[Wood FT]

That area of margalef can be a real swamp, its sat within the valley, burried amongst the trees, it can feel like a sauna sometimes over there compared to say espadelles which is high up and overlooks everything, so yeah, can probably cut him a bit of slack on this one.  He should have given up and come to try Bon Combat, reckon he'd piss it. 

I live in BCN, weather wise its been warm / wet / warm / wet, was good in october then again in late december but Ondra left already.

When he arrived here there were covid restrictions - but legally he was ok  (as per my understanding), though perhaps a 10 man film crew, non of which were wearing masks - which is the law here - wasn't necessary nor a great look..

That said, whilst he is taking some heat for that - after he left the rules then became very strict,  people here can't travel between comarcas, so even if you live an hour away from Margalef - you can't go there now, some pros don't give a shit and have travelled here regardless including Megos who is seemingly trying to keep it hush hush, which hasn't gone unnoticed.

Thanks for adding local context.

[jwi]

https://www.grimper.com/news-pourquoi-adam-ondra-est-reellement-difficulte-perfecto-mundo-9b

My better half is not the only one thinking that Ondra was there hors saison.

[abarro81]

you can't go there now, some pros don't give a shit and have travelled here regardless including Megos who is seemingly trying to keep it hush hush, which hasn't gone unnoticed.

Was funny to see Bosi tag Megos in his insta pic and then fairly swiftly edit it to remove all mention (presumably at megos' request). All a llittle #carrotsforirony given the moralising nature of Megos' "new year" insta post.

[tomtom]

you can't go there now, some pros don't give a shit and have travelled here regardless including Megos who is seemingly trying to keep it hush hush, which hasn't gone unnoticed.

Was funny to see Bosi tag Megos in his insta pic and then fairly swiftly edit it to remove all mention (presumably at megos' request). All a llittle #carrotsforirony given the moralising nature of Megos' "new year" insta post.

What happens if he does something important (XYZ project etc..) while he's not supposed to be there... Harder to publicize  your law breaking success (especially for a VW sponsored Olympian to be...)...

[Kingy]

"There are many who would pay dearly to get “screwed” like this in a 9b +…"

Google translate made me laugh with this quote at the end of the article 

[HaeMeS]

Travelling to Spain is not forbidden. Restrictions depend on the country you travel from (and the date you travelled). In Spain rules that apply for the Spanish (like travel restrictions between comarca's and regions) are applied in a very lenient way to foreigners. Which is not fair, but that's apperently the way it goes.

Which leaves aside the moral issue of travelling. A lot of people love to cast the first stone these days when Covid is involved. 

[JohnM]

you can't go there now, some pros don't give a shit and have travelled here regardless including Megos who is seemingly trying to keep it hush hush, which hasn't gone unnoticed.

Was funny to see Bosi tag Megos in his insta pic and then fairly swiftly edit it to remove all mention (presumably at megos' request). All a llittle #carrotsforirony given the moralising nature of Megos' "new year" insta post.

Climbers dishing out moral advice has become a thing. Pro climbers preaching about climate change or capitalism. I don't give a shit what you think, you get paid to fly around the world to climb up bits of rock. Just get on with making some nice videos for me to watch while I am meant to working and trying to increase my own capital in between my own attempts to climb up much easier bits of rock. I don't care what you think about climate change.   

[AndyR]

you can't go there now, some pros don't give a shit and have travelled here regardless including Megos who is seemingly trying to keep it hush hush, which hasn't gone unnoticed.

Was funny to see Bosi tag Megos in his insta pic and then fairly swiftly edit it to remove all mention (presumably at megos' request). All a llittle #carrotsforirony given the moralising nature of Megos' "new year" insta post.

Climbers dishing out moral advice has become a thing. Pro climbers preaching about climate change or capitalism. I don't give a shit what you think, you get paid to fly around the world to climb up bits of rock. Just get on with making some nice videos for me to watch while I am meant to working and trying to increase my own capital in between my own attempts to climb up much easier bits of rock. I don't care what you think about climate change.

I wholeheartedly agree - even on the very rare occasions that the opinion is well-considered, thoughtful and cogent, I'm still not interested...

[36chambers]

you can't go there now, some pros don't give a shit and have travelled here regardless including Megos who is seemingly trying to keep it hush hush, which hasn't gone unnoticed.

Was funny to see Bosi tag Megos in his insta pic and then fairly swiftly edit it to remove all mention (presumably at megos' request). All a llittle #carrotsforirony given the moralising nature of Megos' "new year" insta post.

I imagine Bosi's insta posts will slow down now he's been getting a bit of grief about his trip

[jwi]

you can't go there now, some pros don't give a shit and have travelled here regardless including Megos who is seemingly trying to keep it hush hush, which hasn't gone unnoticed.

Was funny to see Bosi tag Megos in his insta pic and then fairly swiftly edit it to remove all mention (presumably at megos' request). All a llittle #carrotsforirony given the moralising nature of Megos' "new year" insta post.

Climbers dishing out moral advice has become a thing. Pro climbers preaching about climate change or capitalism. I don't give a shit what you think, you get paid to fly around the world to climb up bits of rock. Just get on with making some nice videos for me to watch while I am meant to working and trying to increase my own capital in between my own attempts to climb up much easier bits of rock. I don't care what you think about climate change.

I wholeheartedly agree - even on the very rare occasions that the opinion is well-considered, thoughtful and cogent, I'm still not interested...

It can be worse, they can also share life lessons...

But seriously, do not follow celebrities on social media. Problem solved.

[jwi]

1 hour chat between Caldwell and Ondra

[James Malloch]

I like the videos on Adam’s Instagram story at the moment. Speed climbing an indoor 8a.

Something like 46s with clipping and 36s on top rope (though looks like he unclipped two draws on the way up).

So about 6x slower than the speed route at the olympics, but also 8a vs. 6b!

[Will Hunt]

I like the videos on Adam’s Instagram story at the moment. Speed climbing an indoor 8a.

Something like 46s with clipping and 36s on top rope (though looks like he unclipped two draws on the way up).

So about 6x slower than the speed route at the olympics, but also 8a vs. 6b 5+!

FTFY 

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Here's a thought on that theme.

One way of incorporating speed into the Olympic discipline, could be a fastest ascent of the lead route - after the on-sight attempt. Maybe with a practice session thrown in.

That would allow red point to be included in a more workable format, and provide an outcome more dependent on what we normally think of in terms of climbing skill.

Speed itself isn't irrelevant either - watching Ondra himself is a good indication of that, and it's relevance perhaps to "economy".

[teestub]

Here's a thought on that theme.

One way of incorporating speed into the Olympic discipline, could be a fastest ascent of the lead route - after the on-sight attempt. Maybe with a practice session thrown in.

They are going to incorporate by giving it its own medal in Paris, with a combined for lead and boulder which I’m sure suits most people, and respects the history of the speed comps and specialist competitors.

I guess speed is already important in the lead, as it’s the first tie breaker

[Bradders]

After what's seemed like a bit of a quiet period post Olympics, balance has been restored:

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CWG3br6jcrn/?utm_medium=copy_link

[MischaHY]

Oooooooohhhh not only is it the big O on the rock, it's low quality hand-filmed phone footage 

[jwi]

Very good interview with Ondra:


Some interesting nuggets: anyone who take it seriously can climb the speed wall sub 7 seconds (not harder than climbing 8a route apparently), if it was not for the olympics Ondra would have stopped doing bouldering comps two years ago as the modern bouldering style is dangerous for the body, Yoshiyuki Ogata is the strongest climber physically, and Ondra is as impressed as everyone else by this guy: https://www.instagram.com/monscogram/

[Ged]

That was great. Magnus midtbo was a really good interviewer, asked some good stuff.

Throw in the first ascent of a 9a and a few laps of 8B on the minute for good measure...

[Danny]

One of the best insights into Ondra's thinking and attitude I've seen. He comes across really well. Say what you will about MM's general vids, this one was great.

[Fiend]

Can someone do a transcript?? I'd rather spend another lockdown reading LozT analysing a Dave Mac video on holding eggs than even accidentally click on a Magnus Clickbaitbo video ever again....

[duncan]

Can someone do a transcript?? I'd rather spend another lockdown reading LozT analysing a Dave Mac video on holding eggs than even accidentally click on a Magnus Clickbaitbo video ever again....

I share your suspicions. I gave it a try because it had had the jwi imprimatur but watched it to the end, enjoyed it, and think you might too. It's a genial chat and MM gets Adam to open up a bit between climbing on some splendidly crappy local limestone.

He also definitively answers the question of how long it's acceptable to spend on a route*. 

*two hours

[andy popp]

between climbing on some splendidly crappy local limestone.

It's hard to resist Ondra's sheer enthusiasm for climbing.

[IanP]

Can someone do a transcript?? I'd rather spend another lockdown reading LozT analysing a Dave Mac video on holding eggs than even accidentally click on a Magnus Clickbaitbo video ever again....

I share your suspicions. I gave it a try because it had had the jwi imprimatur but watched it to the end, enjoyed it, and think you might too. It's a genial chat and MM gets Adam to open up a bit between climbing on some splendidly crappy local limestone.

Yep its a good and interesting interview, both Ondra and Mitbo come across well and appear to be enjoying themselves.   Never really got the hate for Mitbo, yes he does some 'wacky' stuff on his videos but that's how he earns a living.  On the more climbing related ones which I've watched the come across well, has a decent screen presence, is a good interviewer and can still cut it pretty well climbing wise (definitely doesn't embarrass himself climbing in Ondra's gym)

[Duncan campbell]

Thought that was brill, stuck it on whilst I was eating my tea having got back from the wall, thinking I'd just watch 20 mins or so but easily just watched it all. I have watched a few of Magnus' videos and this isn't like his normal ones at all.

mainly just echoing what has been said above. Would recommend watching, Fiend.