[slackline]

Which is why I said I'm finding it cliched.  The phrase may be important, as you think it is, but still be cliched to me as its fairly obvious that people don't climb to grade chase and the same or variations on a theme are heard in most videos these days (although it can be used very well for example the use of the phrase is parodied in Vertical Sailing when they set off up a grass choked crack!).

Anyway  and I'm not about to derail another thread.

[andy_e]

otherwise we'd all be believing the spurious shite andi_e is mistakenly spouting as a counter-argument (are people really so wrapped up in their grade-chasing they can't perceive climbing otherwise?).

Not that, but their egos demand that they want to seem so aloof and cool and at one with mother nature.

[Muenchener]

they'd be travelling around the world climbing stunning VDiffs.

Such as ...?

Cool-looking inspiring lines to tend to involve harder climbing. I'm certainly finding that in the area I live in and the level I currently climb at. Alpine multipitch sport routes at around 6a/b for eaxmple - even ones that are supposedly "classics" of the genre -  tend to be not very inspiring lines with lots of pretty scrappy pitches and only the odd good bit. The really cool-looking lines start at quite a bit harder.

Of course "quite a bit harder" relative to 6a/b doesn't necessarily have to mean 9a upwards. I'm quite willing to believe that diminshing returns kick in at some point. But the fact remains that harder climbs are, often, better, and that one valid reason to want to climb harder is to be able to get on a wider selection of inspiring-looking lines in cool situations.

(OK, I'd be willing to concede the Sgurr Dubh Mor Slabs on Skye as a rare example of an easy route that it is utterly stunning. Name another)

[Fiend]

one valid reason to want to climb harder is to be able to get on a wider selection of inspiring-looking lines in cool situations.

Congratulations, we have a winner.

Anyway, what was the topic. Flashing two 9as and downgrading them to 8c+....errrr....yes rather good. Not much to add to that!

[a dense loner]

Can we keep this thread on track with Ondra being a wad instead of descending into farce again

[petejh]

At the risk of descending back into farce mode (instead of going into beast mode)...

What strikes me as so inspiring about Ondra, apart from his climbing ability, is his attitude. Think about how a hell of a lot of other good climbers in the same position as Ondra would act - you've just flashed a route given 9a+, and onsighted two routes given 9a; how many climbers would be happy to claim it? All bar a very few is my guess.  Not him - he's just turned down the opportunity to be the first ever to O/S 9a. Twice.  That to me shows an unusual ability to distance himself from the hype.  I can't imagine a more narcissistic climber ever having the sort of self-control to ignore the little glory-hunting devil on one shoulder and instead listen to the angel on the other telling you it might not really be the grade given! Admittedly he's become the first ever to flash 9a, and it'll probably be Ondra who does become the first to onsight 9a but still...

(and until he solos 7b+ in the welsh hills he's not kidding anyone)

[Richie Crouch]

I fucking love reading about Ondra destruction. Looking forward to seeing some footage of him trying really hard!

[Doylo]

It must be boring being that good at climbing!

Too right, what is climbing without spending years wondering if you'll ever be good enough to tick your dream climb.  The joy when you do something only lasts 30 minutes.  Even his 9b+ didn't seem to be too much of an epic, he needs to spend 50 days on something to get a real feel for the game 

[andy_e]

When that banal shite is layed on in climbing videos it always sounds rehearsed and hackneyed as the driving to the crag scene. We.all.climb to climb beautiful lines, just like we all.drive to the crag.

[JMB]

Daniel Woods confirmed the downgrade on Pure Imagination today after flashing (!) it with beta from Ondra. Unless I'm forgetting someone that makes him only the 4th climber to flash or better on an 8c+ route (Ondra, Ramonet, and Paxi being the others, all onsights), which is pretty impressive for a guy who until this year was mostly a boulderer rather than route climber.

[Doylo]

Yes it is impressive! Sits nicely with his font 8b+ flash.

[moose]

..... he needs to spend 50 days on something to get a real feel for the game 

He should move to the UK and tear-up his passport.  He'll then get to spend months at a time fruitlessly waiting for holds to dry.... not that I'm bitter (my first season of sport-climbing, whilst more successful than I expected, became akin to a course in "character building" designed by a seepage obsessed sadist).

[Doylo]

He had wet holds in Norway I suppose....

[petejh]

I heard when Ondra goes into beast-mode, seepage retreats. 

[Kingy]

Unbelievable, it makes you wonder how hard things like mutation must be, I can't see that one getting flashed anytime soon. (I may live to eat these words! although I believe Ondra has been on it).

[r-man]

Unbelievable, it makes you wonder how hard things like mutation must be.

Eh? Sport routes aren't graded for onsights, are you getting confused with trad? 

[Kingy]

That's true but I reckon onsight or redpoint, Mutation might compare well difficulty wise with some of these enduro fests in RRG, although of course its a completely different style. Incidently, interestingly I don't think Ondra managed to onsight Mecca which is a lowly 8b+ which perhaps comfirms that tor routes are difficult to onsight.

[Baldy]

Ondra Bolting in RRG

http://imgur.com/a/M2JEf

[Falling Down]

Must have read your post Doylo.

[SA Chris]

And the "the next level" thread.

Shame he only has 90 days to complete the lifetime project before US Immigration come for him.

[shark]

Incidently, interestingly I don't think Ondra managed to onsight Mecca which is a lowly 8b+ which perhaps comfirms that tor routes are difficult to onsight.

AFAIK he didn't get on it.

[Falling Down]

 

[shark]

The latest:

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/two-514-onsights-ondra

 

[Duma]

Am I missing something, or are you? That article is 5 days old, and JBM linked it on here 2 pages ago.

[SA Chris]

Good to see the moderators with their fingers on the pulse.