[Duncan campbell]

Brilliant! Often find that sort of thing a bit dull, but Ondra’s commentary is a perfect blend of chat about the route, what’s going through his mind and general chat around the subject of hard onsighting.

Interesting he says he doesn’t think he has enough power in the tank to onsight 8c+ conservatively. Considering he has now redpointed 9c, flashed 9a+, onsighted 9a, bouldered 8C+? Flashed 8B+? Would have thought that would give him a bit more of a margin for error. Guess it just goes to show how hard onsighting becomes in the upper echelons!

[jwi]

Brilliant! Often find that sort of thing a bit dull, but Ondra’s commentary is a perfect blend of chat about the route, what’s going through his mind and general chat around the subject of hard onsighting.

Interesting he says he doesn’t think he has enough power in the tank to onsight 8c+ conservatively. Considering he has now redpointed 9c, flashed 9a+, onsighted 9a, bouldered 8C+? Flashed 8B+? Would have thought that would give him a bit more of a margin for error. Guess it just goes to show how hard onsighting becomes in the upper echelons!

Au contraire, I think it is totally normal. I would not expect anyone to be able to onsight conservatively just one half grade under their max o/s level, and just one number below their absolute rp max. E.g. I would expect a well rounded climber who barely onsight 8a, and having redpointed a single 8b+/c to cruise juggy stamina 7cs with enormous margin, but on 7c+s with some hard moves thrown in success would be far from assured.

[remus]

Watch the man himself struggle on an 8a like the rest of us.

https://fanatic-climbing.com/video-adam-ondra-belly-full-of-bad-berries-offwidth

[petejh]

Brilliant to see Ondra fighting on a hideous offwidth, refreshing.

I remember when I lived in Canada sometime around 2006 or 07 hearing that Dingdong onsighted or flashed this, anyone know?

[ferret]

Thinking of Pete Whitaker perhaps? I thought his was the first flat/onsite

[petejh]

No it was way before then, would have been '06 or 07. Just remember one of my Canadian housemates had heard about it and was amazed at this unknown brit wad haha.

[teestub]

Good video explainer for the Olympics format including scoring. There’s going to be a new training vid each week.

[remus]

9as, 9a+ FAs, 8c multipitch onsights. Same old really.

[Wood FT]

Cool, the project looks very good indeed.

[UnkArl]

Even a bit of disco/Elvis leg!!

[andy popp]

Even a bit of disco/Elvis leg!!

There's little more satisfying than the sight of a wad having a wobbler.

[bigironhorse]

Gonna get me some Ondra patented deep water speedos!

[Nibile]

I would like to know how much he bulked up over the last years. Massive arms, shoulders and even legs.
It didn't do him much harm, did it.

[cheque]

9as, 9a+ FAs, 8c multipitch onsights. Same old really.

That film surely breaks records for the number of shots where there’s another cameraman or photographer in the frame- it’s like a climbing film and “making of” documentary combined.

I enjoyed it though. Great to see climbing in countries where you think “can you climb there? Is there even rock there?” (the answers usually seem to be “yes” and “more limestone than you could ever imagine”) as well as Ondra trying hard and being a beast. His bunny-hop method of climbing tufas makes it look so easy!

[James Malloch]

What climbing is all about...

[jwi]

Interesting that he thinks no one on the world cup can beat Martin Stráník

[teestub]

Yeah, I would have thought Jan might be in with a shout? He did a good job of getting his own excuses in early on in the video too!

[andy popp]

Not a bad day ...

https://www.instagram.com/p/B3ESfK6Jh4m/

[galpinos]

I enjoyed watching Stefan Fürst belay him on Qui. What does Stefan Fürst do now? Still climbing?

[Muenchener]

Five minutes' googling the Austrosphere suggests he builds climbing walls for a living.

[galpinos]

Five minutes' googling the Austrosphere suggests he builds climbing walls for a living.

Cheers. His hat game is strong too.

[bigironhorse]

Not a bad day ...

https://www.instagram.com/p/B3ESfK6Jh4m/

I am moving about an hour away from there in a few weeks, looks to be some great climbing in the area!

[Nibile]

The bar is set a bit high now, mind...

[SA Chris]

Not a bad day ...

https://www.instagram.com/p/B3ESfK6Jh4m/

I am moving about an hour away from there in a few weeks, looks to be some great climbing in the area!

His ticklist there should fill a morning for you then..

[fatneck]

Not sure if these appeared anywhere else but these are a fascinating insight into the mind and sheer determination of the beast. The visualisation stuff is insane and I love it that he totally doesn't care what anyone else thinks... (skip 0.45 seconds to 1:58 to avoid the sender/reel rock bollocks)

Part 2


Part 3