[M1V0]

don't buy the approach shoes if you actually intend to use them for approaching

Don't buy the portaledge unless someone else is hauling it!

bananafingers/epictv have Sportiva Testarossa 2s at 40% off in many useful sizes.

I like the Testarossa 1s but have not tried the 2s. Some people suggest going down a half size in the 2s, others suggest no change. Anyone worn both?

Can't speak to differences between them, but I sized the 2s as I would for other LaSpo (Solution, Skwama) and found that despite a longer than usual break-in period, they fit fine.

[crzylgs]

Some people might have already seen this as it's posted on their socials etc. £70 Evolv Zenist. Lots of sizes available:

https://bananafingers.co.uk/evolv-zenist

https://bananafingers.co.uk/evolv-zenist-women-s


Does anyone know if there is any difference in fit at all between the mens + womens? The technical spec is exactly the same in terms of rubber and midsole thickness. So it's just a colour preference?

EDIT: On the Evolv website the term 'low volume' is used for the womens, without going into too many specifics.

[fatneck]

Alpine Trek currently have decently sized Moccs / Niads for £55!!

[kac]

Thanks for posting about the evolv zenist. Only just arrived but look really good for £70. Worth saying that they are not kidding about going above your street shoe size. They size tiny!

[spidermonkey09]

https://rockrun.com/collections/la-sportiva-climbing-shoe-clearance/products/la-sportiva-genius?variant=42255417934005

[Duma]

Yeah anyone who loves the no edge shoes should get involved at rock and run or bf. Cheap atm as they get a redesign next year.

[spidermonkey09]

Aghast at the price of Miuras currently; anyone any advice on where to keep an eye out? Not urgent yet but I resent paying £130 although I know this is increasingly standard. Alpinetrek has them at 160!

[SA Chris]

Our local Decathlon was selling some off, was wondering if they are discontinuing keeping them in their range due to increasing costs. Sadly didn't have my hoof size, but might be worth checking locally?

[slab_happy]

https://rockrun.com/collections/la-sportiva-climbing-shoe-clearance/products/la-sportiva-genius?variant=42255417934005

Anyone know what the sizing on the Geniuses and the Futuras is like relative to Miuras?

[remus]

In the unlikely event he doesn't spot this, drop Duma a DM as he wears both.

[Duma]

I do and I've spotted it!

Same sizing for me, though since I use them for different things I wear 40 in futuras and 41 in Miura VS

[slab_happy]

Thanks, appreciated!

[User deactivated.]

The genius is built on one of Sportiva's widest lasts. I find no edge to be like cheating on some footholds (very rarely) but worse on most footholds.

[duncan]

I can go slightly smaller in Geniuses than Miura laces, probably because I have a wide fore-foot. The Genius, and Testarossa which uses the same last, are the only Sportiva shoes that fit me properly. I can climb in a Miura lace but they are not ideal and I find the Miura velcro unwearable.

[205Chris]

Aghast at the price of Miuras currently; anyone any advice on where to keep an eye out? Not urgent yet but I resent paying £130 although I know this is increasingly standard. Alpinetrek has them at 160!

What size are you? Got some box fresh lace ups in size 38 if you're interested? Never worn and still got the tag on.

[spidermonkey09]

Tend to wear velcros these days; I've just taken a punt on a cheap pair of 38s which I'm hoping will fit; am normally a 38.5. Cheers for the offer though!

[Duma]

The genius is built on one of Sportiva's widest lasts.

Really? I thought genius were basically lace up futuras, and futuras def aren't one of their wider shoes.

[User deactivated.]

The genius is built on one of Sportiva's widest lasts.

Really? I thought genius were basically lace up futuras, and futuras def aren't one of their wider shoes.

The Futura is built on the Solution last, which i'd call medium width. The Genius is wider and more asymmetric and shares a last with the Testarossa and Theory.

[tim palmer]

Big depot leeds has scarpa boosters for £68 and unparallel vim for slightly cheaper still.
Had a decent range of sizes on Sunday

[cheque]

Unparallel Sirius £69.95

[J_duds]

Does anyone know what the UP Sirius are like? Are they like the old 5.10 Dragon or firmer/softer?

And does anyone know if the sizing matches up across the UP shoes (i.e. an 8 in Sirius will be like the 8 in a Rise)? 

[Reprobate_Rob]

I've got a pair of Sirius at the moment, last season's I think but they should be the same sizewise. I really like them. Very much like an old dragon. I was a 7 in those and I've got a 7 in the Sirius which are possibly a big more snug but not by much.

[cheque]

Does anyone know what the UP Sirius are like? Are they like the old 5.10 Dragon or firmer/softer?

And does anyone know if the sizing matches up across the UP shoes (i.e. an 8 in Sirius will be like the 8 in a Rise)?

Very similar to Dragons. I’m an 8 I’m Up Rise/ Lace/ Moccs and a 9 in Siriuses.

[Andy W]

Does anyone know what the UP Sirius are like? Are they like the old 5.10 Dragon or firmer/softer?

And does anyone know if the sizing matches up across the UP shoes (i.e. an 8 in Sirius will be like the 8 in a Rise)?

I’d say they are nicely similar. As a long term user of the old dragons, I’m very happy with the Sirius. I’d say they are a little bulkier, and thus feel a bit less soft, not sure if that’s because the sole is a bit stiffer or the firmer bulkier uppers make it feel that way. I think they are marginally bigger in comparative sizes.

[duncan]

I have the mk 1 Sirius (darker blue and black trim) and several pairs of the original Dragons. The size is the same and fit is very similar. I think Sirius uses/d slightly less flexible material for the uppers and don't seem to conform to my feet or be quite as sensitive as Dragons. Small differences. This might be partially the difference between old and middle-aged shoes. The rubber is excellent.

Edit: What Andy just said.