[slackline]

He might have bailed out of the competition scene,

but then another 5.14c onsight to soothe everyones nerves...


http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/adam-ondra-another-514c-onsight 

See a few posts up. 

[Baldy]

How embarrassing 

[dontfollowme]

Through to the final in Arco in the bouldering.

[douglas]

Ondra at Arco 2011: "This year I will focus on bouldering. I will travel to Rocklands and boulder areas in Europe."

Can't wait!

[SA Chris]

South Lakes is in Europe......

[SA Chris]

http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=38429

Ondra does more hard things...

[gremlin]

Has Ondra put a bit of muscle on? He looks a bit "bulkier", almost normal! 

[ducko]

still beaten by first round first minute sharma is the king! 

[Stubbs]

Sharma did spend a little bit of time on it before he sent though...

[SA Chris]

sharma is the king! 

Swedish Computer based Scoring system says no.

[Nibile]

8c+ second go? he must have spent the night before at the local strippers' club eh?

[Doylo]

i doubt that!!

[ducko]

sharma is the king! 

Swedish Computer based Scoring system says no.

well he puts up some of the best/craziest lines out of anyone so in my book he holds high regard

[SA Chris]

Can't disagree on that, but on current form Ondra is climbing harder stuff in better style than Sharma ever did.

[andy_e]

I wouldn't say in better style, his hair is terrible.

[ziggytang]

 

[Baldy]

Ondra - Monkey Wedding V15 3rd ascent.

http://climbingnarc.com/2011/08/adam-ondra-repeats-monkey-wedding-v15-rocklands-south-africa/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+ClimbingNarc+%28ClimbingNarc.com%29&utm_content=FaceBook&ref=nf

[slackline]

Ondra - Monkey Wedding V15 3rd ascent.

http://climbingnarc.com/2011/08/adam-ondra-repeats-monkey-wedding-v15-rocklands-south-africa/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+ClimbingNarc+%28ClimbingNarc.com%29&utm_content=FaceBook&ref=nf

(You need to remove all the gumpf after the last '/' in the URL that has all of the details of where you came from before viewing the page, which appears to have been the ClimbingNarc Farcebook feed).

Also of note in the report...

After winning overall Gold at the 2011 World Championships in Arco Adam Ondra commented that he was going to spend the rest of the year focusing on bouldering

I expect there'll be plenty of hard repeats and projects falling between now and December then! 

[Baldy]

aye, should be good watching.

Although I wonder how much there is for him to do down there...bouldering does seem a bit  pointless *gasp* for him when it takes him about 10 minutes to do the hardest problems in the world - at least the hardest routes are taking a week or so.

However, if he starts putting up his own stuff down there, and sending their current projects, it really could be quite interesting.
Get him on the invisible man project!

[Nemo]

“still beaten by first round first minute” - Ducko

You must have high expectations for him if you think he’s been “beaten” after a couple of quick plays at the end of a week trip in August.  Did you expect him to onsight it?  I'm quite sure he'll be back on this at some point.

“when it takes him about 10 minutes to do the hardest problems in the world” - Baldy

Monkey Wedding took him 4 days – longer than Chilam Balam…  Then again it took Paul Robinson 10 days so it’s a flippin great effort.  Livin Large or some of the “big move” problems like Sky may be more challenging – or maybe not?  As you say – will be interesting to see how he gets on.  If everything does go easily, then I’m sure there’s still lots of great projects to get on.

“bouldering does seem a bit pointless *gasp* for him” - Baldy

Far from it.  As he’s said himself, arm strength and big campussy moves on sloping holds are his biggest weakness.  Think he’s probably avoided doing stuff like this until recently because it can cause problems and injuries for teenagers still growing.  But now he clearly knows it’s a relatively weak point.  He’s been training to improve it.  And some time spent focussing on bouldering could lead to massive rapid gains - whereas gains in things you are already great at are much harder to come by.  If he can combine Sharma or Woods’ arm and dynamic strength with his own ridiculous finger strength, technique, endurance and all round climbing ability – then I think 9c routes will be just around the corner.  And ridiculous as it sounds, if he stays psyched, I wouldn’t be at all surprised to see 10a within the decade. 

[casa]

 
wowzer. watch this space

[casa]

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/athletes/bd-athlete-adam-ondra-reports-from-the-boulders-of-rocklands-south-africa?utm_source=hotwire-09022011-B&utm_medium=email&utm_content=main-promo&utm_campaign=ondra+in+rocklands

oops..the link helps

[slackline]

Back Diamond : Adam Ondra Reports from the boulders of Rocklands South Africa

oops..the link helps

It would wouldn't it (see here for the link syntax)

[Ethan]

FA of a 9a+ and a Font8C for the lad.

[chris_j_s]

...and both on the same day. Amazing!