[Bradders]

He flashed The Ace today and did Careless Torque 4/5th go absolutely amazing to watch

Wonderful stuff. First 8B flash on grit?

I had a look through the climbing-history.org database and there's no others I can find.

Paul Robinson maybe?

[remus]

He flashed The Ace today and did Careless Torque 4/5th go absolutely amazing to watch

Wonderful stuff. First 8B flash on grit?

I had a look through the climbing-history.org database and there's no others I can find.

Paul Robinson maybe?

He was close on the ace but dropped the last move https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/01/paul_robinson_on_peak_gritstone-59799

[chriss]

He flashed The Ace today and did Careless Torque 4/5th go absolutely amazing to watch

Wonderful stuff. First 8B flash on grit?

I had a look through the climbing-history.org database and there's no others I can find.

Paul Robinson maybe?

Nah he's only just finished on Neighbours...... I'll get me coat.....

Has Magnus Mibot done anything, thought I saw him in an insta tag?

[SamT]

 I definitely picked up a hint somewhere that it was a bit of a history sightseeing type trip for ondra. Hence stoney. Hence looking at Hubble etc.

[remus]

Disgustingly hard limestone link ups.

[jakaitch]

Interesting that he reckons it's significantly harder than the other 9b+s he's climbed, but is still 9b+

[User deactivated.]

Interesting that he reckons it's significantly harder than the other 9b+s he's climbed, but is still 9b+

Potential grade compression due to Silence actually being 9c+? It seemed like Excalibur was going to be 9c, but how could Stefano have given it that grade after recently trying Silence?

[jakaitch]

Yeah, that would make sense!
Grades aside - crazy moves, Ondra grunts = good entertainment

[Duncan campbell]

Interesting that he reckons it's significantly harder than the other 9b+s he's climbed, but is still 9b+

Potential grade compression due to Silence actually being 9c+? It seemed like Excalibur was going to be 9c, but how could Stefano have given it that grade after recently trying Silence?

I dunno, hasn’t he been trying it for way longer? Plus the almighty Ondrawad has said he’ll never climb it! 

Really want to see Ondra go and try DNA and Bibliography. Be interesting to see his thoughts on them, especially DNA.

That new thing does look tricky! I put it into Darth Grader and they both agree - hard 9b+. That’s assuming it is a good rest, which Ondra alludes to.

Also it looks quite long and quite good; I thought it was going to be another Vasil Vasil scene.

[remus]

Also it looks quite long and quite good; I thought it was going to be another Vasil Vasil scene.

Let's not get too ahead of ourselves here there are 5 lines on the topo trying to describe where it goes! It does look like cool climbing but it's not exactly an amazing line.

[Duncan campbell]

Haha true… not a king line, but not as scrappy as Vasil or Brandenburg gate!

But maybe even quite good is stretching it a little!

[yetix]

Probs been discussed before, but has ondra repeated many 9b+s other than his own? Just curious as my routes knowledge is sparce! (I checked his website and it seemed that they're all FAs). And my partner asked me the other day and I didn't know the answer.

[Kingy]

I don't think so. He came close on Perfecto Mundo a couple of years ago but no cigar. That's the only one he's seriously tried AFAIK. Recently rewatched the Ondra videos of him trying it which were a good insight into his process

[remus]

Probs been discussed before, but has ondra repeated many 9b+s other than his own? Just curious as my routes knowledge is sparce! (I checked his website and it seemed that they're all FAs). And my partner asked me the other day and I didn't know the answer.

No, but his 9b+s have received several repeats, most notably change.

https://climbing-history.org/climber/467/adam-ondra

[Bradders]

Probably more a factor of scarcity than anything else. There weren't any before he came along! If Sharma had managed La Dura Dura earlier then Ondra's ascent would have been a repeat, for instance.

It wouldn't surprise me if he's saving trying some established ones for future flash attempts....

He's also repeated plenty of 9bs.

[Ged]

There must also be an element of being less motivated for cutting edge stuff when it's a repeat rather than a new route

[yetix]

Thanks for clarification! I just didn't know to be honest. Appreciate the info

[MischaHY]

There must also be an element of being less motivated for cutting edge stuff when it's a repeat rather than a new route

I think it's also worth considering personal style this close to the cutting edge. Some good words on this recently from Aidan Roberts on his podcast where he's ruminating about how pro climbers operating at the top end are almost always very specialized. One thing Ondra did when he did the massive series on perfecto mundo is break the unwritten rule of pro climbers only talking about stuff that they've been successful on. That attitude coupled with a good ability to identify and concentrate on style appropriate projects is something I've noticed from a lot of pro climbers. It's actually really easy to watch them punt on something relatively straightforward as long as it is far enough removed from their current specialisation.

Ondra and colleagues are currently leading the charge on the 9b+/9c grades which means that each one will be very specialised in the style of the first ascentionist. It'll take some time for enough people to push the boundary in this level for someone with a similar style to Ondra to come along and put up 1-2 routes that suit him. If I had to put money on Ondra repeating a route from another climber right now it would be one of the lines from Seb Bouin because the long endurance style seems to be something they share although Seb is noticeably more comfortable in burly terrain. There's enough crossover there that there's good potential for Ondra.

I get the impression Ondra primarily tries other routes when he wants to benchmark himself and his FA's against other routes of a similar difficulty.

[Ru]

If you look at the list of 9b+s that aren't Ondra FAs, then remove the ones done in the last 10 months or so there's only Perfecto Mundo (which he's tried), Bibliographie and one of Seb Bouin's left and the latter two were both done in the latter half of 2020 when he would have been focussed on the Olympics.

[Ged]

There must also be an element of being less motivated for cutting edge stuff when it's a repeat rather than a new route

I think it's also worth considering personal style this close to the cutting edge. Some good words on this recently from Aidan Roberts on his podcast where he's ruminating about how pro climbers operating at the top end are almost always very specialized. One thing Ondra did when he did the massive series on perfecto mundo is break the unwritten rule of pro climbers only talking about stuff that they've been successful on. That attitude coupled with a good ability to identify and concentrate on style appropriate projects is something I've noticed from a lot of pro climbers. It's actually really easy to watch them punt on something relatively straightforward as long as it is far enough removed from their current specialisation.

Ondra and colleagues are currently leading the charge on the 9b+/9c grades which means that each one will be very specialised in the style of the first ascentionist. It'll take some time for enough people to push the boundary in this level for someone with a similar style to Ondra to come along and put up 1-2 routes that suit him. If I had to put money on Ondra repeating a route from another climber right now it would be one of the lines from Seb Bouin because the long endurance style seems to be something they share although Seb is noticeably more comfortable in burly terrain. There's enough crossover there that there's good potential for Ondra.

I get the impression Ondra primarily tries other routes when he wants to benchmark himself and his FA's against other routes of a similar difficulty.

This new one looks pretty different in style to silence though doesn't it?

[MischaHY]

There must also be an element of being less motivated for cutting edge stuff when it's a repeat rather than a new route

I think it's also worth considering personal style this close to the cutting edge. Some good words on this recently from Aidan Roberts on his podcast where he's ruminating about how pro climbers operating at the top end are almost always very specialized. One thing Ondra did when he did the massive series on perfecto mundo is break the unwritten rule of pro climbers only talking about stuff that they've been successful on. That attitude coupled with a good ability to identify and concentrate on style appropriate projects is something I've noticed from a lot of pro climbers. It's actually really easy to watch them punt on something relatively straightforward as long as it is far enough removed from their current specialisation.

Ondra and colleagues are currently leading the charge on the 9b+/9c grades which means that each one will be very specialised in the style of the first ascentionist. It'll take some time for enough people to push the boundary in this level for someone with a similar style to Ondra to come along and put up 1-2 routes that suit him. If I had to put money on Ondra repeating a route from another climber right now it would be one of the lines from Seb Bouin because the long endurance style seems to be something they share although Seb is noticeably more comfortable in burly terrain. There's enough crossover there that there's good potential for Ondra.

I get the impression Ondra primarily tries other routes when he wants to benchmark himself and his FA's against other routes of a similar difficulty.

This new one looks pretty different in style to silence though doesn't it?

Well yes but that doesn't rule it out from being his style :-)

[Ged]

But if you've done cutting edge routes in many different styles (crimpy, short, long, upside down crack nonsense), then doesn't that mean you don't really have a style and you're good at all if it.

[Aussiegav]

I don't think so. He came close on Perfecto Mundo a couple of years ago but no cigar. That's the only one he's seriously tried AFAIK. Recently rewatched the Ondra videos of him trying it which were a good insight into his process

I wonder if the extra crew & pressures of getting this route done for the film had an influence on the outcome? His media content  has changed since then. More personal and relaxed imo.
I wonder if he’ll go back and try it again with less people & without the circus??

[Kingy]

Interesting to speculate, my take is that he got shafted by the connies. dont think hes bothered by the film crew, part of being a pro. i reckon he'll be back at some point but project big may be his priority at the mo

[remus]