[Drew]

Scarpa (less so but still sometimes notable).

I couldn't choose between the Instinct Slippers in a 40, or a 41.5! I love them, but there can be a massive difference from one batch to the next. Even more than 5.10!

[abarro81]

Scarpa (less so but still sometimes notable).

I couldn't choose between the Instinct Slippers in a 40, or a 41.5! I love them, but there can be a massive difference from one batch to the next. Even more than 5.10!

Maybe it's got worse? I got a new pair the other day and had to try on a couple of different 42.5s to get one that felt right; previously I've just stuck one of that size on and had no problems, or mail ordered them with no issues. (I've worn 42.5 in them for 2 years solid now, probably ~10 pairs - someone must be making money out of this!)

[Drew]

Maybe it's got worse?

I think it might've been one particularly "unusual" batch.

[Fultonius]

I regularly order Scarpas online (I've had Magos, Boosters, Vapour Velcros and Stix and all fitted fine)

[Grubes]

Yes, me, because they fit me far better than 5.10 (massive heels), Scarpa (massive toe box) and La Sportiva (doesn't feel right for some reason).

Andi if you buy evolv, beyond hope are having a sample sale this Sunday in uppermill. Might be worth a visit stuff was dirt cheap last time

This Sunday we are running one of our quarterly sample sales. We will be at Uppermill Museum with past season samples and stock from prAna, Metolius and Evolv.
Once again, we will be running the event in conjunction with local store Mountain Feet and the new specialist climbing shop The Crag Station.

Mountain Feet will be there with great discounts on specialist footwear, and The Crag Station will have introductory vouchers for their shop opening this weekend.

Sunday 30th September 10am - 4pm
Saddleworth Museum, Uppermill

Crag station say they stock 5.10 and sportiva on there website. I have not checked the shop out yet and they weren't at the last sale so I do not know if the offers will be that good or not.

[andy_e]

Cheers, probably won't be able to get to Uppermill on Saturday though (and I've recently bought two new pairs!)

[rodma]

That's 20 different models. And as mentioned, this isn't going to include entry-level shoes. And nobody's mentioned the Miura VS, Arrowheads, Teams (all of which are popular), but nobody's said them, so they don't go on the list.

I'll grant that Anasazi Velcros crop up more than most, hence why everyone and their dog stocks them, but in order for a shop to entice as many customers as possible, they've got to offer everyone's favourites, as well as alternative models (just to try), and then they don't want to alienate the beginners, so to please those 11 people, and as many other people as possible, you're looking at 25 models, bare minimum. Maybe add a few more for women's fit too.

Anyway.... I've accidentally hijacked this thread. Sorry.

I follow your logic.

We need some sort of weighted ranking system to go along with choice, there would obviously always be the staples (anasazis etc), which most people could not function without.

I was thinking about the whole variety thing a lot more and if stix, instincts, boostics etc didn't exist, I'd be completely happy with rockettes and only rockettes, (which aren't really a ladies fit, just a different colour). In saying that, I used to love the dominator lace ups and was gutted when they stopped making them, I must've gone through 8 pairs, they were perfect for me on all terrain, i owned no other shoes at that point in time. Do people actually spend more money on rockshoes in the long run as a result of there being more models available? If so mfrs are doing the right thing

As far as entry level shoes go, it is understandable that each mfr makes a pair, but a shop shouldn't attempt to stock an entry level shoe from every mfr, a shit shoe is a shit shoe after all.

I guess shops may make money from novelty shoes alternative models, but i wouldn't have thought so.

[moose]

Anasazi velcros for all-around performance, or Verdes, especially when I used to climb trad.  Incidentally, does anyone else wish there was a lace-up with the exact same shape as the velcros?  The Verdes are more symmetric and less precise and the Blancos are too narrow.  I am recent convert to Dragons for steep or precise stuff - I have been amazed at how well they suit me for Malham's leaning technicalities (but dread having to break-in another pair). 

I used to love Sportiva; my favourite "steep shoes" were venom slippers but they stopped making them and I got fed up with how quickly the toes of Katanas wore through.  A pair of cheap Miuras almost reawakened the faith but they stretched a lot, very quickly (and life's too short to waste time second-guessing the stretchiness of suede).

[Sasquatch]

+1 for

La Sport Solution - Bouldering without a heel hook
Miura VS - Sport and Bouldering with heel hook

I REALLY want to try some Scarpa's, but we don't have anyone local who carries a good Scarpa selection for me to try on for size/fit.  I've got a ridiculously wide foot, more like a flipper, so almost all shoes fit me weird....

[Styx]

I used to love my 5.10's but I eventually tired of the sloppy heals and switched to Sportiva for most stuff.


5.10 -
Anasazi VCS - Good all rounder, shit heel.
Arrowhead - Awesome for standing on tiny nubbins and toeing in to pockets, very precise and satisfying. Except once they had fully stretched out my heel literally fell out of the shoe when toeing in on holds.
Newtons - Solid all day trad shoe, comfortable but about as aggressive as a clown shoe.

La Sportiva -
Miura Lace - THE all round top performance shoe, imo. It fits like a glove and edges like a beast. Probably not the best for grit until well broken in but I'm no fan of grit anyhow.
Miura VS - As above, sized another half size down from my lace ups for red points and steeper stuff. Sexy shoes. Shame I can't wear them for longer periods, boo.

Evolv -
Bandits - Recently picked up a pair for training indoors, comfy and fit my foot perfectly, cheap too.

[Muenchener]

La Sportiva -
Miura Lace - THE all round top performance shoe, imo. It fits like a glove and edges like a beast.

+1
Best Shoe Ever.

Miura VS - As above, sized another half size down from my lace ups for red points and steeper stuff. Sexy shoes. Shame I can't wear them for longer periods, boo.

Didn't like the fit of these when I tried them in the shop, even though they're supposed to be the same last (P75) as the Laces.

Was much less impressed with Katanas. Velcro Katanas broke down quickly and lost all semblance of support, and I just don't feel secure in Katana Laces. Probably they're too broad for my feet - noticeably wider than same size Miuras.

(What does any of this have to do with "cheap", apart from the fact that nobody has mentioned Boldrinis?)

[Styx]

Miura VS - As above, sized another half size down from my lace ups for red points and steeper stuff. Sexy shoes. Shame I can't wear them for longer periods, boo.

Didn't like the fit of these when I tried them in the shop, even though they're supposed to be the same last (P75) as the Laces.

Yeah, weird how they're supposedly the same last, almost everyone I know who has compared them thinks they have a different fit, possibly due to the P3 platform giving more of a downturn? If anything, they fit my feet better than the laces, I just sized them a bit too tightly for long term comfort. They do feel like you're wearing rubber talons on your feet tho, ace

[erm, sam]

I am on my first pair of Muira velcros and I think they are fantastic. I never liked the lace up version at all.
I find my greens are better for pure slabbing but the the VSs are better for everything else, and the heel is fantastic. I love them.

[standard]

Every time i come here, I expect to find a shoe bargain, but it's just you lot discussing your favourite shoes!

[slackline]

Hang around a bit longer you do get some on-topic posting.

[andyh]

Go Outdoors have a 15% off voucher on their website - this week only.

Just got some Scarpa Vapours for 76 quid.

[Ste]

We are running an Evolv boot demo tomorrow evening (Tuesday) with Matt Birch. Plenty of Evolv shoes to try out and we running 15% off RRP on Evolv purchases on the evening.


Cheers

Steve D

[Muenchener]

Every time i come here, I expect to find a shoe bargain, but it's just you lot discussing your favourite shoes!

I am disgustingly smug because I have an excellent local shop that does e.g. Miura Laces for 99 Euros plus 10% discount for purchases over 100 Euros, so I just have buy a couple of metres of ab tat - always useful given my level of alpine ability - or a krab, and voila, 72 quid Miuras. (They don't do mail order)

And four hours down the road is Arco, the discount climbing gear capital of the world.

[slackline]

Save money on shoes at Rock and Run today (worth following on Twitter or Farcebook for such offers)...

[tomtom]

hmm - possibly not (though it might be worth trying..) good spot though SL.

[tomtom]

hmm - possibly not (though it might be worth trying..) good spot though SL.

Bastards. Just tried to order a bouldering Mat and it wouldnt apply the discount... Pah.

[shark]

Hornets £65 from the Depot

[slackline]

hmm - possibly not (though it might be worth trying..) good spot though SL.

Sly, I'm sure I've seen rock shoes under climbing in the past.

[tomtom]

hmm - possibly not (though it might be worth trying..) good spot though SL.

Sly, I'm sure I've seen rock shoes under climbing in the past.

Yeah - though since when has a bouldering mat not been climbing equipment eh! *shakes fist*

[standard]

Hornets £65 from the Depot

50 quid in selected sizes: http://www.rockrun.com/products/Five-Ten-Hornet.html