[Three Nine]

apologies if this is a well-trodded topic, but search didn't turn anything up:

My mate was banging on about caffine being used by cyclists to aid recovery because of its dilation of blood vessels. Anyone know anything about this and its potential application to rock climbing for recovery or endurance? Would be good if it were helpful as caffeine is fricking awesome.

[tobym]

I haven't researched it, but vaguely remember reading Mark Twight discussing the vasoconstricting effects of caffeine in Extreme Alpinism.

[gremlin]

as an ex amateur road racer, I got good results using caffeine before training and racing and after wards for recovery. In conjunction with compression tights (also for recovery) I could manage 400 miles per week of intensive training.

[chriss]

I have also read that a dose of caffeine, the equivalent of 3 cups of coffee is good for recovery. This was in a running article thou.

Personally I rate caffeine, but  as always too much of anything cant be good for you. Give it a whirl and see what works for you.

[JamesPullan]

The thing to consider with caffeine is "do I really need it?"

The EU health people have it classified as a "harmful" psychoactive drug. The list of side effects is long and can be alarming, not to mention it's addictive.

Exercising without the stimulating properties of caffeine is much better for you too, your body will burn body fat more readily, resulting in fitter and lighter boulderers...

[Fultonius]

If you listen to everything those over-reactive Euro health sceptics say, you'd live off lettuce leaves and distilled water!

Are you telling me you don't drink either? Because that's waaaay worse for your health than the odd espresso!!!

[JamesPullan]

What's wrong with lettuce and water??

I suppose what I was saying is is it worth loading up on 2,3,400mg of caffeine everytime you exercise and then feeling shit the day after because you had 36 minutes sleep all night??

Also, caffeine, as a diuretic, would exacerbate the dehydrating affects of exercise, causing you to drink more fluids, which will make you piss like a horse.

Good cardiovascular fitness will provide optimal vasodilaton for keeps, and promotes all round good health. 

[Fultonius]

Aye, fair enough. I doubt it's worth loading up on caffeine pills but nowt wrong with coffee!

I can't drink coffee after about 7 without staying awake.

[Omar15]

Right, don't laugh at this. But I've found that having a nap with a coat on after climbing makes my arms and fingers flush with blood. I think this is because the body is trying to lose heat through vasodilation - im not sure if that increases blood flow to the parts of your hands and fingers that need it, or just your skin surface. I found it helps anyway!

And nappings bloody marvellous on its own.

[Paul B]

I suppose what I was saying is is it worth loading up on 2,3,400mg of caffeine everytime you exercise and then feeling shit the day after because you had 36 minutes sleep all night??

I (unfortunately) drink a butt load of coke each day and have no problem sleeping 10,12 even 14 hours. I did take a 6month break from drinking coke and I was considerably leaner.

[cofe]

and I was considerably leaner.

did people have to stop calling you 'fat paul' for a bit?

[Paul B]

In contrast I'm now binging on carbs at 1.22am.

[dm]

Some SCIENCE:

This is the abstract from "International society of sports nutrition position stand: caffeine and performance", JOURNAL OF THE INTERNATIONAL SOCIETY OF SPORTS NUTRITION    Volume: 7  Article Number: 5    Published: JAN 27 2010:

Abstract: Position Statement: The position of The Society regarding caffeine supplementation and sport performance is summarized by the following seven points: 1.) Caffeine is effective for enhancing sport performance in trained athletes when consumed in low-to-moderate dosages (similar to 3-6 mg/kg) and overall does not result in further enhancement in performance when consumed in higher dosages (>= 9 mg/kg). 2.) Caffeine exerts a greater ergogenic effect when consumed in an anhydrous state as compared to coffee. 3.) It has been shown that caffeine can enhance vigilance during bouts of extended exhaustive exercise, as well as periods of sustained sleep deprivation. 4.) Caffeine is ergogenic for sustained maximal endurance exercise, and has been shown to be highly effective for time-trial performance. 5.) Caffeine supplementation is beneficial for high-intensity exercise, including team sports such as soccer and rugby, both of which are categorized by intermittent activity within a period of prolonged duration. 6.) The literature is equivocal when considering the effects of caffeine supplementation on strength-power performance, and additional research in this area is warranted. 7.) The scientific literature does not support caffeine-induced diuresis during exercise, or any harmful change in fluid balance that would negatively affect performance.

So there you go.  It may or may not be useful when bouldering, but is certainly going to be helpful when chuffing.

[chriss]

Some SCIENCE:

This is the abstract from "International society of sports nutrition position stand: caffeine and performance", JOURNAL OF THE INTERNATIONAL SOCIETY OF SPORTS NUTRITION    Volume: 7  Article Number: 5    Published: JAN 27 2010:

Abstract: Position Statement: The position of The Society regarding caffeine supplementation and sport performance is summarized by the following seven points: 1.) Caffeine is effective for enhancing sport performance in trained athletes when consumed in low-to-moderate dosages (similar to 3-6 mg/kg) and overall does not result in further enhancement in performance when consumed in higher dosages (>= 9 mg/kg). 2.) Caffeine exerts a greater ergogenic effect when consumed in an anhydrous state as compared to coffee. 3.) It has been shown that caffeine can enhance vigilance during bouts of extended exhaustive exercise, as well as periods of sustained sleep deprivation. 4.) Caffeine is ergogenic for sustained maximal endurance exercise, and has been shown to be highly effective for time-trial performance. 5.) Caffeine supplementation is beneficial for high-intensity exercise, including team sports such as soccer and rugby, both of which are categorized by intermittent activity within a period of prolonged duration. 6.) The literature is equivocal when considering the effects of caffeine supplementation on strength-power performance, and additional research in this area is warranted. 7.) The scientific literature does not support caffeine-induced diuresis during exercise, or any harmful change in fluid balance that would negatively affect performance.

So there you go.  It may or may not be useful when bouldering, but is certainly going to be helpful when chuffing.

I always like the SCIENCE quotes, I bet some one who can be arsed to  it would find an expert saying something different. I suppose it depends on who is paying for the study.