[Muenchener]

New interview up on Peter Beal's blog

What is so nice about climbing is that you don't have to be necessarily the strongest to climb the best. You can always find tons of climbers who are physically able to climb really hard, but don't climb efficiently.

[Fiend]

Nice interview, nice to see his passion coming across.

Not sure that video is the most interesting of Adam, though. I still think the 3 from Fontainbleau are the most awesome.

[jwi]

9a on Czech sandstone in the Elbe valley. Bolted ground up of course

[andy popp]

That's a bit mad.

[chris_j_s]

This one shows the successful redpoint.

[ghisino]

9a on Czech sandstone in the Elbe valley. Bolted ground up of course

on one side it's really cool, on the other it makes me curious about the local bolting ethics and usual drilling systems (ie if it is usual to drill two small "aid bolts" to get a secure stance before going for the big one).

[finbarrr]

a cheat stone... really?!?!

[Muenchener]

on one side it's really cool, on the other it makes me curious about the local bolting ethics and usual drilling systems (ie if it is usual to drill two small "aid bolts" to get a secure stance before going for the big one).

Never climbed in the area, but from what I recall reading about it yes, that's the normal technique.

[Stubbs]

a cheat stone... really?!?!

It's hardly a pile is it? look how boulder strewn the floor is.

[Oldmanmatt]

On a totally unrelated topic, I was climbing with a Czech guy on Friday who comes from Brno, Ondra's home town. He had a pair of Miura's that he claimed (plausibly) were Ondra's cast-offs. I put my feet in them briefly. The next day I sent a very long standing local project, possible also a new grade level for me. Magic ...   

Were they Ruby Red?

And did you click your heels and say "There's no grade like 9a, there's no grade like 9a"...

[Muenchener]

I believe the initial small bolt has to be placed 100% on lead without skyhooks etc

Ever tried a skyhook on sandstone? I have. It cut straight through and dumped me on my arse (fortunately I was trying it out at ground level before embarking on the actual nefarious plan)

[shark]

On a totally unrelated topic, I was climbing with a Czech guy on Friday who comes from Brno, Ondra's home town. He had a pair of Miura's that he claimed (plausibly) were Ondra's cast-offs. I put my feet in them briefly. The next day I sent a very long standing local project, possible also a new grade level for me. Magic ...   

Were they Ruby Red?

And did you click your heels and say "There's no grade like 9a, there's no grade like 9a"...

Nice. Had to google that.

Yeah right.

There's no shame in being a friend of Dorothy

[robertostallioni]

We're not in Kalymnos anymore, Toto

[slackline]

I also recall that there are some bizarre and scary additional rules: first bolt has to be at 10m, bolts have to be spaced 4m ... something like that (I forget the exact detail).

Its a short 10m if so....



From a report from Adam on Planetmountain.com which has more details on the route which was originally bolted on abseil by a German ignoring the local ethics.  These bolts were chopped and new ones placed ground-up.

[Fiend]

So this is the famous Czech ethics to protect the rock?? 

[jwi]

It works quite well, at least north of the border. Go there and see for yourself.

[Fiend]

This one shows the successful redpoint.
Adam Ondra climb, To tu ještě nebylo XIIb, Labské údolí.

At 6 minutes....after a load of edit-out-able attempts! Pity they didn't have a cameraman in the tree as the climbing you can see looks cool.

[Nibile]

Ondra did the 2nd ascent of Moroni's 8c+ "bella regis", on sight s'il vous plait.

[boulderingbacon]

not enough can be said for just how good he is. his ability to read the rock of something so hard whilst on-sighting is incredible.

[Kingy]

He has just onsighted El Frutto del Diavolo, Gabri Moroni's Italian 8c+ FA

[HaeMeS]

From http://www.up-climbing.com/en/news/rock/adam-ondra--at-bus-de-vela-update
about El Frutto del Diavolo: "Unfortunately for Adam, his foot slipped and the onsight attempt failed."

[Kingy]

Oops, jumped the gun!

[Doylo]

Can't win em all...

[Nibile]

You start with a foot slip on an 8c+ onsight, and before you realize it, your career is over. Happened to me also. True story.

[Jaspersharpe]

Punter!