[teestub]

That’s what I thought, he looked totally gassed when got through ‘the move’, I don’t remember thinking that from the other ascents but haven’t been back and watched.

That scene where there’s a tonne of people just standing around watching him be sad it pretty crazy.

[Sasquatch]

I think it's fascinating to compare the videos that Ghisolfi has been putting out about working and sending a 9b+ vs watching the videos Ondra has put out. 

He looks like he’s fighting, not flowing. Interesting to watch. Not sure the excuses are doing him any favours at this point as he just doesn’t look like he’s strong enough on that mono. Even when he makes it through the move he’s knackered!

   

It's amazing to me how poor he climbs up to the crux on a few of the goes.  It's as though the moves are "so easy" he's trying to go faster, but ending up doing it so inefficiently. Very strange.   

[Will Hunt]

It's all a ruse. He's just hamming up being shit to have his opponents drop their guard prior to the Olympics. He's going to thrash and they'll be wondering how he made such a comeback. Cheeky Ondra.

[Danny]

It's been interesting to see him fail here. Perfecto seems to be a straight fight with few opportunities for tricks. Ondra is so good at so many aspects of rock climbing it's somehow strange to realise that he's probably not the best in this specific style, even though he was quite open about his weaknesses at the beginning of this series. Good to see really.

[MischaHY]

It's been interesting to see him fail here. Perfecto seems to be a straight fight with few opportunities for tricks. Ondra is so good at so many aspects of rock climbing it's somehow strange to realise that he's probably not the best in this specific style, even though he was quite open about his weaknesses at the beginning of this series. Good to see really.

There was potential foreshadowing on this when he didn't get up that 9a+ on monos (I think in Poland?) even with multiple sessions - not that 9a+ should be easy, but actually yeah for Ondra it should be 'doable' compared to his overall level. In 'Wizards Apprentice' he gets injured on Demencia Senil (IIRC) and bails on the trip - granted a long time ago but maybe it's just simply the weaker side of someone that we're used to seeing smash everything he tries.

Then again he's done a massive amount of 9's in Franken so maybe it's all conjecture!

[tim palmer]

I might be getting the wrong end of the stick here but I don't understand why people seem to be saying his was such a poor effort.  He had 15 days on it, the same as megos did for the first ascent, and he seemed to get pretty close despite it being not to his style and the conditions did seem pretty poor (unless he was fibbing). Maybe it is just that we don't get to see top level climbers try things at their limit and they sure don't go to a route they know doesn't suit them and film it in almost excruciating detail.

I really like the ondra videos, the bits when he digs up the past pioneers are really great. I think his willingness to share and embrace his failures is pretty impressive and maybe in part why he is the best rock climber ever 

[teestub]

I guess we just expect more from Ondra as he sets his own bar so high! Schubert repeated it on a 3 week trip in between qualifying for the Olympics. Ondra has trained specifically for the route and has had how ever many weeks there and only climbed on it on the best days.

[tim palmer]

The thing is there wasn't a whole video series dedicated to anyone else's attempts or ascents. 

Maybe schubert had mint conditions (although schubert must be up there in terms of the best in the world),  maybe megos had terrible conditions and his ascent even more impressive.  Who knows unless you were there?

[bendavison]

...and the conditions did seem pretty poor (unless he was fibbing)...

According to 8a.spew, Ella Adamowska has just done an 8c+ in Margalef and said "even though the conditions are much better than the last winter", which suggests they weren't total shit this year. Having said that, I think the 8c+ was at a different sector (south facing) than Perfecto (north facing), so they'll get different winds and dry at different speeds, and maybe conditions were really poor last year...

Either way, I was disappointed in Ondra in this mini-series - he seemed to get demoralised very quickly and make lots of excuses rather than focus on solutions (perhaps an editorial choice). Also in the scheme of things, 15 sessions on a route one grade below your max and not in your style doesn't seem like a huge investment to me, especially when time isn't a factor (he doesn't have another job to get back to). I was amazed he spat the dummy considering he got through the crux on his last go - I'd have thought that would have got him properly fired up to stay and finish it.

I enjoy watching videos of people struggling and fighting through difficulty, but this didn't hit the mark for me.

It's amazing to me how poor he climbs up to the crux on a few of the goes.  It's as though the moves are "so easy" he's trying to go faster, but ending up doing it so inefficiently. Very strange.   

Agreed, he looks sloppy and imprecise. Also looks like he might have lost weight through the series.

[lagerstarfish]

It's all a ruse. He's just hamming up being shit to have his opponents drop their guard prior to the Olympics. He's going to thrash and they'll be wondering how he made such a comeback. Cheeky Ondra.

This is exactly what I have advised him to do

[HaeMeS]

Maybe schubert had mint conditions (although schubert must be up there in terms of the best in the world),  maybe megos had terrible conditions and his ascent even more impressive.  Who knows unless you were there?

I was there last year and this year. Haven’t been to the sector with PM both times, but got an insight into how conditions at Margalef/Siurana this year have been worse then other years.

Conditions were hot and dry (17 degrees) at first last year when Schubert was on PM but the temperature dropped by more than 10 degrees and it got cold, dry and windy. Perfect conditions for climbing at Salt de La Reina Mora in Siurana or Espadelles in Margalef and way to cold for me to climb at a north facing crag in Margalef. But apparently exactly what Schubert needed to climb PM.

This year we didn’t arrive to the Siurana/Margalef area untill the last week Ondra spent in Margalef. Conditions during the first 2 weeks of our stay at the north facing sectors in Margalef were awful despite the often sunny weather. North facing sectors as well as the undergrowth and paths were very humid or even soaked. Several days of good weather (no rain) with decent to fine conditions on south facing sectors (cracks stayed humid though) made no difference to the north facing valleys and sectors. Everything stayed humid/wet/soaked until 3 days ago when dry, cold and windy conditions finally arrived. Within two days the vegetation and paths were dry and frozen actually. Ça colle maintenant if you can dodge the wind.

Ondra encountered a period with unseasonally humid weather and despite the bad luck did an impressive job almost sending PM.

[remus]

I think it's worth remembering that 9b+ is still fucking hard. It's a grade that's only ever been climbed 8 times (3 of those ascents by our lord and saviour), and Stefano Ghisolfi is the only person other than Ondra who has climbed it more than once.

I know the Ondrawad often spoils us with displays of climbing magic, but I don't think it's that surprising that he can fail on something super hard and not in his style.

[Kingy]

I would give Ondra a break, connies sounded shite for the most part, he wasn't exaggerating by the sound of it. Not a bad effort all things considered, i appreciated all the geeky detail and insight

[jwi]

I pass on the characteristically blunt comment from my better half:  “anyone trying to climb a hard route in Spain in December is an idiot”.

[Fiend]

  Well at least he's not trying anything daft like trying to climb hard on a south-face sheltered suntrap crag in Spain in December....

[Ged]

I pass on the characteristically blunt comment from my better half:  “anyone trying to climb a hard route in Spain in December is an idiot”.

Excuse my ignorance, but whys that then? I would've thought December is prime for cooler weather?

[jwi]

Much of Spain north of Valencia is often plagued by condensation in December. Short days as well, with lots of crags having dew until midday and then getting more dew at around 4-5 o'clock. And most sectors north of Lleida are plagued by the infamous Lleida fog. January is better and February is much better. Just as cold and much dryer. December is for climbing in the sun.

[Adam Lincoln]

Much of Spain north of Valencia is often plagued by condensation in December. Short days as well, with lots of crags having dew until midday and then getting more dew at around 4-5 o'clock. And most sectors north of Lleida are plagued by the infamous Lleida fog. January is better and February is much better. Just as cold and much dryer. December is for climbing in the sun.

Hmmm not in my experience. Sorry but thats just not the case.

Though i agree the fog around Tremp can be a problem.

[jwi]

mmm.... my better half lived in Barcelona for 6 years, since then we have been in the area quite often... YMMV

[Adam Lincoln]

mmm.... my better half lived in Barcelona for 6 years, since then we have been in the area quite often... YMMV

I was there for 6 months this winter. Chasing shade.

[turnipturned]

mmm.... my better half lived in Barcelona for 6 years, since then we have been in the area quite often... YMMV

I was there for 6 months this winter. Chasing shade.

You chasing shade, now that is bullshit 

[Adam Lincoln]

mmm.... my better half lived in Barcelona for 6 years, since then we have been in the area quite often... YMMV

I was there for 6 months this winter. Chasing shade.

You chasing shade, now that is bullshit 

Good point well made

[Andy F]

mmm.... my better half lived in Barcelona for 6 years, since then we have been in the area quite often... YMMV

I was there for 6 months this winter. Chasing shade.

You chasing shade, now that is bullshit 

Good point well made

There are salons for that nowadays

[Nibile]

Chris, Adam, Alex, they all say hi.

[batashakrakoom]

That area of margalef can be a real swamp, its sat within the valley, burried amongst the trees, it can feel like a sauna sometimes over there compared to say espadelles which is high up and overlooks everything, so yeah, can probably cut him a bit of slack on this one.  He should have given up and come to try Bon Combat, reckon he'd piss it. 

I live in BCN, weather wise its been warm / wet / warm / wet, was good in october then again in late december but Ondra left already.

When he arrived here there were covid restrictions - but legally he was ok  (as per my understanding), though perhaps a 10 man film crew, non of which were wearing masks - which is the law here - wasn't necessary nor a great look..

That said, whilst he is taking some heat for that - after he left the rules then became very strict,  people here can't travel between comarcas, so even if you live an hour away from Margalef - you can't go there now, some pros don't give a shit and have travelled here regardless including Megos who is seemingly trying to keep it hush hush, which hasn't gone unnoticed.