[account_inactive]

I think that Graeme is referring to Jerry

[GraemeA]

I think that Graeme is referring to Jerry

Not quite, I was paying due homage to the shit stained shorts boy by using his quote. But obviously Dan the Man and Ned the Ned can hang the 45 degree deranged Tory Boy (ie sloper) so who is the 3rd person. Obviously Ondra is a weak punter if he can't 

[jwi]

So Overshadow may be the world's first 9b route then?

[dave]

Bearing in mind rouhling did akira at F9b in 1995.

[jwi]

route I wrote. (Can of worms to open eager I am.)

[account_inactive]

I think that Graeme is referring to Jerry

Not quite, I was paying due homage to the shit stained shorts boy by using his quote. But obviously Dan the Man and Ned the Ned can hang the 45 degree deranged Tory Boy (ie sloper) so who is the 3rd person. Obviously Ondra is a weak punter if he can't 

I know at least 5 people who can hang them (obviously not me)

[Jaspersharpe]

Er, loads of people can hang them but Stu was on about "his" Beastmaker which I presume is either mounted at a slightly different angle or smeared with lard thus making hanging the 45s a much more difficult proposition. There's been much discussion before about slight differences in how the board is mounted and in temperature / wood grain etc can make a huge difference to how hard it is to use certain holds.


At least I think that's what Stu meant. 

[RichK]

http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=37381

[Stu Littlefair]

Er, loads of people can hang them but Stu was on about "his" Beastmaker which I presume is either mounted at a slightly different angle or smeared with lard thus making hanging the 45s a much more difficult proposition. There's been much discussion before about slight differences in how the board is mounted and in temperature / wood grain etc can make a huge difference to how hard it is to use certain holds.


At least I think that's what Stu meant. 

Well, he didn't see any other beastmakers, so yeah - that's what I meant. My board isn't really mounted straight, which probably doesn't help. And he looked at it for 30 seconds. After all that crushing, are we really going to fixate on his beastmaker prowess? Have we really strayed so far from the path?

[Jaspersharpe]

Personally I couldn't care less. Just being a pedant about people getting their facts right. 

[GraemeA]

Well Stu when I see Ondra at the first Bouldering World Cup next week I will tell him that your BM wasn't set correctly. This will reassure him that he isn't as weak as piss and he will go onto to win the comp with his self confidence restored.

[Aussiegav]

out of interest, has any UK climbing journalist had a formal interview with Ondra??
it would be worthwhile reading a climbing magazine with a decent well constructed article for a change..

the week past has done 3 things IMO,
1. shown that england has some hard world class sport routes
2. Ondra is simply in a class of his own. once in a generation talent
3. that a guy who works and has a  young family still manages to be the best climber in england. great effort steve 
this i feel is equally a outstanding achievement.


hopefully this week will be the catalyst for a new generation of strong and talented UK climbers .  time will tell..

[GraemeA]

Grimer interviewed him at Arco in September, can't remember if it appeared anywhere though

[cowboyhat]

3. that a guy who works and has a  young family still manages to be the best climber in england. great effort steve 
this i feel is equally a outstanding achievement.

Hear, hear.

[grimer]

Grimer interviewed him at Arco in September, can't remember if it appeared anywhere though

Yes I did. It formed part of an article I did for Rock and Ice. Here's the pertinent section:

In an effort to justify my existence from a journalistic point of view, I decided I would interview the best climber in the world. Adam Ondra is only sixteen years old and eats 9a for breakfast, lunch and dinner. This might well be all he eats, for he is tall and skinny, with gangling limbs and with his knucklejoint knees and shy loping walk, he reminds me of an hour-old foal. Chris Sharma once told me that he understands what all the top climbers in the world do, and how they do it, apart from Adam. Adam was on a different level, he assured me.

“Good luck,” a Spanish journalist wished me. "I have tried to interview Adam now three times but he is very shy. Very shy.”

I suspected this was true. Earlier Adam had been at the prize ceremony, having come third to the Austrian David Lama and Spaniard Ramonet. Adam stood on the 3rd place box while an amazing looking blond beauty gave a huge bunch of flowers to him. He stood, awkwardly, obviously not really knowing what to do. I recognised this look from my own teenage experiences, and I imagined the horror of standing there with everyone looking. Next David came out, looking cool and surly and confident and they shook hands. Ramonet then came out (Ramonet, little Ramonet who, when stood on the winner’s block was still a little shorter than Adam on his third-place block), and he and David gave each other one of this cool handshakes, with different parts to it and biceps and backslaps. He turned to Adam and they exchanged one of those handshakes that you imagine English explorers give each other at the South Pole in 1907.

I found him, and he agreed to an interview. We sat down on a bench, I set up my Dictaphone and launched off into my specially prepared questions.

“What’s your favourite colour? Do you prefer cats? Tits or ass?

These weren’t the questions I really asked, although maybe I should have. Instead I asked about 9as and redpointing and grades. He answered politely, but quite soon into it a voice inside my head started to point out the fact that this was probably the hundredth time some tedious man more than twice his age was asking him the same tedious questions. It started to point out to me what a bore I was, and whether I had nothing better to do than asking little boys about what subjects they do at school. Pretty soon, to save both of us from further humiliation, I found myself thanking Adam effusively for a tremendous interview and scurrying off to a café to drown my embarrassment in some melted cheese.

[GraemeA]

Would that be the same David Lama who later on that evening was trying to fathom out whether he could extract the Guiness that flows in all Irish viens by sucking bits of your body?

[Percy B]

Would that be the same David Lama who later on that evening was trying to fathom out whether he could extract the Guiness that flows in all Irish viens by sucking bits of your body?

I don't know about everybody else, but I have spent the last few moments trying to shift some very disturbing imagery from my mind..... "Ahhhh, c'mon David. The Irish body has even evolved a special fleshy nozzle to distribute the 'Guiness', to be sure, to be sure...."

[duncan]

most importantly; he said the 45s on my beastmaker we're 'impossible'. Makes me feel better for never managing to hang them...

This brings to mind a comment from Jack Geldard's blog, attributed to Adam Long:

“My lodger spends his evenings in our cellar hanging off a piece of carved wood he calls a ‘beastmaker’, he claims this is training for rock climbing. Bizarre.”

[c.j.d.]

Nodder can hang the 45's for 30 seconds.  Thats 8a you know.  Wow, Nodders cooler than Ondra.  Nodra - a new breed.

[c.j.d.]

Although that could be absolute shit, spray  and hearsay.   

[Fultonius]

absolute shit, spray  and hearsay.   

That sounds like the recipe for a UKC News Article... 

[chummer]

A 'Nodra' would be able to lock'em off with one arm whilst rolling a tab with the other..

[Jim]

wouldn't a nodra have snakes instead of hair?

that would be far cooler than dangling off a bit of wood

[RichK]

Apparently he on-sighted Predator, the Oak and Magnetic and had 3 RPs on Overshadow.

Got some footage which I'll bob on here when I work out how
 

Rubbish footage I'm afraid.............

[Aussiegav]

from Rich K's Energy Vampire video.
"its ok to grab the chain"
what sort of ethics are they??