[dave]

What the fuck. Somebody buy this kid a train ticket to carnforth.

[petejh]

Wad the fuck

[Baldy]

Phew, that wall is way more overhung than I thought it was, dont know why I thought it was straight up when it is covered in 9a routes...but there you go. 

[abarro81]

You might be thinking of the wall with pure imagination and golden ticket - pretty sure that's a different wall and is less steep

[SA Chris]

This + Ashima news is crazy. Wish I was in the Red River Gorge (a) climbing and (b) watching all this stuff go down.

Wonder if young love will blossom in Kentucky?

How young you talking ?

It is kentucky. If you get out your teens unmarried you are regarded as over the hill.

[JMB]

Predictable UKC thread in the wake of this: "Which is harder to onsight, 9a or Indian Face?"

[Krank]

I have done much except this, first two days I was warming up, then I tried 24 Carats, 8c+, and came quite close to onsighting, whereas on Lucifer, 8c+, I was miles away and sent it 4th go. I hadn't thought I was in a good shape, unsure about what to do and whether to save the flashes and onsights for the next year, but luckily I didn't save at least that flash. The grade is definitely 9a (5.14d), I do think that all the guys who gave me the beta (Cedric, Daniel, Jon) agree with that.

[Muenchener]

Predictable UKC thread in the wake of this: "Which is harder to onsight, 9a or Indian Face?"

Started, however, by John Arran whose climbing credentials are rather more solid than most people there. Or here.

[Nibile]

Note the different shoe choice, Futura left, Python right.
Just to be sure nothing is left out of the plan.

[SA Chris]

Predictable UKC thread in the wake of this: "Which is harder to onsight, 9a or Indian Face?"

Started, however, by John Arran whose climbing credentials are rather more solid than most people there. Or here.

So what?  He really should know better.

[Fiend]

And Ru, and Midgets Of The World

I'm sure some of them are talking sense, I tried to read it but couldn't manage it.

Flashing 9a is awesome and I agree the "corner" in the background looks ace.

[lagerstarfish]

quick! get that man's metrics to feed into Slackers data bank

Shirley a wider grade spread will make it easier to spot patterns?

[Ru]

And Ru, and Midgets Of The World

In my defence, I am ashamed. My excuse was that I'd finished my work and was too ill to train.

[a dense loner]

Ure a barrister man, "I'm ashamed" is no defence!
Was going to suggest anyone replying to that thread be instantly banned from ukb but since we'd lose our 2 smallest posters I'll refrain

[SA Chris]

Yeah if we lose them two then it's just magpie and you.

[moose]

 

Predictable UKC thread in the wake of this: "Which is harder to onsight, 9a or Indian Face?"

I'm waiting for the thread querying the achievement because of pre-placed draws and chalk on the holds.

[Muenchener]

Predictable UKC thread in the wake of this: "Which is harder to onsight, 9a or Indian Face?"

I'm waiting for the thread querying the achievement because of pre-placed draws and chalk on the holds.

There was a thread on one of the American forums that I read the other day regarding the recent ascent of Dreamcatcher, in which some tw*t popped up with a snide comment about pre-placed draws. The others very commendably ignored him and carried on with the conversation.

[Doylo]

Who does 9a putting the clips in!

[petejh]

The guy who onsights indian face.

[JMB]

Who does 9a putting the clips in!

Didn't Ondra do that on Nordic Flower? (or did he downgrade that to 8c+ or something?)

[slackline]

The guy who onsights indian face.

 

[JMB]

DPM reporting that Ondra onsighted Pure Imagination (9a) and The Golden Ticket (9a) in the same day, suggesting lower 8c+ for Pure Imagination and hard 8c+ for Golden Ticket.

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/two-514-onsights-ondra

[Grubes]

Ondra seems to be causing more devastation


Even if they get a downgrade too 8c+ onsight in a day is pretty amazing
 

[jwi]

 
Reminds me of how Moffatt went to Frankenjura in '83 and onsighted the three hardest routes there.

[ali k]

Fuck me that is incredible 

Not doubting Ondra's grading skills but maybe he is just too strong now. Either that or the routes in RRG are so suited to on-sights that it feels like a redpoint would anywhere else?