[petejh]

Or E10 7b actually.

That would have kept a lid on E9s with french 7c climbing.

[Jaspersharpe]

Don't go there Pete! *can of worms smiley*

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

[a dense loner]

can we keep this on track as an ondrawad thread pls?

[tomtom]

Nobody ever questioned the 8B+ grade. Or E10 7b actually.

In V grades please

Anyway to get back to the thread  - great effort... To have the psyche to get up at 5am to scratch up some gizzy damp peak lime shows a high level of commitment and interest. Bravo.

[Doylo]

No surprise as he's  got a sense of history. Hope he gets chance to finish it off sometime.

[Jaspersharpe]

can we keep this on track as an ondrawad thread pls?

It is as far as I'm concerned. Find it rather ukc/surprising/pathetic that it's been hijacked in this way.

Mind you, this is someone who's climbed most of the hardest routes in the world, on film rather than an "enigma".

Go figure.

[Muenchener]

No surprise as he's  got a sense of history.

Speaking of history: the three grit E7s all onsight? Most grit E7s ever onsighted in a day(*) by anybody?

(*) in an afternoon, after very little sleep, nearly repointing Hubble mutliple times in poor conditions in the morning, then a day's work

[horn]

I'm confused by the timeline now, did he do all the E7 on-sights after work on the same day he didn't do Hubble?  That would be more impressive than any of it, I don't even go to the wall after two hours sleep and a day at work.

Yes and yes

Technically, he onsighted three E7s on his lunch break!

[Doylo]

Second 9a onsight for Ondra. Il Domani in Baltzola ?? First person to onsight 9a and Masters Edge in the same week 

[bendavison]

 

Where'd you see that?

I'm just glad he got to the airport OK.

[EdGowSmith]

Patxi Usobiaga's Facebook page:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1472879386279045&set=a.1417026105197707.1073741831.100006709924542&type=1&theater

[Doylo]

Patxis Instagram

[Duma]

[SA Chris]

There's an article on UKC too.

[Lopez]

There's a good interview with Adam over on Desnivel today.

Apparently he misread the crux section sequence and did it harder than it was meant to, and the knee-bar rest that comes after that and before the other 'hard move' was wet and couldn't use it to rest properly on it. He thinks the way he did it still wouldn't warrant 9a+ though, but... 

Ah, and he's now going to start training properly for the first time apparently. His coach? Patxi Usobiaga. He'll be competing in both the boulder and lead WC this year. Dear lord   

Interview here for those who can withstand google translate or can understand spanish http://desnivel.com/escalada-roca/adam-ondra-encadena-il-domani-su-segundo-9a-a-vista-en-baltzola

Correction: He's only competing in 1 boulder WC. I was listening to the audio interview and missed that... 

[jwi]

9b+ climber on mid sevens:

[Muenchener]

As an aside: what did alpine wad Pietro dal Prà do on grit? Just belay Adam?

[Fiend]

Onsighting is gooooood 

[coziosco]

As an aside: what did alpine wad Pietro dal Prà do on grit? Just belay Adam?

Bouldering for Pietro at the plantation on Sunday with Jim Pope. No routes, not enough time on the Saturday with belaying, rock shoe fitting clinics, driving around. He's in the background of this...

[Jaspersharpe]

Onsighting is gooooood 

Oh for fuck's sake Fiend. Stop banging that drum.

It's about as entertaining as the annoying hippy at a rave with a bongo who everyone humours for a bit and then leaves on his own for the remaining ten hours while they go and have fun.

Ondra onsighting E7 is like me onsighting a VS slab, irrelevant and really easy.

We all get that you think any sort of practicing a route prior to climbing it is anathema but the best climber in the world pissing a few easy grit routes doesn't prove your point.

It's boring. I'm bored with it. Go make more badly dressed, awfully soundtracked bouldering films instead. Those are good as at least  they make my son laugh.

[a dense loner]

I'll have a pint of what Jasper's had pls barkeep

[tomtom]

A video of J climbing a VS slab whilst playing bongo's to a thrash metal sound track could work though...

[Fiend]

Jasper you can be really quite unintelligent sometimes. No offense or anything.

I wasn't banging any drum nor making the point you mistakenly think.

The point I was making was that it is nice to see a leading foreign climber, unused to trad climbing, choosing to onsight some "safer" grit routes, rather than automatically headpointing much harder bolder routes, as is often the way for leading foreign climbers unused to trad climbing.

Ondra onsighting E7 is just as irrelevant and really easy as Ondra headpointing E10. I'm just celebrating that he chose to do the former because it seems the less common choice to me.

It really is as simple as that.

[Jaspersharpe]

Yeah I must have imagined all those other posts of yours. 

[Fiend]

No you didn't, but yes next time I will make it clearer when I'm giving an innocuous appreciation of a climber's ascents (i.e. this case - although I did think the simplicity and positivity of my post was enough) compared to when I'm vigorously standing up for principles (other cases).