[Duma]

Interview excluding climbing:

http://emontana.cz/adam-ondra-interview/

[jfdm]

Short clip about the Ondra climbing philosophy

[jfdm]

Ondra's flash/redpoint attempts now draw big crowds!
Footage a bit ropey.
He's a beast 17 minutes clinging to rock that steep is superhuman.

[bendavison]

Flippin heck. How does he deal with that shit.

[user deactivated]

Was that a Billboard at the foot of the crag?

[Fiend]

Guessing it's some sort of organised event........

[remus]

Looks like he's still got an eye for some lowball limestone hate crimping.

Drift, 8C, FA

[dave]

Some of his Czech crags really make Blackwelldale look good.

[remus]

More butt scraping limestone goodness, this time at a weighty 8C/+.

[dave]

This is what I want to see, this is proper climbing. Ropey phone footage of people crushing their hardest stuff at their local crags. Dropoff at an apparently arbitrary hold. None of this eyepopping Rocklands shit, drones, sliders, timelapse, people only climbing hard when they've travelled half way round the world to find a problem that suits them. This is proper climbing, proper footage. Ondra is a fucking animal.

[Wood FT]

This is what I want to see, this is proper climbing. Ropey phone footage of people crushing their hardest stuff at their local crags. Dropoff at an apparently arbitrary hold. None of this eyepopping Rocklands shit, drones, sliders, timelapse, people only climbing hard when they've travelled half way round the world to find a problem that suits them. This is proper climbing, proper footage. Ondra is a fucking animal.

I'm glad the best climber in the world is a proper climber

[Nibile]

I like his attitude: "Let's wear a kneepad, just in case."
Then: "Fuck the kneebars let's just fucking obliterate this shit."

[petejh]

This is what I want to see, this is proper climbing. Ropey phone footage of people crushing their hardest stuff at their local crags. Dropoff at an apparently arbitrary hold. None of this eyepopping Rocklands shit, drones, sliders, timelapse, people only climbing hard when they've travelled half way round the world to find a problem that suits them. This is proper climbing, proper footage. Ondra is a fucking animal.

This. More inspirational than Reel Rock.

[Teaboy]

Eliminate arse drags at unaesthetic glued crags are the best.

Regards, Teaboy who also couldn't afford a trip to Rocklands this year!

[Doylo]

Long live chossy lime.

[jwi]

Ondra has repeated Meiose, the link-up between Chromosome X and Y in Charmey. Ondra needed three tries (he flashed Chromosme Y three years ago) and says that 9a+ is closer to reality than the previously proposed 9b.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BepiiOxlmfe/

[mde]

Apparently Ondra found a kneebar just before the second hard boulder problem. Bertle had stated that the second hard boulder had to be climbed without any rest or shakeout, hence I assume he did it without the kneebar. Certainly, the easiest beta (and hence the kneebar) counts, but it may explain (at least part of) the difference in grade perception.

[abarro81]

If you watch his video, Bertle uses the knee and shakes on it, but isn't chill like Ondra. Bertle isn't using a pad, which is a bit dumb, and may explain why he can't go no-hands, or Ondra may just be better at knees...

[jwi]

Deep thought of the day: Ondra is likely better at everything climbing-related, including knee-bars.

[teestub]

He put in a lot of specific kneebar training for the upside down on in Silence, so anything more vertical probably feels like a cake walk! Think it was similar in the vid of him trying Steve Mac’s hard route.

[bendavison]

Pirmin says Ondra is so good at kneebars that he needs his own grading scale: http://lizardclimbing.com/?p=3487
Pirmin uses the kneebar at ~6:40 here:

[teestub]

Wow that's a whole lot of bullshit to try and hold on to the grade of the climb!

Looks like Pirmin should have opted from some rubber, rather than a polkadot patch on his trousers!

[Footwork]

Pirmin says Ondra is so good at kneebars that he needs his own grading scale: http://lizardclimbing.com/?p=3487

  he sounds like a complete knob. I want Megos to come over and give it 9a now.

[finbarrr]

but pirmin does use a real kneepad. the actual send footage from 4:30.
he really rubs me the wrong way.
fills me with joy to see his 4 year project downgraded.
and for someone who pretends climbing is this spiritual thing, for him to argue that there is an exact amount of tries Ondra should spend on an 9a+ is laughable.
as is the reasoning that it is a 9b because most climbers are 170 cm?? so he graded it for 170 cm and not for himself and ondra who are 184 and 185?

[bendavison]

Is Pirman as tall as Ondra? Fuck me. So, according to his argument, it might not be 9b for him either? If he was better at kneebars.