[Ru]

What did he tick? Progress/Northern Lights? 

He went on North Star yesterday, got quite close, not sure if he went back on it today.

[Serpico]

Ironically Ondra turned up at Kilnsey today...

What did he tick? Progress/Northern Lights? 

He did Northern Star today and reckoned it was 9a and probably helped to be tall on it, and as I left he was falling off Northern Lights on redpoint.
But the BIG news is R-Man got his wish, sort of, on his rest day Ondra went to look at Violent New Breed.
We can only wonder as to why it didn't then make it on to his wish list...

[griffer]

his attempts on Northern lighs were very impressive!

having sent northern star first redpoint, he then decided on "northern Ligts", when was the last time a climber had been on this and cleaned the route? 2-3 years?

spent an hour and a half working it, but very unsure on the line, came up with a sequence.

had a redpoint, but it didnt go well no sure on the line or sequence and no one at the crag could help.

then had 2 redpoint attempts, getting to the crux and trying, hard!

all this in 7 degres and a strong wind, for some of us mortals it was too cold to climb hard.....................................................

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

Ironically Ondra turned up at Kilnsey today...

What did he tick? Progress/Northern Lights? 

He did Northern Star today and reckoned it was 9a and probably helped to be tall on it, and as I left he was falling off Northern Lights on redpoint.
But the BIG news is R-Man got his wish, sort of, on his rest day Ondra went to look at Violent New Breed.
We can only wonder as to why it didn't then make it on to his wish list...

Serpico? don't remember seeing this shadowy mythical internet poster at Kilnsey today...


OndraWad definately didn't do Overshadow on saturday just to clarify. but crushed northern star impressively, hadnt done northernlights when i left.

Cheers
Tim

[Serpico]

Serpico? don't remember seeing this shadowy mythical internet poster at Kilnsey today...

Nobody ever sees me, but I'm always there.
And I know what you did last summer...

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

p.s. Serpico, just started the essential tralalallalalalla thread

[Johnny Brown]

Who the fuck's advising this guy? The g-spot is bad enough, but... jesus. Red dot traverse anyone?

[GCW]

Neil Conway was a visionary.

[Ru]

If that was the Hutton Roof thread I think it was a 'joke'.

[jonny2vests]

Content, delivery and timing....

Apologies.  I shall analyse your blog for tips on how to stick my head up my arse.

Doesnt sound like any tips are required 

And I thought UKC was bitchy.

[ian dunn]

Neil Conway was a visionary.

Neil Conway who! I think you mean Nick Conway no visionary just a beast with eyes for a good line.

[GCW]

Ooops.  Yes, hence Nick's Traverse   

[RichK]

.
But the BIG news is R-Man got his wish, sort of, on his rest day Ondra went to look at Violent New Breed.
We can only wonder as to why it didn't then make it on to his wish list...

Mmm VNB world class or a pile of 

[Ackbar]

I noticed that there hasn't been any other news in the last 5 days other than Ondra.  Does this mean that everyone is sat under Malham/Kilnsey crag watching?

[Krank]

VNB might not be world class but is definitely dirty hard which is why so many people would like someone like Ondra get on it. Didn't McClure say something along the lines of unthinkable difficult.

[r-man]

But the BIG news is R-Man got his wish, sort of, on his rest day Ondra went to look at Violent New Breed.
We can only wonder as to why it didn't then make it on to his wish list...

Details, where are the details?! Did you talk to Ondra about it? What did he have to say?

[roddersm]

Any news?? Really want to go climbing today but don't want to leave my computer in case I miss some thing 

[Jaspersharpe]

Thought I'd have a look on Cocktalk to see if there was any more information. It was a mistake.....

[mark s]

Haha,more people wanting him to try trad.its like trying to get valentino rossi into F1.why when you the best! Some of the comments on there are cringe worthy

[Aussiegav]

on a side note, what has he done bouldering???
anything of note?

excuse my ignorance, but lord of the rings & harry potter books have never been of interest to me

[Johnny Brown]

Pissed up a couple of 8Bs on his rest days I think.

[GCW]

Not a lot really, he's more of a routes man.  He's only done:

7 8b+ (one of which is Dreamtime again, after hold breakage- different sequence)            
19  8b (3 flashed)         
29 8a+ (5 flashed)                  
51 8 (15 flashed)

Crap really 

[Nemo]

"Who the fuck's advising this guy?"

He is.  He's come to the UK to climb at the best sport climbing cliffs in the UK - i.e Malham and Kilnsey.  Anyone wanting him to go anywhere else should get over it.  So far he’s had 2 days at each with a rest day in between.  Presumably he’s headed back to one or the other today to try and finish off either Overshadow or Northern Lights. 

Its great that he’s managed to avoid the usual trap sprung on visiting sport climbers who, arriving in Sheffield, are informed that sport climbing is rubbish, and that what they really want to do is to go out on the grit so they can be burnt off by the locals on scary slabs!
 
"all this in 7 degrees and a strong wind, for some of us mortals it was too cold to climb hard....................................................."

Whilst it may be too cold if you are wanting to have a pleasant, relaxed weekends sport climbing, if you are wanting to climb the hard routes on North Buttress at Kilnsey, conditions are about as perfect as they ever get.  Those routes are normally only ever dry in summer when it is also usually hot and sweaty.  To get them dry at the beginning of May, on a week with cold northerly winds blowing down the crag is incredibly lucky. 

I think he’s also been smart to realise this and shift his attention from Malham to Kilnsey once he realised it was dry.  Good conditions at Malham (and Raven’s Tor etc) are much easier to come by.


As for VNB – To be fair, unlike most of Gaskins’ offerings, this is actually on decent rock and is actually in a nice location.  Unfortunately it is also a nasty 3 or 4 move Font 8C boulder problem up an 8 foot square wall stuck on top of a 25 foot HVS.  Nothing wrong with that if that’s your bag, but it ain’t what Ondra’s come here for.  (As others have said, boulderers like Nalle are the kind of people who are more likely to be interested in this.)

[GCW]

As for VNB – To be fair, unlike most a small proportion of Gaskins’ offerings, this is actually on decent rock and is actually in a nice location.

[Fiend]

As for VNB – To be fair, unlike most a small proportion all but 2 or 3 of Gaskins’ offerings, this is actually on decent rock and is actually in a nice location.

I think VNB looks like very good rock in the classic photo of the Big G on it. But I can see how it is so specialist it's not really one for Ondra.