[petejh]

Here's my iphone footage of Ondra flashing Biographie 8c+ and falling on Realization. Excuse the cheesy commentary.




Amazing really how long he's on there for - around 9 minutes from V11 start moves to falling off at the Realization/Biographie crux.

[Adam Lincoln]

So maybe the flash was further off than originally thought. God effort anyway.

bear in mind the effort he will have put in for the flash will have left him spannered for the rest of the day, then again he does do multiple hard shit in a day quite regularly

The days he failed to redpoint were subsequent days.

[Doylo]

So maybe the flash was further off than originally thought. God effort anyway.

I never succombed to the flash hype, it is 9a+! Two grades harder than he's manged first go. He'll flash 9a soon though...

[SA Chris]

God effort anyway.

Devine!

Unintentional, but apt.

[HaeMeS]

It's been relatively quiet the past couple of weeks. Ondra's summer holiday has started casually with a few quick repeats, a couple of new 8c/8c+ routes in Sweden (Bohuslan) and Norway (Sogndal). It seems he found dry rock and is fit...

 

- Most difficult boulder in Norway (Blood Redemption by Magnus Midtbo, 8B+/8C) repeated: http://www.norsk-klatring.no/Ute/Buldring/Ondra-har-repetert-Blood-Redemption-8C
- Eye of Odin, the new 8c+ in Flatanger onsight and a new 9a+/b as well: http://borebloggen.blogspot.nl/

More to follow (if he finds dry rock up north)!

 

[Fiend]

Nice he's exploring some different, cool, areas.

[Nibile]

Nice he's exploring some different, cool, areas.

He's not exploring, he's only trying to find sometthing he hasn't already climbed.

[Jaspersharpe]

Needs to get back to The Tor then.

[Doylo]

Needs to get back to The Tor then.

He knows when he's beaten 

[nai]

Maybe he's preparing for his return by practicing somewhere even wetter than here 

[slackline]

Certainly getting some practice in....

[iwasmexican]

Certainly getting some practice in....

"...just need to work it more and to get a bit stronger..."




ha

[lukeyboy]

If he gets any stronger he'll start ripping holds off the wall

[GCW]

Sounds like he's done his project at Hanshelleren Cave, Norway.  Change 9b+.

[r-man]

Sounds like he's done his project

Did you hear the scream too?

Awesome stuff.

[Doylo]

Historic

[neilpearsons]

I don't know what's more shocking - the thought of F9b+ or the lack of comment on here.
Surely this has to be up there with all the other grade-breaking routes that got so much attention when they were done, and still get attention 20 years on, like Hubble and Action Directe.
Is everyone too  to type?
This may prove to be the ultimate sport route for our time - hard bouldering for 55 metres. Can't wait to see the video. A fantastic effort by the best climber of his generation.

[leeroy]

I don't know what's more shocking - the thought of F9b+ or the lack of comment on here.

Not much to add! the ascent speaks for itself!

Can't wait to see the video.

Ditto, might have to wait for the next adam ondra film....

[petejh]

I don't know what's more shocking - the thought of F9b+ or the lack of comment on here.
Surely this has to be up there with all the other grade-breaking routes that got so much attention when they were done, and still get attention 20 years on, like Hubble and Action Directe.

Written six hours after news of the ascent broke on here? What's more shocking is you consider six hours of no hyperbole 'shocking'. The speed we hear about stuff these days; it makes for historic ascents becoming old news by the end of the week. Jumpers for goalposts etc..

[jwi]

Cool!  Let me start the speculations.

1) If Change really is 9b+, a 9a o/s will surely follow.  Is there any easy-to-read long 9a Ondra hasn't climbed yet?

2) Ondra will soon stop this cragging nonsense and move into alpinism. Only in the mountains will there be challenges left.

[moose]

Ondra's freeing of Tough Enough was a pretty good foray away from "cragging". Christ knows what he could do on big walls if he, say, spent a season in Yosemite. Not sure about Alpinism though, a storm or a clumsy guide knocking a serac on top of him....noooooo!

[slackline]

Is everyone too  to type?

What petejh said, even I'm not online 24/7.

Stunning effort, looks amazing!

[chummer]

Ditto Pete's and slacklines comments. Some of us were even out climbing!

Otherwise fucking awesome, what an incredible looking route and as for the crag, wowzers! If this is only his first major new route (as in worked proper hard at for a significant amount of time) so surely this is just the start, he can climb harder...  

[r-man]

Here's a bit of climbing geekery. A list (of course) of a few key sport climbers of the past decades - looking at the climber's age at each of their hardest two FA's.

Wolfgang Gullich, born 1960
-8c, Wall Street (Mk2), 1987, 27
-9a, Action Directe, 1991, 31

Ben Moon, born 1966
-8c, Maginot Line & Agincourt, 8c, 1989, 23
-8c+, Hubble, 1990, 24

Alexander Huber, born 1968
- 9a, Weisse Rose, 1995, 27
- 9a+ Open Air, 1996, 28

Fred Rouhling, born 1970
-Hugh, 9a, 1993, 23
-Akira, 9b, 1995, 25

Bernabe Fernandez, born 1974
-Orujo, 9a+, 1998, 24
-Chilam Balam, 9b?, 2003, 29

Chris Sharma, born 1981
-Realisation, 9a+, 2001, 20
-Jumbo Love, 9b, 2007, 26
-...

Adam Ondra, born 1993
-The Change, 9b+, 2012, 19
-...


Seems most climbers peak in mid to late twenties. Ondra has a long way to go...

[chummer]

Nice r-man