[Jaspersharpe]

It's not interesting, it's clearly bollocks.

[Muenchener]

The only thing I find remotely interesting about lead competitions is that it's still possible for people who are good at actual rock climbing to do well in them.  If/when that changes then what little residual interest I have in them will be gone.

Competition bouldering otoh I find pretty cool as a spectator sport in its own right.

[Nibile]

 

He's got guns these days, whats Paxti been doing to him

I bet it's not Patxi, it's the 
After the Lead World Champ victory he seemed to be quite chuffed with his girlfriend.

[gme]

Nibile- do you know what training methods he uses for the

My approach has always been along the short, maximal effort kind of method but my wife feels that i need to work on my ancap.

Thoughts?

[Nibile]

 
He's both Bouldering and Lead world champion, so I guess he must be good at both.

[Durbs]

I wonder if he still goes in for such loud power screams during these sessions

[tommytwotone]

Nibile- do you know what training methods he uses for the

My approach has always been along the short, maximal effort kind of method but my wife feels that i need to work on my ancap.

Thoughts?

Don't ask Nibs, he'll have you trying to do it while one-arming the 45s on the Beastmaker.

[tomtom]

To be a true hero he needs to master the roll over and be disinterested move afterwards...

[Wood FT]

I wonder if he still goes in for such loud power screams during these sessions

well, that's that image stuck in my head for the rest of the day. fuck.

[SA Chris]

fuck.

That's about it.

[Doylo]

Ondra doesn't fuck. Fools

[masonwoods101]

He makes love?

[Yoof]

It's interesting that he says he's naturally strong, and retains his strength well, when he claimed in Progression that he's "basically weak".

Wasn't he 16 in Progression?. More age and puberty and shit -> muscle and power/strength
(one of my more eloquent sentences)

[Clart]

New vid 'Change' released tomorrow (19th of Oct) apparently (http://www.change-movie.com/news) 




Ondra on Realisation, "I had to try quite hard".

[cheque]

New vid 'Change' released tomorrow (19th of Oct) apparently

I'd better warn the neighbours.

[Fiend]

I better warn my pants!

[Clart]

I better warn my pants!

That was very...

[Clart]

Ondra film 'definitely' going to be released tomorrow. Similar delay to last time. I just hope it's not just comprised of all the short vids that were released over the last 24 months.

[Nibile]

On FB there's a video with Ondra onsighting two 8c+, one of which was 9a.
Clearly it wasn't newsworthy enough as to make it into the main movie...

[standard]

[Clart]

At long last......

http://www.change-movie.com/

[HaeMeS]

Worth the money in my opinion. Watch with headphones or warn the neighbours.

Why buy?: 2 hours of Ondra in Norway. 
Why not to buy?: contains driving to the crag, 50% climbing, 50% Norway.

[Moo]

Terrible terrible terrible film.

[remus]

Quite enjoyed it myself. Stands up pretty well as something you might watch with the family compared to the usual climbing flicks (where you have to spend at least 5 years sitting in grotty caves full of sheep shit before you can start to appreciate them.)

[bendavison]

Its one of the few films which really show redpoint frustration, which was brilliant. However, there was a surprising about of shit footage and bad editing given how long its been in production. I'm surprised he could find so much room for shots of their feet as they were dragging round a canoe, but couldn't fit in 10 more mins of the first ascents (actual or repeated for the camera) of Dharma and Art of Flight, and more than 30 seconds of onsight footage.

I was a bit disappointed if I'm honest.