UKBouldering.com

Ondrawad (Read 1015207 times)

HaeMeS

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 170
  • Karma: +13/-0
#1775 Re: Ondrawad
February 14, 2018, 06:15:24 pm
How does Ondra sustain this output? Just incredible.

Good question. His mental strength and focus is what sets him apart. As a six year old he decided to become the best and he has done so in a mind-boggling way. No downs all these years, only upps. He’s smart, has studied, speaks 6 languages. Did all the significant routes, repeated almost everything hard. Also won everyting, then went on to put up all the hard stuff; boulder, sport and multi-pitch. 20 years of nonstop stoke and focus. And no injuries.

There’s got to be an identical twin, or a bunch of clones.  :-\

Might be interesting to have his brain checked like they did with Alex Honnold. And his tendons/shoulders. Mutant.  :bow:

cheque

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3469
  • Karma: +530/-2
    • Cheque Pictures
#1776 Re: Ondrawad
February 14, 2018, 06:47:03 pm
As a six year old he decided to become the best and he has done so in a mind-boggling way.

I've never felt more ashamed to not be a spaceman.

Danny

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 863
  • Karma: +43/-3
#1777 Re: Ondrawad
February 14, 2018, 10:33:28 pm
He's so consistently good that I think I have what I'll call Ondrawad Fatigue Syndrome. I mean flashing 9a+ is really, really mind boggling. But because it's Ondra I don't think the significance quite sinks in. For me anyway. 9b FA a few days later? Meh.

user deactivated

  • Guest
#1778 Re: Ondrawad
February 15, 2018, 07:23:38 am
Haha, yes it's like hearing god's just performed a miracle, if you believe in god that is.

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20328
  • Karma: +649/-11
#1779 Re: Ondrawad
February 15, 2018, 08:35:30 am
As a six year old he decided to become the best and he has done so in a mind-boggling way.

I've never felt more ashamed to not be a spaceman.

You may not (yet) be an astronaut but your films are pretty darned good!

andy popp

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5723
  • Karma: +362/-5
#1780 Re: Ondrawad
February 16, 2018, 04:55:30 pm
Here's the 9b FA. The hard bit looks pretty short.


gme

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1847
  • Karma: +148/-6
#1781 Re: Ondrawad
February 20, 2018, 11:40:24 am
Not a bad day to finish off a trip.

Back home from France, the last day in St Leger was just pure fun.

- Panique au poulailler 8a onsight
- Ousama 8b+ failed onsight in the last meter
- La Hyene 8b+ onsight
- Les Abdominables 8b 2nd go (slipped from wet pocket on my onsight try)
- Les Intermutans du Spectacle 8b+ onsight
- Chipolatas et Jacuzzi 8b+ onsight
- Diagonal du Duboc 8b/b+ 1st go (shares the finish with previous one, so no onsight)
- Foetus trou du cus 8b/b+ onsight

galpinos

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2185
  • Karma: +88/-1
#1782 Re: Ondrawad
February 20, 2018, 12:19:18 pm
Not a bad day to finish off a trip.

Back home from France, the last day in St Leger was just pure fun.

- Panique au poulailler 8a onsight
- Ousama 8b+ failed onsight in the last meter
- La Hyene 8b+ onsight
- Les Abdominables 8b 2nd go (slipped from wet pocket on my onsight try)
- Les Intermutans du Spectacle 8b+ onsight
- Chipolatas et Jacuzzi 8b+ onsight
- Diagonal du Duboc 8b/b+ 1st go (shares the finish with previous one, so no onsight)
- Foetus trou du cus 8b/b+ onsight

I thought I was looking at Power Club for a minute and was thinking, "Wow, gme is going well at the mo....."

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#1783 Re: Ondrawad
February 20, 2018, 12:34:43 pm
Mileage day on 8bs and 8b+s.  :thumbsup:
I used to do that on 7a/+s .  :punk:

teestub

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2796
  • Karma: +178/-4
  • Cyber Wanker
#1784 Re: Ondrawad
February 20, 2018, 01:11:38 pm
Chipolatas et Jacuzzi is an awesome route name.

remus

Online
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3142
  • Karma: +168/-1
#1785 Re: Ondrawad
February 20, 2018, 01:44:28 pm
Good to know he can still fall off things.

Ged

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 935
  • Karma: +40/-1
#1786 Re: Ondrawad
February 20, 2018, 07:57:36 pm
That is just mindblowing.  Basically five 8b+ onsight in a day, plus a couple of second goes.  What??!!

jwi

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4368
  • Karma: +339/-1
  • Distorting facts posted on instagram
    • On Steep Ground
#1787 Re: Ondrawad
February 21, 2018, 07:14:19 pm
TBH, I would expect someone who have done a handful of 8b+ and a bunch of 8bs to be able to onsight six routes in the 7b-7b+ bracket when they have a good day.

gme

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1847
  • Karma: +148/-6
#1788 Re: Ondrawad
February 22, 2018, 11:06:09 am
i Agree but using the same process shows how far ahead Ondra is. 9B no big deal and solid at 9B+. A step above the following pack including Megos.

petejh

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5884
  • Karma: +639/-36
#1789 Re: Ondrawad
February 22, 2018, 11:59:17 am
I'd pay good money to watch a Moonboard death match between Ondra and Megos.

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#1790 Re: Ondrawad
February 22, 2018, 09:16:48 pm
I'd pay good money to watch a Moonboard death match between Ondra and Megos.

Megos would probably win that one.

Simon W

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 182
  • Karma: +4/-0
#1791 Re: Ondrawad
February 23, 2018, 07:50:39 pm
Premiere of Silence on live stream in ten


jwi

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4368
  • Karma: +339/-1
  • Distorting facts posted on instagram
    • On Steep Ground
#1792 Re: Ondrawad
February 23, 2018, 09:06:51 pm
that was nice!

ferret

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 558
  • Karma: +44/-4
#1793 Re: Ondrawad
February 24, 2018, 03:05:46 pm
It would be interesting to see a crack specialists approach to that crux section. He doesn't really use any/many jams, but they do look available.

bigironhorse

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 767
  • Karma: +16/-0
    • YouTube
#1794 Re: Ondrawad
February 24, 2018, 03:52:03 pm
It would be interesting to see a crack specialists approach to that crux section. He doesn't really use any/many jams, but they do look available.

Judging by the amount of analysis of the climbing and preparation suggested in the film I simply can't believe that they didn't consider and try out methods involving more traditional crack climbing methods. Finding weird beta is probably one of his biggest strengths.

jwi

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4368
  • Karma: +339/-1
  • Distorting facts posted on instagram
    • On Steep Ground
#1795 Re: Ondrawad
February 24, 2018, 04:55:02 pm
Adam Ondra is a very good crack climber. Obviously.

remus

Online
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3142
  • Karma: +168/-1
#1796 Re: Ondrawad
February 24, 2018, 06:37:45 pm


The film on it's own if you don't fancy the full live stream.

monkoffunk

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 784
  • Karma: +62/-0
  • sponsored by 90% lindt and vitamin D
#1797 Re: Ondrawad
February 24, 2018, 09:48:21 pm
It would be interesting to see a crack specialists approach to that crux section. He doesn't really use any/many jams, but they do look available.

I'm sure I recall an interview with him when he said there was beta to do the crux without inverting which he had done but thought was harder.

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#1798 Re: Ondrawad
February 24, 2018, 09:50:16 pm
I think it would have been a more satisfying watch to show the whole route.

ghisino

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 664
  • Karma: +36/-0
#1799 Re: Ondrawad
February 24, 2018, 11:03:55 pm
It would be interesting to see a crack specialists approach to that crux section. He doesn't really use any/many jams, but they do look available.

if you imply that he may have chosen another beta had he been "a crack specialist" i find the idea silly... he surely invested some time "studying" cracks for this crux, and has all qualities to be a very fast learner...

that said, beta variations, even radically different ones, would not surprise me much.
Jamming techniques=morpho
Ultrasteep=funkybetaland
ondra's knee flexibility=beyond ordinary...




 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal