W - pure PE session. did the red 7b+ circuit for the first timeand got within a move of linking the first half the green 8a+ circuit worth 7c/+ in its own right.
Th - power session on mark's board. mixed bag, strong(ish) on big locks on monos but felt weak not being able to crank a single one armer!
F - gym, cardio and synergistic chest and shoulder exercises + some core and some assisted 1 armers on the machine
S - no one to climb with and had to pay catch up at work so limited to short session at TCA. did the 40 orange problems in 20 mins as a mixed warm up /  PE workout then onto the new black hard problems
Su - more time in the office then another shortish session at TCA focussing on recruitment on harder problems. managed 5/6 of the new black circuit

Weight averaging low 67s last week but 66.6this morning. this now feels sustainable with scope for the occasional gastronomic blowout!

[Nibile]

mon - usual left hand session, poor, as shown in the vid. greasy greasy holds and maybe a bit tired. 2x8 sets deadhang and lockoff; then onearmers on jug, 4x4 sets (last set did 6). aid when needed.
tue - circuits. flashed a 32 moves 7b/+; then two tried on a 7c+, good vibes but fell due to slippery foothold, second go was very good though, i was going to make it.
wed - WEIGHTS!!!
thu - rest.
fri - weights
sat - top roping on slabby nightmares, onsighted 6c (mindblowing).
sun - top roping on overhanging nightmares (chipped sandstone), 2x7a+, 1x7c+, 2x7a, all with falls.

comments: looking back it's been a good week. i felt weak on the tests, but the circuits were fine. then, the weights: seems that unlike previous years, this time i kept my overall power during the winter, so i'm starting from where i stopped past september. am doing bench press, military press, triceps with cables, bicep hammer curls, one arm lat machine, pulley machine. 6-7 moves for 4 sets each. abs, stretch.
looks promising, although my elbow was sore yesterday night. starving for bouldering on rock.

[nai]

stg - RnR
mtg - E4, 7b, train over summer
ltg - 7Cs next winter

M - very tired after return from Font
T - still tired but spend 30 minutes soloing at Burbage North, about 400ft climbing. Fun.
W - does mowing the lawn count?
T - wandered along Stanage in the afternoon soloing stuff I'd not done before, managed 26 routes up to VS and probably as many back-downs.  Met up with a mate in the evening for a few roped routes.  Highly enjoyable day.
F - tired again
SS - family/nowt

Good day Thursday, back to leading from where I left off last September, felt pretty comfortable straight away so keen to get on something harder next time.  On the downside I've had a problem with my sinuses so have been feeling breathless, sluggish and not sleeping well for a month, just started antibiotics for that so will hopefully have some umph back soon and I can face my 'maker again.

[Three Nine]

STG Boy George, Avenged
MTG onsight 7cs and redpoint 8as in Europe
LTG Tuppence 2011

M rest
T 2 hours 30 deg, did project
W 1.5 hours 30 deg, unstructured
T 2.5 hours on 45, didnt feel too bad but unstructured
F start to develop virus, drive to sheff
S feel ill, struggle up some 7as at the cheedale cornice, fail to do a 7b
S as sat but do a 7b

bit preoccupied with work and shizz atm. up north this week, hope to go bloddering tmo

[Stubbs]

M: Some press ups
T: Ditto
W: Ditto
T: Beastmaker and Weights
F: Nowt
S: Nowt (wedding)
S: Granite bouldering: Mabley Green boulder in 30+ degree heat. Steep prow problem is excellent.

Back on some proper training this week hopefully!

[petejh]

Goal - VIII, 8a, 8A, E8, in 2010.
At - IX, 7a+, 7B, E3/4.
Goal for May - Foulish Ghoulish (pen trwyn), Plaqued by Fools (pt), Foil/Stroll On/Quasar (pass).

m. tradding at Gogarth.
t. nowt
w. nowt
t. nowt
f. Sent my new route in the quarries, so psyched for such a good line, one of the best at it's grade in N.Wales. Birdsong 7a+ 42m.
s. TR on Foulish.. but opened up finger after a very few tries on the crux.
s. nowt.

Having to wait for skin to heal up is stopping me getting on the limestone, tradding's all good though.

[Falling Down]

STG’s – Get proper body fit for Surfing trip to Sumatra in May (TICKED)
MTG’s – Redpoint 7c (Sturgeon/Lightweight/Body Machine) & Onsight E5 (Right Wall/Positron/White Wall)
VLTG’s – Redpoint 8b, Boulder 8a.

M – Surf 2 x 2 - 2.5 hour sessions
T – Surf 3 x 2 - 2.5 hour sessions
W – Surf 3 x 2 - 2.5 hour sessions
T – Surf 3 x 2 - 2.5 hour sessions
F - Surf 1 x 2 hour session
S - 25 hours travelling back from Indo
S - 45 minute run in the evening.

Great trip to Indo. Surfed 8 days out of 12 due to an ear infection keeping me out of the water for four. All the training in advance paid off as I spend lots more time in the water than on the last boat trip.

This weeks goals: Recover from jetlag. Go climbing to assess current ability. 2 x run and 2 x overall PE session.

[Davo]

Monday: Campused for the first time in a while. Basic laddering plus some working towards repeating my previous bests.

Tuesday: rested

Wednesday: Kilnsey, managed to snatch defeat from the jaws of victory. Fell off from the belay of Grooved Arete too pumped to pull rope out to clip with. Fairly frustrating day.

Thursday: Fingerboarded and 1 arm work on bar.

Friday: Rested

Saturday: Kilnsey, drove over psyched to crush but instead I got crushed by the temps. Didn't stop John who made it look like VS and then did sub-culture as well!

Sunday: Hacked off with the humidity so headed to Gordale and tried Supercool. So long and very technical. Not my bag but a great route and am keen to have another play at some stage.

[shark]

Fell off from the belay of Grooved Arete too pumped to pull rope out to clip with. Fairly frustrating day.

Just 'fairly' ?

[Doylo]

I can see how that happened davo, even though your on a jug the feet are a bit slippy! Next time buddy......

[Andy F]

Goal - as ever...

Mon - Fingerboard 30 mins or so.
Tues - Rest
Wed - Kilnsey after work. Warmed up on GA. Had 3 progressively better goes, ending up falling on the move after the jug. Progress. How Davo failed to get it I'll never know 
Thurs - Rest
Fri - Beer
Sat - Family
Sun - Goredale. Found the shadiest and windiest crag in the UK, which was nice. Went on Supercool which was super. And cool. Moves are all ok but there's a few to remember.

Next couple of weeks will be light as I'm expecting the new arrival anytime.

[Monolith]

Done no physical exercise in this week phase. Have been awake for most of it but finally had my work pinned up and marked. Going for 8 mile run in morning and recommencing proper action now all is nearly done save for one last exam. End of boring report sorry.