[highrepute]

belly full of bad berries second go

[Will Hunt]

No layback. Shit twat.

[Coops_13]

belly full of bad berries second go

Well at least this confirms one thing, he's an avid reader of UKB! What else shall we get him do?

[Doylo]

belly full of bad berries second go

Well at least this confirms one thing, he's an avid reader of UKB! What else shall we get him do?

3some with the WideBoyz.

[Nibile]

Downclimb the Salathe?

[petejh]

Come to Wales for Liquid Ambar and Big Bang. Obvs.

[jwi]

Nice video from the Salathe headwall

[grimer]

That's great.

[Will Hunt]

That headwall! What a place! Am I right in thinking that when they say they're going to do the Salathe route, they actually mean Freerider, which is the free version of the Salathe? Or does Freerider avoid the headwall pitch? I don't remember seeing 8a+ mooted for Freerider.

[El Mocho]

That headwall! What a place! Am I right in thinking that when they say they're going to do the Salathe route, they actually mean Freerider, which is the free version of the Salathe? Or does Freerider avoid the headwall pitch? I don't remember seeing 8a+ mooted for Freerider.

Salathe (free and aid version) and Freerider are different.

Freerider follows Salathe as far as the pitch just below El Cap spire, it then does a variation to the left (Monster offwidth) which misses out a 5.13 (+?) crack pitch. It rejoins Salathe just above and follows it until the roof pitch below the headwall (so including the 5.12 corner you see Ondra on) at this point it travs. left 1 pitch (wild) before following 3 or 4 pitches up cracks on the very left edge of the headwall (really wild) and finishes up the last pitch or so of Salathe. Most of these variation pitches are on Excalibur and were prob first free climbed by Shipoopi although it was Alex Huber who first free climbed all the actual new pitches including the link traverses - he did these pitches in isolation, rope solo, whilst working Salathe free. Huber is credited with the first free ascent although it may have been Heinz Zak and Peter Jansek who first climbed the whole thing in a push (1998?). A few weeks later that season the Hubers climbed it free in a day (and overtook me and Patch who managed a near free shambles ascent of it) Freerider used to get 5.12d but a hold has come off the boulder problem pitch and I think it is now 13a.

When Todd and Paul 1st did Salathe they climbed the direct finger crack (the one below El Cap spire, Paul lead it I think) and rather than doing the boulder problem pitch (which is only just to the right of the aid line) they climbed the Teflon corner which is a bit to the left of the aid line. They then free climbed the headwall pitches (maybe with the odd extra belay??). They stuck pretty much to the original aid line - Teflon corner prob being the biggest variation and maybe a bit dif on the trav into hollow flake although with this being a pendulum the exact line would be vague anyhow.

When Huber repeated Salathe he did the same line as PP and TS except he didn't do the Teflon corner but did the boulder problem pitch (prob closer to the original line but had a bolt (or 2?) added)

It seems to be accepted that you can climb either the boulder prob pitch or the Teflon corner on both Freerider or Salathe, on freerider you def climb the Monster offwidth, on Salathe I would have thought you would have to climb Pauls finger crack pitch below the spire but I get the impression people do the Monster but I could be completely wrong about that.

[UnkArl]

What El Mocho said 

[mde]

But I guess Ondra climbed the Monster Offwidth rather than the 13+ crack below the spire?!? Does anyone know for sure?

[Fiend]

What a legend even trying that. My Ondra-crush, which dipped briefly after his skin maintenance video, is fully gushing again. "It's one hundred million fucking degrees!!".....man I can identify with that so much....

[Clart]

Good vid, he's obviously psyched for it but I do wonder if the screams are to make it sound like he's trying hard, looked quite comfy on it but could just be one of those routes where it looks smooth or you're off. Awesome effort either way.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Yes, great little vid.

I thought that looked hard, and Adam looked like someone who knows how to recruit everything when it's needed.

Full on commitment. Looked like a fantastic effort.

 

[user deactivated]

I wonder what was in the yellow can, and is it available to the general public? Or do you have to go on the dark web

[DAVETHOMAS90]

I wonder what was in the yellow can, and is it available to the general public? Or do you have to go on the dark web

By 'eck. It could be Boddington's, but I expect it's Red Bull Yellow Edition.

Either way, what you need to bottle is the psyche.

I've just watched the vid again, and what's most inspiring is what it means to Ondra.

For me, that's what matters. I find the numbers irrelevant.

I propose a separate forum section. We need a Psyche Library!
 

Mods?

[user deactivated]

Christ tropical flavour red bull!!! 

[user deactivated]

I’d be in favour of an anti psyche library full of whining, sarcasm, down beat lo fi grainy vids of minus ten, and general sneering at all things motivational

[Wood FT]

I wonder what was in the yellow can, and is it available to the general public? Or do you have to go on the dark web

I've just watched the vid again, and what's most inspiring is what it means to Ondra.

For me, that's what matters. I find the numbers irrelevant.

+1, he’s one of us just at a much higher level

I’m fact my favourite videos are ones where it really gets to them at the belay. Ethan Pringle on Reina Mora is another one that comes to mind

[highrepute]

It's gets better

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Yes, that's superb.

Thank you.

Always difficult to incite the old baldry climbers 

[shark]

Great running commentary

[remus]

I’m fact my favourite videos are ones where it really gets to them at the belay. Ethan Pringle on Reina Mora is another one that comes to mind

Ben Cossey on Groove Train is another classic of the genre.

[Wood FT]

I’m fact my favourite videos are ones where it really gets to them at the belay. Ethan Pringle on Reina Mora is another one that comes to mind

Ben Cossey on Groove Train is another classic of the genre.

I’m the fucking best