[jwi]

I know I should be sneering less, but if you have absolutely nothing better to do, go to ukclimbing or reddit for hilarious discussions if Ondra is a safe belayer or not (following the recent video).

[IanP]

I know I should be sneering less, but if you have absolutely nothing better to do, go to ukclimbing or reddit for hilarious discussions if Ondra is a safe belayer or not (following the recent video).

I couldn't quite bring myself to post on this but you're not wrong, peak UKC  .

[jwi]

I know I should be sneering less, but if you have absolutely nothing better to do, go to ukclimbing or reddit for hilarious discussions if Ondra is a safe belayer or not (following the recent video).

I couldn't quite bring myself to post on this [...]

You Sir are a noble man.

[moose]

I'm surprised that there hasn't been more of a shit-show of vituperative, unwinnable arguments about Ondra and Magnus' agreement that the perfect height for a climber is 170cm (5'7"ish) but with a big positive ape index.

[cheque]

Ondra and Magnus' agreement that the perfect height for a climber is 170cm (5'7"ish) but with a big positive ape index.

Christ that’s me  . Pretty sure when I was 5’10” with a medium positive ape index that was considered the perfect height… it felt a lot more like it!

I think the grass is always greener with height- no climber (seemingly even the best) is going to say “I am the perfect height” in the same way it’s hard to say “that person may be lighter than me and have smaller fingers but it’s their skill, technique and understanding of rock climbing that’s the real reason they climb grades harder” 

[ali k]

I'm surprised that there hasn't been more of a shit-show of vituperative, unwinnable arguments about Ondra and Magnus' agreement that the perfect height for a climber is 170cm (5'7"ish) but with a big positive ape index.

I’m always impressed at your vocabulary Moose - had to look this one up.

[jwi]

I'm surprised that there hasn't been more of a shit-show of vituperative, unwinnable arguments about Ondra and Magnus' agreement that the perfect height for a climber is 170cm (5'7"ish) but with a big positive ape index.

That's pretty much Magnus they are describing.

[Will Hunt]

I'm surprised that there hasn't been more of a shit-show of vituperative, unwinnable arguments about Ondra and Magnus' agreement that the perfect height for a climber is 170cm (5'7"ish) but with a big positive ape index.

Naturally my ears pricked at this, but I don't think that's quite what they were saying? I can understand why being a little shorter than average is advantageous for hard stuff, but they implied that one's ape index shouldn't be too big. Ondra said he was lucky his wasn't bigger. I suppose the theory is that there's only so much reach one needs and adding even a little extra arm mass beyond this is a disadvantage?

[andy moles]

I know I should be sneering less, but if you have absolutely nothing better to do, go to ukclimbing or reddit for hilarious discussions if Ondra is a safe belayer or not (following the recent video).

I couldn't quite bring myself to post on this but you're not wrong, peak UKC  .

Harrowing.

[RobK]

I suppose the theory is that there's only so much reach one needs and adding even a little extra arm mass beyond this is a disadvantage?

Maybe less to do with the extra mass and more that shorter levers are stronger?

[Bradders]

I suppose the theory is that there's only so much reach one needs and adding even a little extra arm mass beyond this is a disadvantage?

Maybe less to do with the extra mass and more that shorter levers are stronger?

As the owner of a very long pair of arms, I can attest to this. Long levers are often a massive hindrance, contrary to popular belief (although to be fair, they do help on some things so it's swings and roundabouts to a certain extent).

[IanP]

I suppose the theory is that there's only so much reach one needs and adding even a little extra arm mass beyond this is a disadvantage?

Maybe less to do with the extra mass and more that shorter levers are stronger?

As the owner of a very long pair of arms, I can attest to this. Long levers are often a massive hindrance, contrary to popular belief (although to be fair, they do help on some things so it's swings and roundabouts to a certain extent).

Not wanting to stifle discussions (why being tall is not an advantage for climbing is a favourite topic of mine  ) but discussions on body type for climbing might be better on a separate thread?

[colin8ll]

I agree that this is an interesting dicussion that deserves its own thread.

I think the ideal body dimensions will really matter in the comp scene where setters have to set for an imaginary climber who will necessarily have specific dimensions. It's easy to imagine that some comp problems will simply be impossible for those at an extreme height-wise. It's probably less important in the world of real rock where there's enough routes to go at that people should be able to pick one where the crux plays to their strengths. The taller the better for a route like es pontas perhaps, whilst 5ft 2 seemed to work well for Lynn Hill on the Nose.

[Mullett24k]

Now begins the age of baby Ondra: 

https://www.instagram.com/p/CXwKMQkMQSW/

[andy popp]

Cue more heinous 9b eliminates on strictly-locals-only crags around Brno.

[Fiend]

 

[SA Chris]

Baby Ondra vs Baby Honnold climb off.

[teestub]

Baby Ondra vs Baby Honnold climb off.

Potentially a new challenger on the horizon soon, maybe the Kwisatz Haderach https://www.instagram.com/p/CX5mhdvvUeo/?utm_medium=copy_link

[Wellsy]

And the Lisan al-Gaib shall walk upon you, and he will know you ways as if born to them...

[Will Hunt]

Neeeeeeeerds 

(I'm reading it at the moment. Blessed is the maker etc)

[finbarrr]

Baby Ondra vs Baby Honnold climb off.

Potentially a new challenger on the horizon soon, maybe the Kwisatz Haderach https://www.instagram.com/p/CX5mhdvvUeo/?utm_medium=copy_link

Don’t forget about Shau-Ned-baby..

[Bradders]

Baby David / Mina too.

[Wood FT]

There’s only one way to settle this. Remus… get the spreadsheet.

[remus]

There’s only one way to settle this. Remus… get the spreadsheet.

Pre-emptive entries have already been made on the list.

[andy popp]

Cue more heinous 9b eliminates on strictly-locals-only crags around Brno.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CX9H55-hS7M/