There seem to be a number of different ways to train power endurance: 1) Interval TrainingCircuits at 80% intensity (i.e. 2 grades below max onsight) with x mins rest in between. Repeat to fail.
3)Foot on Campus Board TrainingWith feet on, 20 - 30 hand movements (e.g. both rung 1, RH rung 3, LH rung 3, RH rung 2, LH rung 1, RH rung 1 etc.) Rest 15 mins. Repeat 3 or 4 times.
That doesn't look like it'll train anything. 15 minutes rest between 30 moves?!
So if you were training for one of the routes on the catwalk at Malham you'd go higher intensity - less moves, longer rest. But training for routes that were hard sequences seperated by good rests you might use the longer circuits with shorter rest?
Final thought: The thing I worry about with some circuits is that going up definitely uses some muscles that going sideways ignores a bit. If you do up-down-ups on problems or 4x4s then your biceps and shoulders get boxed, whereas if you go sideways they generally don't... I figure more vertical movement = good, so set circuits that climb up and down lots.
Quote from: Charles on May 20, 2010, 12:32:35 pm4) 4x4s and 6x8s4 problems done back to back, rest for as long as it took to climb them, and repeat 4 times. (Quote from Serpico as I've never done them.) FWIW from the punter end of the spectrum, I trained exclusively doing 4x4s as you describe for about a month (about 3-4 times per week) before going to Turkey - essentially as I don't have a lead indoor wall nearby and wasn't allowed out to climb on the crags either - and was really pleased with the results: my best ever flash of a sport route. For several months prior to that I done very little except bouldering.
4) 4x4s and 6x8s4 problems done back to back, rest for as long as it took to climb them, and repeat 4 times. (Quote from Serpico as I've never done them.)
Final, final thought: Apparently Simpson used to be sceptical about 4x4s etc because of the small rest time built in dropping off and moving between problems. I guess it depends on what you're training for, but with this in mind I have a vague idea that maybe things where you don't step off (circuits or up-down-ups) are best for intense, hard move, longer rest style work, and the 4x4/6x8 style is more useful in the 6x8 format or similar where it's a less intense, more stamina-like pump you're aiming for.
When doing 4x4's, how many sets of the 4x4 do other people do? Last night I did 4 repeats e.g. 4 sets of 4x4's with 10 mins rest between each set of 16 problems. e.g. 74 problems in total. It felt like I'd been for run, but on my arms.... great workout.Just curious to see what other folk do?
Does that make sense?