[tomtom]

STG 7b+

This week I have climbed nothing nor trained.
Work/Illness/Conference excuses. Bah humbug 

The only way is up!

[Dr T]

a couple of short sessions on the wall at school
an hour at the local wall
and 45 minutes in the shed on my 45 deg

always started strong but power flowed away too quickly

It's as much mental as physical tiredness

A 15 month old suffering with night terrors, teething, a stomach bug and a probable ear infection has not resulted in a great deal of sleep this week 

[richdraws]

STG - The press.
LTG - go and burn off Sharik.

Wed - works for 20 mins until the fire alarm went off and gave me an excuse to leave the sweaty pit. Went home and campussed for a bit in the cellar until I felt raped. Then had a few pints of meal replacement ale.

Sat - made progress on the press, slipped off just as I was going for the jug. Will keep at it.

I have been sticking to the twice per week training to almost failure and am seeing steady progress.

[roddersm]

STG Goals:

Trad:
Peak: Flying Buttress Direct HVS, L'horla E1, Qietus E2
Wales: Cemetry Gates E1, Left wall E2, Comes the Dervish E3
Ireland: Pitchfork Wit E1, Birdie, sightseer both E2, Pump up the valium, lighweight lewis denvers both E3 (All Muckross).
Rail Road E1, Jolly Roger E3, GBH E3 (Fairhead), Other Fish E4 6b (Culdaff, Headpoint, dont ask), Gallows pole E2, Lucy E2, Siren E3 (Burren)
Boulder Chubbs Patterson 7a(+?) Fairhead , Carbide 7a Fairhead
sport onsight 7a (minimum) . Onsight debelof 6c+ and biscott margerine 6b+ in verdon.
Indoor: Do stamina project in the wall. Compete in irish bouldering championships and don't come last.

LTG's:
Trad:
Profit of Doom E4,Right Wall E5, London Wall E5, Rusty Halo E4, Wall of Fossils E4, Strapodictimy E5, Flesh E5, Operation mindcrime E5, Wall of Pray E5, Gaia E8 (Headpoint - some chance but I'll put it down)
Sport: Redpoint 8a, Onsight 7b+. Je suis un legend 7a+ Verdon. Mirage 7c+ Ceuse.
Boulder: 7b+, Midnight lightning. Biceps mou, Homeward bound
Big Wall: Climb the Nose on El Cap.

Mon  Rest.
Tue   Climbing wall session 1.5 hours bouldering.
Wed  Ran 40 min approx. Injured achilles tendon.
Thur  Climbing wall session 1.5 hours bouldering.
Fri     Rest.
Sat   Climbing wall session 1.5 hours bouldering.
Sun   Nothing too busy with coursework  .

Not a great week. Felt tired in the wall and didn't manage to get my endurance project in the wall and injured my achilles tendon running on wednesday. Too busy this weekend with coursework to get climbing despite the whether being brilliant. Aims this week are to get out climbing or bouldering tomorrow for a few hours, do my project in the wall during the week and maybe enter the irish bouldering champs next weekend and not come last. Main goal between now and next week is to get to fairhead and do carbide 7a if I can convince some people to come and spot.   

[Fiend]

Goals:
More rad, more syked.

This week:
Mon - n/a
Tue - 2 hours medium/hard bouldering indoors, felt weak, but okay, finger fine.
Wed - 2 1/2 hours steep/challenging leading indoors, felt strong and fit, best leading session for a while, finger a bit sore due to pockets.
Thu - n/a / arms sore and tired.
Fri - n/a
Sat - 3 hours sustained leading indoors, felt even stronger and fitter, best leading session for a year, finger okay due to smaller holds, neck achey
Sun - 2 hours mixed dogging at Dumby, a gnat's fart from flashing F7a, missed due to casual tactics, finger a bit sore and shoulder achey from dubious sleep.

Comments:
A very good week of training, much better than I anticipated. Felt good throughout and body held up well although a bit of rest and therabanding will be needed. Getting back on the rock at Dumby felt natural and I reckon this physical top-up will benefit my trad rather than detriment it (as too much indoors/sport can sometimes do). Keen to get back on with it as well as mixing things up.

[nai]

STG - RnR, get over tweaks for a few weeks, font next week
MTG - summer of string & training
LTG - 7Cs next season

M -
T -
W - couple of hours at Gardoms early doors, got to the last move of Marks Roof several times only to grease off.  18 degrees and very still though so maybe not surprising.  5 one armers per arm back at home.
T
F - hour and half at Rubicon, wasn't bothered about doing anything just wanted to pull hard and have a good work out. Left boxed.
S - Read about staggered pullups and thought it might help mantle strength (Marks Roof and Font in mind).  Did a quick warm up then 5x3 per arm, pretty good quick workout.
S - Pretty sore

Probably did too much for my stated goals but it was all fun.  Psyche still low and appetite high although I'll be looking for a window of lower temps to get back on MR in.  Font next week so this week will be quiet, skin preservation mode has been engaged.

[shark]

Thanks for starting thread duma

Goal: Oak. 10,000 8a nu points
Weight: 11.3-6

M. AM Tor 3 goes on Toilet. PM Booked for a long weekend in Spain  . Weights Powerclean and Deadlift PB's with no training  Eve Took boys to Foundry and did 20 mins ARC.
T. Fingery board endurance session.
W.
T. AM Tor. Greasy conditions 3 goes on Toilet PM Run/jog with youngest son thru Endcliffe Park
F.
S.AM Tor Good conditions 3 goes on Toilet - nearly got thru first crux section but foot slipped.
S. PM Took boys bouldering at Rubicon - didnt climb myself.

Weighed in this morning at a very satisfying 11.3 but ate out this evening. Tor tomorrow morning with hope. Looking forward to 4 day trip to Spain (possibly Tres Ponts) on 12th.
 

[andy popp]

Mon: Nothing
Tues: Excellent evening out, warm up on usual circuit then do two excellent new problems. No real idea of the grades.
Wed: Repeaters on fingerboard, inc several sets with 9kg added weight.
Thurs: Excellent dinner out (Puschka for any scousers interested)
Fri: Swim 30x25m, try to keep pace up to reasonable level throughout, followed by sauna and jacuzzi. Feel nicely worked afterwards
Sat: Walk round Walker art gallery.
Sun: Short session of pull ups on fingerboard, some sets weighted (9kg).

Pros: have actually forced myself to make some effort this week; Tues was a bloody brilliant evening. Cons: have ended up drinking quite a lot this weekend.

[Plattsy]

Boulder 7A+
Weight 13st 7lbs (-2lbs)

M: 100mins walk.
T: 90mins walk.
W: 120mins walk + pressups - back feeling a lot better.
T: Nowt.
F: Bouldered at Rubicon. Made progress on A Miller's Tale + pressups.
S: 240mins walk.
S: Bouldered at Rubicon and bagged A Miller's Tale + pressups.

Slow week ending well. 
Starting to dig limestone bouldering which has amazed me. Didn't really get on with it to start with but I'm glad I've persevered.

[petejh]

Goal:  VIII, F8a, E8 & f8a in 2010.
Level now: IX, F7a+, E3, f7b.

Goals for April: Left Wall Traverse, Clever Beaver, Axle Attack, Night Glue (all done),
Foulish Ghoulish 7b+,
any 2 of Colussus, Centrefold, Memory Lane, Quasar, Stroll On, Foil, E3.  (Colussus and Centrefold done).

m. Started doing 'Turkish get ups' to improve shoulder and back strength. 10kg.
t. Short sesh -  4x4 on 3 v3's and a v2. pumped to failure on last two sets.
w.
t. Short sesh at Pen Trwyn - warmed up, tried Plaqued by Fools and repaetedly fell off crux.
f. Rhoscolyn - led Wild Rover and Centrefold, brilliant.
s. Dinorwig - warmed up, led Colussus, brill.
s. Turkish get ups @ 15kg. V.short bouldering sesh at indi, skin still bad so knocked it on head early.

Almost the perfect month, didn't get Foulish.. but everything else went to plan. Will send Foulish.. soon I hope.

[Fiend]

I seemed to weigh in at 12 stone last night, before and after food, before and after a logging session, and also this morning. What happened to being 10 1/2 stone a couple of years ago??

[Andy F]

Mon - rest
Tues - car broke down, did nothing.
Wed - nowt
Thurs - got car back, zilch training
Fri - zero
Sat - as much as the rest of the week
Sun - decorated, 5 pull-ups.
0/10, must do better. Motivation has evaporated. Drank too much all weekend. Feel heavy and weak. TBH I'm  with myself.

[cmerch]

Goals: 8a and V8
Mon: 3 mile hilly run, mow grass, 20 minute campus
Tues: Rock Ring workout inspired by chris_j_s. Thanks Chris!
Wed: 4 mile run
Thurs: Climb at Foster Falls, do three easy routes (5-6's,) get on 7a+ for two burns
Fri: Back to Foster Falls, do one easy route (5), get on 7a+ again for two burns. Side note: Lynn Hill was out climbing today, talked with her some.
Sat: 20 minute run
Sun: 30 minute Moon fingerboard workout
OK week, power felt good on the 7a, lacking endurance

Glad to see andy popp had a better week, Cheers!

[chris05]

Considering how much work I have had on this weeks not been too bad. Had a bit of a scare with both middle finger A2's feeling sore but a bit of rest and icing seems to have helped.

M: 90 mins beastmaker (3xrepeaters) & 20 mins core
T: 30 mins fingery traversing, 5 mile run & 30 mins core
W: 30 mins core & 30 mins theraband
T: nothing
F: nothing
S: work
S: good bouldering session at clifftop and cratcliffe & 5 mile run

Going to be really busy at work for the next month so quite happy if I can get a few runs and the odd beastmaker session to maintain fitness.

[Richie Crouch]

Goals for 2010: In Hell, Clyde, Halfway House (Parisellas), NES part 1, Octopussy, Cote du Seshuan (Magic Wood)

Mon: Trained P.E. Circuits of 20 moves on 45 board and in crypt roof until I nearly died, poor show. Finished with leg raises/pressups/pullups circuit.
Tue: Rest
Wed: Short session. Campus laddering 1-3-5-7-9-10-9-7-5-3-1 up and down, then 15 feet together multiple angle leg raises, 20 pressups and back on to the campus board with a 30 sec rest for water (repeat 5 times).
Thurs: Rest
Fri: Parisella's, climbed like a leper. Only managed to get to R.A. glued flake 2/2 attempts from IH start so sacked it and did some crap linkups on left wall followed by pottering around the right lip area.
Sat: Bought some new trainees and watched The Ghost at Fact, decent film.
Sun: Magnesium carbonate boulderising. Nice day out despite the showers! Managed a few 7C's and scoped out future projects for summer.

[Jaspersharpe]

I seemed to weigh in at 12 stone last night, before and after food, before and after a logging session, and also this morning. What happened to being 10 1/2 stone a couple of years ago??

Lay off the Big Macs word.

[duncan]

STG: E3, El Cap.
LTG: E5

M - Nothing
T - Nothing
W - Walked/Jogged 6km
T - Walked/jogged 8km
F - Very gentle shoulder stability stuff
S - Nothing
S - Very gentle shoulder stability stuff; Walked/jogged 10km

Last week's inevitable 'good' shoulder tweak has turned into something more than that.  Not great timing for a trip to Yosemite in two weeks. 

[Falling Down]

I seemed to weigh in at 12 stone last night, before and after food, before and after a logging session, and also this morning. What happened to being 10 1/2 stone a couple of years ago??

It's called getting older.

[Jaspersharpe]

Speak for yourself. 

[Davo]

Monday: Rested

Tuesday: Cave, brief go on Trigger Cut but yet again felt hard. Did Bust Lip. Fell off last move of Broken Hear in bid to get it wired for doing The Wire (eventually, vey long-term). Will probably keep working this one a bit back into the cave each session now. Did Clever Cleaver sit start. Tried We've a Beaver but was too tired to complete. Did Left Wall Low twice as training.

Wednesday: Fingerboarded weighted session with 6kgs. Felt very tired. Did some weighted pull ups (13.5kgs) later but felt even more tired.

Thursday: Wall, circuit session, almost managed to develop a decent circuit. Lapped it a few times. Still needs tweaking a bit to make harder. 2 or 3 ladders on campus board. Need to keep doing this for power endurance.

Friday: Wrecked

Saturday: Kilnsey, warm and dry for about 1 hour then devil wind came in. 3 redpoints on Grooved Arete. Getting slightly higher each time. Hopefully only a couple more sessions will be needed. Such a good climb. Watched Ondra making Northern Star look like pretty reasonabl climbing!

Sunday: Malham. Got comprehensively spanked! Failed on warm up 7a, pumped and worried about slipping off glassy footholds. Failed on The Minimum but enjoyed it and would be happy to try again. Failed on warm down 7a, kanckered and worried about feet slipping off the glass like footholds.

Overall a good week. Felt like I am very slowly gaining some power endurance.

[andybfreeman]

STG - get route fit for Spain, stay uninjured
MTG - just revenge @ ansteys
LTG - climb 7B or harder in the forest in December

M - rest
T - gym, last pt session + 30 seconds on 30 seconds off sprints on the rowing machine
W - power session on Mark's board. Good session, feeling strong on pockets
Th - quick session at TCA. onsighted 6c+/7a circuit then worked some of the moves on the new 8a+/8b circuit and did some fun problems on the mothership
F - rest + cider after work. ended up being a messy night
Sa - more cider in Leamington with Dan.
Su - indoor session at Warwick. Felt pretty rough and struggled on anything hard but decent mileage i suppose

Weight down to 66.5kg on Thursday and Friday morning the 65.9kg on Sat but only because of dehydration from Friday night.

Fun but frustrating (wet) day in  the peak. despite the rain. managed boing boy + all the easy stuff at cliff boulders in the short dry spells

[JohnM]

M: Rest.
T: LPT - reclimbed some routes up to 7b and got spanked on the crack of Over the Moon - swore never to get on it again.....again!
W: Finger board, PE circuits, core and weighted pull ups.
T: Bouldering at Stockport wall and feet on PE training on the campus board.
F: Rest.
S: Gogarth upper tier - routes up to E5.  Spanked on E6/7 onsight attempt.
S: Awesome E3 on Castell Cidwm and bouldering in the Pass.

[chillax]

STG: Onsight fair head E3, project at murlough bay, don't come last at the comp next weekend
MTG: Decent front lever, projects in dalkey and wicklow, find and do something new at the head
LTG: Climb E7

Mon: zilch
Tues: Good core session then some running and skipping
Wed: Lots of pullups and pushups
Thurs: nada
Fri: Get a lift out to Cruit island in Donegal, do some nice new boulder problems at around 6a, spot and clean a new route
Sat: Easy climbing on Cruit. Try route but get rained off.
Sun: Fun day at Gola. Led a superb Severe chimney which isn't to everyones taste, then did a lovely steep pumpy E1.
Mon: Led route at E1 5b. My first new route, quite pleased as its a good line. Finished off with a McGinley session at home. Completed the whole thing for the first time and did a decent one armer on right arm.

Quite a good week all in all. Kicked the fags (again  ) and have decided to go for a 20min run every time I fancy a rollie in the evenings. Great long weekend out in Donegal as I'd never climbed there before. The islands and coastal crags have huge potential for routes of E1 and above, if only the weather was better. Think I'll give the pullups and pushups a break for a while as I think I've got a trapped nerve in my left arm. More core and running instead.

[lagerstarfish]

goals; enjoy Font in June
           font 7c
           still be doing 7a when I'm 70


Mon/Tues - Arthritis or virus kicks in. All joints hurt, especially ones that have been injured (about 40% of them)
Wed - spend 5 hours tidying cellar and garden; moving heavy stuff under low ceiling and bending over a lot. Hurt lower back
Thurs/Fri - cycle a bit and light dumbbell complexi (5kg). Old injuries still hurting lots. Feel old.
Sat - fingers still bad, big joints better. Few sets of (12 pull ups + dumbbell complex #1 @ 12kg + 20 pressups)
Sun - Iddy Biddy's first birthday party. Manage to keep pulse below 180bpm as house fills with in-laws and social phobia justifies itself. Self medicate with Stella Artois (2x440ml as initial dose and then 440ml every 30 mins) and cakes (2 before and after food).

[chris_j_s]

Tues: Rock Ring workout inspired by chris_j_s. Thanks Chris!

No worries, hope you felt suitably beasted afterwards!

Weight: 60kg

Aims for 2010: rp 7b+ sport, o/s 6c+ sport, 7A+ boulder.

M: Routes at Giggleswick. Various 6b+/6c onsights and onsight attempts.
T: Bouldered at Craig y Longridge. Did a 6C traverse and worked on a 7A traverse. Having seen the list of route grades for traverses on the wiki I'm tempted to get stuck into those to try and improve my power endurance which I think may be suffering a bit with fewer indoor wall sessions.
W: Dead hangs and rock ring workout.
T: Rest day.
F: Malham routes. Did Rose Coronary 3 times to put clips/top rope up for Mrs S and had two redpoints on Something Stupid. Still haven't got it but better links than before.
S + S: Mates stag do.    This is not the best preparation for my intended routes session at Malham on Monday I must admit... I did manage 45 mins on the rock rings on Sunday evening though.