[tomtom]

A better week this week! My consumption is going...
STG 7B+

M: Nothing, blew my nose loads...
T: Nothing, Coughed lots
W: Hacked up green stuff..
T: Some progress - stroked the beastmaker in the evening (tenderly..)
F: Rest after Thursdays exertions
S: AT LAST.. climbing - first time in 2 1/2 weeks... nice session up at Wimberry.. hands soft, stamina bad, but felt light. Managed Fish Arete which I was quite pleased with (especially the top out!)
Su: Manchester 10k. OK, I watched Mrs TT go around it rather than ran it myself... 

[Nibile]

M - usual one arm training. dead hangs, lock offs 2x8 sets, felt improvements. then one armers on slopey hold, 2x3 sets. then one armers on jug, 4x3 sets with some aid.
T - rest
W - weak weak session. 21° and 91% humidity in the gym. horrible. did some circuits on vertical wall, then some easy bouldering, no crimping no locking off. then one armers on jug, 4 then 5. quite depressed.
T - rest and session at the ostheopath.
F - party in siena, drunk alot and played it cool with the girls.
S - rest.
S - rest.
almost everyday wrist curls and stretching for lower back, arms and hamstrings.

comments: mah... i've said it in the blog. i am sad not to be able to climb, and sometimes i feel my goal of malc's one armer impossible to reach. i'd love to just check that hold, but right now i can't. all i can do is to keep training and praying my elbow to recover.
it's very very hard to stay motivated.

[tommytwotone]

LTG - Font 7b, Great North Run sub 2-hour time

Been a much better week, lots more actual climbing (as opposed to the lunchtimes in the gym at work).

M - Nowt, busy day then pub quiz after work
T - Great session in mate's new cellar board, felt destroyed afterwards
W - Too sore to move after Tues night, let alone exercise!
T - Bolt clipping at Harrogate wall - really enjoyed it, think shocking the system helped my psyche
F - Nowt, got my Xbox so spend hours playing GTA IV
S - Caley session, great time inc. 7a
S - Went to Sheff, bought Beastmaker, soloed 30-someodd routes at Burbage. Came home and watched T20 World Cup Final.

 

[andy popp]

Mon: wake up battered, bruised, hungover and deaf from Dinosaur Jr gig. Nothing
Tues: fingerboard, crunches, pushups
Wed: crunches, pushups
Thurs: rest with plan to climb Fri
Fri: its raining. Arse. Swim 30x25m, sauna, crunches, pushups
Sat: crunches, pushups.
Sun: nothing, cook Sunday dinner.

V so-so week. Injured shoulder playing up. Hope to try fantastic project on Tues this week.

On the plus side, weighed myself for the first time in many, many years - 65.8K (10st 5) - not at all bad, certainly better than I was expecting.

[grimer]

did you get my pm andy?

[petejh]

Goal - VIII, 8a, 8A, E8 in 2010.
At - IX, 7a+, 7B, E3.
Goal for May - Foulish Ghoulish (pen trywyn), Plaqued by Fools (pt), Foil/Stroll On/Quasar (pass).

m. nowt
t. Gogarth. Couple of nice routes on main cliff.
w. nowt
t. Gogarth. two routes Easter Island area/Wen Zawn.
f. nowt
s. cleaning and bolting new project.
s. cleaning and bolting new project. What a fucking route, just brilliant!!!

Not much effort spent climbing due to cut-up finger. Lots of effort spent cleaning and bolting what could end up being amongst one of the best routes in the quarries.
Elbow hurting for last 3 weeks now.

[Three Nine]

STG Boy George, Avenged, Beginner's Wall
MTG onsight 7cs in Europe, redpoint 8a in all different styles
LTG Tuppence Spring 2011

M rest
T power on 30 trying project, no closer than last week, 2 hours
W cardio 45 min run
T power on 45 trying to be open handed
F cardio 30 min run
S Anstey's, Daves new 7c link up and Empire Direct, tried boy George, amazing.
S Anstey's minging weather, put draws in CS for a mate, felt piss and thought i was awesome. then tried tuppence and realized i was actually shit. just another level for me. sketched up a 7b slab.

Hope to step up strength training this week by introducing some beastmaker drag/sloper work. Dead keen to do boy george.

[cmerch]

Same old goals: 8a and V8
Mon: 5 mile run and fingerboard workout
Tues: campus board and pull-ups
Wed: 2 mile run, 1 mile down, 1 mile up
Thurs: Climb at Foster Falls, a couple of easy 5's, then two 6c+'s, then a 7b+
Fri: 3 mile hilly run, then back to Fosters, 3 routes, 5-6's, felt a little knackered
Sat: nothing, work
Sun: Fingerboard workout
OK week, felt good about the 7b+, let one of my mates try it (25 year old) he failed , HA, HA, HA!!
Old guys can still crank!

[Plattsy]

Boulder 7A+

M: Works.
T: Burbage - 2nd Long Tall Sally and fail on the easy problems at remergence
W: Nowt.
T: Foundry.
F: Burbage south bouldering.
S: Nowt.
S: Rubicon then routes at Stanage.

[Richie Crouch]

Goals for 2010: In Hell, Clyde, Halfway House (Parisellas), NES part 1, Octopussy, Cote du Seshuan (Magic Wood)

Mon: Rest
Tues: Cave, puntered up near end of Broken Heart, I basically have no endurance/strength. Fell off a couple moves from end of In Hell twice then sacked it off for the day.
Weds: Circuits on 45 board, some corework and pressups
Thurs: Rest
Fri: Rest
Sat: Clogwyn Y Tarw and J's Roof, generally got shut down and felt tired all day.
Sun: nada

Verdict: Poor. 

[Duncan Disorderly]

After a 6 week or so Power Club Lay-Off I've decided I need to pull the finger out and get back on the horse.... So to speak.

Last 6 weeks: Popped a finger tendon in font... Utterly pissed off! Taping up has enabled me to still climb on grit but still can't crimp even slightly.. Started daily yoga and been working core. Climbed a few 7a's over the past 3 weeks.

Goals: Font 7b again (not done one this season).. F7c when finger's better, F8a before 01.01.2014

M: Early morning yoga.
T: Early morning yoga. Bouldering @ Burbage, got rained off. Went to works to see how the finger coped indoors. Pulled on the skips, sliced a massive flapper in another finger, went to the pub dejected.. This is taking the piss!
W: Early morning yoga.
T: Early morning yoga. Bouldering @ Baslow - realised how shit my stamina is by failing to do the walnut 6c. Made progres on the 7b round the back though.
F: Yoga.
S: Swimming wit boy.. Did yoga in Sauna (got some funny looks).
S: Bouldering @ Burbage - Windy and glassy. Failed to do 7 ball (snatched defeat from the jaws of victory), did the hard bit on rascal groove, got too scared on green scrittle to do any more. Did what a way to spend Easter again.

Finger's on the mend, looking like I'm gonna have to pop me 2010 limestone cherry soon. Still enjoying the grit though and just happy to be climbing really as thought I'd be out for months when the finger went POP 

:D 

[chris05]

M: 5 mile run & 20mins core
T: 4 mile run, theraband, pullups press-ups & 20 mins core
W: nothing
T: nothing
F: nothing
S: good session at churnet
S: short session at chasecliffe & 8 mile hilly offroad run.

Three days of doing little exercise were caused by a deadline at work and subsequent celebrations. Both middle finger A2's are still playing up. Elbow was great on Sat but bad on Sun so must avoid climbing 2 days in a row at the moment.

[Mike Tyson]

First post here, hopefully going to keep it going.

STG is repeat the things I have done at the Bowderstone - Powerpinch, Picnic Sarcastic etc
LTG is boulder V9/7C, onsight V5/6

I have decided on my regime to go:
M- Climb
T- Train i.e. Pull up bar and/or beastmaker, sit ups, press ups, some weights
W- Climb
T- Train
F- Day off
S- Climb
S- Possibly day off, climb or train depending on how I feel.

Every other monday will be spent out on my bike, probably at Whinlatter. I will also look at doing some biking on Fridays.

Last week was ok-ish.

M- Bowderstone. Got to the same point on Lateral Gruntings as I used to about 3 years ago! Surprised with that.
T- Nothing
W- Nothing
T- Bowderstone.
F- Nothing
S- Nothing
S- St Bees. Made ok progress on Headbanger and generally did the classics.

All in all not to bad, tired and achey today though 

[nai]

stg - couple of weeks RnR/low volume
mtg - trad/sport/train over summer
ltg - 7Cs next winter

Su - Sabot, didn't climb well but worked out Angle Jean Luc at last, sore tips by the end.  Amusing incident being "coached" up problems using the correct sequences by a local who's wife had taken a fancy to my daughter.
M - Cance Aux Merciers, most of the blue circuit and La Nez (how this is considered one of the forest's best problems is beyond me) before rain stopped play
T - rain stopped play
W - some great highballs and reds at 91.1 in the morning.  Sabot later (for the girls). Managed an hour, pleased to do Bazooka Jo easily, retro flashed Graviton and was getting Achilles Talon when time was called.
T - Sabot again (for the Mrs again).  I had a short session just trying  Achilles Talon, closer but the crimpy pinch would have punctured my tips so had to walk away.
F - Rocher Guichot first thing so Mrs could do yellows but turns out they've been redrawn as orange.  She tried a few without much success but said it didn't matter because she'd enjoyed pulling hard - good girl.  I did half a dozen nice reds before we headed into town for kiddy entertainment.  Had an hour at Cuvier in the evening, tried some stuff I thought I'd now have a good shot at (Charcuterie, Carnage, Corto Maltese) but did only slightly better then the last 15 years.  Disappointing.
S&S - came home, knackered and developing sniffles/congestion

SoSo trip, didn't expect to be siegeing stuff on a family trip but thought I might get one or two 7s quite quickly.  Wasn't climbing well all week though, enjoyed doing lots of easy stuff but being shutdown by 6a/b problems was a bit frustrating.  But, I went to three new areas and did maybe 100 problems I've not previously so  .  Roll on the October trip...

[JamesD]

*Revised General goals* before the end of the summer

20 pull-ups with horizontal leg raise hold pronated/supinated

6c out on real rock

Lose weight/improve general stamina

Sub-standard performance this week, girlfriend has exam period on for this semester and I have to drive her around at the moment until she gets more mobile on her ankle, this combined with a really busy week at work (a few major projects coming up), screwed up most of my training plans this week.

Monday - Zero

Tuesday - Swim, Sauna, Steam room

Wednesday -

Lunch time: full rotator cuff workout, plyometric bicep work, a few tricep kick backs with resistance bands, and some scapula push-ups, followed by....decent amount of swimming, sauna and steam room time again. Then I went off for some work meetings in the afternoon, after work I went to the wall.
Evening:
Full circuit on V0 Traverse
3/4 circuit on V1 traverse followed immediately by 6-8 pull-ups pronated then 6-8 pullups supinated
Half a circuit on a V2 traverse, followed by hanging leg raises, did 5 touching my feet to the bar, then held horizontally static for 20 seconds or so
Rest, then horizontal leg raise hold, for 5 pull ups pronated, then rest, and same again supinated.
Quarter circuit on a V4 Traverse, then got comically spat off onto the mat.
Went off to try some problems, my forearms were pumped to fuck so I wasn't expecting much, managed a load of V1 stuff, and my crimping strength as gone up a lot, which was a nice surprise! I was moving up some really crimpy stuff quite easily (which is a real first for me), had a crack on some V2 stuff but my forearms were so dead I couldn't even manage to pull on to the sit-starts 
However I managed the first 3 moves on a crimpy V4 which I was really pleased with, after this I realised my forearms were totally fried and it was time to call it a night....all in all, a productive evening, my power endurance has gone up significantly, and finger strength is progressing along nicely.

Thursday: zero

Friday: zero

Saturday: Went to play on the Granite boulder in Mabley Green Park with a mate, after traversing across the big flake a few times to warm up, we got to work on the V2/V3 problems, managed to get 1-2 moves away from the top each time, then bottled it at the top, don't ask me why, but my confidence just seemed to wash away on the 3-4 occasions I came close to topping out, was so annoyed at myself, granite just feels sketchy as hell compared to grit though!
I slipped off quite badly a couple of times working the problems, and I think that threw any confidence I had in my feet at this point, god knows why, but even after I worked out the problems it seemed to stop me from finishing them, I think it may have been a combination of this and my tips getting redder and more irritated by the minute from slipping off a few times, no doubt the bruised knee didn't help either.... apart from my complete lack of any ability to finish the problems I had a good time though, but I get so frustrated with days like this 

Sunday: Zero

Overall, a productive week in parts, but with some majors ups, and subsequently some major downs, I also irritated my right elbow on Saturday which I injured ages ago, it feels fine today, but I am taking 2 weeks off now because I want to get it healed properly, it's getting annoying now.

[chris_j_s]

Weight: 61kg

Aims for 2010: rp 7b+ sport, o/s 6c+ sport, 7A+ boulder.

M: Bouldering at Ingleton. Indoor bouldering for the first time in ages. They were part way through a reset and I managed to do all the new problems then do some circuits for a bit to destroy myself. Made a conscious effort to focus on technique rather than just pulling hard as I think this will be key to me progressing this year.
T: Big session on Rock Rings with some monster Repeater sets. Good session.
W: Routes at Castleberg. Repeated some stuff I've done before and spent some time working on one of the harder routes up there.
T: Craig y Longridge. Do my second 7A of the year, YYFY!!
F: Rest Day. Brother arrived to stay for weekend looking like shit and showing all the symptoms of having mumps. He claims to have been to the doctors nearly two weeks ago but while they were a little suspicious they still sent sent him away  . I thought it was a notifyable disease but hey-ho! Kept a massive distance and spent the rest of the weekend cacking myself because I haven't been vaccinated.
S: Deadhangs and one arm work on rock rings in the morning. Rest of the day was at a family get together (brother didn't go, stayed in bed) where there was far too much food, but luckily I was driving so didn't completely balls up my calorie intake with booze as well!
S: Managed a circuits session at Castleberg in the evening. Pretty good actually - managed to do a 20 move circuit (about font 6B/6B+) 7 times with a minutes rest between each go. Then spent a while working on a harder traverse/problem which I eventually did at possibly hard 6C+?. Felt quite boxed for the rest of the evening.


After packing my brother off home (still not right but looking massively better on Sunday) and doing a bit of research it seems that mumps is generally only contagious from 5 days before symptoms show to about 5 days after they start to show. Being as he saw the doctor almost two weeks ago I felt a little less worried...

[Charles]

Short term goal: Onsight 7a > Improve Power Endurance (Process goal = 3 PE Sessions a Week) > Complete Powerband (By June)
Mid term goals: Redpoint F8a > Onsight F7b > Get fit for Mallorca  (All by September)
Long term goals: Onsight F7c > Climb font 8a (All by September 2011)

Monday: Rested
Tuesday: Power endurance at the works.
Wednesday: Rubicon. Nice change of venue. Bouldered Kudos in a few goes. Played on The Sissy. Now I know what F8a feels like. Could definitely climb it by September.
Thursday: Rested
Friday: Lost my friday night to drink.
Saturday: Lost to work and hangover.
Sunday: Power endurance at the Depot.

A good week at last! Nice to tick a new problem and to tickle the holds on an 8a.

The power endurance sessions have been good, but I'm doing better on them than my first sessions last summer which leads me to believe that my ability to get rather pumped on easy climbs is due to stamina issues rather than power endurance.

The new circuit board at the Depot is bangin'. Was doing my circuits on the 6c but did the 7a+ second go which was quite nice.

[iain]

STG: State of Play, Total Seizure
MTG: Onsight 7b regularly
LTG: Freaky Ralph, Infinite Gravity

Mon: rest
Tues: Portland, more of a social day but still got a solid 7a+ onsight at the end. Biggest success though was not braining my belayer with the hold I pulled off on a warm-up.
Wed: nothing
Thurs: more nothing, low psyche
Fri: Fingerboard
Sat: Pointless day at Wintours Leap, we shouldn't have bothered.
Sun: fingerboard, book Gite for October font trip YYFY

Time to start some more structured training again. I have a project to go back and tick.

[Stubbs]

This week: some pressups, that is all.

[Davo]

Monday: Restd

Tuesday: Cave, did Beaver Cleaver for first time (felt hard). Worked on arch section of Pilgrim and got this section sorted. Next time will try starting to put some links together. Tried sam's Finish low start but was too tired. repeted rockatrocity. Did left wall low 3 times to finish and work endurance.

Wednseday: Wrecked, wanted to fingerboard but was too tired.

Thursday: Circuits at wall. Extended circuit and made it harder.

Friday: Rested

Saturday: Kilnsey, inadequate warm up on worst 6c in the world. Then a "warm up" burn on Grooved Arete. But got summit fever and carried onto the jug. Arms felt okay but fingers were frozen with no blood. So promptly fell off after that. This destroyed me for the rest of the day. Then proceeded to split my tip working one of the sections! Doh!

Sunday: Despite the split headed back to Kilnsey. Got to the jug again on GA but was knackered. Re-worked a sequence and think I have a more efficient method. So hopefully next session my siege should come to an end.

Cheers Dave

[andybfreeman]

STG - get fit for Spain now just 4 weeks away. get route confidence and stay uninjured
MTG - crush in Spain. try and on sight bistec du biceps. RP 7c/8a. Boulder 7C in albaracin (this may be ambitious!)
LTG - climb more routes in the UK including Just revenge and Cider Soak at ansteys

M=rest
Tu= long session at TCA. 2 hours problems + 2 hours circuits. go close to 1st half of green 8a+ish circuit
W=short circuits only session at TCA.
Th=power session on mark's board, good fun pulling on small pockets
F=rest
Sa= ansteys. couldn't start the warm up 6c but then got on empire and it felt easy on dog. then proceeded to fuck up 5 or 6 redpoints before finally crushing. first 7b so not bad
Su = ansteys in shot weather. felt strong on warm up so decided to try CS. fist go felt nails and only made it half way. 2nd go much better felt solid through 12st half and then lined to final bolt. then failed to stick final sequence of moves, thought i was too tired but with hindsight definitely a mental issue, i really struggled to relax when sat on the bolt so struggle to commit to the moves. frankly this is why I'm trying to get mileage before Spain so that i can hopefully eradicate some of these mental deficiencies!

Back to Ansteys for bank hol weekend so will try CS again then. Also keen to get on boy george with mark just because it's such an amazing looking line

weight average mid 67s last week. up on best but back in line with my original pre-spain weight loss plan

[Doylo]

 Then a "warm up" burn on Grooved Arete. But got summit fever and carried onto the jug. Arms felt okay but fingers were frozen with no blood. So promptly fell off after that. This destroyed me for the rest of the day. Then proceeded to split my tip working one of the sections! Doh!

Tut tut. eyes bigger than your belly dave, very unprofessional!

[Barratt]

A little late to the powerparty following copious amounts of injury.

STG: Be able to climb (and try hardish) in the Lakes in 3 weeks time.
LTG: Consolidate 7a, bag some 7b's

Mon: Very light beastmaker session, testing the shoulder for first time.
Tues: Sore shoulder but not too bad. Rest.
Wed: Physiotherapy session - sadistic but starting to see results.
Thurs: Rest
Fri: Drink
Sat: First climbing session for a few weeks. Stoney.
Sun: Hung over but shoulder ok

A light week i know, but shoulder is dictating what is/isn't possible. Hope to steadily raise the game over time. Stoney was a good choice as easy to find probs to work around injury, nice to tick one or two 7a's.

[Fiend]

Goals:
Tick Scotland.

This week:
Mon - n/a
Tue - n/a
Wed - n/a
Thu - n/a / gentle weights
Fri - 2 hours steady bouldering @ Portlethen, went okay, got into the vibe more /  2 hours misc sport climbing @ Balshammer, rubbish conditions, did little.
Sat - 5 decent trad leads @ Clashrodney & Findon Ness
Sun - 2 good trad leads @ Longhaven, very good, imposing challenges and did the hardest on-lead crack climbing I've done / 1 1/2 hour stroll inc steady uphill.

All week - shoulder and neck stiff mostly due to sleeping funny.

Comments:
No training this week. Climbing at weekend was good. Bit weak on sport and bouldering but trad head pretty good - finally getting to grips with Aberdeen sea-cliffs. Bit of stomping around too which all adds up. Upper back still twingy and achey and still need to look after it more.

[shark]

Thanks for starting thread tomtom

Goal: Oak. 10,000 8a nu points
Weight: 11.4-5

M.
T. Early AM Yoga (3 mins of Omming FFS)Lunch  Fingery board endurance session.
W. Eve Travel to Spain.
T. Climbing at Tres Ponts
F. Climbing at Tres Ponts
S. Looking at Oliana 
S. Climbing at Tres Ponts 

Good trip to Spain although return delayed and ended up flying back to a diffrerent airport last. Bit of rain and some seepage on first days but otherwise ace conditions. Got two ace long routes on day1 7a+ and 7b+ o/s and a really tough 7b on day 2. Had a rest day and had an ambitious go at trying to onsight a 7b+ and 7c on day 3 but got so boxed I didnt redpoint either though got to pulling over the top bulge onto a slab on the 7c before peeling off. On the volcanic bonus day4 yesterday failled to onsight another 7b/+ but got the redpint of the previous days' 7b+.

So with an extra 192 dirty 8aspew points that puts me ahead of Three-Nine again  .       

Tipped off about Tres Ponts by Neil Mawson and really recommend it. Only 2 hours from Barcelona and is particularly good for the 7b+ to 7c+ range and some good looking 8's. Less prone to seepage than Bruixes and cooler temperature than Siurana/Margalef. Topo here:  http://www.chadurif.fr/topo/tres_ponts/TresPonts.pdf