[Jaspersharpe]

There's also the classic French ego which demands that the route still be called Biographie.

Which is sort of ironic.

[SA Chris]

Nah, it's classic Yank ego.  Sharma was the first to do 9a+,   5.15 a so therefore the others don't exist. 

[SA Chris]

There's also the classic French ego which demands that the route still be called Biographie.

I think it's fair until Realisation is spelt properly (not with a bloody z!)

[ianv]

There's also the classic French ego which demands that the route still be called Biographie.

Which is sort of ironic.

It's the French way, the equipped names the route not the first ascentist. La plafond is another example.

[mark]

There's also the classic French ego which demands that the route still be called Biographie.

Which is sort of ironic.

It's the French way, the equipped names the route not the first ascentist. La plafond is another example.

Irony upon irony, I think the variant on Plafond was a long-standing project known as Super-Plafond. But when Jibe did it, he renamed it. He called it La Lune Dans Le Caniveau (The Moon in the Gutter) to get a bit of Gallic revenge for Ben's antagonistic route names: Agincourt and Maginot Line.

[r-man]

There's also the classic French ego which demands that the route still be called Biographie.

I think it's fair until Realisation is spelt properly (not with a bloody z!)

Correct spelling depends on how geeky you want to be...

http://grammarist.com/spelling/realise-realize/

[ianv]

Irony upon irony, I think the variant on Plafond was a long-standing project known as Super-Plafond. But when Jibe did it, he renamed it. He called it La Lune Dans Le Caniveau (The Moon in the Gutter) to get a bit of Gallic revenge for Ben's antagonistic route names: Agincourt and Maginot Line.

I saw a guide to Volx this summer that had it in as Super Plafond

[mark]

I saw a guide to Volx this summer that had it in as Super Plafond

As you wrote, the name in France is given by the equipper, so Jibe's rename never caught on.

Anyone know what Agincourt is known as in France?

[JMB]

Ondra's apparently working First Round, First Minute, with some footage:

http://climbingnarc.com/2013/11/remember-first-round-first-minute/

[Jaspersharpe]

Anyone know what Agincourt is known as in France?

I don't think the project had a name. Have only ever seen it referred to as Azincourt by the French so that's one name that did stick!

[Fiend]

3rd 9b+. Guess that puts him on 27g or something.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68562

Adam Ondra has made the first ascent of Vasil Vasil, 9b+, a route he bolted himself five years ago at Sloup in the Czech Republic.

According to his 8a-scorecard, it's a short route which starts with a 7 meter burly 8b section the leads straight into an 8B+ boulder section. It's more or less a "one move route" as the key move is at least 8B in its own right.

Adam also says it's by no means a great line, but rather painful and short, and in a dirty place "but it was there... and I couldn't leave it unclimbed".
This was Adam's third 9b+ first ascent, after Change andLa Dura Dura.

Sounds like he has been taking inspiration from the Mighty G - did you give him a sneak preview of the interview, sharkle?

[Baldy]

The length of that report makes me think that the next 9b+ he does might just get a passing nod.

9b+ = 4 short paragraphs of aknowledgement...

Is that apathy?

[SA Chris]

Is that a path?

To him yes.

[finbarrr]

The length of that report makes me think that the next 9b+ he does might just get a passing nod.

9b+ = 4 short paragraphs of aknowledgement...

Is that apathy?

I'd speculate that ,at this time, anything more would be pure speculation

[Fiend]

Updated item on UKC now. God it actually looks like Peak Limestone  Good effort tho.

[Krank]

its beautiful

[Fiend]

Thank god for UKC non-hotlinking

[Krank]

damn you ukc

[petejh]

''It might be weird that I am so happy after having done such a "piece of shit" ''


Love this attitude, he should visit the cave.

[slackline]

damn you ukc

Just rehost on imgur/yfrog/imageshack

[SA Chris]

I think most people can probably cope with going to ukc if they really want to see a picture

[slackline]

I'm sure they can Chris, had I thought it worth embedding here I would have rehosted it myself and done so.

However, my previous post was for Krank's benefit who seemed mildly riled at having been foiled in his attempt to embed the picture. 

[slackline]

Ondra on Flatanger & Change

[Fiend]

Good stuff.

"The most impressive line is what he calls Project Big, estimated to be 5.15c."

Strong name 

[Jaspersharpe]

Excellent, that "piece of shit" 9b+ looks like it could be at Rubicon. And he spent over 20 days on it.