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Progression - through the grades! (Read 1899 times)

Robsons

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Progression - through the grades!
June 10, 2010, 12:01:54 pm
If this has been done to death, or is a repeat, feel free to delete -  Lords of the threads!
I've done a search, but it didn't come up with much... :-\

So, as I mentioned, I'm getting more and more into trad and bouldering, having had a clear three years dedicated to sports climbing.
Having now come up with a training program that works for me, progression is clear.
My question is;
Given that "the climber" is training and getting onto rock at least twice a week, which aspect in your opinions' is the easiest to progress in?
Specifically talking about the 7s for French and Bouldering, and I guess going through the harder E grades for trad - perhaps E3 upwards and technical grades from 6a and rising.

As many of you are crushers in the bouldering scene (probably the sports scene/trad too), I'm guessing a lot of wise words and experience can be shared...

So, in your opinion, which form of climbing (if any) is the easiest to progress through???

Fultonius

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#1 Re: Progression - through the grades!
June 10, 2010, 01:10:56 pm
It's complicated.  :P

Nah, really, I think it is!

If you've got a good head and are good at reading routes then getting up to the high E-numbers has got to be the easiest.

As for bouldering/sport climbing. Most of the people I know who climb in the 7s (and some in the low 8s) in both bouldering and sport climbing climb at a higher grade on routes. In fact, quite a few folk I climb with mainly boulder, but can still climb at a similar sport grade.

I'd say moving through the 7s is easier on routes than boulders, but in the end of the day, improvement in sport requires improvement in bouldering.

remus

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#2 Re: Progression - through the grades!
June 10, 2010, 01:41:30 pm
Id say trad probably has the fastest initial progression, as once youve learnt the basic skills (placing gear, reading routes etc.) you'll be able to up your grade pretty quickly, especially with your sport climbing background. After that initial period you'll probably slow down to bouldering/sport levels of progression though, as you need to be strong in a sport/bouldering sense to consistently climb hard trad.

 

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