[brad]

iv unearthed and added 2 new bouldering venues to stanton moor recently ..you can locate them here ....http://www.peakbouldering.info/crags/30 
also a few more problems dotted around like here...http://www.peakbouldering.info/crags/30/boulders/633
and of course..overlook arete left of my left foot.
enjoy
Brad

[slackline]

Nice one 

[r-man]

Great stuff. The highball 7B looks brilliant.

[brad]

cheers  its even better when your on it 
its high but great landing...flat as a pancake

[Ru]

Demon Wall also looks very good, and in such an obvious spot I'm suprised no-one noticed it before, including me.

[brad]

me too ru, im suprised at whats still left on the moor, like below brutal arete, there is a couple of boulders iv brushed and  also to the left of b.a. there is something iv uncovered, how good it will be remains to be seen

just a little about myself as im sure some of you might wonder where iv suddenly sprung up from... iv been away from climbing  for years, iv climbed maybe 3/4 times a year on and off since 2001 mainly due to raising kids, my last problems were brads wall and a couple of visits to sitw in 2001, i brushed and did a couple of problems there, the first ones you arrive at...the leaning wall with slot and arete to its right.

i discovered the slabs by accident walking my dog, i approached the moor from the north one day (not the usual way i go) and noticed a lone boulder with a date carved on it 1825, it sparked a subconscious hunt for more, id not done this for years!, i started to periodically look to my left for more boulders knowing really that there weren't any but i still kept looking...i stopped at an opening in the trees a bit further along the path and noticed the top of a gritstone edge (sunrise slabs) since finding them i got really eager to look for more and soon after i came upon a totally undiscovered collection of boulders..i called them the secret boulders...whilst in this mode i went looking at ones like my left foot boulder and soon after i created a super ss arete problem, same story for demon wall, i went with an open mind.

[uptown]

Demon Wall also looks very good, and in such an obvious spot I'm suprised no-one noticed it before, including me.

Demon wall is the Lillemans, which we did a long, long time ago - with Bogz, Iain, Jonboy et al if I remember correctly. I can check diaries for exacts. The FA gives you a clue to the attributes necessary for quick success. Great problem. Sorry.

[brad]

fair play..but i could say the same about quite a number of problems that others claimed as theirs, like you..i have them in the old diary too somewhere, what do you do in a situation like that?

[Krank]

there can be only 1

[uptown]

I think we're banging the same drums here Brad. Quality problems, local venues, respect and enjoy. I can't believe we never bumped into each other 'back then' - I developed Eagle tor with Dave Carson, and was a regular at Harthill tor, Rowtor, Cratcliffe, RHS, Stanton etc before the PBG. Maybe we'll meet up next time I'm down, you can show me some of your new stuff.

[brad]

heh...dave carson, now thats a name i havent heard of in a while, yes...eagle tor was somewhere that i used to boulder at rather than look for new problems until i started to get short on bouldering work i knew about the developments at et at that time but left it well alone as far as new problems went
i always bouldered on my own with no mats (there wernt any) and poor shoes but major determination and happy to wear fingers to the bone, some of my 7a+ were 7b+ for effort, prolly harder in the conditions i used to try them in.. try it nowadays bouldering without mats on say big al. at rhs, its E6 or brads rib, it changes things to 7B
rowtor was a big acheivement for me.. brushing all that up must have wore 4 wire brushes out (and it wore me out)
im sure you have seen pink floyd the pulse tour and shine on you crazy diamond vid..where the young boy walks through the door and into a new world, he starts sommersaulting along the path with excitement at a new world hes just discovered.
great days of wonder, the bouldering guides were ozric tentacles style ish which suited the mythical magical locations in my local areas, like rowtor, eagle tor, rhs and stanton, not that the guides covered stanton or rowtor,  i didnt think bouldering would have got so popular over the years to come..

are you local to the area btw? i noticed you said "local venues"

[uptown]

heh...dave carson, now thats a name i havent heard of in a while.
are you local to the area btw? i noticed you said "local venues"

I've not seen or heard from Dave for a long time. 
They used to be local, now I live 'uptown' but my parents are out near carsington so I like to play when I go visit.
I have an original Eagle tor topo of Daves - I shall scan and put up at some point.
I know what you mean re: mats, I originally did Brads arete above a church pew cushion, and it felt 7b+.

[Jim]

we did this arete today, absolutely brilliant problem but no way in a million years any where close to 7b, probably 6c+ maybe soft 7a. Probably the best new thing I've done for a long long time, really good

Johnny haircut did this arete (I couldn't touch it) after quite a few goes (If this is the one just to the left of the one above), maybe we were missing a trick (or a jug?) but it felt hideous and I recon it was probably about 7b+

[brad]

im delighted you went and  enjoyed the arete, great stuff, its prolly more like classic 7A then, dont forget, iv not done anything like this in years and im not properly firing on all cylinders yet so grades maybe hit and miss on some like high ones where falling is an issue on your own.
im glad you enjoyed it anyway.

[Jim]

Yes it was excellent. I recon if you're climbing around the 7a grade and you wanted something really good to get your teeth stuck into, then this is probably one of the best problems to go at in the peak.
Any beta on the bottom arete? just seemed really hard, maybe we were missing something.
johnny also did this at sunrise slabs (have to wait for a bit to finish converting), not sure if its been done, slightly eliminate

didn't make it to demon wall as we had to get to the pub 
can't believe this stuff hasn't been found before, it was so close to the path

[brad]

 it is slightly eliminate, there is 3 ways to do it, use the crimp out right, undercut the break with left or right hand and the way you did it, they are all good ways good effort tho 

it did take some digging out, iv got the footage of when i first found them and what state it was all in
u mean the arete to the left of the new classic one where there is a boulder behind to land on?

[Jim]

yes the one with the picture above were you are wearing a white vest (good clothing choice)

[brad]

i got my left heel on a good feature and went straight for the top, then from the top hold exited out right on better holds, its a lovely finish
good clothing choice..  i was freezing lol
did you like the area? did you try anything else there and overlook arete?

[Jim]

did the top on its own which was really good, it was the bottom bit I couldn't do and Johnny had trouble with.
The only other things we did were the wall to the right of this (secret places) (I found it a little tricky having only the span of a normal man) and both sides of the blunt arete right of 'the presence of absence', all of which were good

[brad]

did the top on its own which was really good, it was the bottom bit I couldn't do and Johnny had trouble with.
The only other things we did were the wall to the right of this (secret places) (I found it a little tricky having only the span of a normal man) and both sides of the blunt arete right of 'the presence of absence', all of which were good

you start (overlook) with left heel in the break (make a hard heel pull) then go up with left hand etc..its all sustained at the same level,  i giggled to myself when i got the top hold
that problem right of sp is good, the curving flake, it finishes on same holds as sp, another good one
heres one i would like grade help on...the mantle of the nose right of brads wall, i thought solid 7A, will go up again and try it out?

[Johnny Brown]

you start (overlook) with left heel in the break (make a hard heel pull) then go up with left hand etc..its all sustained at the same level,  i giggled to myself when i got the top hold

I think its where your right hand is to start that determines how hard this problem is. Good bunch of problems here, did you try the wall with the undercuts right of the presence of absence?

[brad]

yes i tryed it in febuary but like another problem up there i need some better shoes for it, not been on it since (undercuts)

there is only one place where your right hand can go as far as natural goes to start it,  dont  make it more difficult than it already is 
there might be a line between the 2 problems

oh, who did the presence of absence arete first the other day?

anyone tryed this problem ?  http://www.flickr.com/photos/49422833@N05/4533656175/#in/pool-ukbouldering

[Jim]

johnny did presence first.
Just got word from worm that secret places is about 6cish something and not very hard like I thought, sequence donkeys that we are.

[brad]

johnny did presence first.
Just got word from worm that secret places is about 6cish something and not very hard like I thought, sequence donkeys that we are.

grats johnny, second ascent!

[old cheese]

me and arnold wormanegger flashed the presence arete today and i agree, it is a great problem and good find. Only sorry that it didnt take longer to do
We both tried the direct into the undercuts right.  getting high into them was tough and painful. we managed to get our left hand on the sloper but
building up beyond that felt like the living end today. looks like it should go tho but it is a monster reach