[Johnny Brown]

What's your beta on theis Secret Places then?

[brad]

What's your beta on theis Secret Places then?

rh on vague seam lh on crease/feature rt on smear  go up with lh to next feature l heel on feature top with lh then finish right on good holds, if you finish left its not as good

[Johnny Brown]

Ah right, I was starting from the undercuts.

[Bonjoy]

Did Brad’s Arete the Presence of Absence (snappy title that one!) yesterday. Destined to become an area classic I reckon. Me and the other two folk who did it thought 6c+ tops, but you shouldn’t be disheartened by the downgrade, it’s the quality that matters.
Also did a couple of probs on an area further along, above a ledge, between the Greenman block and your new slab area. Probs well cleaned so I imagine you’ve already done them. One up the right side of the biggish arete on the left, good quality 6c/+. The other one up another left pointing arete about 4m right, nice climbing above a spicily narrow landing, 6bish? Do these have names already?

[Johnny Brown]

Talking of snappy titles, what is 'Rex Rgis of Rusticus Res' all about?

[brad]

snappy title  im glad you think it fits.. thanks jon.

i too think the area is something special esp since its so hidden on lil old stanton moor and also the bold arete with good landing, great little place

well..im not too bothered about the grade now like you say, i realise that it was my newness to it and shoes that added the extra few notches (red chili spirits) i popped my pink five tens on and its a different problem even tho they have holes on the toes, thats why i tryed the red chilis on my return to grit bouldering, i thought il get a pair of cheapish boots and thats what i got lol but now i know better....once again!

the climbing may be 6c+ but overall could be 7A soft?

do you mean instant death ledge if you rolled off? just around the corner and down from king stone? if so then no...i cleaned them just after finding the slabs and just before finding the secret boulders, (oct 20th) i cleaned them and meant to do them but had so much to do i forgot actually so they are all yours if you want 

rex rgis of rustica res in english means "king of the rural object"

[Bonjoy]

The Instant Death Ledge would be an apropriate name for that buttress  ! Jamie did the better of the two lines (the left arete) first so  he'll have to name that one. I’ll call the right arete with the narrow landing Rue d’Awakening.

[Bonjoy]

Forgot to mention earlier. Took my bowsaw to the Andle Stone and have cut back the Rhododendrons which had rather overtaken the boulder recently. The left arete problems are now nice and clear, as is Pat King’s prob Spook which goes up the wall a few metres left. Tried Spook, which is as I’d been told very reach dependant. The 7a grade is probably correct if you can reach (no way if under six foot). I suspect most people will have to do a ballsy dyno to the very sloping top (looks 7b at least), but I didn’t try this as I didn’t have a spot.
Also tried the arete left of Andle Stone Wall on its lhs. This seems a huge sandbag at the 6b+ grade it’s given in the Ru’s guide, but it was dirty and I didn’t have a spot so didn’t give it a proper go. Wouldn’t be surprised if it turns out to be classic and more like 6c+/7a when clean. Anyone done it and know otherwise (cue Johnny Brown with vaguest of vague Pat King related memory)?

[brad]

The Instant Death Ledge would be an apropriate name for that buttress  ! Jamie did the better of the two lines (the left arete) first so  he'll have to name that one. I’ll call the right arete with the narrow landing Rue d’Awakening.

brilliant! instant death ledge it is then
good names jon  , its nice to see someone else getting things done and having a bit of the pie, i felt all alone this last winter up there in all weathers, fog drizzle snow etc,  the beauty of the place made up tho and i loved the discovery of it all, iv got some video footage of it before i developed it, someone one day may be interested when it comes out in the guide book, it would be a good thing to put a picture of it before being developed in the guide just for nostalgic purposes, what do you think?

[brad]

Forgot to mention earlier. Took my bowsaw to the Andle Stone and have cut back the Rhododendrons which had rather overtaken the boulder recently. The left arete problems are now nice and clear, as is Pat King’s prob Spook which goes up the wall a few metres left. Tried Spook, which is as I’d been told very reach dependant. The 7a grade is probably correct if you can reach (no way if under six foot). I suspect most people will have to do a ballsy dyno to the very sloping top (looks 7b at least), but I didn’t try this as I didn’t have a spot.
Also tried the arete left of Andle Stone Wall on its lhs. This seems a huge sandbag at the 6b+ grade it’s given in the Ru’s guide, but it was dirty and I didn’t have a spot so didn’t give it a proper go. Wouldn’t be surprised if it turns out to be classic and more like 6c+/7a when clean. Anyone done it and know otherwise (cue Johnny Brown with vaguest of vague Pat King related memory)?

just seen this post after i just posted the last one
nice work with the bowsaw!  very much needed, i remember doing the arete on its right (the only problem at that time before i added the 7b and 7c problem to the right, this is about late 97ish just before the fax09 guide came out and the bushes to the left were no way near the arete
of course i wasnt around for the rupert davies guide book which featured all these areas id been to and worked although i do believe someone did try to contact me for info but id moved house in about 2002 ish from winster and wasnt into bouldering at the time so i missed the opportunity to hand over all my knowlage of these boulder problems. it was only last year i bought a copy of peak bouldering! and noticed the andlestone and stanton moor documented, to you guys im sure im comming across as tho iv been in a time warp which i sort of have

so now i see a "rons wall" and andle impossible, a 7B to its left, i can accept this and dont have a problem with it as i missed the boat so to speak
although ron had been on stanton moor briefly soon after the fax09 book came out (as i told him about the area for potential new boulders in 98 when he used to be a regular at cratcliffe on every friday coz of the new guide) the next time we saw each other (weeks later) he said to me that there were bits and bobs here and there that he found but nothing was documented so he was a bit unsure, it was at this time he came across the andlestone but im sure he did the problems in 2001ish anyway..thats how it was but i did all the problems bar 2 on the andlestone in late97/98
i used to go to either rowtor, eagle tor stanton brads block rhs cratcliffe always to find new problems it was great and still is

god i can go on cant i?
im just in the middle of making a concrete shed base so its nice to nip in and have chat and a rest

the stanton estate is in coop with the peak park for the control of "weed trees" on stanton moor like birch also rodder bushes and ferns which are sprouting up all over the moor,  they are always looking for volunteers to help with getting rid of these, if you go up on the moor you will notice that quite a number of big birch trees have been felled and rodder bushes cut and burned, nice flowers on them but in modderation so your bowsaw work is well apreciated and much needed

[cofe]

did the arete today. great problem. we thought 7a at first but could see how it probably isn't quite that hard once you know how. so 6c+ is fair. [controversial] i'd say the climbing is better than that on spare rib. [/controversial]

[Johnny Brown]

i'd say the climbing is better than that on spare rib

Its not, but we all enjoy stuff more when we're not struggling with problems at our limit.

[cofe]

reminded me of a nice little wall i did up at stanage last week near anniversay arete.

[cofe]

back on topic: does anyone know the beta for demon wall? we found it at the end but didn't try it.

[jowgli]

Is Bump n Grind in the new froggatt guide the same problem as spook, descriptions seem the same...

[Bonjoy]

Yeah. Spook is the correct name, or at least the one given by the FA Pat King. The line to it's right hasn't been done yet.

[jowgli]

cheers, seems a bit strange to make up a name for a problem rather than just ask the person who climbed it! hey ho

[brad]

back on topic: does anyone know the beta for demon wall? we found it at the end but didn't try it.

i remember someone contesting that they had done this problem years ago (mid 90s) but this is how i found it..

aweful landing...needs pads, we didnt have those then, not the type of boulder problem to do in the 90s (a bit grim and desperate) as there was all of stanton moor to go and do new boulder problems on apart from brutal arete.

i pulled a 4"thick  2ft sq turf from the top of the boulder, it sat in the finishing groove, i also had to cut a  4" diameter branch from the oak tree to top out otherwize you couldnt top out as the branch swung down right in the way, the branch was old as oaks grow slow. lots of large and small nibs of grit that pulled off with any force from hands but especially feet.
thats how it was late last year.

the beta is this...lh jam rh undercut lf on smeary arete...pull on and jam right foot in break..when ready release rh from jam and point your arm at the finish hold, next: hop your lf up a little and you should reach the top.
now you know the secret the grade is already less

go and do it and get second accent or 3rd

good luck!

John

[Brown Trousers]

cheers, seems a bit strange to make up a name for a problem rather than just ask the person who climbed it! hey ho

Sorry - my mistake.

Reuben

[Bonjoy]

Brad, I don't doubt a word of what you say regards the state of the problem when you found it. However Jamie Lilleman did climb this some years ago. I know because i was there along with James Marsh (Boggo) and repeated it the same day. It wasn't mid nineties, it was a year or two after the place had been documented in the mags, so whenever that was, I guess late 90's or early 00's. It always amazes me how much a neglected prob can get overgrown in two years, let alone ten. take Stanton-in-the-Woods for instance, seems to need re-gardening every year. No wonder it got 'discovered' so many times.
For what it's worth I think folk should report stuff at the time rather than retro claim them some years down the line and I sympathise with your possible annoyance. It's happened to me a few times too.

[uptown]

However Jamie Lilleman did climb this some years ago. I know because i was there along with James Marsh (Boggo) and repeated it the same day.

Yep - and I took you all there and showed you it. Big hands did do it first - it helps to have his hands and reach. Great problem, weird how it gets overlooked.

[brad]

For what it's worth I think folk should report stuff at the time rather than retro claim them some years down the line and I sympathise with your possible annoyance. It's happened to me a few times too.

your right jon, folk should report stuff at the time, i do like to be as factual as possible just so it sits right in history, at least a future guide book has a chance of getting it right rather than guess work,  its in my own interest and not anyone elses.
the guide book author should have got in touch with me really and asked, i didnt get to find out that one was being written at the time.
i bet my great great grandfather knew of all the hidden boulders on stanton moor in the 1800s as he was head gamekeeper for 30 years at stanton estates, hes buried in elton church yard.
Thanks,
John

[account_inactive]

 

[grimer]

the guide book author should have got in touch with me really and asked, i didnt get to find out that one was being written at the time.

I'm not sure which guide you're referring to but in general tracking everyone down who is involved in development is a massive task that has to be balanced against the delay that results. Maybe the author should have contacted you. Maybe they even tried? There's a lot to do in a project like that and I'm sure everyone who produces guides to anywhere goes to masses of effort to get them spot on but sometimes you have to just get on with it. It's bad, but in many ways unavoidable, if real errors do happen. But if you have 10 things to do and each one of them is going to take a couple of hours then tracking pat king down to get the name of a slightly obscure problem might slip off the to-do list.

Time and energy aren't infinite but people do put a lot of effort in. Reuben, for example, who after all his great work ends up having to register on UKB in order to apologise for naming a problem.

That's life 

[cofe]

well said grimer. some people need to get a grip.