[lukeyboy]

Some slightly disappointing news (I think so anyway) - sounds as though Ondra will be focussing on comps next year rather than rock. Maybe he's sick of FA's and is waiting for someone else to put up a route hard enough for him to bother trying...

Still, suffice to say he'll probably get a bit done in those "couple of short trips"!

[krymson]

I get the impression the top boys are not in agreement about the existence of 8c+. Nalle tried Gioio too and he reckons we haven't hit 8c+ yet. It could be that they're all bitter about getting spanked by a sport climber though 

So Nalle didn't send Gioia  and says that? that doesn't make any sense.
Send it and then make your thoughts known, otherwise shut up.

[r-man]

Ondra will be focussing on comps next year rather than rock.

This has been on the cards for a while. Wouldn't be surprised if he comes out of it even stronger than before, which can't be a bad thing for the future of sport climbing.

It would be interesting (though probably unlikely) to see some of the current comp beasts take a year off and focus on outdoor FA's. Wonder what Rustam or Dmitri could achieve it they set their minds to it...

[gme]

Three 9as in a day. Proper ones as well.
All a bit unbelievable really.
And hardly anyone bats an eyelid now.

[jwi]

 

[slackline]

Adam Ondra had an amazing day yesterday in Frankenjura where he quickly did three 9a's;
The Elder Statesman, "Close to flashing, fired it off 20mins later. Thanks for beta Alex! 1st 9a of the day."
The House of Shock, "Tough bouldering on tiny holds... 2nd 9a of the day, the hardest of the three.
Sever the Wicked Hand, "Tried two days before in severe humidity, now did it 1st go while clipping the draws in. 3rd 9a of the day, even though this one must be pretty soft."

[cheque]

9a putting the clips in. 

[slackline]

Doing just one 8a as a warm-up doesn't warm my fingers enough. 

[Doylo]

I guess it's possible when your top grades 9b+. Still ridiculous though

[Nibile]

First comp, first victory.

[remus]

vid here:

[GraemeA]

The trip over the light was classic.

He was one happy bunny.

[Luke Owens]

Are the comps just to top up his bank account or a sponser's thing? (or both)

[GraemeA]

Are the comps just to top up his bank account or a sponser's thing? (or both)

No he was genuinely pleased to be competing (and winning).

he is at university now so doesn't have time for trips to eg Flatanger so he is doing the comps including the full circuit next year

[Luke Owens]

No he was genuinely pleased to be competing (and winning).

he is at university now so doesn't have time for trips to eg Flatanger so he is doing the comps including the full circuit next year

Fair play, sounds like it would be ideal with him being in University.

Any idea what he's studying? I find it strange to think he'd carry on studying when he could clearly live off climbing.

[Grubes]

I guess with climbing (and most sports) you are one very bad day away from retirement. So worth while getting a back up plan.

[John Gillott]

He might enjoy his studies / find them worthwhile as well (see also Landman).

[r-man]

Interview

http://adventure.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/adventurers-of-the-year/2014/adam-ondra/

[Doylo]

The yanks still call Biographie the worlds first 9a+ ignoring Akira (unconfirmed) and Open Air (confirmed).

[north_country_boy]

The yanks still call Biographie the worlds first 9a+ ignoring Akira (unconfirmed) and Open Air (confirmed).

The yanks  believe a lot of things which are factual incorrect and/or false.

[standard]

to be fair, huber graded id 9a. Ondra upgraded it in 2008, and i doubt many 'yanks' are aware of this.

[Doylo]

to be fair, huber graded id 9a. Ondra upgraded it in 2008, and i doubt many 'yanks' are aware of this.

No excuse for not doing the research 

[Sasquatch]

Nah, it's classic Yank ego.  Sharma was the first to do 9a+, so therefore the others don't exist. 

[Jaspersharpe]

I was going to say something similar but you're better qualified in that respect.... :-)

[dave]

Didn't someone recently go and do Akira or was that just a beautiful dream?