Ondrawad (Read 1015153 times)

abarro81 · July 09, 2013, 01:33:31 pm

Judging by the photos in the 8a.nu gallery of the crag, I don't think that's a photo of the route, which looks awesome:
www.8a.nu/gallery/Image.aspx?ImageId=77240

JamieG · July 09, 2013, 01:50:18 pm

Quote from: abarro81 on July 09, 2013, 01:33:31 pm

Judging by the photos in the 8a.nu gallery of the crag, I don't think that's a photo of the route, which looks awesome:
www.8a.nu/gallery/Image.aspx?ImageId=77240

The photos from facebook looks like the Flatanger (sp?) cave in Norway where he did Change.

masonwoods101 · July 09, 2013, 01:51:11 pm

Looks Awsome...

Duma · July 09, 2013, 02:59:03 pm

Rocksteady · July 09, 2013, 04:40:16 pm

Legend, glad he's got one. Imagine the sound effects were epic.

lukeyboy · July 09, 2013, 04:46:05 pm

Quote from: abarro81 on July 09, 2013, 01:33:31 pm

Judging by the photos in the 8a.nu gallery of the crag, I don't think that's a photo of the route, which looks awesome:
www.8a.nu/gallery/Image.aspx?ImageId=77240

That looks incredible. Presumably he's run out of single pitch 9a's to try by now

jwi · July 09, 2013, 05:15:43 pm

lukeyboy · July 12, 2013, 01:25:41 pm

Interview

Fiend · July 12, 2013, 01:44:54 pm

Quote

I saw it for the first time last night, in the last rays of sun it looked absolutely amazing and I knew I just had to climb it. I was so excited I couldn't fall asleep, even though I knew I had to wake up early.

Good lad

Baldy · July 12, 2013, 03:25:55 pm

Quote

Well, I tried a route which I thought was 8a and fell off at about half-height. But I wasn't that worried because I then found out that it wasn't even in the guidebook. I then ran around and flapped my arms as best I could and then set off.

Inspirational words from the bigman

jwi · July 12, 2013, 10:11:07 pm

My french is shaky (I had german in school) but Kairn reports (?) that Adam Ondra onsighted Torture Physic, 9a, just before doing La cabane, but downgraded it to easy 8c+. He also did a fa of an extension of Torture at 9a+/b

Rocksteady · July 15, 2013, 04:59:19 pm

This picture needs more explanation. Or has it caught the secret of Ondra's success on camera? A pre-climb ninja gurn, for strength?

slackline · July 15, 2013, 05:00:55 pm

Demonstration of crux move

IanP · August 05, 2013, 04:55:37 pm

Has it now got to the point that a new 9b isn't news where Ondra is concerned?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68263

Tough crowd!

Wood FT · August 05, 2013, 05:01:06 pm

that's a cracking photo, rose et le ondrawad

Jaspersharpe · August 05, 2013, 07:42:00 pm

Quote from: GuyVG on August 05, 2013, 05:01:06 pm

that's a cracking photo, rose et le ondrawad

It is. Although crossing through off a minging crimp to a flared finger lock looks a tad harder than the Rose's nice juggy drilled pockets!

How times change.

JMB · August 05, 2013, 07:56:53 pm

Quote from: IanP on August 05, 2013, 04:55:37 pm

Has it now got to the point that a new 9b isn't news where Ondra is concerned?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68263

Tough crowd!

Ondra has succeeded in making 9b boring, surely one of his greatest achievements.

gme · August 06, 2013, 07:59:31 am

I was lucky enough to see him on this last week. Amazing route, took a load of pictures that I can post up when I get them off my camera.
Flatanger is a special place. The limited climbing I did was top quality and what's left to do defies belief.
Ondra is in love with the place and I is spending the rest of the summer there.

Great place for the family as well, good biking, good walking, boating, canoeing and great fishing. Pretty much lived on fresh fish.

r-man · August 15, 2013, 03:15:57 pm

Quote

Adam Ondra attempting the upper crux on the new project at Flatanger in Norway. Photo by Seb Bouin

tomtom · August 15, 2013, 03:54:57 pm

I power squawked in sympathy when I saw that picture..

Rocksteady · August 16, 2013, 10:22:11 am

Quote from: gme on August 06, 2013, 07:59:31 am

Flatanger is a special place. The limited climbing I did was top quality and what's left to do defies belief.
Ondra is in love with the place and I is spending the rest of the summer there.

Great place for the family as well, good biking, good walking, boating, canoeing and great fishing. Pretty much lived on fresh fish.

Sorry

but what level of development has Flatanger seen? Are there climbs in the 7s for the average punter? Or is it all 8s and 9s?

gme · August 16, 2013, 10:57:16 am

The development there is in its infancy but there is enough there to keep most happy for a few weeks as long as you like to redpoint stuff, if you want a ticking onsighting trip you would run out of stuff to do. Loads of very good 6s both bolted and trad on the crags outside the cave.

In the cave there is basically around 10 routes of most ranges ie low 7s, high 7s, low 8s, high 8s etc. However i would think that there will be more and more rapidly, its not due to lack of rock, or that there is no scope for 7s and 8s, but due to lack of development. There is a crag just round the corner that must be three times the size of Kilnsey without a route on it.

Berit and Olav Strom that own the place are incredibly friendly and welcoming, treating my kids like there own including taking us out fishing in there boat. They are keen on pushing the whole climbing thing and opening up new crags and developing the campsite, which at present is a field and the use of there own downstairs bathroom in the farmhouse. They have produced a guidebook and now have a Facebook page.

I personally fell in love with the place, as did Helen and the kids who don't really climb, there is something a bit magical about it, a bit like Ceuse was in the late 80s early 90s. We were not on a climbing trip but i couldn't resist a look as we were passing, ended up staying for 4 days even though i only climbed for about 3 hours one morning. Rest of the time was fishing, biking and walking.

Fiend · August 16, 2013, 12:12:13 pm

Quote from: gme on August 16, 2013, 10:57:16 am

In the cave there is basically around 10 routes of most ranges ie low 7s, high 7s, low 8s, high 8s, soft 9bs etc

HTH. Sounds really nice, good report.

SEDur · August 16, 2013, 03:59:24 pm

Quote from: gme on August 16, 2013, 10:57:16 am

Berit and Olav Strom that own the place are incredibly friendly and welcoming, treating my kids like there own including taking us out fishing in there boat. They are keen on pushing the whole climbing thing and opening up new crags and developing the campsite, which at present is a field and the use of there own downstairs bathroom in the farmhouse. They have produced a guidebook and now have a Facebook page.

For the lazy among us, have you got any links?
Whats the area like for walks/MTB/Fishing etc?

gme · August 16, 2013, 04:19:18 pm

I do not have the technical ability to link to a facebook page sorry. i am sure you can find it. Full photo sequence of his last 9b on my facebook page but agin i have no idea how i get them on here.

The fishing is out of this world if your even vaguely competent and i have no doubt i could easily live off fish there. We had Cod to over 6lbs casting about 50 yards with a spinning rod, pollock and mackerel all day long. great spot 10mins from the campsite. If your really into it check out fishing in Flatanger, the Brit and German anglers have been going there for years on package deals and catch Cod to 40lbs, Halibut to 5 0lbs Pollack over 20 from the shore regularly. There is a big angling festival there every year in Feb for the very reason that its so good. Nearby Namos has the best Salmon fishing in the world, but it costs. Trout and pike in pretty much every lake and there's lots.

Check out this video from the area if your really interested (my youngest is obsessed)

I didnt get off road on the bikes as with the kids but i cant believe its not good. The walking is superb but little in the way of paths. however you can go where you want as there is full public access to all land.