[TobyD]

OK, so lets set up a poll... find out what peoples present favourite (as in presently available) shoes are.. if we get an idea of the popular ones from different brands here these can then be plugged into a UKB poll..

Velcros for most things
Blancos for edges
Dragons or Testarossas for toe down
Galileos for trad (or really long sport routes)

Imelda Marcos?  I don't usually have all of these on the go at the same time. 

[cheque]

Greens for smearing
Whites for edging
Only just got my first pair of downturned shoes so can't comment on my favourites for that yet, particularly as my choice was based on being able to get them for free.

[abarro81]

5.10s are for losers.
Scarpa Instinct lace-ups all the way.

[Three Nine]

5.10s are for losers.
Giant floppy clown shoes all the way.

[Wood FT]

5.10s are for losers unless they offer me sponsorship in which case
Scarpa Instinct lace-ups can go hang.

[tommytwotone]

PINK ANASAZI FOR EVERYTHING!

(...prefereably worn while eating a pain au chocolat...)

More seriously...

Velcros for most stuff (one pair knackered and soft, one pair newer and stiffer)
Dragons for steep / anything requiring a working heel

[Fultonius]

Steep Sport: Scarpa Magos
Trad/Smeary Vertical and Less Overhanging bouldering: Scarpa Vapour Velcro
Hard bouldering: Scarpa Stix/5.10 Dragons

Getting annoyed with bagged out pieces of crap, 5.10 Blancos.

[Grubes]

Indoors 5.10 5x
Everything else velcro's/quantum

[rodma]

Used to buy (and will continue to use) stix for most things, then instinct slippers, which are lovely if a little soft, but really need something with velcro when i come up short.

Have just purchased boostics, which actually fit my feet better than the boosters/rockette did and have also got solutions (which most people who own seem to like a lot)

I used to be a 5.10 fan until scarpa started making shoes that fitted nicely and wore pinks almost exclusively, with the odd pair of anasazi velcros thrown in for good measure.

[tomtom]

OK so we've got Scarpa and 5:10 covered (I think) - anyone with the la Sportiva side? Testarossa's have been mentioned, Solutions I guess?

any more for any more?

[andyh]

should i buy that cheap pair of pontas I've seen?

[slackline]

should i buy that cheap pair of pontas I've seen?

If you want to.

[rodma]

should i buy that cheap pair of pontas I've seen?

If you want to.

Hell i even almost bought a pair of boldrinis out of desperation

[mrjonathanr]

Scarpa Magos:   limestone and boards
Scarpa Instinct lace: everything else.

[tomtom]

no La Sportiva fanboi's out there?
calling the Boreal massive...

[r-man]

Testarossas - but I'm not sure these are even available in the UK?
Boreals (currently falcons) because no other heels will stay on my feet. If only I could get falcons and testarossas to become sole-mates and take the footsying to another level, I'd wear their babies. (Obviously I'd drown the ones with falcon toes and testarossa heels).

[abarro81]

Scarpa Magos:   limestone and boards
Scarpa Instinct lace: everything else.

Have you tried the instincts on lime? I was quickly converted from the Magos when I got my first pair 2 years ago, I find them much better for pulling with my toes on steep ground.

[mrjonathanr]

Thanks - I'll take them to the Tor if it dries and compare. The Vibram Grip2 is noticeably sticker than the first stuff. I quite like the Magos tho - when they got discounted at the Works I bought 3 pairs

[nai]

no La Sportiva fanboi's out there?

I wear Katana laces for various stuff, first pair of the pointy-toe genre not sure if I'll stick with them next time (would have to remove a toe to get Dragons on).
otherwise greens or velcros for most non-lime stuff

 

[chris j]

OK, so lets set up a poll... find out what peoples present favourite (as in presently available) shoes are..

Scarpa Vapour Velcros (vertical & steeper lime)
Red Chilli Corona (indoor)

[Drew]

So far I count 15 people (I'm adding myself here), mentioning:

Scarpa Mago
Scarpa Instinct Lace
Scarpa Instinct Slipper
Scarpa Stix
Scarpa Boostics
Scarpa Vapour Velcro

La Sportiva Solutions
La Sportiva Cobra
La Sportiva Speedster
La Sportiva Testarossa
La Sportiva Katana Lace

5.10 Anasazi Velcro
5.10 5X
5.10 Quantum
5.10 Dragon
5.10 Anasazi V2
5.10 Anasazi Verde
5.10 Galileo

Red Chilli Corona

Boreal Falcon

That's 20 different models. And as mentioned, this isn't going to include entry-level shoes. And nobody's mentioned the Miura VS, Arrowheads, Teams (all of which are popular), but nobody's said them, so they don't go on the list.

I'll grant that Anasazi Velcros crop up more than most, hence why everyone and their dog stocks them, but in order for a shop to entice as many customers as possible, they've got to offer everyone's favourites, as well as alternative models (just to try), and then they don't want to alienate the beginners, so to please those 11 people, and as many other people as possible, you're looking at 25 models, bare minimum. Maybe add a few more for women's fit too.

Anyway.... I've accidentally hijacked this thread. Sorry.

[andy_e]

Evolv?

[abarro81]

Does anyone pay money for evolvs??

On the subject of stocking multiples of a size - it can be really useful due to the variation within a given size which I've experienced with 5.10 (major issue) and Scarpa (less so but still sometimes notable).

[andy_e]

Yes, me, because they fit me far better than 5.10 (massive heels), Scarpa (massive toe box) and La Sportiva (doesn't feel right for some reason).

[SamD]

Sad thing for me is no shop can stock my shoe of choice because lyon won't import them. Like the sound of the testarossa's too but wait! Nope, won't import them either. Have become alot more disappointed with la sportiva recently since they started putting XS edge on a number of their models - it just doesn't perform anywhere near well as XS Grip 2.